
Glass Dfil^ 
Book .Ul^ . 



JOURNEY 



INTO 

SOUTH WALES, 

THROUGH THE COUNTIES OF 

OXFORD, WARWICK, WORCESTER, HEREFORD, 

SALOP, STAFFORD, BUCKINGHAM, 

AND HERTFORD; 

IN THE YEAR I799« 



By GEORGE LIPSCOMB, Efq. 



*' All travel has its advantages. If the paflenger vifits better 
M countries, he may learn to improve his own; and if fortune carries 
" him to worfe— he may learn to enjoy it." 

" Far from me and my friends be fuch frigid philofophy as may 
" conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any ground which has 
* been dignified by wifdom, bravery, and virtue." 

JOHNSON. 



LONDON: 

PRINTED B7 A. STRAHAN PRINTERS STREET, 

FOR T. N. LONGMAN & O. REE3, PATERNOSTER-ROW, 



802. 



TO 
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 

HORATIO, 

VISCOUNT AND BARON NELSON 

OF THE NILE, 

AND OF BURNHAM THORPE 

IN THE COUNTY OF NORFOLK; 

DUKE OF BRONTE, IN SICIIT. 

KNIGHT OF THE MOST HONOURABLE 

ORDER OF THE BATH; 

VICE ADMIRAL OF THE BLUE SQUADRON OF 

His majesty's fleet; 

GRAND CROSS OF THE SICILIAN ORDER OF 
ST. FERDINAND AND OF MERIT ; 

KNIGHT OF THE IMPERIAL TURKISH ORDER 

OF THE CRESCENT; 

KNIGHT, GRAND COMMANDER OF 

THE EQUESTRIAN, SECULAR, AND CAPITULAR 

ORDER OF ST. JOACHIM OF WIRTEMBERG. 



MY LORD, 

X he refpedl which every 

true Englishman mud entertain for 

the moft confpicuous ornament of 

his 



n 



DEDICATION, VI 

his country, and for one, to whofe 
valour and fuccefs all Europe is in- 
debted for the bleiiings of Peace, 
firft prompted me to defire an 
opportunity of expreffing publicly 
thefe fentiments of my regard and 
veneration. 

Your Lordfhip has politely con- 
defcended to permit me to infcribe 
this little book with your illuftrious 
and memorable name: I embrace, 
therefore* fo proper an occaiion to 
remark that the liberty of dedicating 
literary performances to illuftrious 
perfonages is highly beneficial, be- 
caufe it enables us at once to hold 
up to the view of pofterity fit ex- 
amples for their guide and imitation; 
and to excite in living merit that 

vir- 



DEDICATION. V 

virtuous emulation which may en- 
title it to fimilar memorials of pub- 
lic efteem and gratitude. 

When I contemplate your Lord- 
fhip's character, I am at a lofs for 
words to convey the various fenfa- 
tions whigh arife in my mind at 
Courage the moft intrepid, Calmnefs 
the moft prudent, Wifdom the moft 
consummate, and Humanity the rnoft 
benignant. 

Whether I view you, my Lord, 
leading the hardy fons of Britain to 
conqueft and to glory, — animating 
them, by the iirmnefs of your 
conduct,* — defying danger, without 
rafhnefs, — and ferene, amidft the din 
of battle : or fee you triumphantly re- 
turning at the head of a vi&orious 
a band, 



Vl DEDICATION. 

band, — not vain, with fucceffes even 
the moft brilliant ; not proud, of 
fchemes the beft concerted, and en- 
tirely your own, but, with an afped 
glowing with benignity, and exhi- 
biting at once, the bravery of Alex- 
ander, and the humility of Scipio! 
Whether I obferve you furrounded 
by admiring countrymen, who greet 
with honeft and unaffe&ed joy the 
return of their great deliverer; — 
fee you receiving at the hands of 
Kings the higheft honours and dif- 
tin&ions which grateful monarchs 
can beftow ; — or view the mild be- 
nevolence, the foft humanity with 
which the man before whofe pre- 
fence even heroes have trembled, 
prote&s the weak and affifls the dif- 

treffed* 



DEDICATION. Vu 

treffed, I am loft in aftonifhment, 
delight and ^xtacy ; and grieve that 
the powers of language are fo in- 
adequate to fuch a theme. 

A few of thofe excellent qualities, 
in the fame degree in which your 
Lordfhip poffefies them, for the 
happinefs of civilized fociety, the 
peculiar honour of your country, 
and your own glory ; — even one of 
them would be fufficient to immor- 
talize any name j-^-their union forms 
a chaplet around your brow which 
dazzles all men by its fublime re- 
fulgence, and fets competition at 
defiance ! 

It challenges the hiftory of the 

world to produce its equal, through 

the ages which are paft ; and fliines 

a 2 like 



V1U DEDICATION. 

like a brilliant conftellation to illu- 
mine the generations to come. 

When in the following pages I 
have attempted to recall to the reader 
the characters of illuftrious heroes 
long numbered with the mighty 
dead, he will form a jufter eftima- 
tion of their bravery and their worth, 
by the criterion of your Lordfhip's 
great example. 

When the favage atchievements 
of ancient warriors are depicted, 
how happily will he oppofe to their 
barbarous ferocity the calm, intre- 
pid, manly, generous conduct of the 
Hero of the Nile, and of the eigh- 
teenth century. 

When he reads- the names of 
Hampden and of Sidney, he will 



recog- 



DEDICATION. 1X 



recognize in your Lordfhip the 
friend of freedom, the defender of 
rational liberty, and the enemy of 

oppreffion. 

When he traces the author's ago- 
nizing feelings in the caufe of fuf- 
feiing humanity, he will gratefully 
revere that patriot whofe vvifdom and 
energy have fo much contributed 
to reftore to us the invaluable bleff- 
ings of tranquillity and peace: 

And when he admires the com- 
mercial importance, the agricultural 
improvements, the juridical advan- 
tages, the domeftic fecurity of our 
native land, he will rightly appre- 
ciate the benefits which have been 
derived to it from the exertions of 
a gallant commander, whofe life has 
a 3 been 



X . DEDICATION. 

been one conftant fcene of laborious 
activity in the defence, the fervice, 
and the protection of his country. 

Impreffed with thefefentiments, I 
prefume to offer to your Lordfhip's 
candour the following pages ; and 
beg leave to affure you that I enjoy 
great pleafure and great pride in 
thus prefenting to you the homage 
of my profoundeft refped, and of 
thus celebrating your illuftrious 
name with the beft praifes of my pen, 

I have the Honour to be, 

MY LORD, 

YOUR LORDSHIP'S 
Mofl: obedient and obliged fervant^ 

GEORGE LIPSCOMEL 

Birmingham, 
$ej)t. 5/1892. 



PREFACE. 



When I firft committed to paper the ob- 
fervations which have been fince prefented 
to the public, under the title of " A Jour- 
ney into Cornwall, &c/' it is right for 
me to acknowledge, that I neither enter- 
tained an intention of publifhing them, nor 
encouraged the vanity of fuppofing that 
my remarks would at all imprefs the private 
circle, for which they were defigned, with 
any more favourable idea of me, than that 
I was defirous of proving to my friends, 
that the recollection of their kindnefs and 
partiality, could neither be effaced by time, 
nor worn out by length of abfence. The 
letters which contained thofe remarks, im- 
perceptibly acquired a certain degree of 
bulk, and, having been thewn to different 
perfons, in various fituations of life, I was 
a 4 foiicited 



XU PREFACE. 

fclicited by many of them to publifh fuch 
extracts from thofe letters, as, when con- 
nected, might at once exhibit a view of the 
face of the country over which I had tra- 
velled, and convey fome idea of the gene- 
ral tendency of the correfpondence in which 
I had been engaged. 

Although I can not boaft of having en* 
joyed many opportunities, or much leifure, 
for antiquarian refearches, nor of having 
minutely illuftrated the hiftory of any of 
the places mentioned in that book, I flat- 
ter myfelf, that the ftridl veracity every 
where obferved in the defcriptions, and the 
attention with which I have endeavoured 
to difcriminate, between the truth of hif- 
tory, and the legendary impofitions of ro-» 
mance, have rendered my publication at 
leaft as refpeftable in the rank to which it 
belongs, as thofe which are placed on the 
fame ihelf of the library ; for while its Au~ 
thor afpires not to the dignity of an Hifto- 
riatiy he has the fatisfadion of being con- 

fcious 



PREFACE. Xlii 



fcious that he has, here and there, fug- 
gefted a hint, not unworthy of being at- 
tended to, by thofe who w r alk in that dif- 
tinguiihed path ; and that there is nothing 
contained in his performance, which was 
intended to feed credulity, or to counte- 
nance error. 

The hurry in which excurfions of this 
nature are frequently undertaken, and the 
rapidity w r ith which they are performed, 
may often deny the means of acquiring 
very particular or minute information ; but 
this affords no excufe for erroneous ftate- 
ments, much lefs for wilful deviations from 
truth. 

To me, who have no pretenfions to an- 
tiquarian importance, it has always ap- 
peared a defirable object, that the topogra- 
phical defcriptions of our native country 
mould be rendered z$ complete as poffible ; 
and every day which now prefents us with 
important improvements, in all the arts of 
life, and with difcoveries in fcience, which 

enoblc 



XIV PREFACE. 

cnoble the name of Britain, and render this 
country of more and more importance in 
the eyes of furrounding nationSj convinces 
me of the advantages derivable from fuch a 
fcheme. 

The indefatigable labours of many gen- 
tlemen of diftinguifhed learning and abili- 
ties, have been directed to our provincial 
hiftories, which will become of ftill greater 
importance to pofterity, in proportion to 
the increafe of opplence, the extenfion of 
commerce, and the improvement of fcience. 
It is not, however, included in the nature 
of the plan ufualiy adopted by the hifto- 
rlan, to particularize thofe more fuperfi- 
cial features of the country, which are the 
moft liable to change, and the firft which 
ftrike a cafual obferver. Befides, the fize 
and price of county hiftories neceflarily ex.- 
ck des. from among their readers men of 
bufmefs, and perfons of very moderate in?- 
comes ; — it may alfo be obferved, and I 
hope without offence to the learning of the 



PREFACE. XV 

age, that there is at leaft one clafs of read- 
ers, to whom the perufal of thefe volumi- 
nous compilations would be infuperably 
irkfome and difagreeable, although it is of 
the higheft importance to the welfare and 
improvement of the riling generation, and 
of all pofterity, that the laudable regard 
which that clafs has manifefted of late 
years, for the cultivation of literature, 
fhould be cherifhed with the moft anxi- 
ous folicitude. It will be immediately 
perceived, that I allude to the ladies of 
Great Britain^ to whom not even a pedant 
could think of prefcribing the arduous tafk 
pf perufing folios; and from whom not 
even an antiquarian could think of feclud- 
ing that moft important among Englifh ftu- 
dies — the knowledge of the local hiftory, 
and general features of a country, whofe 
brighteft ornaments they are. 

To fuch, therefore, who either want 
Jeifure or inclination to ftudy, the elaborate 
performance of a Dugdale^ a Hutchins, a, 

Colliiifetii 



xvi Preface. 

Cclllnfon^ or a Shaw ; — who have not that 
hiiloric ardour which can give a relifh to 
the dry formality of Hearn^ Carew, or Plot 
— the tourift, who, without pretending to 
minutiae, is correct in his relations, and 
faithful in the defcriptions of the fcenes 
prefented, may offer his more humble per- 
formances with fome fort of claim to an 
acknowledgment that his labours are not 
entirely ufelefs, nor unimportant. 

So far as thofe labours may tend to the 
inftruction of fuch as are excluded the 
higher walks of literature— to the informa- 
tion of thofe who are interefted in the ge- 
neral appearance of the country, or to the 
advantage or amufement of thofe, who 
have a tafte for rural fcenes, or a predi- 
lection for picturefque beauty, — -the ap- 
pearance of nature in the lovelinefs of un- 
reftramed vegetation, and untortured ele- 
gance ; and of art, in the magnificence of 
its ancient grandeur, or the corre&nefs of 
its modern improvements: — to thofe who, 

though 



PREFACE. XV11 

though they may not feel any extraordi- 
nary emotions at the fight of a rufty fhield, 
or a corroded ftatue, can rejoice in the 
triumphs of civilization over barbarity, and 
the eftablifhment of freedom on the ruins 
of defpotifm ; — who, though they may not 
greatly regret the defolation of mouldering 
towers, which have only been the fcenes of 
captivity and aflaffination, can recognize in 
their ruins the native ferocity of our unpo- 
liflied anceftors, and from thence deduce 
an awful comparifon between the favage 
licentioufnefs of gothic tyranny, and the 
mild bleffinga of fcience and philofophy, — 
the writings of the topographer may be 
very properly, and indeed laudably, ad- 
drefTed. 

It is no more in the power of one man, 
or of any one fet of men, to complete a 
general defcription of the furface of the 
country, than it is to confolidate the pro- 
vincial hiftories into a general view:— • 
many and many new labourers mull be 

found ; 



XVlll PREFACE. 

found ; many, and many new efforts muft 
be made, before we fhall have obtained 
any thing like a perfect collection of de- 
fcriptions,— -but the general benefit which 
would refult from the completion of the 
plan, is ftill the fame : and the endeavour 
to complete it,' fhould no more be objected 
to, becaufe different tourifts may happen 
to travel over the fame ground, than the 
endeavours of hiftorians to elucidate parti- 
cular facts, fhould be difcouraged, becaufe 
thofe facts have been previoufly introduced 
in the hiftory of another diftrict, or a dif- 
ferent part of the country. 

If any of the purchafers of my former 
publications fhould be induced to caft their 
eyes over the following ,pages, they will 
perceive, that in the prefent work I have 
not altogether fuperficially obferved all the 
places mentioned, but where my time al- 
lowed me, have introduced a greater por- 
tion of local hiftory, than in the Journey 

into Cornwall, accompanied with Monu- 
mental 



PREFACE. XIX 



mental Infcriptions, always copied by my- 
felf on the fpot. 

The latter part of the tour which con- 
tains a defcription of Buckingham/hire has 
been incorporated into this work out of the 
due order in which the obfervations were 
made, and which was originally under- 
taken by way of collecting, for a more per- 
fect hiftory, of the three hundreds of AJh- 
ingdon, in that county, than has yet been 
attempted. The minutiae may be objected 
to by fome ; but they will be at leaft in- 
terefting to the inhabitants of the neigh- 
bourhood defcribed : and the Author may, it 
is hoped, be forgiven, for the reafonable wifli 
of illuftrating the hiftory of places in which 
he patTed the firft years of his life. 

I did not judge it expedient, in a work 

of this nature, to infert the authorities on 

which the hiftorical remarks are founded; 

and, for the fame reafon, I have forborne 

to clog the text with notes ; hoping that 

the moft faftidious among thofe, who fhall 
3 conde- 



XX PREFACE. 

condefcend to read this little book, will not, 
for want of thofe clogs, fay of it what a 
certain captious Antiquary has infinuated 
againft a very refpe&able Tourift, that it is 
fuch a book as it is fafhionable to write, 
but from which it would be unfafe to quote 
a fmgle page. 

Thofe who travel in their clofets, or thofe 
who prefume thus to dogmatize, may in- 
dulge as long as they pleafe in the fplenetic 
effufions of contumely, but they will not 
induce the prefent enlightened age to refped: 
fuch miferable critics as the arbiters of tafte. 
Their gloomy ideas are net fo congenial to 
the liberality and tollerance of the times, — 
their antiquarian pedantry is not fo attrac- 
tive,— -their indifcriminate abufe is not fo 
implicitly regarded, as to deter us from the 
laudable undertaking of endeavouring to 
benefit, to improve, or to entertain ;— nor 
will they prevail on the generality of read- 
ers to forfake the pleafant and flowery path 
of mifcellaneous hiftory, for the rugged and 

dreary 



PREFACE, XXI 

dreary track which themfelves' point out as 
the only direct road to knowledge and im- 
provement. 

After having fo frequently folicited, and 
fo uniformly experienced the liberality of 
a generous public, who condefcended to 
encourage even my earlieft and humbleft 
efforts in the fields of literature, and of fci- 
ence, it would ill become me to defpair of 
equal candour, or equal kindnefs, I pre- 
fent this little work, with a fincere defire, 
that the pains which I have taken to ren- 
der it worthy of public favour, may nor have 
been beftowed in vain : and my regard for 
the welfare and happinefs of fociety, fo in- 
finitely overbalances every interefted or per- 
fonal idea, that if a fingle fentence herein 
contained has any evil tendency, I fhall be 
the firft perfon to rejoice at the work's be- 
ing difcountenanced. 



CON- 



CONTENTS, 



CHAP. I. 

On the Effects of the different Difpcjitions of Travellers.— On 
Wit and Learning mi/applied. — On Ill-Humour t~~On Criti- 
fifm, 'with a <wprd to the Reviewers. Page t 

CHAP. II. 

journey from London to Vxbridge, in a Stage Coach.— Wy^ 
combe. — Oxford.— Walk to Wood/lock. — Blenheim.— A Fu- 
neral—Reading a neceffary Qualification in a Clergyman.— 
Death. 15 

CHAP. III. 

Old JVoodfiock. — Heythorpe. — Enfione. — Stratford on Avon* — 
Shake/pear. 30 

CHAP. IV. 

Alcejler. — Ragley* — Droitivich. — Salt-Springs.— Approach to 
Worcefer. 40 

CHAP. V. 

City, Cathedral Church, and Bridge of Worcejler. 44 

CHAP. VI. 

€t Severn 1 s famed Meads." — Malvern Village, Hill, and 

Bath.— Morton Caftle. 5* 

bz CHAP, 



XXIV CONTENTS, 

CHAP. VII. 

Ledbury in Hereford/hire.— -Firzons.~-*>Stoke Court .-—Morde* 
ford. — Fovonhope, — ProfpeSis, — Man of Rofs, — The Wye, 
— Hijlory of the Dragon of Mordeford, — and of other Dra- 
gons* — River Lug. Page 62 

CHAP. VIII. 

Hereford. — Cathedral. — Monuments of the old Prelates, — Site 
of the Cajile, 77 

CHAP IX. 

White-Crofs. — Foxley. — Lady -lift, — Value of Cyder. — Lyons 9 
Hall. — Scenery on approaching the Principality , — Eyvjood.—— 
Reception at Prefeign. 85 

CHAP. X. 

Breftiign* — Church, — Anecdote,— "Warden-Walks. — Weobly 
Camp. — Profpecls, — Emigration of the Welch Peafantry,. 

9* 

CHAP. XL 

Views. — New Radnor, — The Cajile. — Remarkable Cafcade, — 
Mountainous Country.— L land egles Wells, — Penny bont. — 
R hyader-goivy, —Red Lion Inn, 1 04. 

CHAP XII. 

Crofs the River Wye, — Mountain. — Defert. — Bogs,— Preci- 
pices, — Promontories. — Lead-Mine, 1 1 6 

CHAP. XIII. 

Hafod. — Cafcades, — Walks. — Bridges. — Kitchen Garden, — 

'-The Cockatoo. — River Tjlwith, — Pont-y-Mynach, iz£ 

2 CHAP, 



CONTENTS. XXV 

CHAP. XIV. 

Rafod-Arms Inn. — Falls of the Rbyddol and the Mynach. — 
Sublime Scenery., — Reflections. Page 141 

CHAP. XV. 

Plinlimmon. — Gradual A/cent. — Turf Cottages, — - Miferable 
Life of the Shepherds. — Pent-y- Plinlimmon. — Ejfecls of War. 

H7 
CHAP. XVI. 

Road from Pont-y -Mynach to Aberyflwith. — Aberyflwith Caf- 
tle.—Tbe Rhyddol. — Sun Jetting. — Aberarth. — French In- 
vajion. 160 

CHAP. XVII. 

Aberayron. — Llangronog New Inn. — Caflell yn Dolig. — Car- 
digan. — The Bridge. — The Cajile. — and the Market. 1 70 

CHAP. XVIII. 

Road to Newcaflle. — River Teivy. — Ancient Cajile. — Approach 
to Carmarthen. 177 

CHAP. XIX. 

Carmarthen. — Bridge. — Cajile. — Reflexions.— The Church. — 
Merlin. 183 

CHAP. XX. 

Abergnuilly. — Coracles. — Line of Beauty.— Dinevaivr Cajile. 
— And Park. — Its ancient and prefent Jiate. — Improvements 
Juggefled. — Remarks. 188 

CHAP. XXI. 

Llandilo-vavsr.— Tbe Church.— Monumental Infcriptions. — 
Llandovery. 200 

CHAP. 



XXVI • CONTENTS. 

chap. xxir. 

Road from Llandovery to Trecaflle. — River*— The Inn. — » 
Llannfpddyd.~-The VJk* Page 207 

CHAP. XXIIL 

Brecon. — The Abbey and Cajlle.— River Wye. —-Hay. -—Clifford 
Caftle.— -'Journey to Kington^ in the Courfe of which we 
were lojl all Night on the Mountains* 2 1 5 

CHAP. XXIV. 

Return to Prefleign* — Road to Mortimer's Cro/s. — Richard's 
Cajlle. — Orkton* —Ludlow. — Hofpitah— Church. — C Jlk* 
— Lords Pre/idents of the Marches of Wales. — Hforical 
Anecdotes.— Remarks on certain Corporations* 230 

CHAP. XXV. 

Stoke Cajlle. — Downton. — Return to Ludlow. 264 

CHAP. XXVI. 

Road from Ludlow to Bridgenorth*—with feme Account of the 
latter. 274 

CHAP. XXVII. 

Termination of the Ride to Dudley. — Himley* — Dudley Cajlle*— 
Reflexions* 2?>0 

CHAP. XXVIII. 
Birmingham* 29 X 

CHAP. XXIX. 

Excurjion to ShenJlone 3 s Leaf owes. 299 

< CHAP. XXX. 

Road from Birmingham to Warwick. — Solihull. — Knowle. — 
Wroxall* 3" 

CHAP. 



CONTENTS. XXVU 

CHAP. XXXI. 

Warwick .—-Buildings, public and private. — Monuments. — Cul- 
tivation of the Vim. — Warwick Cajlle. — Paintings, — Ar- 
mour. — P 'ark and Pleafure Grounds.— Antiquities. — Superb 
Va/e. P a g e 316 

CHAP. XXXII. 

Charlecott. — Compton Verney. — Kineton.—Edge Hill. — Ban. 
bury. — Road to Buckingham, 350 

CHAP. XXXIII. 

An Excurfion to the Villages of Clay don, Hillefden, and Gren- 
don Underwood, with a particular Account of their Parijh 
Churches. 358 

CHAP. XXXIV. 
Dodder/hall. — £>uainton. — The Church. — Monuments. 3 7 4 

CHAP. XXXV. 

Wotton Underwood. —Dor ton Houfe.— Chilton.— The Church. 

401 
CHAP. XXXVI. 

Long Crendon. — Nutleigh Abbey, — Eythorp* — Aylefbury. 421 
CHAP. XXXVII. 

Ajlon Clinton. — Enter Hertford/hire. — Tring. — Peter the Wild 
Boy. — North Church.- Berzhamffiead. —The Cajlle. 434 

CHAP. XXXVIII. 

Two Waters. — King's Langiey. — Cajhioberry.Stanmore.— 
Watford.— Road to London, 442 



Publications by the fame Author, 



I. In 8vo, Price zr. 6d.— An ESSAY on PUTRID 

MALIGNANT FEVER, bV. &*<r.— Riving- 
ton, St, Paul's Church-Yard, and Stockdale, 
Piccadilly, London, 

II. In 8vo, Price 5/ — A JOURNEY into CORN- 

WALL, through the Counties of Southampton, 
Wilts, Dorfet, Devon, and Somerfet. — Riving- 
ton, St. Paul's Church- yard. 

HI. In 8vo, Price 3/.— OBSERVATIONS on the 
HISTORY and CAUSE of ASTHMA, fcrV, 
&fr» — Johnfon, St. Paul's Church-yard. 



And fpeedily will be fublijhed, 
(Dedicated, by Permiffion, to the Duke of Devonfhire), 

A DESCRIPTION of MATLOCK BATH and the 

adjacent Country, including an Attempt to explain 
the Caufes of Heat, and of the Petrifying Quality 
of thofe celebrated Springs. 



A JOUR- 



A JOURNEY 



INTO 



SOUTH WALES. 



CHAP. I. 



On the Efecls of the different Difpoftions of Travellers.— On Wit 
end Learning mifapplied. — On Ill-Humour. — On Criiiafm 9 
with a Word to the Reviewers. 

The peculiar difpofition with which a travel- 
ler fets out, is fure to have a confiderable in- 
fluence over the train of thinking produced 
during the whole of his journey. It becomes, 
therefore, a matter of great confequence, that he 
fhould avoid that faftidioufnefs which is apt to 
jaundice every object prefented to the fight, and 
which renders the mod beautiful and interefting 
fcenery tirefome and difgufting. 

A calm ferenity of mind, which can alone pre- 
pare it for the reception of pleafing ideas, and 
give it that high polifh which makes it capable 
of refitting the touch of thofe afperities to which it 
is every day expofed, feems more particularly re* 
quiilte, when we enter on a wide field of contem- 
plation, which abounds with a greater variety of 
B characters- 



2 A JOURNEY 

characters, and a greater proportion of acci* 
dents than ufual. 

It is the want of this calmnefs which frequently 
occasions the moft pleafant excurfions to termi- 
nate in difappointment: for we are too apt to buoy 
up the mind with falfe hopes, and fanguine ex- 
pectations of pleafure, that incapacitate us for 
making a proper ufe of thofe reflections which 
the fair face of nature plentifully fupplies. 

We mud not, therefore, allow the anticipation 
of what we are to meet with on a journey to 
elevate the imagination beyond its proper bounds* 
The dimes which nature provides for us are al- 
ways fimple, though elegant and gratifying: but 
the entertainment cooked by Fancy is graced 
and garniihed with artificial ornaments, and ar- 
ranged in the moft attractive manner. If we 
indulge in thefe ideal banquets, they are liable 
to pall the moft healthy appetite, and to vitiate 
the moft refined tafte :— we turn from the plain 
cookery of nature with apathy, or even difguft j 
and, to drop all metaphor, our defcriptions be- 
come warped by prejudice, and our arguments 
tinged with ill humour : the works of Nature 
appear diftorted, and the labours of Art only 
raife their front to be the fport of wanton criti* 
cifm, or the theme of fatirical abufe. 

12 Topo* 



INTO 'SOUTH WALES. J 

Topographical hiftory, when fairly and libe- 
rally written, is fraught with innumerable ad- 
vantages. 

The ftores of natural hiftory open to us fpon- 
taneoufly, and bring into a general review all the 
abfu»dities, as well as ingenuities, of the different 
fyftematic arrangements which have been made 
in that important fcience. 

The moralift, the philofopher, the merchant, 
every rank and defcription of men, becomes, in 
turn, the theme of narrative. The mafs of in- 
ftruction is general, and the pathway is flrewed 
with flowers, fo that the heart is improved, the 
judgment corrected, and the imagination de- 
lighted at once. 

The fuperiority of acquirement which we ob- 
ferve in others, teaches us to correct our own 
errors, and ftimulates us to a virtuous emulation. 
The contemplation of greater perfection and 
higher cultivation in other countries, prompts us 
to improve our native foil : and a fuperior degree 
of rudenefs and flerility among them, makes us 
grateful to the beneficent hand of Providence, for 
its more liberal diftribution of good to ourfelves j 
and teaches us contentment and thankfulnefs. 

With regard to the effects produced in de- 

fcriptive writing, from the pofTeflion of fuperior 

B 2 learning 



4 A JOURNEY 

learning and wit, I think it may be faid, that 
the proper application of wit can alone afford 
entertainment; —the rational difplay of learning 
can alone effect improvement ; for authors, who 
have enjoyed all the advantages of profound 
learning, fuperadded to the brilliancy of the moft 
poignant wit, have, not unfrequently, bordered 
on pertnefs, and fometimes foar into the gloomy 
regions of fcholaftic dulnefs. 

Wit changed into fatire, or twifted into pert- 
nefs, becomes defpicable. Learning, applied to 
childifh fubje&s, or diftributed at random, finks 
into contempt. They are then the fair game of 
criticifm, and deferve to be expofed to ever- 
lafting ridicule. 

Among numerous inftances of this manifefl 
abufe of parts, evidently beftowed for far better 
purpofes than thofe to which they have been ap- 
plied, Peter Pindar may be cited as a ftriking 
example. 

His wit appears in a malevolent fportivenefo., 
and his tafle difplays itfelf in a dirty appetite for 
every fpecies of fcandalous abufe, and farcaftic 
refle&ion. He grovelled in the filth of human 
frailty, for every particle of error which had 
been dropped by weaknefs, thoughtleflhefs, or 
folly: and, not fatisfied with expofing its real 

fhape 



INTO SOUTH WALES. $ 

ftape to public notice, he furnifhed magnifying 
gfaffes, through which its deformity might be 
more diftin&ly viewed. 

Regardlefs of the feelings of the inoffenfive or 
the virtuous, and puffed up with the applaufe of 
a few giddy and malevolent fpirits, he was not 
contented in the enjoyment of a victorious tri- 
umph, without dragging at his chariot wheels, 
in the true ftyle of Scythian barbarity, the charac- 
ters which he had fo grofsly derided, and fo in- 
duftrioufly fubje£ted to contempt. 

No man of fenfe and feeling could enjoy a re- 
paft, provided by fuch unclean fingers, and ca- 
tered fo difgracefully \ for however the viands 
might be difguifed by the artifices of thofe who 
difhed them up, the mind naturally turned to 
the mode by which they had been originally col- 
lected, and recognized the hands that drefled 
them. 

Wit, then, to be agreeable, and to afford en- 
tertainment, mould be directed by good humour : 
and learning, to be ufeful and inftru&ive, mufl 
ferve the caufe of truth, and promote the prac- 
tice of virtue. Wit muft be devoid of keen 
feverity ; and learning, of oflentatious pedantry. 
The peculiar temper and habit of a traveller, 
$nd the nature of his accuftomed ftudies, will 
B 3 necef* 



6 A JOURNEY 

necefiarily appear in all his obfervations. The 
hidorian, the antiquary, the philofopher, the po- 
litician, will be mamfeft to an attentive reader, 
in fpite of himfelf : but every author has it in his 
power to diveft himfelf of thofe prejudices which 
difgrace tbe hiftorian ; thofe foibles which ex- 
pofe the antiquary to ridicule j thofe levities which 
degrade the philofopher ; and that fiery fpirit 
of party rage which difgufts in the politician. 

It has been, of late, by much too faflnonable 
for writers on almoft every fubjecl to treat religion 
with lefs decorum than is due to, the confidera- 
tion of a topic fo' intimately connected with the 
happinefs of fociety. 

Mifchievous tenets have been propagated, and 
unworthy e^preffions introduced to the world, 
in books of hiftory, voyages, travels, and even 
novels and romances. Every fpecies of literary 
compofition has been converted into the means 
of poifoning the public mind with opinions de- 
flru&ive of all focial happinefs \ and with prin- 
ciples which directly tend to the fubverfion of all 
morality and religion : and, under the modeft 
title of the new philofophy, -treafon and atheifm 
have been fecretly inculcated, the fences of dif- 
tincuon between different ranks and degrees in 
fociety have been boldly broken down, and thofe 

eftublift- 



INTO SOUTH WALES. J 1 

eftablifliments, whofe worth has rendered them 
venerable and facred from the remotefl periods 
of antiquity., openly abjured and impudently tra- 
duced. 

The man, however, be his ftation or character 

as a writer, whatever it may, who thus converts 
the glorious liberty of the prefs into a vile and un- 
bridled licentioufnefs;; who endeavours to excite 
a contempt for religious inflitutions, or to ridicule 
thofe facred duties which are the great bonds of 
moral happinefs, I hefitate not to pronounce an 
enemy and a traitor to his country. 

It is not always neceffary that good health or 
a ftrong conftitution mould be porTeifed by a tra- 
veller, becaufe thefe advantages may be fometimes 
compenfated for by cheerfulnefs arid vivacity 5 but 
it frequently happens that the mind becomes 
enervated by the difeafes of the body, and a cap- 
tious inquietude is produced, which puts a man 
out of humour with himfelf and every thing ' 
about him. 

Innumerable obflacles, then, arife ,at every 
ftep, and perpetual interruptions four his temper, 
and render it unfit to convey juft or impartial 
ideas of thofe objects and occurrences which ap- 
pear to him ihrouded in the veil of morofenefs 
B 4 But 



S A JOURNEY 

But I confefs that I would rather fubmit to a little 
fplenetic animadverfion from the Tick and difeafed, 
who have at leafl fo me kind of excufe for tri- 
vial deviations from good humour, than to the 
naufeating effufions of vexation and difappoint- 
ment which fafhionable travellers, and genteel epi- 
cures, are continually obtruding on the public. 

He who drives from Dover to the Land's End 
in fearch of the bed fifh, mould not dare to call 
this travelling ;- — and yet how often do we di'f- 
cover, that the only tafle which is difplayed in 
two or three hundred pages, is that bf port wine, 
and the only addition made to the general flock 
of knowledge, is a catalogue of fign pofts, and 
the detail of a bill of fare. 

It is of very little confequence whether the 
Black Bull or the Marquis of Granbfs Head 
afforded the choiced dinner, or whether my Lord 
this, or Sir John t'other flept more foundly at 
the Bugle Horn, or the Star and Garter: whether 
the mutton was better roafted at the Blue Boar 
or the Golden Lion ; or the eels better fried at 
the Dog and Pincujhion, or the Pig and Carrot. 
A man mull be ill employed to travel only to eat, 
becaufe, in general, this may be done more con- 
veniently at home \ but his time is thrown away 

CQ 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 9 

to a ftill worfe purpofe if he plagues the world with 
a publication of his gormandizing adventures. 

While I am making thefe remarks on the qua-* 
lifications of topographical hiftorians, and the 
tendency of their works, I may, however, have 
awakened criticifm to my own defects ; and as 
I have little to hope from the candour of re- 
viewers, I fhall take leave to add a few obferva- 
tions on thefe directors of the public tafte before 
the conclufion of this fection. 

Integrity and unbiafled attachment to the truth 
of delineation, are to the hiftorian, what impar- 
tial juflice and found judgment are, to the critic. 

May I afk whether the papers which are em- 
ployed to difcipline and correct the literature of 
this country, are conducted on the liberal princi- 
ples of candid criticifm ? or if they are not fome- 
times made the vehicles for conveying dogmatical 
cenfures againft humble merit? cenfures which are 
the offspring of malevolence and jealoufly. May 
I afk, are not the reviews, which ought to be the 
faithful intelligencers of the public, and free from 
all duplicity, neither fwayed by partiality nor warp* 
ed by prejudice; formed to difcriminate juflly, not 
wantonly to condemn ; — are they not, I fay, be- 
come the inftruments of fcandalous abufe, the 

victims 



iO A JOURNEY 

victims of the groneft prejudice, and of the mofi: 
glaring partiality ? are they not become fo par* 
tial, that writings, which for their elegance of 
ccmpofition, or precifion of argument, deferve 
to be generally read, may remain for ever un- 
obferved, if their author's political opinions are 
not fufikiently avowed, to excite the attention of 
one party, or not fufficiently violent to engage 
the notice of the other ? 

This warfare between the critics, however it 
may have been provoked by the freedom with 
which every book that had a tendency to call 
forth the difcuflion of political queftions was a 
few years fince reviewed, will, in the end, greatly 
injure the literature as well as the repofe of the 
country. 

The unafTuming author, who in a fair race for 
public favour, had at lead fome chance of fuccefs, 
is now driven out of the lifts by the authoritative 
feverity, and the pointed malevolence of thofe, 
whofe bufmefs it ufed to be to clear the courfe, 
and remove every obftacle which might interrupt 
the competitors for fame, in arriving at the goal. 

Works fo conducted, and fraught with prin- 
ciples fo illiberal, can not long maintain a refpecl- 

able place in the republic of letters ; even now 

the 



INTO SOUTH WALES. %X 

the general opinion of the world has begun tq> 
(hake off the fetters of conftraint which thefe 
writings had been accuftomed to impofe: and 
that reverential obedience, with which they ufed 
formerly to contemplate thefe rulers of the prefs, 
and dictators of public fentiment is every day 
rapidly declining. 

The reviewers, enthroned on the fummit of 
literature, and awarding the fentence of appro- 
bation or difcountenance, on which the fame, 
the character, and perhaps the fubfiftence of an 
author depend, have deferted their high flation of 
public cenfors, and funk into the meannefs of 
political fqabblers and partizans ; — have bartered 
their independence and impartiality, for the des- 
picable gratification of flinging thofe writers 
whofe principles and opinions differ in any refpect 
from their own : and, as an elegant writer ob- 
ferves ? we have lived to fee l€ the Britlfh prefs, 
* c the grand palladium of Britifli liberty, devoted 
" to the caufe of Gallic licentioufnefs, that mor- 
" tal enemy of all freedom ; and even the pure 
" flream of Britifh crkicifm diverted from its 
" natural courfe, and polluted by the peftilential 
il vapours of Gallic republicanifm." 

Publica. 



\% A JOURNEY 

Publications diftinguifhed by the moft mif- 
chievous tenets have met with the higheft com- 
mendation and encouragement \ while thofe whofe 
aim was peace, and whofe doctrines morality, 
have either been negligently overlooked, or blaft- 
ed by the frown of difapprobation and contu* 
mely. 

Hackneyed fcribblers, engendered in the cor- 
ruption of political mifconducl:, or hatched by 
the glow of ambitious expectation, have never 
had pccafion to complain of the feverity of criti- 
cifm , but have bafked in the funfhine of the re* 
viewers' favour* 

The like partiality has been openly fliewn for 
the numerous exertions of 

'If Polemic frenzy, and irreverent rage,'* 

which have fanned the latent fparks of private, 
and almoft extinguifhed, animofities, into a 
flame: — for thofe tenets whofe hideous immo- 
rality ought to have configned them to eternal 
oblivion ; — and for every daring and attrocious 
effort which has been made to difturb the peace 
of fociety, or make the credit of religion. 

Calm, fair, difpafiionate argument has been 
difcountenanced, while vehement abufe, and en- 

thufiaftie 



INTO SOUTH WALES* t'j 

thufiaftic ravings have not only fecured the atten- 
tion, but the favour of the critics. Thefe qua- 
lifications only could introduce an author to the 
temple of literary Fame ; and the facrifices which 
her priefts required, have been no lefs than the 
candour, morality, and honour of her votaries. 
With fuch fentiments in my mind, k may be 
afked how I can look forward to the day when 
thefe remarks fhall become the fubjecl: of criti- 
cifm, and the food of thofe very animals, whofe 
indifcriminate voracity, or epicurean antipathies> 
have been treated with fome degree of freedom 
and feverity ? But however gratifying praife 
may be to human nature, fo much fo that " we 
" fwallow it with avidity, if it be offered even by 
" a madman :" I would have my book read by a 
few fenfible friends, and commented on with 
undifguifed fmcerity, though it might thus be 
espofed to the fevered cenfure, rather than I 
would receive, at the hands of the reviewers, a 
large portion of applaufe, or the mod gracious 
beheft of their fovereign dictation. 

I am not, indeed, very likely to attract their 
notice, having no high-flaming political topics to 
difcufs, — no inclination to inveftigate the different 
modifications of civil government, — nor com- 
plaints to make againft any form of religious woi> 

fliip 



14 A ")otj».NE , fc 

fiiip which teaches men to be good. I (hall not 
debate on " the divine right of kings," nor 
" the majefty of the people 5" but leave thefe 
things to heads wifer or worfe than my own } 
—to thofe who think they can infure public 
favour by their authority, or will meanly crave 
it through the medium of the reviewers, — to 
thofe who may pofiibly fometimes recommend 
themfelves to the powerful by obfequioufnefs and 
duplicity, or who will court the approbation of 
, the critics, by loofenefs of expreflion, bordering 
on profanenefs, and freedom of fentiment, tan* 
tamount to fedition. 

The fcenes which I am about to prefent, will 
be faithful, though perhaps rough Iketches of 
nature. The truth, and not the delicacy of co- 
louring 5 the clofe refemblance, and not the ele* 
gance of nnifh, mud be the criterion of their 
merit. 

Obfervations on men and manners muft be al- 
ways, in fome degree, capricious ; mine will not, 
I hope, be found either unfair or illiberal ; and 
if I am bold in the caufe of virtue and of diftrefs, 
I truft I fhall not be accufed of malignity, or 
want of candour, when the follies, and not the 
vices, the foibles, and not the wickednefs of the 
l^orld, are the fubje&s under confederation. 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 1$ 



CHAP. II. 

journey from London to Uxbridge in a Stage-Coach, — Wycombe, 
Oxford. — Walk to Woodjloch. — Blenheim, — A Funeral,— 
Reading a neceffary Qualification in a Clergyman. — Death. 

Having engaged a place m one of the ftage 
coaches which pafTes through Oxford, I took 
leave of the gay crowd in which I had been 
fpending my time in the great metropolis, and 
foon exchanged the noife and turbulence of that 
bufy fcene, for the calmer enjoyments of fruitful 
fields, and the more noble and fplendid fcenery 
of the rocks and the forefts. 

One cannot make a fudden tranfition from the 
tinfel glitter of fplendour and oftentation, to thofe 
brighter, and more interefting charms, with which 
the luxury of Nature has adorned her works, 
without experiencing a fenfation of pleafure and 
delight, which produces a certain degree of vi. 
vacity and cheerfulnefs. 

The journey which I propofed to myfelf was 
into South Wales, a country highly interefting, 

and 



1 6 A JOURNEV 

and recommended, in a particular manner, bf 
the lively and picturefque defcriptions of it, which 
have been lately publifhed. 

My rout, however, being confiderably different 
from that of many other travellers, and the flat- 
tering reception with which my former publica- 
tions have been honoured, affording me a pleafing 
hope of the continuance of that indulgence and 
patronage, which were fo liberally bellowed on 
the literary efforts of my earlieft years, I was in- 
duced to commit to paper a journal of the remarks 
which occurred to me during my tour ; and, 
with few alterations, they now make their ap- 
pearance in print. 

I had fcarcely taken my feat in the vehicle be- 
fore mentioned, when the coachman difcovered 
that the place which had been allotted me, was 
the property of a lady who had previoufly en- 
gaged it, and who was to meet the ftage coach at 
the Old Hats, a well-known public houfe on the 
Uxbridge road. The three other paffengers, how- 
ever, uniting their perfuafions, the fovereign of 
the whip was foon pacified ; and the lady oblig- 
ingly condefcended to allow me a fifth place ill 
this quadruple conveyance. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. if 

The drearinefs of the road to Oxford has been 
celebrated by innumerable travellers, but we were 
fo clofely (hut up, that we had no opportunity of 
adding to their remarks, whatever might have 
been our inclination. Dirty roads, it is true, 
and frequent (howers, were loudly complained 
of; though, like complainers in general, we had 
very little reafon to concern ourfelves about the 
one or the other, as we were not expofed to the 
inconveniences of either. 

It was in the afternoon when we fet out, and 
night approached jufl as we arrived at the firfl 
diftincl: appearance of verdure in the fields, and 
rural neatnefs in the cottages. 

All the habitations which we had before paffed, 
were either the fplendid abodes of the great, the 
whimfical conceits of the rich, or thofe miferable 
(habby-genteel famed huts, which feem to par- 
take both of town and country, but belong to 
neither. 

It was dark when we reached Uxbridge, a towri 
of which every traveller is tired with faying, he has 
nothing to remark ; but that it has a good mar- 
ket houfc ;— which, in fact, is neither very elegant 
nor ftriking, its fize being vaftly difproportionate 
to the height of the wooden pillars which fup* 
port it. 

C Part 



1-8 A JOURNEY 

Part of the building (till remains, in which the 
Commiffioners met in 1 645, for adjufting the un- 
happy differences between King Charles the firft, 
and his Parliament : and the light of a folitary ta- 
per, beaming through the narrow quarries, ena- 
bled us to difcern the apartment in which the fate 
of a great monarch, and a mighty nation, was 
once decided. 

In this neighbourhood too, lived the patriotic 
and undaunted Hampden, who^ firmly uncorrupt 
amidft the greateft dangers and temptations, 
braved even death itfelf, in defence of principles, 
which were then called obftinate, but havejince 
been honoured with the epithet of glorious. 

4( At length comes Time with Truth's pervading ray; 

(e To feparate the living from the dead; 
<l Clears the dark clouds of. prejudice away, 

" And roafis the varnifh off, by Flatt'ry fpread." 

A difpute about the penal laws, between a 
merchant and a farmer, two of my fellow tra- 
vellers, being carried on with great vehemence 
and gefliculation, very much difconcerted aWelch 
man, who fate in the oppofite corner of the 
coach, and feemed defiroixs to have ilumbered 
away the evening 5 fo that I was glad when we 

arrived 



IttTO SOUTH WALES. 19 

arrived at Wycombe, where a good fupper very 
agreeably refrefhed all of us, and reconciled the 
contending parties. 

The late Lord Le Defpenfer had a magnificent 
feat at Weji Wycombe, adorned with fine gardens, 
laid out in the formal ftyle, with avenues, and ca- 
nals, and fountains. The houfe, now the pro-* 
perty of Sir JoJm Dajhwood King, Bart, retains 
but little of its ancient fplendor, and that little 
it was too dark for us to notice. 

The moon fhone, however, on the oppofite 
hill, where an elegant chapel has been erecled, 
with a maufoieum at the eaft end, in which, 
among other remains of departed worth, is placed 
the heart of Paul Whitehead. 

Having changed horfes at Tetfworth, we foon 
reached Oxford ; and, like poor Moritz (the 
Pruffian divine, who made a pedeftrian excurfion 
fromLondon into Derby/hire) flopped at the Mitre, 
but did not find the " prince-like attendance 
<c there," which that gentleman was fo fortunate 
as to meet with. 

The indifpofition of one of the pafTengers, ad- 
ded to the inconvenience occafioned by the clofe- 
nefs of our flowage, induced me to quit the flage 
at this place ; and it being now about three 
C 2 o'clock 



CO A JOURNEY 

o'clock in the morning, there was fome difficulty 
in procuring a bed, particularly as the inn feemed 
to be left to the entire management of the waiters 
and coachmen* 

Difgufted by their incivility, and perhaps a lit- 
tle nettled by the preference which was given to 
a young gentleman, who alighted from the roof 
of the coach, and whom, from his carelefs air, 
and the manner in which he fwore, I prefumed to 
be a collegian, I determined to feek lodgings at 
another inn \ whither I caufed my portman- 
teau to be conveyed immediately, and where I 
was lucky enough to find a comfortable apart- 
ment. 

After a fhort repofe, I prepared to take a walk 
round this venerable city ; whofe beauties are fo 
numerous and attractive, that every traveller is 
prompted to attempt their defcription, although 
the talk requires a matter's hand. 

It was vacation time, and a kind of void feems 
to flrike one with penfive mufmg. An air of 
calm tranquillity is given to the buildings, the 
walks* and even the inhabitants. I enter Chrifi 
Church i where the ear fo often liftens with de* 
light and admiration, to the full-flowing periods, 
and the refined learning of men* juftly famed 

for 



INTO SOUTH WALES* 1 1 

for literary acquirements-; and where frienddiip 
is crowned with the joyous feftivity of a convi- 
vial board. 

All is now ferene compofure, and melancholy 
fiillnefs creeps along the walls. The mirth-re- 
founding cloifter is now forfaken ; and even the 
fountain in the quadrangle has ceafed to play. 

I droll through the venerable grove, and along 
the high o'er-arching vifta : I court the gentle 
ilream of Ifis, and wind my folitary way along 
the margin of her devious courfe. 

Thus wandering through the glade, the dear 
images of long loft friends arife before me ; and 
as the fleeting vifions pafs, " the grateful memory 
'* of the good" awakens the mind to thofe glori- 
ous paterns of departed excellence, which have 
been afforded us in their example. Let us re- 
member, however, that 

'* A friend when dead is but rernov'd from fight, 
" Hid in the luftre of eternal light : 
" Oft with the mind he wonted converfe keeps 
■' In the lone walk, or when the body fleeps ; 
et Lets in the wand'ring ray, and all elate, 
cl "Wings and attracts her to another flate ; 
" And, when the parting ftorms of life are o'er, 
" May yet rejoin him on a happier more." 

Ci The 



%2 A JOURNEY 

The afternoon being remarkably fine and 
calm, I walked to Wood/lock, and there awaited 
the arrival of the vehicle which was to convey me 
to Stratford on Avon, the next day. 

Eight miles of flat road, with few, or fcarcely 
any objects of attraction near it, would have been 
a dull and tirefome walk ; but I deviated from 
the turnpike, and followed the windings of a ca- 
nal which has been made from Oxford to Bir- 
mingham. 

A fmall bridge crofTes this cut, about four 
miles from the former, at a point where an open- 
ing prefents itfelf on the left, into a well-culti* 
vated, but level country. 

At length the plantations at Blenheim catch 
the eye ; and at the end of Woodjlock we'paffed 
a formal avenue, which leads to the houfe. 

The Duchefs of Marlborough has erected and 
endowed a neat alms-houfe, for ten poor widows, 
at the verge of the park, and clofe to the town 
of Woodjlock : this is the firft object which claims 
attention. 

Confidering myfelf in the light of a foot-pak 

fenger, and remarking the negligence, and even 

contempt to which fuch travellers are every 

where expofed, I paifed the fpacious hotel, at 

jo , which 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2J 

which they who travel with carriages, and horfes, 
and fervants, ufually flop, and trudged on to a 
comfortable little inn, near the church ; where, 
feeing the inviting fign of the Angel, and the dill 
more inviting appearance of infinite neatnefs 
about the premifes, I entered the houfe, and was 
received with as much civility, and treated with 
as much refpecl, as if I had been clothed in em- 
broidery, or had travelled in a coach and fix. 

Having refted myfelf a little while, I ftrayed 
out into the town, which I can not think either 
pleafantly fituated, or by any means deferving 
the encomia beftowed on it by fome who have 
travelled this road. 

Its manufactory of gloves and fleel trinkets is 
defervedly celebrated; but employs few hands \ 
and, like other branches of trade, has confider- 
ably declined during the war. 

Wood/lock confers the title of vifcount on the 
Duke of Portland^ by letters patent in 1689, the 
fame year in which the head of that family was 
created Earl of Portland. 

The beauties of Blenheim^ and the flnenefs of 
the weather, naturally drew me towards the park, 
which is open to ftrangers at all times : they are, 
however, only admitted into the houfe for a cer- 
tain number of hours every day. 

C 4 Blenheim 



&4 A JOURNEY 

Blenheim and its accompaniments have beer! 
very well defcribed, and full juftice (if not more 
than juftice) has been done to the fubject in va- 
rious publications ; but particularly in the Local 
Guide. 

I perfectly agree with Doctor Mavor, the re- 
fpectable mailer of a fchool here, and the author 
of that Guide, cc that the impreffion vifitors re- 
46 ceive from the view of a place is as frequently 
4C conveyed |by the mode in which it is fhewn, 
" as by its native beauties or defects." Blen- 
heim mud, indeed, always appear beautiful ; its 
ornaments are appropriate, its fituation delight- 
ful, its decorations neither too fparing, nor too 
numerous : the heavy ftyle of Vanburgh's archi- 
tecture is here even confiftent (which is more 
than can generally be faid for it), and in fhorr, 
the changes of the feafons, and the varieties of 
the weather, can fcarcely prevent us from be- 
holding this place with great fatisfaction ; and 
yet there is fomething fo extremely difgufting in 
the furly pride, and affected importance of the 
menials of his Grace of Marlborough* that a tra- 
veller is apt to lofe more than half of s his plea,- 
fure before he leaves the fpot : he is apt to lofe 
the complacency with which he entered the houfe, 
and, fometimes to retort unjuftly on the building;, 

or 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 25 

or the proprietor, for the conduct of his do- 
meflics. 

The fpot on which Chaucer refided, is unquef- 
tionably now the fcite of Mr. Prior's houfe, near 
the entrance of the park ; and many of the rural 
and fylvan fcenes which the old bard has painted 
fo imprefiively, were taken from thefe grounds. 

Lord Lanfdozvn, in his dramatic poem called 
" The Britifh Enchanters" has put a very neat 
and elegant compliment in the mouth of TJrgan- 
da, the enchantrefs, which deferves to be remem- 
bered. Speaking of her bower, fhe fays 

<f Here faithful lovers to fafe joys remove, 
*'• The foft retreat of Glory and of Love ; 
*' By Fate prepar'd to crown the happy hours 
" Of mighty kings, and famous conquerors : 
*' The Bower of Blifs 'tis called, and is the fame, 
<l Which mortals fhall hereafter Blenheim name." 

Returning from my walk, a funeral procef- 
fion caught my eye. I mingled with the crowd, 
and entered the church, which is a neat well- 
finiihed edifice, externally ; but contains nothing 
remarkable. 

Between the church and chancel there is a 
gallery enriched with carving; and fome elevated 

feats 



26 A JOURNEY 

feats for the Corporation of the Borough of New 
Wood/lock. 

A middle aged clergyman trotted through the 
fervice in a manner the mod fhamefully negli- 
gent, and with a tone and cadence the mod dif- 
fonantly difagreeable. 

No man can read well, who does not poiTefs 
fome degree of judgment ; who has not fome lit- 
tle underdanding of the fubjecl and the lan- 
guage | but I am fometimes at a lofs to know 
how it can happen for a perfon ever to read at 
all, without obtaining at leaft fufficient know- 
ledge of the fubject, and fufficient acquaintance 
with the language to make him read much bet- 
ter than even clergymen often do. 

If their lordJhips, the bifhops, would bepleafed 
to pay fome attention to this very neceflary and 
commendable qualification, as well as to the ac- 
quirement of Greek and Hebrew learning, I can 
not help thinking that they would do more to 
prevent feceflions from the edablifhed church, 
than will ever be effected by the mod florid ha- 
rangues, or the mod logical arguments againd 
" herefy and fchifm." 

The fined language, the mod exalted fenti- 

ments, and even the founded piety itfelf, un- 

, aided 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 1J 

aided by propriety of elocution, will produce but 
little efFecl on the minds of a mixed congregation : 
while the fublime truths of the Holy Scriptures, 
and the excellent Liturgy of the Church of Eng- 
land, when delivered with that ferious energy by 
which they ought to be enforced, can fcarcely 
fail of making a due and lading imprefiion. 

Far be it from me to depreciate the necef- 
fity and the advantages of the learned languages ; 
but I hope I fhall be pardoned by the reverend 
bench in fuggeding, that the prevalence of- a 
carelefs and inattentive habit of reading the fer- 
vice of the church, is really one great caufe 
of the number of dhTenters, or rather feceders 
from the church. All men can not judge of 
the learning of the clergy, but there are few 
fo ignorant or unfeeling as not to didinguifh be- 
tween a good reader and a bad one. 

The corpfe which I had attended to the grave, 
was now depofited among its kindred dud. It 
was the remains of a maiden lady, who had at- 
tained a very great age ; and having furvived all 
her relations and acquaintances, left behind her 
few, if any, real mourners. The riling figh, 
and darting tear, however, from the more feri- 
ous and companionate of thofe who attended, 

were 



28 A JOURNEY 

were indications of a grateful fenfibility in the 
living, and a filent commendation of the de- 
ceafed. 

Death, in its mod frequent fhape, is an awful 
intruder, and his imperious dominion is always 
reluctantly fubmitted to ; though his fiat is irrfc- 
fiftible, and his arrival certain. 

Thofe beauteous eyes, which once fhot capti- 
avtion at every glance, which beamed in loveli- 
nefs incomparable, are clofed u in putrid night." 
Thofe heavenly fmiles, which raifed into raptu- 
rous delight the admiration of a thoufand lovers, 
are changed into the ghaftlinefs of horror, and 
contracted with the pale rigidity of death ! The 
finews of ftrength are here relaxed, and the 
graceful form now moulders into dull. 

Hufhed are all the paffions of the mind ! Am- 
bition, which prompted to high afpirement — Re- 
venge, which lurked in fecret hiding places, 
deeply intent on mifchievous purpofes — Envy, 
whofe rancorous fangs marked her own bofom 
with perpetual fears, has yielded to the grim ty- 
rant's power i The gay expectancy, the ardour 
of defire, the accumulation of wealth, the juve- 
nile profpedts, the mature fchemes, the ancient 
prejuiices, are fruftrated and deftroyed ! The 

fanguine 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 29 

fanguine hopes of the hero are perifhed, and the 
mighty viclor no longer glories in his ftrength, 
nor boafts his conquefts ! 

" Oh! Death, how (hocking mud the fammons b* 
** To him who is at eafe in his pofTemons ; 
•« Who, counting on long years of pleafure here, 
" Is quite unfurnifh'd for the world to come. 
*' In that dread moment, how the frantic foal- 
" Raves round the walls of her clay tenement ; 
" Runs to each avenue, and fhrieks for help ; 
" But lhrieks in vain ! how wifhfully fhe looks 
<c On all (he's leaving — now no longer tier's ! 
" A little longer — yet a little fpace ! 
" Oh ! might fhe flay to wafh away her flains, 
" And fit her for her paffage !** 

But fweet is the fleep of death to him, wbd 
by a patient endurance of earthly fufferings, and 
a uniform perfeverance in the ways of virtue, 
has fecured to himfelf the favour of that bleffed 
Mediator, who having " in his own perfon over- 
" come the fharpnefs of death," hath made it 
the paffage to everlafting manfions of bappinefs 
and joy. 

V 



JO A JOURNEY 



CHAP. IIL 

Cld Woodjlock. — •Beythorpe.—Enjlom.— Stratford on Avon.** 
Shah/pear* 

Early the next morning I walked to Old 
Wood/lock, where the ftage coaches flop, and not- 
withstanding the keened wind, which I ever re- 
member to have felt, blew from the north eaft, 
mounted the roof of the firft machine which ar~ 
rived, being anxious to reach Strafford on Avon. 

I have fcarcely feen any part of Great Britain 
lefs interefting to the traveller than the road over 
which we paifed ; no object worth mentioning 
prefenting itfelf, unlefs I mould particularize the 
wall with which the park at Blenheim is inclofed, 
the work of Henry the Firft, whofe grandfon, of 
the fame name, rendered Woodjlock famous in 
our old hlftories, by the " delightful bower" 
which he made there for Rofa?nond Clifford. 

John Rous, the antiquary, fpeaking of the 
park at Wood/lock as the firft enclofure of the 
kind in England^ has thefe words, cs etiam in 
« Anglia parcum de Woodjlock cum palacio, in- 

" fra 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 3 1 

" fra prsdi£tum parcum, qui parcus erat primus 
" parcus Anglic, et pro eo fiendo plures villse 
" deftru&as funt, &c." and in the " Appendix 
** to Robert of Gloucefter" by Hearne, are the 
following lines: 

«< Then regnyd Harry, nought full wyfc, 

li The fon of Mold the emperyfe, 

" He held Roftmund the fheen 

" Gret forwe hit was for the queen : N 

«* At Wodejloke for hure he made a toure 

" That is called Rofemounde\ boure." 

Hollinjhead alfo fays, " King Henry the Second 
** made for Rofamond an houfe at Woodjlocke^ 
" like to a labyrinth, Sec." 

Beyond Woodjlock the plantations at Heythorpe, 
the feat of the Earl of Shrewjbury, now arrived 
at the full perfection of matured growth, mock 
the drearinefs of the furrounding country, which, 
neither enriched with verdure, diverfified with 
cattle, nor varied by a hedge-row, or even a 
hawthorn, flretches into a broad expanfe of cold, 
bleak-looking, level fields, difguftfully feparated 
from each other by rude (lone walls. 

At En/lone, we flopped to breakfaft 5 but the 
inn being kept by one of the proprietors of the 
coach, we had not finished a fcanty repafl before 



32 A JOURNEY 

we were fumnioned to refume our places, ill 2 

tone of authority which implied little lefs than ail 

abfolute command. We were very ill fortified 

againfl the wind and the froft by what we had 

been able to procure ; and fo, in no very good 

humour, and fhivering all the time with cold ? 

we growled at each other, till we reached Ship- 

Jlon. 

The water-works at E/i/lone, elaborately de- 

fcribed by Doctor PIott 9 the Hiftorian of Oxford- 
jhire, are contained in a fmall building at the end 
of the village. Their celebrity, however* has 
declined, in the fame proportion as the formality 
of Dutch gardening has given place to the ratio- 
nal arrangements of modern times. 

Thefe water-works were originally projected 
by Mr. Bujhell, who had been fervant to the im- 
mortal Lord Bacon, and was afterwards furveyor, 
or farmer, of the king's minerals in Wales. 

The profpecl: from Long Compton Hill is ex ten- 
five, but the fcenery is neither pi&urefque nor 
interefting, and the wind was fo exceffively tern- 
peltuous that it was with difficulty we kept our 
feats on the roof of the coach. 

The road paffes a good family houfe a little 
beyond Ship/ton^ with a large fheet of water in a 

meadow 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 33 

meadow before it, leaves the little village of Hal* 
ford, and a fmall white houfe exactly in the fhape 
of a knife-box, on the right, and enters the en- 
clofures. 

In a fpacious meadow, by the fide of a wind- 
ing brook, there is a fnug little box, which ap- 
pears capable of great improvement ; but it is at 
prefent vilely difgraced by its glare of white- wafh, 
and want of trees. 

Entered Stratford by a long narrow bridge 
over the Avon, built, as appears by an inscription 
on a pillar (landing on the north fide of it, by 
Sir Hugh Clopton, Knt. a citizen of London, in the 
reign of Henry the feventh. 

It is a mod fortunate circumftance for Strat- 
ford, that Shakefpear was born here ; fuch aa 
event was necefTary to render it worthy of notice; 
for the town turns its back on the road, and thofe 
who might be inclined to deviate from it, and to 
pafs through the flreet, are prevented by the in- 
tolerable roughnefs of the pavement. 

Avon glides along with great elegance, but 
only one man of fortune has been found with tafte 
enough to fettle on its bank, the reft of the houfes 
which fkirt the river being chiefly inhabited by 
the lower claffes. 

D In 



34 A JOURNEY** 

In the middle of the town is a neat feffiont 
houfe, in which are two pictures of the great 
Shake/pear , by Wilfon ; and Garrkk, from a copy 
of Gain/borough. The front is alfo adorned with 
an indifferent ftatue of the former, in the fame 
attitude as the figure on his monument, in Weft* 
fninfter Abbey* 

" To paint fair nature, By divine command, 

** Her magic pencil in his glowing hand, 

** A Shake/pear rofe — then, to expand his fame 

** Wide o'er this breathing world, a Garrich cam©* 

" Though funk in death the forma the poet drew y 

# * The adtor's genius bade them breathe anew. 

** Though, like the bard himfelf, in night they lay- 

*« Immortal Garrick call'd them back to day ; 

M And, 'till eternity,, with power fublime, 

" Shall mark the mortal hour of hoary time, 

s< Shake/pear and Garrick) like twin liars mail fhine r 

** And earth irradiate, with a beam dftitK.** 

Pieces of Shake/pear's mulberry tree continue 
to be fold in a variety of fhapes, — in tobacco 
Hoppers, fnuff boxes, &.c. and, no doubt, there 
will be found an ample fupply of thefe facred re- 
lics, till the end of time. The man who fells ir r 
however, will, at any time, vouch for its being 
genuine, and the fame teftimony may very pro- 
bably be obtained from his children in the next 

century- 



INTO SOUTH WALES. $5 

century. A whole foreft could fcarcely have 
fupplied materials fufficient to have formed half 
the trinkets which have been already difpofed of j 
but fo long as credulity lads, there will be found 
knaves ready to pocket the money of the weak 
and fuperftitious. 

The edifice which has been called the great 
church of Stratford (though for no reafon that 
I can difcover diftinguifhed by that epithet) 
ftands in a low piece of ground warned by the 
Avon,) which renders the building exceflively 
damp and incommodious. 

Here lie the mortal remains of Shake/pearl 
€t The man whofe merits deferve a temple/ ' finds 
in this place an humble tomb. His grave is 
near the altar, under a plain blue Hone, with 
his name and the well known lines following : 

" Reader, for Jefus' fake, forbear 

*' To dig the duft enclofed here ; 
" Bleft be the man who fpares thefe flones, 

•' And curft be he who moves my bones." 

He died on the 23d of April, 1616", aged S3* 

The effigy, in alabafter, of the fame great 

man, is placed againft the north wall of the 

chancel,— a clumfy piece of ftatuary, every way 

D % unworthy 



$6 A JOURN1Y 

unworthy of him whom it is defigned to repre* 
fent. 

Contigious to the church is a charnel houfe, 
full of bones, which have been perfectly bleached 
by long expofure to the air. It has been faid 
that this place fuggefted to the Bard the folemn 
{eerie of the grave digger, in " Hamlet" but it 
feems more likely to have fuggefted the quaint 
lines which reflect difgrace rather than honour 
on his tomb. 

There are fome inferiptions in memory of the 
family of Coonibe, to which Shake/pear was rela- 
ted ; and a large painted and gilt monument 
of the Cloptons, with recumbent effigies of George 
Carew, Earl of Totnefs, Baron Carew of Clopton^ 
and the Lady Joke his wife. 

The church of Stratford claims fome peculiar 
privileges, and its vicar is exempt from the ju* 
xifdiclion of the Archdeacon of Worcefter. 

Welcome Hills, (now the feat of Mr. Lloyd) at 
the diftanee of about a mile from Stratford, was 
the refidence of John Coombe, uncle of the im- 
mortal Shah/pear : but they who look for wild, 
romantic, or beautiful fcenery, as images of the 
vafi conception of this wonderful man, will be 
disappointed. His impreflions were not received 

from 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 37 

from furrounding objects, — they were the fponta. 
neous productions of native and original genius. 
Here, indeed, he was born, and here he died : 
and thefe events formed the whole of the con- 
nexion between Shake/pear and Stratford, 

" Far from the fun and Cummer gale, 

'* In thy green lap was Nature's darling laid, 

•* What time, where lucid Avon ft rayed ; 

'* To him the mighty mother did unveil 

44 Her awful face j the daunrless child 

" Stretch'd forth his little arms, and fmil'd. 

" This pencil take (fhe faid) whofe colours clear, 

ic Richly paint the vernal year: 

(t Thine too thefe golden keys, immortal boy! 

" This can unlock the gates of joy, 

'* Of horror that, and thrilling fears, 

" Or ope the facred fource of fympathetic tears." 

A very ferene walk of lime trees, bent into an 
arbour, reaches from the entrance of the church 
yard to the north door. 

It too frequently happens that a man's poverty 
is as infurmountable a bar to the good opinion 
of his neighbours, as to his advancement in life. 
Of this remark I had an ample illuftration at 
Stratford. The ftory is very fliort, and limply 
this. 

D 3 Having 



38 A JOURNEY 

Having an intention to be prefent at divine 
fervice, I made fome enquiries refpecling the 
afternoon preacher, but received fuch a forbid* 
ding account of the clergyman, that no other ex- 
citement but that of curiofity could poffibly have 
induced me to become one of his auditors. I 
went, however, and though with no defign " to 
"feoff" certainly with no very, fervent hope of 
improvement, — but how happily and agreeably I 
was difappoirited, this fentence fhall be a lading 
teftimony. 

The language and fentiments of the preacher 
foon recalled my attention, and rivetted it upon 
the facred truths which ifTued from his lips with 
irrefiflible force. The difcourfe was every thing 
which it ought to be \ — it was plain, corre£t, and 
intelligible!— it was nervous, claflical, and im- 
preffive ! I know not whether it came from the 
heart, but every one of the congregation muft 
have felt that it reached to it, — which is, I be- 
lieve, the bed proof we could have of the lince- 
rity and earneftnefs of the preacher, I found 
afterwards, that this clergyman was poor and un* 
fortunate : had he been rich and oftentatious, 
* c the fcribes and pharifees" of Stratford would 
have " praifed and adored him 5 ' as readily as 

their God? 

If 



INTO SOUTH WALES. g$ 

If this remark mould reach them I will only 
recommend a little more charity towards one ano- 
ther, than was (hewn in the inftance above re- 
lated ; and that they will not prefume to fhift 
the reflection to their neighbours, but quietly fuf- 
fer them who deferve the cenfure, ferioufly to 
apply ft to themfelves. 

Near the church formerly flood an old man- 
fion called the college, probably from its fcite 
having been the foundation of a building be- 
longing to the church at its erection, in the reign 
of King Edward the Second, when it was col- 
legiate. This building has been completely de- 
molifhed, and the ground on which it flood is 
converted into a garden. 



D 4 



40 A JOURNEY 



CHAP. IV. 

Alcejler. — Ragky. — Drottwich.—Salt Springs. — Approach to 
Worcejler, 

From Stratford I purfued my journey on horfe- 
back, and took the road to Bro?nfgrove, which 
pafies through an enclofed country, and after- 
wards, winding to the left, enters Alcefter by a 
bridge over the river Arrow, which appears to 
have been lately rebuilt, but has the date 1600 
on a ftone fixed in the parapet. 

Alcefter is, as the name fignifies, a town of 
great antiquity, and was a Roman ftation. There 
are no records preferved of its former grandeur 
or importance, but feveral coins have been dis- 
covered from time to time, and two urns, which 
were dug out of a fepulchral barrow, are now 
in the poffemon of a gentleman of the town. 

Alcefter is, at prefent, a place of little note, 
and even the turnpike road paffes rather by than 
through it, 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 41 

The church is a venerable pile, fituated in the 
centre of the town, and contains a monument of 
the family of Grevil/e. 

Ragfey, the feat of the Marquis of Hertford, is 
elevated on a commanding eminence, about a 
mile from Alcefter. The houfe is handfomely 
built of (lone, and the park charmingly wooded. 

Quitting the Bromfgrove road foon after hav- 
ing left Alcefter^ turned to the left towards 
Droitzvich. 

On approaching the very borders of Worcef- 
terjhlre, I found myfelf in the region of Pomona; 
every cottage is furrounded with apple-trees, and 
every profpeft affords an induftrious thriving po- 
pulous fcene. 

The road rifes and declines very fuddenly, and 
gratifies the traveller with fome pleafing views of 
the woods and plantations of Ragley, 

Winding to the left, a beautiful retrofpe&ive 
view is prefented, of a rich and fertile valley, 
bounded with gentle eminences. Beyond, the 
road becomes flatly infipid and difagreeable, pafT- 
ing in a direcl line for four or five miles down 
a green lane : the way is rough, and the turf, by 
the fides, foft, moify, and yielding. The coun- 
try around is diverfifted with hill and valley, but 

the 



42 A JOURNEY 

the one is not bold enough to be fublime, and 
the other wants extent, to make it interefting. 
The profpe&s are indeed neat, and every where 
exhibit proofs of good hufbandry. 

Breakfafted at Fakenham, a poor place, neither 
a town nor a village ; that is neither populous 
nor rural. Rode to DroitwUh> celebrated for its 
fait fprings. 

The town feems to be declining, the buildings 
are difcoloured with fmoke, half of the houfes 
vacant, and the countenances of the inhabitants 
are pale, fallow, and fqualid. The pecuniary 
compenfation for their labour is very fmall, and 
even the mofl induitrious can not, without dif- 
ficulty, procure the neceffaries of life. 

The fume arifing from the brine pits was fo 
intolerably ofFenfive that I had no inclination 
to examine the procefs of making fait, by a mi- 
nute infpeftion of the works ; neither, indeed, 
is there any thing very curious in it. The brine 
was not fo (hong formerly as it is at prefent. A 
gentleman, about the year 1725, having acci- 
dentally heard that the fait fprings in Chejlrire 
were dug to a greater depth, caufed the flratum 
of talc or gypfum at the bottom of his pits to be 
bored through, when a current of very flrong 

brine 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 43 

brine immediately burft forth with prodigious 
violence, which rendered the old fprings of little 
value, and ever fince that time, there has been 
a great fuperabundance of brine. 

An ancient church Hands on a deep hill, and 
con lifts of a fquare tower, with two aifles at* 
tached to the north fide of it, and a third awk- 
wardly (luck on at the eaft end. 

It is difficult to fay how long the fait fprings 
here have been difcovered, but it Is certain that 
they were highly celebrated as early as the days 
of King Alfred. ~ 

After leaving Droitwich the road gradually 
improves as you approach nearer the fair city of 
Worcejter ; the Malvern Hills breaking into the 
profpect. at fome diflance. The cottages which 
border the road are the mod comfortable and ru- 
ral that can be imagined, and to each is attached 
a large piece of garden ground, which is kept 
incomparably neat, and in the highefl ftate of 
cultivation. 

One mile from Worcejler a gentle eminence 
affords a pleating view of the town, with the 
fpires of the churches fprouting from among the 
trees, the neat villas in its neigbourhood, and 
the magnificently fwelling bofom of the hills of 
Malvern. 



44 A JOURNEY 



CHAP. V. 

City. Cathedral Churchy and Bridge of Worcejler. 

There is nothing very finking in the imme- 
diate approach to Worcefler, and the objects of 
curiofity and attraction within the town itfe'lf are 
few ; but an air of neatnefs and elegant fimpli- 
city pervades every part of it. The flreets are 
excellently paved, and a uniformity of building 
prevails, in which it far exceeds almofl every 
town in England, excepting Bath. 

The Cathedral Church, which ftands on the 
bank of the Severn, has been lately repaired and 
beautified, with confiderable tafte. I am not, 
however, of opinion, t that the mod ancient mo- 
numents are rendered either more venerable or 
more appropriate, by being painted of a pea* 
green colour. 

The inimitable monument of that virtuous and 
amiable prelate, Doctor John Hough, by Row 
billlac, which is placed on one fide of the en- 
trance to the choir, has been frequently noticed ; 

that 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 45 

that of Bifnop Maddox, on the oppofite fide, 
feems to have been overlooked : it is, however, a 
noble memorial, and records a great character. 

There are many monuments of perfons, who, 
* as John/on obferved on another occafion, did not 
think that their names would be fo foon for- 
gotten ; and among them are a few of confider- 
able antiquity. 

The pufillanimous and unfortunate King John 
is buried in the choir ; but, it is faid, not under 
his monument. 

On the fouth fide of the altar, in a fmall ora* 
tory, lie the remains of Prince Arthur^ elded 
fon of King Henry the feventh. 

The organ is highly ornamented with gilding, 
and various' embellifhments, which do not very 
well accord with the neat fimplicity of the 
church. 

The epifcopal throne is an unoftentatious feat, 
furmounted with a mitre, but otherwife entirely 
deftitute of ornament. The eaft and well win- 
dows are of flained glafs ; but the arrangement 
of the colours is fo contrived, as to produce a 
very unpleafant effect on the eye ; particularly in 
the eaft window. The fouth fide of this edifice 
exhibits marks of antiquity evidently fuperior to 
2 the 



4*> A jOtl&KEY 

the refl of the building ; and the reafon for k 
feems to be, that this fide being completely hid* 
den by the furrounding buildings, and protected 
by the caftle, has undergone lefs alteration than 
the other parts of the church. 

Eaftward of the Cathedral is an old gateway, 
called Edgar's Tower ; about which antiquaries 
have been much divided in their opinions. Ha- 
bingdon, a learned man, who wrote fomewhat more 
than a century ago, fuppofed that it was erected 
in the days of King John ; by whofe name it 
has, however, ceafed to be clidinguiihed. The 
date 1005 is faid.tohave been cut in Gothic cha- 
racters on a fmali fhield over the point of the 
arch ; but Doctor Littleton, dean of Exeter, very 
judicioufly remarked, that the ityle of architec- 
ture alone was fufficient to prove that it mud 
have been built at a later period ; for the Saxon 
arch was ufed, with very little variation, till th« 
xeign of King Stephen ; and it is by no means 
certain, that the three figures ftill remaining on 
the eaft fide of the gateway, were defigned for 
Edgar and his two queens. 

Doctor Littleton quotes a manufcript of Mr. 
Habingdon's in fupport of his opinion, that the 
central of thefe three figures (which is a flatue 

fitting 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 47 

fitting crofs legged) was to reprefent King John; 
but after all I fee no objection to admit the an- 
tiquity of the ftatues, though the tower itfelf 
may be much more modern. Every thing about 
it confpires to evince that its age is not fo very 
great as fome have fuppofed ; and if it had re- 
ally been built at a very remote period, it mould 
feem a little extraordinary that it was called King 
John's Tower, in the year 1232, when Henry 
the third gave to the prior and convent here 
fnuated, one moiety of his caftle ; and divided 
the premifes by an embattled wall, part of whichr 
is dill remaining. 

As to the date, whether it be 957 (as fome 
fay) or 1005, it is probable that the (lone on 
which the figures remained might be worked up 
m the new building : for they who fuppofe that 
this edifice was built in the reign of Ethelred 
the fecond, allow that what was called the "New 
Tower/' fell down in 1 175. I do not recoiled 
that this circumftance has been attended to by 
Habingdon, Doctor Thomas, Doctor Littleton, or 
Doctor Najh ; but it is at leaft fair to conjec- 
ture, that this New Tower was the work of Ed- 
gar ; and that King John, among other improve- 
ments of the Cattle, built the prefent gateway- 
out 



48 A JOURNEY 

out of the old materials ; a prefumption reafori* 
ably fupported by the ftyle of building, as well 
as its decorations* 

The Tower above mentioned feems to have 
been the entrance both to the Clofe and the Caf- 
tle', of which lad the mount, in which the keep, 
perhaps, formerly flood, is the only trace re- 
maining, 

Thomas Habingdon, before quoted, who though 
a rigid Roman Catholic, was alfo a perfon of 
great humanity ; engaged in defigns for the re- 
leafe of Mary Queen of Scots, which nearly colt 
him his life : he was, however, pardoned ; but 
this efcape did not deter him from being con- 
cerned in the Gunpowder Plot, or at lead har- 
bouring the confpirators ; in confequence of 
which he was confined for life to his native 
county, where he employed his life in collect- 
ing materials for its hiftory. 

Worcefter Cafile was fituated on the fouth-eaft 
fide of the Cathedral, and part of its fcite is now 
occupied by fome of the prebend al houfes. Part 
of the ancient wall which enclofed the Cafile 
is ftill remaining near the Severn, and not far 
from the Cathedral : and on a brafs plate af- 
fixed to it, clofe to a poftern gate, two violent 

and 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 49 

and dreadful inundations, from the overflowing 
of the river, are recorded ; by the laft of which 
the whole of the circumjacent country was laid 
under water. 

Mr. Green, in his " View of Worcejler" men- 
tions the firft of thefe inundations, in 1484, in 
the reign of Richard the third, which happened 
at the very time when the Duke of Buckingham, 
at the head of his Welch partizans, was preparing 
to crofs the Severn, and oppofe the tyrant's 
forces. 

Thus Shake/pear makes a mefienger fpeak to 
King Richard : 

a . by fu (Men -floods and falls of water, 



" Buckingham' s army is difpers'd and fcatter'd, 
'*' And he himfelf wander'd away alone, 
u No man knows whither." 

Worcefier, having made a confpicuous figure 
in the Englifh hiftory at various periods, the 
events by which it has been diftinguifhed are too 
well known for the public to require a further 
account of them ; that man, however, muft bein- 
fenfible to the real welfare of his country, who can 
pafs through the town, without making a compa- 
nion between the difafters and carnage of thofe 
unhappy times, when Rebellion openly (talked 
E abroad, 



50 A JOURNEY 

abroad, and thefe fair ftreets were deluged with- 
blood, and the quiet unmolefted fecurity of the 
prefent age, in which the induftrious artizan 
peaceably enjoys the fruit of his honed labours ; 
the rich liberally aflift the diftrefTes of the indi- 
gent, and the laws equally protecl therh all. 

King Charles the fecond feems not to have 
been unmindful of the afliftance whicfy the 
crown derived, from the fidelity and attachment 
of the men of Worcefter, in the civil war ; and 
accordingly he bellowed considerable privileges 
on the city, as fomecompenfation for the blood 
which 'had been fpilt in that unhappy conteft. 

In the front of the Guildhall, which is a com- 
modious building, are two indifferent ftatues of 
Charles the firffc and fecond, in their royal robes. 
It is remarkable, that the former is reprefented 
holding a model of a church very high, in his 
left hand, and his fceptre very low ; and that the 
latter lifts the fceptre above his head. 

The following motto is infcribed along the 
front of the .building :~- 

" FL0REAT SEMPER FIDELIS CIVITAS." 

It being Sunday, we had ro opportunity of 

infpe&ing the china and carpet manufactories, in 

which 



INTO SOUTH WALES. $1 

which a confiderable number of hands are con- 
itantly employed ; but we had an opportunity of 
feeing the ftreets thronged with well-drefled peo- 
ple during the greatefl part of the day. 

One of the parifh churches, dedicated to St. 
Andrew, is ornamented with a delicate fpire of 
great height ; and I could not but fancy its per- 
fect fymmetry, a great honour to Mr. Wilkinfon 
its architect. 

The Severn flows on the fouth fide of the town, 
with vaft grandeur j and a handfome bridge of 
five arches, with a profufely ornamented baluf- 
trade, has been erected over it, by Guynn, at the 
expence of the corporation, who continue to re- 
ceive a toll from every perfon pairing it, although 
it has been completed upwards of nineteen years. 
An infcription on the eafl fide informs us, that 
the Earl of Coventry, lord lieutenant of the 
county, and recorder of the city, laid the firft 
{tone ; and the name of the mayor of Worcejier, 
and the architect, are preferved on the oppo- 
site wall. 



E2 



5^ A JOURNEY 



CHAP. VI. 

«< Severn's famed Meads." — Malvern Pillage, Hill, and Bath. 
Morton Cajlle, 

Crossing the Severn by the bridge before men- 
tioned, we patted the village of St. John's, which 
may be confrdered as a kind of fuburbs to Wor- 
cejier ; turned to the left, and proceeded towards 
Hereford, 

The meadows by the Severn fide, defervedly 
celebrated for their verdure and fertility, ftretched 
themfelves on our left, and here and there the 
fwelling fails of the barges gave grace and life 
to the pi&ure. 

The fecundity of the foil is mentioned by Sfi* 
merville: 

" On thefe luxuriant banks, flow'rs of all hues 
** Start up fpontaneous ; and the teeming foil, 
'* With hafty moots, prevents its owner's prayer : 
*' The pamper'd wanton fleer, of the fharp axe 
*' Regardlefs, that o'er his devoted head 
" Hangs menacing, crops his delicious bane ; 
" Nor knows the price is life : with envious eye, 

* Hit 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 53 

" His lab'ring yoke-fellow beholds his plight, 

i( And deems him bleft, while on his languid neck, 

" In folemn floth, he tugs the ling'ring plough." 

We were forewarned by the noife of the an- 
vils, of our approach to an iron-foundery. It is 
called Powicsford, and ftands on the banks of 
the Tetne, which has been made navigable by 
the proprietor of the foundery, to its junction 
with the Severn, about a mile diftant. 

Here the road interfe&s a moil beautiful mea- 
dow. Part of it, on the left, marked with the traces 
of the plough, though nearly obliterated ; but 
every inequality is completely worn out of the 
oppofite fide, where it ftretches itfelf for at lead 
an hundred acres, as fmooth and level as a bowl- 
ing-green. 

After palling through the village of Powlc 9 
which contains feveral handfome houfes, that ex- 
hibit the appearance of retirement, convenience, 
and hofpitality, the road ferpentizes, and, by a 
gentle afcent, gains the fummit of a hill which 
affords an agreeable profpecl; of part of the vale 
of Evejha?n 9 rich in cultivation, and fprinkled 
with orchards. The hop-grounds alio begin to 
make a diftinguifhed appearance; and* the lofty 
E 3 fummits 



54 A JOURNEY 

fumtnits of Malvern, on which the clouds fre- 
quently reded themfelves, and then majeilically 
receded, clofed the view. 

The breadth of the valley towards the north, 
and the very moderate height of the hills, which 
form the horizon on that fide, confpire to ren- 
der Malvern the glory of this part of the coun- 
try ; and fhe foars unrivalled into the clouds. 

An old fong in the quaint ftyle of the fixteenth 
century, has the following verfe : 

" Turn up thine eyes on highe, 

" There fairly ftanding, 
*< See Malvern's higheft hill, 

41 All hills commanding j 
1 They all confefs at will, 
" Their fov'reigne Malvern hill, 
" Le't it be mighty ftill: 

i( O praiie the Lord I-" 

Malvern hills are the termination of an exten- 
five range of eminences, which come from the 
eaft, and the higheft parts are two pretty deep 
points, at the weflern extremity. 

We perceived that we were gradually advanc- 
ing on the verge of the bafis of this mountain, 
foon after we had palled the fifth mile (lone from 
Worcefer } and at length reached Great Mal- 
vern. 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 5$ 

item, a neat village of well-built brick houfes ; 
and containing a fine old church, the tower of 
which is faid to have been erected in the reign 
of the Conqueror. 

The profufion of painted glafs which formerly 
decorated the richly- ftoried windows of this edi« 
ficej is almoft wholly deftroyed ; and the ancient 
monuments are fad falling to decay. This was 
not originally the parochial church, but pur- 
chafed by the inhabitants, at the dhTolution of 
monafteries. 

At the entrance of the church-yard is an an- 
tique gateway, ornamented with feveral fhields, 
on which were formerly coats of arms, now ut j 
terly defaced. 

Among the houfes of Malvern are fome which 
deferve the title of elegant, and many, which, 
by their rural fimplicity* do credit to the tafte 
of the inhabitants. 

Notwithstanding the objections which Mr. Gil* 
pin, and Mr. Tomkins, who has copied him, may 
have made to the effect of white objects in per- 
ipeclive, I infift, that if thjefe gentlemen had 
viewed the pleafing contrafl produced by the 
neat cottages at the foot of Malvern, to the 
neighbouring foil and the contiguous objects* 
E 4 the/ 



56 A JOURNEY 

they would have been inclined to ameliorate, IF 
not to retract, their former opinions. 

At the foot of Malvern we found the Galan* 
thus nivalis, flowering wild; and among the 
rocks the Sedum album of Linn&us. 

While a little refrefhment was preparing for 
us, at the Crown Hotel, a fnug comfortable houfe* 
which itfelf commands a beautiful view, we af- 
cended the hill, and gained the fummit with little 
difficulty \ and that little might have been 
avoided, if we had had humility enough to alk 
for inflru&ions, or fufficient difcernment to have 
noticed a zig-zag path which leads from the gar- 
den of the inn, and by which a horfe might 
eahly afcend. 

The fcenery from the top of Malvern, has fre- 
quently been commented on, and two poems 
have lately made their appearance on the fubjecl. 
After this I ought, perhaps, to content myfelf 
with filently admiring what my pen is io inade- 
quate to defcribe ; and the rather, as the view 
which I had of the country, was obfcured, in eve* 
ry direction, by a cloudy atmofphere. I cannot, 
however, omit to remark, that even the wind- 
ings of the Severn itfelf, and the famed meads 
through which it flows, do not compenfate for 
9 tlie 



INTO SOUTH WALES. tf 

the want of bold and linking fcenery. There 
are no forefts, no lakes, no woodland profpe&Sj 
no rough and boldly-projecting eminences, no 
rocks ; nor that waving line, which beautifies a 
diftant horizon, and like the zone of the fair 
goddefs, adds the delicacy of elegance to the de- 
lights which it enclofes. 

The ground on the fouth fide of Malvern is 
broken by gentle inequalities, and innumerable 
orchards and hop-gardens are interfperfed among 
the riches of Ceres. 

The profpecl in an oppofite direction is more 
crowded, the towns of Tewk&fbury and Evejham^ 
the one diftinguifhed by its church, at a hazy 
diftance, and the other by a bridge, are features 
of importance ; and the eye is involuntarily at- 
tracted to the fpires and buildings of Worcejier, 
which recall the memory of pad events, and 
picture to the imagination thofe great and ferious 
fcenes which have, in fome meafure, rendered it 
claflic ground. 

Malvern hills were part of the ancient forefl 

of that name ; and the flump of a tree, of confi- 

derable fize, is itiil vifible, not far from the very 

fummit. Thus Drayton or Ben John/on^ I forget 

which, fays, 

"Paa 



58 A JOURNEY 

" Pan may go pipe in ban-en Malvern chafe. ** 

There may alfo be traced the courfe of £ 
fmall trench, which was made to divide the fo- 
re ft from the land of the Bifiiop of Hereford, in 
the time of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, 
ion- in-law of King Edward the Firft, to whom 
that monarch had given this domain; which, 
when it thus became the property of a fubjefl:, 
loll its royai appellation of for 'eft and took that 
of Malvern Chafe. 

The air on the fummit of the hill is exceffively 
mild and pleafant ; fo that the fatigue of afcend-r 
ing is almoft immediately cured, by the bracing 
and reftorative coolnefs of the atmofphere. 

The degree of temperature on the top and at 
the foot of this eminence varies confiderably ; and 
they who defcend very rapidly, fometimes feel a 
flight degree of faintnefs not unlike that which 
happens to perfons of delicate habits, on going 
into a crowded room,- or exchanging the freedom 
of breathing in the open air, for the confinement 
and clofenefs of a theatre. 

Thefe hills give birth to two famous fprings, 
which have been much reforted to, in cutaneous 
difeafes. They are remarkably light d.nd pure, 

ffightly 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 59 

Slightly chalybeate, and in their effects gently 
diuretic. 

Although I do not mean to difpute, much 
lefs to deny, the efficacy of thefe waters, I can 
not help thinking that the falubrity of the air has 
often contributed, in no fmall degree, to the re- 
covery of thofe who refort to them. Let not the 
whole of the praife then be given to the Malvern, 
baths. 

On our return to the inn, we were regaled 
with potted lampreys, for which this county has 
been long famous, and for thp enjoyment of 
which our ramble up the hill had provided us 
with an excellent appetite. 

A houfe for the reception of thofe who vifit 
the fprings, has been erected at about the 
diftance of two miles from Great Malvern, near 
the turnpike road, which runs along the foot of 
the hill. 

PafTed the village of Little Malvern, which 
contains nothing remarkable but its old church 
crumbling into decay ; and afcended a fteep hill, 
which brought us to a fort of pafs, through 
which the road leads to Ledbury. 

The furface of the Malvern hills is, in gene- 
ral covered with a foft moffy turf, which feeds 

abundance 



6q a journey 

abundance of fheep, excepting where it is varie- 
gated by patches of fern, or darkened with 
rocky projections : at the eaftern part, however, 
the colour is a bright yellow. 

Arriving at the top of the hill, two eminences 
prefented themfelves on the left, which almofl 
adjoin each other : they are encircled with a 
deep fofle, and denominated Morten Caftle •, pro- 
bably a Britijh camp, but of which no records 
have been preferved. 

We now loft fight of the vale of Eve/ham, 
but were, the next moment, confoled for it, by 
an extenfive opening in an oppofite direction, 
full of orchards* difperfsd over an undulating 
country. 

A pretty houfe at the foot of Malvern com- 
mands a pleafing view to the fouth, and is in it- 
felf, an agreeable object from the road. 

Having defcended into the valley, a retrofpecl: 
of ■ the ground we had paffed, aitorded a full view 
of Morton Caflle (called by the common peo- 
ple Caftle Ditch) and enabled us to diftinguifh 
the double eminence, which is occupied by 
that fortification. The wefternmoft point appears 
like a fort of prstorium, and has been enclofed 
with three 'lines of caftrametaticn, befides the 

deep 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 6"l 

deep fofie which includes it, in common with 
the contiguous eminence. The dimenfions of 
the area are not lefs than forty acres. 

The foil here is a deep clay, but the fertility 
of the meadow land is not very remarkable. I 
thought that it feemed to require a greater de- 
gree of labour and induflry than is beflowed on 
it : the fpontaneous bounty of nature being apt 
to make hufbandmen indolent ; and the advan- 
tages which they derive from their orchards ren- 
dering them, in fome degree, negligent of agri- 
cultural improvements : but a worthy clergy-? 
man, who was for many years a refident in this 
part of the country, afTures me, that the abun- 
dance of fprings which arife on the fouth fide of 
Malvern, occafions the ruggednefs of the mea- 
dows below ; and that the farmers are not to be 
blamed for the unfavourable appearance of their 
grounds. 

The lofty fpire of Ledbury church burft on the 
fight between two fteep flopes, one covered with 
wood, the other planted with orchards ; and we 
found ourfelves almoft immediately in the town. 



(>Z A JOURNEY 



CHAP. VII. 

Ledhury In Hereford/hire. — Firxons.™- Stoke Court. — Morde- 
ford.—Fbwnhope. — Profpetls.—Man of Rofs.—The Wye. 
- — Hljlory of the Dragon of Mordeford—and of other Dra« 
gons. — River Lug. 

Ledbury Is a very ancient place, and many of 
the old wooden houfes remain, with (lories pro- 
jecting over each other into the ftreet. 

The town confifts of one fpacious ftreet, and 
feveral narrow lanes iffuing from it. The road 
from Worcejlerjhire to Rofs, is here bifected by 
that from Gloucefter to Oxford. 

The church bears venerable marks of antiquity, 
though it has undergone many alterations at dif- 
ferent periods. 

The fpire, which is about fixty feet in heigh t, 
ftands on a tower almoft contiguous, but not ad- 
jacent, to the north end of the tranfept, and 
is evidently more modern than the reft of the 
building. 

I am induced to believe that the fouth and 
north aifles, with an additioa to the north M% 

like 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 63 

Sike the end of a tranfept, have been added to 
the firft building, which I take to be the middle, 
or body of the church. 

The ftyle of the ancient building is clearly 
Saxon, and a very handfome circular arched 
door way remains at the weft end, between two 
fmall turrets. 

The window over this entrance has been mo- 
dernized, to correfpond with thofe at the end of 
the aifles, which, as well as the fide windows, are 
gothic. The tracery of the windows in the north 
crofs aifie is remarkably beautiful. 

There are fome fragments of painted glafs re- 
maining, both in figures and coat armour. 

The living is a vicarage, and of considerable 
value. 

Among the " frail memorials" of the departed 
I read one which affords a molt exemplary leffon 
to the flattering hopes and expectations of pa- 
rents. It is a tomb-ftone infcribed with the names 
of twelve children of Mr. Thomas Freeham, and 
Hannah his wife, who all died between Decern* 
her 1759, and March 1775. One of them at- 
tained his twelfth year, but no other reached the 
fourth. 

Leaving 



64 A JOURNEY 

Leaving Ledbury, the road foon divides, one 
trad going to Bromyard and Leominfter, the left 
to Hereford, through a well wooded country 
abounding with orchards. 

A winding road brought us to Firzons, a large 
houfe on the right, and we foon afterwards paffed 
an old manfion in the Elizabethan tafte, with a 
garden in front, moated round ; and an avenue 
of Scotch firs. 

The Cottefwold Hills appeared on the left ; 
Malvern was behind us ; and we now entered a 
narrow valley, with a wood on one fide ; and the 
oppofite eminence covered with hop grounds, 
orchards, and plantations. Winding to the right, 
an extenfive opening affords a view of feveral 
parifh churches, with a pleafing difplay of popu- 
lous and fertile country. 

Paffed the village of Tarrington, which brought 
us to Stoke Courts the feat of Mr. Foley, an old 
fafhioned fquare building, with two fpacious 
wings. It ftands on a kind of terrace, in a well 
wooded park flocked with deer. 

The church is almoft contiguous ; it is fmall, 
and perhaps neat, but having a high flender fpire, 
and a plain parapet of white flone, ail the efforts 
which have been made to render it pifturefque, 

by 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 65 

by encouraging the growth of ivy at its fides, and 
planting a fhrubbery around it, will be ineffectual. 

The approach to the park, from Ledbury, is by 
a neat bricked lodge, the other entrance, through 
an iron gate clofe to an elegant flone building fur- 
mounted with a dome. 

The road bifurcates, and both tracts lead to 
Hereford, but there being no index pod the tra- 
veller is naturally at a lofs which line he is to 
purfue. We, by accident, took the left, which 
brought us to Mr. Hereford 9 s ancient feat — the 
refidence of the fame family from the time of 
King Edward the third. 

The prefent poffeifor has erected a modern, 
houfe nearer, the road than the old manfion, 
which is, however, preferved with great care; 
and time, which daily increafes its venerable ap- 
pearance, contributes likewife to beautify its fitu- 
ation, by giving an awful folemnity to the wood 
which inclofes it. 

The ancient furniture is preferved with be- 
coming care,— and the manfion is one of thofe 
intereft ing fpecimens of old Engiifh grandeur 

" Where (till, with heraldry's rich hues imprefs'd 
<s On the dim window, glows the pi&uv'd creft." 

F At 



66 A JOURNEY 

At the village of Mordeford we made a flight 
deviation from the direct road to Hereford, to 
view a romantic fpot about two miles diflant. 

The road winds at the foot of a fine eminence 
covered with wood, which rifes with great ma- 
jefty from the Wye, whofe beautiful meanders and 
well cultivated banks are feen from it to much 
advantage. 

We arrived at Mr. Purchases brewery, the 
fpot to which we had been directed.* It is built 
on the eaft fide of the Wye, and fheltered by a 
vafl rock which rifes boldly behind it. 

Mr. Purchas has cut Heps up the hill, planted 
it with juniper bumes, and other fhrubs, thrown 
a fcreen of firs along a field on the right, and 
built a cancellated profpeft houfe on the brow of 
the deep. Our requeft to be permitted to ex- 
amine this agreeable place was readily granted j 
and the proprietor himfelf conducted us through 
every part of the premifes. 

From the fummit is a mod interefting view of 
a rich and highly cultivated country. 

The city of Hereford, with its venerable cathe- 
dral and proud fpires, in a valley on the right j 
the devious courfe of the Wye, which glides at 
ihe foot of the hill on which we flood, and bends 

with 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 6j 

with inimitable grace among the meadows ; the 
Ham, an ancient manfion belonging to the Duke 
of Norfolk , on the oppofite fide ; with the little 
village of Foionhope, or Fan-hope, on the left ; 
and the fpire of Rofs Church peeping over a dif- 
tant wood. 

There dwelt the venerable man whofe virtuous 
name, like the pure ftream of Wye which pafled 
his " modeft manfion", fhall continue to be the 
pride and glory of his country, and devolve to 
lateft ages with unfullied luftre, when the me- 
mory of the great, and the atchievements of the 
mighty fhall have been long forgotten : 

" For when the boaflful labours of the fage, 

" The conq'ror's fpoils, the monuments of ago* 

" And all the vanities of lift's brief day, 

" Oblivion's hurrying wing mail fweep away, 

n The works by charity and mercy done, 

" High o'er the wreck of time, mail live alone, 

" Immortal as the heav'ns, and beauteous bloom 

•' To other worlds, and realms beyond the tomb." 

The poor, to whom Mr. Kyrle was the gene- 
rous benefactor, the conflant friend, the kind 
inftructor, fhall blefs him in fucceeding genera- 
tions ; and pofterity fnall recognize in the cha- 
racter of " the Man of Ro/s 9 " 9 the moil brilliant 
V 2 example 



6$ ' A JOURNEY 

example of untainted worth, which the frailty of 
human nature is capable of affording. 

Mr. Pope fays, 

" But all our praifes, why fhould Lords engrofs? 

" Rife, honed mufe! and fmg the Man of Rofs : 

u Pleas'd Vaga echoes through her winding bounds, 

u And rapid Severn hoarfe applaufe refounds. 

a Who hung v 1 , ith woods yon mountains fultry brow ? 

" From the dry rock, who bade the waters flow? 

€ < Not to the fkies in ufelefs columns toft, 

" Or in proud falls magnificently loft ; 

" But clear and artlefs, pouring through the plain 

" Health to the fick, and folace to the fvvain. 

€< Whofe caufeway parts the vale with fhady rows ? 

" Whofe feats the weary traveller repofe ? 

* { Who taught that heav'n directed fpire to rife : 

*' The Man of Rofs, each lifping babe replies ! 

" Behold the market place with poor o'erfpread, 

" The Man of Rofs divides the weekly bread ! 

" He feeds yon alms-houfe, neat, but void of ftate, 

<« Where age and want fit fmiling at the gate : 

" Him, portion'd maids, apprenticed orphans bleft, 

" The young who labour, and the old who reft. 

4< Is any fick ? the Man of Rofs relieves, 
" Prefcribes, attends, the med'cine makes and gives. 
** Is there a variance ? enter but the door, 
U Balk'd are the courts, and conceit is no more. 

*' Defpairing quacks/ with curfes fled the place, 

is And vile attorneys, now a ufelefs race." 

6 Thrice happy man ! enabled to purfue 

V* What all fo wi(h, but want the pow'r to do. 

«Oh! 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 69 

' Oh ! fay what fums that generous hand fupply ? 
* What mines, to fwell that boundlefs charity ? ' 
w Of debts and taxes, wife, and children clear, 

" This man pofTeft -five hundred pounds a year. 

" Blufh grandeur, blufh! proud courts withdraw your blaze, 
lc Ye little ftars ! hide your diminifhed rays." 

And Goldfmith, 

" Unfkilful he to fawn, or feek for pow'r, 1 

" By doctrines fafhion'd to the varying hour; 

" Far other aims his heart had learn'd to prize, 

" More bent to raife the wretched, than to rife. 

" His houfe was known to all the vagrant train, 

" He chid their wand'rings, but reliev'd their pain. 

" The long remember' d beggar was his gueft, 

" Whofe beard defcending, fwept his aged breafl ; 

" The rnin'd fpendthrift; now no longer proud, 

" Claim'd kindred here, and had his claim allow'd. 

" The broken foldier, kindly bade to flay, 

•' Sate by his fire, and talk'd the night away ; 

M Wept o'er his wounds, or tales of forrow done, 

" Shoulder'd his crutch, and lhew'd how fields were won. \ 

tc Pleas'd with his guefts, the good man learn'd to glow, 

" And quite forgot their vices, in their woe. 

w Carelefs their merits or their faults to fcan, 

M His pity gave, e'er charity began. 

" Thus to relieve the wretched was his pride, 
" And ev'n his failings lean'd to virtue's fide : 
" But in his duty, prompt at ev'ry call, 
*' He watch'd and wept, he pray'd and felt for all. 
" And as a bird each fond endearment tries, 
" To tempt its new fledged offspring to the fkies, 
" He tried each art, reprov'd each dull delay, 
<* Allur'd to brighter worlds, and led the way." 

F 3 The 



^O A JOURNEY 

The courfe of the Wye may be traced for 
fome miles ; and where it hides itfelf, either by 
the bendings of its current, or among the woods 
which decorate its banks, it is only to deceive the 
eye for a moment, and that it may re-appear in, 
perhaps, a different direction, or with a broader 
ftream, among the meadows. 

This rich and luxuriant valley is bounded on 
the right by the hills of Shropjhire ; in front by 
thofe of Radnor •, Brecon, and Monmouth j and, 
on the left, by thofe of Qhucejier/hire, 

Mr. Purchas conducted us through his brew- 
ery, and mewed us vaft repofitories of wine \ ac- 
companying thefe attentions with an air of fa 
great good humour, and fuch a preffing invita- 
tion to partake of refrefhment, that we took 
leave of this hofpitable gentleman with regret. 

We did not leave the neighbourhood, however, 
without frequently doing honour to the contents, 
of his immenfe cellar, which is very defervedly 
celebrated throughout the whole country. 

Wifhing to embrace this opportunity of feeing 
the Duke of Norfolk's houfe at Ham, we were 
dire&ed to a ferry, at which a boat is kept for 
the purpofe of conducting paffengers oyer the 
Wye, but the wind fruftrated all our efforts to, 

make 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 7 1 

make ourfelves heard by the boatman, and we 
were therefore conftrained to return by the fame 
road to Mordeford. 

The church belonging to this village (lands 
near the bank of the river Lug, and the eaft 
end is decorated with a painting of a large 
green dragon. 

An ornament fo unufual, and fo feemingly 
unconnected with the nature and defign of a 
place of worfhip, naturally excited our curiofity ; 
which, after fome enquiries, was gratified by the 
following (lory. 

At a remote period, very far beyond the me- 
mory of man, and very obfeurely afcertained 
by tradition, there lived in the woody fteep not 
far from Mordeford, a monftrous ferpent, with 
prodigious wings, which committed various and 
alarming depredations among the cattle, and even 
the inhabitants of the neighbourhood. The 
monfter was wont to refort to a particular fpot, 
for the purpofe of allaying his thirft, and this 
was at the confluence of the Wye and the Lug. 
Many and great were the rewards which the good 
people of Mordeford offered to any one who 
fhould deftroy the dragon ; but, it feems, that 
no man was found of fufficient courage to en- 
F 4 gage 



J2 A JOtTRNEY 

gage in fo perilous an adventure. At length, a 
malefactor, who had been condemned to die, 
undertook to kill the ferpent, and relieve the 
Mordefordians from their daily and nightly fears; 
on condition of receiving his pardon, as the re" 
ward of his value and prowefs. The condition 
being accordingly granted, the hero concealed 
himfeif in a barrel at the water's edge, and lay 
in ambuih for his dreadful foe. The wiles of 
the ferpent being thus overcome, when he came 
to drink, as ufual, the contefl began, and laded 
for a confiderable time, but at length terminated 
fatally to both parties;— the monfter being (lain 
outright, by fair fighting, and the man poifoned 
by the dragon's breath. 

This ftory is told with great ferioufnefs, and 
confidently believed, in all its particulars, by 
hundreds, and perhaps by thoufands of perfons, 
whofe fathers and grandfathers have handed it 
down to them, without ever attempting to divefl 
it of the abfurdities which oppofe its credibility. 

They further tell you that the figure on the 
wall of the church reprefents the exa£t fize of the 
dragon, which mufl have been,- at leaft, twelve 



feet long. 



Its 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 73 

Its head is depi&ed of a very large Tize, with 
a terrible afpect, a red mouth, and a forked 
tongue. The wings are elevated and expanded, 
and it is web footed. 

We obferved to the perfons who related this 
curious hiftory that it was extraordinary the na- 
ture of the weapons which the man ufed for the 
deftrudlion of the monfter ihould be unknown, 
and that it was rather an impolitic contrivance 
for the engagement to be left to the precarious 
iiTue of fingle combat, when tht poffe commltaim 
might have been eafily aflembled to fubdue ta 
dreadful a peft. But traditionay legends of this 
nature will not admit of much reafoning, nor 
ftand the teft of minute inveftigation. 

The ridiculous improbabilities with which they 
are interwoven render it very difficult, and often 
impomble, to obtain any knowledge of the real 
fact on which they were originally founded. 

There is no doubt that all long edablifhed cuf- 
toms, and old legends, refer to fome real event, 
however that event may be clouded with igno- 
rance, or darkened by fuperftition ; and it is 
poflible that there may have been a monftrous 
variety of the ferpent fpecies among the thick 
woods before mentioned, — but whether it was 

ia 



74 A JOURNEY 

in reality fo terrible, and in appearance fo unii* 
fual, as it is reprefented, can not be afcertained 
any more than the truth of the reft of the ftory 
can be proved. 

A trivial variation was made by a gentleman 
of Hereford, in defer ibing the dragon of M or de- 
ford, namely, that it was an amphibious animal, 
left on the banks of the Lug, after a confider* 
able flood : and indeed if it was really a fnake, and 
of ihejtze Unfilled upon, it might well have been 
conceived fufficiently frightful without the forked 
tongue, webbed feet, and expanfive wings, 
with which terror and credulity have aggravated 
the picture. 

The memorial of another dragon is prefented 
in the Palatinate of Durham ; the reprefentative 
of Sir Edward Blacken being obliged to render 
fervice to the bilhop, at his firft coming into the 
county, by prefenting to his lordmip a faulchion 
with which the anceftor of that family flew cc a 
< c monftrous reptile, a dragon, a worm, or a fly* 
" ing ferpent $" in memory of which ad, the 
faulchion thus prefented fecures the poffeflion of 
a large eftate held by this remarkable tenure, 

Nor is this the only legend of a fimilar kind ; 
for about the year 1614, a difcourfe was pub- 
limed 



INTO SOUTH WALES. J$ 

limed, relating to C( a ftrange monftrous ferpent 
" or dragon (then) living in a wood, called St. 
" Leonard's Foreft, near HorJJjam, in Sitflex" 
which was defer ibed to have been more than nine 
feet long, with balls at its fides, like foot-balls, 
which it was fuppofed would turn to wings. 
Something of this nature is alfo mentioned as 
having been feen on Leaden Heath, in Effex. 
But the bed authenticated tale of this kind, which 
I have happened to meet with, is preferved by 
Sir Robert Atkyns, and copied in Rudder's Hif- 
tory of Gloucefterjhire, in the following words : 

" In the parifli of Deerhurft, near Teivkef. 
** bury, a ferpent of a prodigious bignefs was a 
* great grievance to all the country, by poifoning 
" the inhabitants, and killing their cattle. The 
" inhabitants petitioned the king, and a procla- 
" mation was iffued out, that whofoever mould 
" kill the ferpent, mould enjoy an eftate in the 
<c parifh, which then belonged to the crown. 
cc One John Smith, a labourer, engaged in the 
" enterprize. He put a quantity of milk in a 
" place to which the ferpent reforted, who 
" g or g e d tne whole, agreeable to expectation, 
? c and lay down to ileep in the fun, with his 
V fcales ruffled up. Seeing him in that fituation, 

Smith 



j6 A JOURNEY 

" Smith advanced, and ftriking between the 
* 6 fcales with his axe, took off his head. The 
" Smiths enjoyed the eftate when Sir Robert At- 
^ kyns compiled this account, and Mr. Lane, 
* c who married a widow of that family, had then 
" the axe in his pofleffion." 

CrolTed the Lug by a long and narrow bridge, 
under which that river flows with great rapidity. 
The meadows on each fide are very flat, and of- 
ten under water, as is alfo the road, for more 
than two miles. This has occafioned a vaft num- 
ber of graduated pods, four feet high, to be 
placed by the way-fide, which ferve at once to 
inform the curious of the depth of the water in 
flood-time, and to caution the timid againfl the 
dangers they are likely to meet with. 

About half a mile from Hereford is a public- 
houfe, with a fign fo lingular in its appearance, ! 
that it would be difficult to underftand how it 
could be denominated, if an infcription had not 
been affixed, fignifying that " this is the real 
$' blade bone of a whale," 

We now palled the navigation of the Wye, and 
■ afcending a gentle eminence approached the en- 
trance of the city of Hereford* 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 7? 



CHAP. VIII. 

Hereford. — Cathedral — Monuments of the old Prelates. — Sate 
of the Cajlk. 

The approach to Hereford does not infpire a 
traveller with any very high idea of its confe- 
quence, cleanlinefs, or refpectability ; the en- 
trance being through a ftreet of wretched and 
half-falling huts, and between a double row of 
dunghills placed at their doors. As the road, 
though not very good, was far from being miry, 
I am {till at a lofs to conceive by what means fuch 
immenfe quantities of mud, dirt, and manure can 
be collected : they, however, exhibit a mod An- 
gularly difgufting appearance, and are a difgrace 
to the police of the town. 

We pafled the Infirmary, which is a fmall neat 
building, on the left ; a fchool, and an alms- 
houfe. 

Hereford is commodioufly paved, and in fome 
parts well built : there are, however, many old 
houfes in a ftate of mouldering decay. 

5 The 



78 A JOURNEY 

The two parifh churches have lofty fpifes* 
which have a good effect ; but the lofs of the 
fpire of the Cathedral is a confiderable difadvan* 
tage in the perfpe&ive, and renders that building 
very oppreflive and heavy. 

The Cathedral has been recently put in com- 
plete repair, and the weft end rebuilt : the mo- 
dern decorations are all in a chafte ftyle of neat- 
nefs and fimplicity, which well agrees with the 
original tafle of the building. 

This church is, perhaps, the mod complete 
fpecimen of Saxon architecture in the kingdom, 
and the effecl produced in the mind, on viewing 
fuch a combination of folidity, neatnefs, and 
grandeur, is difficult to be defcribed. 

The nave is fupported by maflive pillars, and 
there is nothing fine nor tawdry ; no ufelefs paint- 
ing, no unbecoming glare of colouring about the 
church, to offend the eye. * 

The choir is fmall, but accurately neat ; and 
although, if the flails and pulpit had been of 
any other colour than white, a better effect would 
have been produced; yet there are fo many 
things to praife and to admire, that this error 
may be overlooked. 

5 The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 79 

The bilhop's throne, which, as ufual, termi- 
nates the flails at the eaft end of the fouth fide, 
is oppofite the pulpit, which is an ugly looking 
thing, like a tub, with an inverted punch bowl 
fufpended over it, by way of founding board. 

An elegant organ (lands over the entrance to 
the choir. 

Near the fouth wall of the church lies the effi- 
gy, in alabafter, of Sir Richard Pembrige, or 
Pembrigge, who was the fifty -third knight of the 
mod noble order of the garter ; and died in 1375. 

The right leg of the figure having been broken 
off, its place is fuppliedwith one of wood, on which 
the graver has abfurdly placed a fecond garter, 
to make it correfpond with the left. 

The fide aifles are full of monuments of the an- 
cient prelates, whofe figures are placed in niches 
under a low arch, infcribed with their names, 
and diflinguifhed by coats of arms, and the date 
of the year in which they died. 

" iDoimnu* 3Ro6ettu0 ht llctBarkiga 1095. 
" Domimtg 45o&frit)u£ tit Clpbz 1119. 
" iDommug CDiiIiehmig De Wlm 1119. 
" 2Dominu0 IRchmtsg fce £5*time 1148. 
u JDomtmig IRobertug tie tpaltm 1167. 



Bo A JOURNEY 

" Dumhutg Stobcrti!* iFfdiot n36. 
" JDomimig l9ug.& tie Spapenore 1219, 
" IDmtttttitg %ju$&Mffi$ &mltm\ 1369. 
<c JD&mimig Carols HBootfi 1539. 

Thefe, and many other bifhops of Hereford are 
buried here : and Dean Tytler, under a hand - 
fome monument, in the fouth tranfept. 

There is a very old tomb with two painted 
figures ; but among all the funeral relics, a mo ft 
exquifitely fimfhed monument in memory of the 
Doddington family, deferves particular notice. 

" On the marble tomb, 



" The well-dlffembled mourner {looping {lands, 
* c For ever filent. and for ever fad !" 



It is faid, that Robert de Lothdringa, before- 
mentioned, was the founder of the prefent 
church, which, according to this account, mud 
have been erected in the days of William Rufus, 
unlefs the dates affixed to the monuments relate 
to the confecration, inllead of the deceafe of the 
bifhops ; and then it might be, as fome authors 
aifert, in the reign of Henry the firru It has, 
however, undergone many alterations, and fuf- 

fered 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 8 1 

fered confiderably from the incurfions of the 
Welch. 

The cathedral is enclofed by refpeclable, ra- 
ther than elegant buildings. The bifhop's palace 
adjoins the cloifters on the fouth-wefl fide ; and 
not far from it is a building ftill called " the 
" College," where fome of the prebendaries re- 
fide. 

In the north-weft part of the city, almoft con- 
tiguous to the road leading to LeomlnJler y Hands 
the prifon, a large building, lately erected : and 
near it is an hofpital for poor and infirm perfons, 
which was founded by Sir Thomas Coningsby, on 
the fcite of a monaftery of Black Friars, part of 
whofe ruins are ftill remaining ; particularly an 
elegant ftone pulpit, or crofs, pi&urefquely fur- 
rounded with fhrubs. 

It feems to have been the cuftom to deliver 
fermons from an open pulpit, in the fummer, to 
the monks, who ranged themfelves under the 
cloifters, which enclofed the court where the 
pulpit flood. 

Another fpecimen of the fame fort, is to be 
feen at Shrew/bury, called St. Wine/red's pulpit* 

The market houfe at Hereford is an old build- 
ing, fupported by pillars, in which the affizes are 
G held : 



$2 A JOURNEY 

held: and as the judge's feat is clofe to the 
window at the fouth end, he is feen by every 
perfon who pafles along the ftreet, fo that 
as Mr. Hutchinfon obferves, refpectir/g the Hall 
at Appleby, in Weftmor -eland r , the magiftrates 
may be properly faid to adminifter juftice in the 
forum. 

All-Saints church, at the end of Broad ftreer, 
is decorated with a high fpire, but contains 
nothing very worthy of notice, excepting the pul- 
pit, which is carved all over, and has the fol- 
lowing infcription on the founding board ; 

€€ HOW BLESSED ARE THE FEET OF THEM THAT 
• " BRING GLAD TIDINGS OF PEACE. Roy J" 

Which being put up in an age fo fruitful in pun 
and quibble as the reign of King James, may 
afford matter of furprife that it was not infcribed 
on the footfiooL 

Hereford is not a populous town ; there is no 
manufactory yet eftablimed here; the inhabi- 
tants are confequently poor and idle : they are 
faid to be proud too ; and it is certain, that 
pride often accompanies idlenefs and cathedral 
churches, 

Eaftward 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 8$ 

Eaftward of the city is a public walk, called 
" Cattle Green," where formerly flood a ftrong 
fortification, which was not only tenable, but 
important, in the time of Cromwell. 

No veflige of the cattle remains, befides afmall 
building at the fouth-weft corner, which is fal- 
ling into ruin. 

Near it, a kind of fummer pavillion has been 
erected for the accommodation of thofe who fre- 
quent the bowling-green, which occupies the cen- 
tre of the field, now changed to a place of eafe 
and recreation, from a fcene of warfare, carnage, 
and confufion. 

A terrace walk is conducted round the whole, 
which commands a varied and agreeable view of 
a richly-wooded valley, and the meanders of the 
charming Wye y which paiTes clofe to it on the 
fouth. 

At the angle of the terrace, which overlooks 
the courfe of the river, are placed five pieces of 
cannon, one of them of confiderable calibre, a 
fix and thirty pounder, I believe; but they are, 
at prefent, perfectly harmlefs, having all been 
difmounted, and fixed horizontally in the 
ground. 

G2 On 



84 A JOURNEY 

On the right is an old bridge over the Wye ; 
and, contrary to the ufual mode of building, 
the central arch is the fmalleft ; but, perhaps 
modern reparations may have occasioned it to 
be fo. 



1 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 85 



CHAP. IX. 

tVhite-Crofs. — Foxley.— Lady-lift. — Value of Cyder. — Lyons* 
Hall. — Scenery on approaching the Principality. — Eywood.— 
Reception at Prejleign» 

Leaving Hereford by a fine broad road, which 
runs in a direct line, towards Hay, in Breck- 
nockjhire, we obferved, that the appearance of 
the orchards, hitherto fo abundantly fcattered on 
all fides, began to be lefs frequent: but the 
country is every where cultivated > and the diftant 
hills are covered with wood, 

A mile from Hereford is White-Croft the bafis 
of a ftone column, erected on feven fteps, and 
ornamented with fhields charged with coat ar- 
mour. This is faid to be the fpot on which ex- 
changes were made between the inhabitants of 
Hereford and the neighbouring villages, at a time 
when the plague ranged in the city, and prevented 
the markets from being held there. 

The crofs was fet up by Charlton, bifliop of 
Hereford, about the year 1345. 

&3 Turning 



86 A JOURNEY 

Turning to the right, we foon approached thofe 
fine bold hills, which we had contemplated with 
fo much pleafure from Fownhope, as the boun- 
daries of the weftern profpecl:. 

The road winds to the left, into a fmall valley, 
which terminates with an amphitheatre of wood, 
and a village church. 

Rode through two fmall villages, in the firfl 
of which is an ancient crofs, with a fun-dial on 
the top. 

Fox ley is a handfome houfe, furrounded by 
pleafant gardens, well planted ; fituated amidft 
a variety of delightful fcenery : the neighbouring 
eminences being clothed with wood, and the fields 
covered with verdure. 

Lady -lift ^ a beautiful eminence not far diftant, 
is an agreeable object, for feveral miles. It is a 
lofty promontory, wrapped to its fummit in a 
mantle of wood, and crowned with a tuft of fir 
trees. 

The farther we travelled, the fewer orchards 
were to be feen ; and the rural fimplicity of the 
inhabitants was more and more amufing. Here, 
too, the dialed and pronunciation of the peafan- 
try informed us, that we approached the princi- 
pality of Wales* 

We 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 87 

We remarked, that the bloated countenances 
of the farmers, fhewed how well they knew the 
virtues of their pippin juice ; and that they do 
not fufFer all of it to be carried out of their own 
country. 

I made it a rule to drink nothing but cyder 
during this part of our journey, which I found 
was nst taken at all amifs ; for the Hereford/hire 
men think very highly of the produces of their 
own county: — indeed, who does not? 

One day, happening to obferve* that the 
Welch brewed excellent ale, and, in general, ap- 
peared fond of it : "yes,"faid a Hereford/hire far- 
mer, " and fo they ought ; for they have nothing 
" elfe : I mean neither cyder nor perry" 

The liquors are indeed moft excellent, and 
Phillips has truly obferved* 

" To the utmofl bounds of this 
" Wide univerfe, Silurian cyder borne, 
«' Shall pleafe all tafles, and triumph o'er the vine." 

The road to Prejleign affords, in many places, 

very intending profpefts. The black mountains 

ftretch out their dreary ridge on the left, and lefs 

rugged, though boldly-rifing eminences bound 

G4 the 



8S A JOURNEY 

the weftern horizon, in a manner at once grand 
and beautiful. 

Some of thefe hills are covered with trees, 
others fmooth with verdure ; but none exhibit 
thajt difmal fterility, which almoil always occa- 
fions penlive and melancholy ideas. The ap- 
pearance of trees and herbage is always intereft- 
ing, although it is not to be fuppofed, that every 
fuperficial obferver regards them with the philo- 
fophic eye of Sir John Pringle. " From the oak 
*? of the foreft, to the grafs of the field, every 
" individual plant is ferviceable to mankind ; if 
" not always diftinguifhed by fome private vir- 
iC tue, yet making a part of the whole, which 
" cleanfes and purifies our atrnofphere. In this 
" the fragrant rofe, and deadly nightfhade co-ope- 
" rate : nor is the herbage, nor the woods, flou- 
K rifhing in the moil remote and unpeopled 
" regions, unprofitable to us, nor we to them j 
" confidering how conftantly the winds convey 
Eg to them a vitiated air, for our relief, and their 
" nouriihment." 

After fome time we reached the village of Ly* 

on* s Hall ^ in which are the fmall remains of an 

ancient caftle, fituated. on an eminence clofe to 

the church. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 89 

The road ufualiy travelled from Hereford to 
Prefteign, paifes through the town of Kyneton or 
Kington ; but in order to fhorten our journey* 
•we turned to the right, by direction of the vil- 
lagers at Lyon's Half, and defcended through 
clofe and miry lanes for two miles, into a coun- 
try full of fprings and marfhy ground. 

This road, after many turnings, brought us 
to an avenue, which leads to Eywood, the feat 
of the Earl of Oxford and Earl Mortimer. We 
afterwards paffed the extenfive encampment, 
called Wabley, or Weobley ditches, and ( alfo £j- 
ivood warren, fituated on a commanding emi- 
nence, and entered the principality, of which 
Prejleign is the frontier town, and, indeed, by 
the Welch fcarcely admitted to belong to it, al- 
though it is the county town of Radnor/hire. 

Prefieign is a neat little place, ftanding in a 
valley, wafhed by a rapid and clear fcream, which 
could not but attract my notice, as feemingly 
characteristic of the difpofition of the people into 
whofe territory we were entering. 

The Welch, bold ; free, quick, and ardent, are 
a brave, generous, and hofpitable people : prone 
to anger ; but though vehement in their animo- 
fities, neither malicious nor implacable. 

The 



gc* a jotfRNfcy 

The commonalty dill preferve the chara&er of 
our Britijh anceftors, " robuft and hardy ; their 
" nerves flrung by the energy of toil, and their 
* c blood purified by fimplicity of diet ;" and, as 
Diodorus Siculus obferved, " They are fimple in 
cc their manners and equally void of cunning and 
*• wickednefs.'* 

The weather, for the month of April, was un- 
ufually cold ; and the lowering clouds and hol- 
low wind, which refembled the difmal decline of 
the year, gave me no very fair profpect of feeing 
this part of the country to advantage : but ftiil 
I entered upon it with a favourable opinion, 
which arofe from the fpecimen we received from 
the firft Cambrian we faw, of that generous hof- 
pitality by which it has been for ages, and flill 
continues to be, fo honourably diftinguifhed. 

Arrived at Prejieign ; the civil face of our land- 
lady, at the Radnor/hire Arms, and the attentions 
which we met with, occasioned us to draw compa- 
rifons between the civilities we experienced here, 
and the behaviour of the inn-keepers in England* 
highly difadvantageous to our own country-men. 

My arrival was foon announced to the family 
of an old and valuable acquaintance, from whom 
we received the politeft invitation to his houfe I 
and were received therein the moft flattering and 
hofpitable manner. 



JKTO SOUTH WALES. 9 1 



CHAP. X. 

Prejleign . — Church. — Anecdote. — Warden- WaVus. — Weobly 
Camp. — ProfpeBs. — Emigration of the Welch Peafantry* 

A small bridge over the river Lug, clofe to 
the town of Prejleign, conne&s the counties of 
Hereford and Radnor, and joins the kingdom of 
England to the dominion of Wales. 

About a mile from this bridge is a large old 
manfion, built on an elevated bank, and called 
Stapleton Caftle ; which commands a fine view 
of the vale of Radnor, and the hills that bound 
it, which are either feathered with wood, or dot- 
ted with fheep. 

The parifh church of Prejleign contains a few 
monuments and tablets infcribed with the names 
of Owen, Price, and Davies : and there is an al- 
tar-piece of tapeftry, extremely well wrought, 
and in high prefervation, reprefenting ChriJPs 
triumphal entry into Jerufalem. Above it, is in- 
fcribed, 

" R. OWEN DE BRAMTON PARVA, IN HAC PAROCHIA. 
" A.D. 1737." 

The 



92 A JOURNEY 

The walls of this edifice are embellifhed with 
feveral texts of fcripture ; and with the figures of 
Mofes and Aaron, and of Time and Death. 

Time has his fcythe on his moulder, and ba- 
lances an hour glafs on his head. Death is re- 
prefented by a fkeleton (landing on a coffin, with 
a fpade in his hand. 

Thefe figures are tolerably well executed, par- 
ticularly that of Time, who feems to fuftain the 
hour-glafs with fome difficulty, as if afraid of let- 
ting it fall. 

After the Reformation, when the Rood-loft 
was taken down, and images were removed from 
churches, fome paffages from fcripture began to 
be infcribed on the walls ; and thefe have been 
from time to time renewed, in fome few churches: 
but wherever they do remain, the paffages firft 
felecled are flill retained, without alteration. 

The exterior of the church has nothing about 
it very ancient, very curious, or very attractive. 

We walked in the church-yard, where, in 
their unadorned turfy bed, 

" The rude forefathers of the hamlet fleep :" 

Among them lies poor Tom Rogers, a fifer in 
the Radnor/hire militia, who was found dead in 
the fnow laft winter. 

8 Icaft 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 93 

I caft a farewell look on his grave, remem* 
bered the lively notes of his fife, contrafted with 
the weather-beaten afpeft of the old foldier j and 
gave him a figh of regret. 

The laft time I faw poor To?n, he was engaged 
in a mufical competition with the fifers of feveral 
other regiments, in which he gained the prize : 
for, as a fifer, he was unrivalled. May Heaven 
be the prize he now enjoys,— the reward of his 
honed fidelity. 

There was fomething lingular in this man's 
fate. 

The poor fellow, after more than fifty years 
fpent in the fervice, had obtained his difcharge, 
with the benefit of a Chelfea penfion : he was 
journeying toward his native hills, and within 
fight of the town of Prefteign, not half a mile 
from his home ; he perifhed in the fnow ! 

The morning had feen him, blyth as the lark 
of fummer ; it was greeted with the melody of 
his pipe :— the evening clofed upon him, a bleak 
^nd ftiffened corpfe. 

■• In vain for him th* officious wife prepares 
" The fire bright blazing, and the veftment warm j 
" In vain his little children, peeping out 
f ' Into the mingling ftorm 3 demand their fire, 

«' With 



94 A JOURNEY 

ft With tears of artlefs innocence. Alas ! 

r< Nor wife, nor children more, mall he behold,* 

*' Nor friends nor facred home. On ev'ry nerve 

<; The deadly winter feizes ; fhuts up fenfe ; 

** And o'er his inmoft vitals creeping cold, 

•* Lays him along the fnows, a ftiffen'd corfe, 

* l Stretch'd out, and bleaching in the northern olaA.'* 

Poor Tom had once fcraped together a few 
fhillings — the ceconomy of a foldier ! and in or- 
der to do fo, had nearly ftarved himfelf : he fell 
fick, his life was defpaired of: — the furgeon told 

D s, the mofl: generous hearted officer in the 

fervice, "poor Tom Rogers is dying :" — the nurfe 

went further j " he is dead," faid fhe. D s 

gave a laft glance at the honeft fifer, and thought 
it poffible that the thread of life might yet be 
fpliced ; he thought that a latent fpark might 
yet exift, and knowing, that if he was dead, the 
remedy he was about to try, could do no mif- 
chief, forced fome brandy down his throat. He 
recovered, and lived to thank his benefactor. 
« c God blefs your honour," faid he " and I 
<c hope if ever I die again, it will be by your ho- 
" nour's fide, and that you will not let me 
* c be buried without trying another drop of 
«* brandy" 

Three 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 95 

Three years rolled away ; the generous D— s 
left the regiment, went to refide at Pre/leign, and 
was, accidentally, one of the fir ft fpeclators of 
the poor man's fate : but life was now complete- 
ly extinguifhed, and every effort to recover him 
was ineffeclual. 

Farewell honeft foldier 1 may the green turf 
lie lightly on thy head ! 

On the weft fide of the town is a beautiful lh> 
tie eminence (formerly the fcite of a caftle) called 
Warden Walks, which has been prefented to the 
inhabitants by Lord Oxford. It commands va- 
rious and extenfive profpe&s of the neighbouring 
country,, and is well laid out and planted. 

A winding gravel walk conducted us to the 
fummit, on which is a bowling-green : and it 
feems to have been intended to ere& a fort of pa- 
villion here, for the reception of the company ; 
but the building remains unfinifhed. 

The courfe of the Lug is feen at the foot of the 
mount ; and fome of the roads leading to Pref- 
telgn wind among the hills, as if formed on pur- 
pofe to gratify the eye from hence. 

The more we faw of this part of the country, 
the more we were pleafed with it, and its inha- 
bitants : and every day gave us frefh proofs of 

the 



g6 A JOURNEY 

the generofity of their difpofitions, and the un- 
affected politenefs of which we had fo often 
heard, 

As I ftrolled through the fields near Prefteign, 
snd climbed the neighbouring hills in fearch of 
profpects, it frequently happened to me, to meet 
with fome ruiiic wanderers, who were either fol- 
lowing their kine, tending their flocks, or col- 
lecting dry flicks to feed their evening fires ; and 
this gave me abundant opportunities of remarks 
mg the difference between the fimple untainted 
manners of the Welch peafantry, and the imper- 
tinence of large towns. Here every body is un- 
affectedly civil ; and, what is more, difintereft- 
edly fo : no naked clamorous children funning 
in your way, and vociferating for halfpence till 
they deafen you with importunity. 

In one of my walks, a turnpike gate, through 
which I was to pafs, happening to be fhut ; while 
I was lifting up the latch which fattened it, a neat 
old woman, who collects the toll, came out, 
with many curtefies and apologies, that fhe did 
not fee me, or I fhould not have had the trouble 
to open the gate myfelf. This anecdote may ap- 
pear trivial ; but where can it be matched in the 
counties which call themfelves polifhed ? If this 

was 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 97 

Was not politenefs, tell me, ye difciples of Chef* 
ierfield, what is ? 

We made an excurfion to vifit Weobley en- 
campment ; and an unufually fine morning gave 
us ah opportunity of feeing it to great advantage- 
It is placed on the fummit of a proud emi- 
nence, which overtops the neighbouring coun- 
try, and frowns defiance at the huge ridges, 
which every where raife themfelves around it. 

Even if the antiquity of this camp did not re- 
commend it to the notice of the curious^ the 
delightful profpect which it commands would 
render it an object well worthy of attention to the 
contemplative traveller* 

To the fouth-eaft, the eye ftretches as far as 
May Hill, in Glouceflerfhire : and the city of He- 
reford is only hidden by the intervention of a 
range of hills, which terminates in the remark- 
able promontory of Lady -lift before mentioned. 
Skerrit, in Monmouthjhire> and the Black Moun- 
tains^ whofe fummics were wrapped in fnovv, en- 
clofe the profpec~l on the fouth ; and the Rod* 
norjhire hills, in a vaft variety of fhapes, on the 
weft and north-weft, are objects highly (hiking 
and pidurefque. 

H Robin 



$S A JOURNEY 

Robin Hood's Butts, a little detached eminence, 
{lands in the midft of a beautiful plain, called 
Tembridge bottom. The Earl of Oxford's feat, 
at Eywood, is feen in the valley below, fheltered 
and embofomed among rich woods and planta- 
tions; and on the north, the town of Prefteign, 
with the villas at Broad-heath and Stapleton^ feems 
lying at the foot of this ftupendous height. 

A great hill near Llanidloes, which I at firft 
fufpected to be the top of Plinlimmon, peeps over 
the fhoulders of fome intervening mountains ; 
and a beautiful irregularity of ground brings the 
eye to an opening in the north-eaft, which af- 
fords a glimpfe of Ridgley park, in StaffordJhire 9 
at a great diflance. 

Having taken a fliort furvey of the country 
around it, the camp itfelf next claimed our at- 
tention. 

The form is irregularly oval, the north fide 
being almoft ftraight. The entrance was origi- 
nally from the fouth ; but feveral breaches have 
been made in the works at different times. 

From the entrance to the north-weft fide, there 
are four ditches, as there are likewife from the 
fame entrance to the fouth-eaft angle, which oc- 
cupies the higheft ground of the hill : — from 

thence 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 99 

thence to the north-eaft angle are five ditches, 
with confiderable fpaces of ground between them. 

The north fide being inaccefTible, on account 
of the almoft perpendicular declivity of the 
ground, has only one vallum which runs in a 
direct line along the brow of the hill. 

A fort of refervoir ftill exifts, in which there 
is a fupply of water, ufually fourteen or fifteen 
feet deep ; but always in confiderable quantity, 
even in the greateft drought. 

The area of the camp has been turned up by 
the plough ; but it is now like the reft of the 
hill, a rabbit warren. 

An ancient warrener, who, with his fon, con- 
dueled me round the camp, appeared to be a 
a very fenfible and intelligent man. 

He informed me, that about thirty years ago, 
he was in pofTefTion of an old book, entitled 
" Lyte's Light of Britain ;" which, among a va- 
riety of ancient hiftorical minutes, contained a 
particular account of this encampment ; but that 
by the defire of the late Earl of Oxford, he had 
lent this book to a neighbouring gentleman, who 
never returned it. 

Hearne, the celebrated antiquary, has men- 
tioned this author, whofe works above alluded to, 
H 2 confided 



J CO A JOURNEY 

confided of a fummary of Englifh hiftory en* 
graved ; but the book is now, I believe, ex- 
tremely fcarce ; as I have never yet been able to 
obtain a fight of it. 

The warrener faid, that he well remembered 
thefe lines were related to have been thrown up 
by the Romans, foon after the commencement of 
the Chriflian sera ; and that Caraclacus had oc- 
cupied them with a very formidable train. 

Three filver coins were dug up here fome 
years fmce, and prefented to the Countefs Dow- 
ager of Oxford : — a bell-metal pot was alfo disco- 
vered at the eaftern eminence, early in this cen- 
tury, which the man very rationally fuggefted 3 
might have been one of the veffels ufed for hold- 
ing pitch, to be fired by way of beacon, in cafe 
of alarm. 

This method of giving notice of the approach 
of an enemy, appears to have been introduced 
about the reign of Edward the third. Before 
that period, a fire of wood being commonly ufed 
on fuch occafions. The lighting of beacons, in 
fome fhape, feems to be coeval with the art of 
war, and the organization of fociety : it was at 
leaft become a common practice in the days of 

the 



INTO SOUTH WALES. IOI 

the prophets, in whofe writings it is frequently 
alluded to. 

A coin of Henry the eighth was alfo picked up 
hsre, conjectured to have been dropped in the 
civil war, by fome of Oliver Cromwell's foldiers, 
who pofieffed themfrlves of this eminence for a 
fliort time. 

The warren, which is four miles round, and 
walled in ; and the contiguous eftate, are the 
property of the Earl of Oxford, 

Having defcended from the hill, and regained 
the turnpike road, we purfued a track which con- 
dueled us to the little village of Najh* where we 
pafifed a deep and furious ftream ; and afterwards 
returned to Prefteign^ through a romantic valley, 
fhaded by a woody fleep. 

In the courfe of our morning's ride, we met 
with a little horde of Welch-men^ who, with 
their wives and children, and all that they had, 
were quitting their native retirement, the peace- 
ful retreat of innocence and penury, and jour- 
neying towards Deptford, to procure employ- 
ment in the dock-yard, 

Thefe poor people, who had lived in Cardi* 

diganfhire, till they could no longer fupport 

themfelves, exhibited a picture of induftry and 

H 3 patience, 



102 A JOURNEY 

patience, which could not fail to excite our ad-» 
miration and pity. 

It augurs no good, however, when induftry 
is put to its laft efforts — when patience is drawn 
out, till it is nearly exhaufted^— when the honeft 
cottager is forced from his native foil for bread ! 

*« 111 fares the land, to haftening ills a prey, 

*' When wealth accumulates, and men decay ; 

" Princes and peers may fiounfh or may fade, 

*' A breath can make them, as a breath has made ; 

«' But a bold peafantry, a nation's pride, 

** When once deftroy'd, can never be fupplied." 

It is not at all uncommon for the Welch pea- 
fantry to emigrate to the neighbouring counties, 
or even to proceed as far as the metropolis, in 
fearch of employment, in gardening and hufban* 
dry, early in the fpring ; but they afterwards re- 
turn with the little earnings of their labour, to 
their expectant families, whofe fubfiftence does 
not altogether depend on this precarious aid ; for 
the women, whom they leave at home, are ex* 
tremely induftrious ; and even the children are 
early enured to laborious exertions. 

But the party of which I have been fpeaking 3 
liad for ever bade adieu to 



The 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 



•* The happy hills, the pleafmg fhade, and fields belov'd 



in vain," 



which had been the fcene of their former enjoy- 
ments. 

Chill penury, with its attendant train of hor- 
rors, at laft prevailed ; and hard, indeed, mud 
have been the fufferings of thefe unhappy people, 
which could drive them for ever from their 
homes, and tear in funder thofe clofely connect- 
ing bonds, which tied t em to their ancient ha* 
bitatio.ns, and to the fepulchres qX their fathers ! 



H 4 



A JOURNEY 



CHAP. XL 

Views, — New Radnor, — T^he Cajlle, — Remarkable Cafcade,—* 
Mountainous Country. — LI ndegles Wells, — Pennylont.—* 
Rhyader-gowy, — Red Lion Inn. 

The road to New Radnor pafles clofe to the 
Warden Walks in going out of Pre/letgn, and, 
with a winding tract, afcends a fteep hill, from 
whofe fummit is a wild but pleafmg profped of 
unequal ground, with here and there a cottage, 
romantically fituated on the fide of the deep, 
or buried in the hollow of the irriguous valley, 

" Rude hills compofe the fide-long- fcene, 
" With crpfts and cottages between." 

Defcending this hill, and climbing another, fe- 
veral fmall villages and farms appear fcattered 
among the fields ; and having pafTed a turnpike* 
houfe, the road winds to the left, fheltered by a 
range of lofty eminences, which fcreened i us 
from the north wind that blew with great vio- 
lence. 

On the fouth is a fine valley, and beyond it 
the eye wanders over a number of bold hills, 

the 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 05 

the profpecl being bounded by the awful brow 
of the Black Mountains. 

The church of Old Radnor (lands on the very 
edge of this valley, and we pafled Mr. Lewis's 
houfe, in a low fituation, furrounded with plan- 
tations of fir and poplar. 

A cake of mow ftill remained {April 29th) 
on the fide of a hill clofe to the road, and not . 
far from it we obferved the fpot which was for- 
merly ufed for lighting a beacon. 

The defcent into New Radnor is very fteep, 
and fo fudden that we arrived at the town without 
having perceived the fmalleft indications of ap- 
proaching it. 

At the entrance is a lofty eminence, on which 
the caftle formerly flood, but of which only a 
fmall fragment of the fouth wall is remaining. 

About fourteen years ago, when the turnpike 
road was made, fome workmen employed to dig 
for flones among the rubbifh of the foundations, 
difcovered feveral cannon balls, and the heads of 
two pr three battle axes. The balls feemed to 
have belonged to fmall field pieces, — one only 
was of larger fize, a twenty-four pounder, and 
this was found flicking in a wall. 

The building was demolifhed by the parlia- 
mentary forces, in the civil wars. 

The 



Io6 A JOURNEY 

The church ftands juft below the fcite of the 
caftle, but contains nothing remarkable: and 5 
in fhort, the borough itfelf, with all its parlia- 
mentary privileges and municipal honours, is one 
of the mod wretched and defolate places which 
can be imagined. 

It was not without great difficulty that we 
could procure a flight breakfaft, or even pro* 
vender for our horfes ; but when they had been 
obtained, we were made to pay for them like 
Englifhmen. 

After leaving Radnor, we obferved a farm- 
houfe on the right, at which we had been told to 
enquire for the road to a water-fall, in its vicinity. 

Being there directed to keep up a narrow val- 
ley to the right, we foon found ourfelves on the 
fide of a fteep mountain, with a ftrong current 
of water defcending through a winding dingle 
on the left, and very foft and deceitful ground 
under our feet, in confequence of the multitude 
of rabbits which abound here. 

As it did not appear poffible to approach the 
entrance of the chafm on horfeback, through 
which the water defcended, we endeavoured to 
make ourfelves heard by a fhepherd, whofe ha- 
bitation flood on the brow of the oppofite hill. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. IO? 

The man foon made his appearance, and di- 
rected us to return to the foot of the mountain; 
and then to ride up the courfe of the ftream. 
This, however, is not always practicable, and in 
wet feafons, it is impoffible to go up very near 
to the cataract. 

Purfuant to the inductions, which had been 
o-iven us, we afcended between two tremendous 
cliffs, compofed of naked rocks and flate, among 
which trees of various fizes hung fufpended by 
their roots over the mod awful chafm my eyes 
ever beheld. 

The effect is greatly heightened by the colour 
of the rock, which is almoft black. The impend- 
ing precipices, which appear in fome places ready 
to overwhelm the intrufrve traveller, and the 
rough grandeur of the prodigious maffes here 
and there detached from the great body of the 
mountain, added to the (tupendous height to 
which the eye is directed, altogether filled us 
with a degree of aftonifhment and horror fcarcely 
to be paralleled. 

From a break in the extremity of this fiffure, 
but not from the very top, a fine cafcade fell 
gracefully, for about feventy feet, over the rough 
projecting edges of the rock, and variegated the 
fcene with a fheet of foam. 

There 



Io8 A JOURNEY 

There are five or fix fmaller cafcades, which 
are not feen from below, but which, in wet 
weather, or after the melting of fnow, are all 
objects highly deferving of attention. 

It is remarkable that trout of a very large fize, 
are found in all parts of this fmgular fall, — even 
in the chinks and crevices of the rocks which 
form the uppermoft cafcades, and which are not 
more than a quarter of a mile from the fource 
of the fpring which fupplies them. 

Directly above the great water-fall, is an in- 
fulated rock, nearly twenty feet high, whofe ba- 
ds is worn to a flender pillar, by the repercufiive 
force of the cataract, — which is called " Water 
cc break its neck,* 9 

The mangled carcafes of two flieep and a 
goat were melancholy proofs of the danger to 
which thefe harmlefs animals are expofed, in 
feeding, by night, too near the brink of this 
dreadful chafm. 

The ihepherd recommended us, as the day 
was clear, and we had fufficient time to avoid 
the imminent danger of being on the mountains 
after dark, to purfue a narrow path which he 
pointed out, along the fide of this Alpine ridge, 

and 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 109 

and' which, he faid, would re-conduct us into 
the turnpike road from which we had deviated. 

Never, furely, was a fight more noble or more 
interefting than the bold and tremendous view 
which foon prefented itfelf. 

We climbed the heights without difficulty, but 
were, on a fudden, elevated fo prodigioufly above 
precipices, glens, and frightful declivities, that 
the head became giddy at the fight. 

The furface of the mountains was here fmooth 
as a carpet,— there, rugged, and broken into a 
thoufand fiflures, — here, a dream precipitated 
itfelf from the giddy eminence, — there, a patch 
of fnow, ftrikingly contrafted the verdure of the 
downs, while fheep innumerable were fcattered 
over the whole face of the country, and dotted 
the wide expanfe in a ityle of inimitable beauty. 

With cautious fteps we paced the track af- 
figned us, and fortunately reached the level coun- 
try without one falfe flep, — for one falfe ftep 
would have been irretrievable. 

An ancient female who was affifting her huf- 
bandin his field, directed us into the road, which 
we regained at a point where it enters an enclofed 
country, under the fliadow of a rocky promon- 
tory, called Llandegles Rocks ', which exactly re- 

fembles 



iio A JOURNEY 

fembles Crockern Tort and Brent Torr, in Corn* 
wall and Devon/hire, and thofe other eminences 
to which fimtiar appellations are there applied. 

The road foon brought us to the village of 
Llandegles : and a painted pofl on the right hand 
pointed to Llandegles Welh -,— - -a fulphureous vitri- 
olic water, which arifes in a field near the road. 

The fpring is immediately conducted into a 
fmall building, now dilapidated, in which is a 
refervoir, which ferves as a bath for the few per- 
fons who refort hither. 

The water is covered with a brown fcum, is 
of a very dark blue, or rather blackifh colour, 
and emits a firong and mod abominable flench, 
as of rotten eggs. 

Its tafte is not, however, fo difagreeable as 
might be^expected, the impregnation of the vi- 
triol being but flight. 

From Llandegles the alliance is only two miles 
to Penny 'bont 9 a ftill fmaller village. Here I faw, 
for the firft time, a herd of Welch oxen feeding, 
and a great number of thofe rough looking, 
but fure-footed ponies with which this country 
abounds, were nibbling the moffy turf of the 
mountains* 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES* HI 

The neat cottages of Penny bont are prettily 
fituated on the bank of a broad and clear dream, 
the river Eython, over which is a wooden bridge. 

One of the houfes here was for fome years the 
Radnor/hire bank, a mod refpectable firm, though 
fituated in this remote and almoft defolate part 
of the country. 

The iblitude here is pleafing, for though not 
adorned with morTy grots or verdant lawns, the 
river rolls over the (tones with a gentle murmur- 
ing, and chere is cheerfulnefs as well as quiet, 
" rivi levis et per faxa. difcurfus, nee non folitudo 
" et quies, mufis amici^ r ima. ,, 

Afcending a hill beyond Penny-bont, we had 
before us a large valley, which extends to a great 
diftance towards the fouth, and is bounded, on 
that fide, by a wavy line of mountainous emi- 
nences, whofe blue fumrnits feem to indent the. 
clouds. 

The country here is well cultivated, and agree- 
ably interfperfed with wood. 

The women, who are in general very robuft 
and well calculated to endure fatigue, fhare with 
the ftronger fex the mod: arduous exertions and 
bufmefs of hufbandry, and they are very com- 
monly feen either driving the horfes affixed to 

the 



112 A JOURNEY 

the plough, or leading thofe which draw thd 
harrow. 

Having croffed this valley the road winds round 
the fide of a noble mountain, which rifes with 
awful majefty to a tremendous height. 

A mile and a half from Rhyader>gdwy 9 we 
came within fight of that town, and approached 
it by a good road, gently defcertding. 

The fituation oiRhyader is romantic, its build- 
ings are clean and neat, there is an air of induf- 
trious activity about the inhabitants, and their 
civility is accordant with the general tenor of 
what I have before defcribed to have uniformly 
met with, in this part of the country. 

In the principal ftreet is a fmall market-houfe, 
built with rough (tones ; and the town contains 
feveral houfes which would make a good figure, 
in places very differently fituated. 

The river Wye paffes Rhyader through a rocky 
channel, and under a ftrong bridge of one arch, 
which has been delineated with great accuracy 
by Mr. Ireland. 

The view of the neighbouring country, from 
the bank of the river, is highly picturefque and 
romantic. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. U3 

The craggy bed of the Wye, whofe foaming 
current rufhes along clofe to the- town; two fmall 
and neat churches, which appear to belong to it, 
(though they are in reality appropriated to the 
ufe of different parifhes) and the bold front of 
the mountains, whofe bofoms are thrown for- 
ward towards the courfe of the river, are objects 
which cannot fail to intereft every admirer of nar 
ture, and every lover of rural life. 

Mr. Evans, who keeps the Red Lion Inn, is a 
fenfible, well-informed man, and took the pains 
to correct my orthography of the Welch names 
of towns, with great civility. 

The public would have been laid under an ob- 
ligation by Meffrs. Gilpin and Ireland, if they 
had condefeended to afk the like affiftance. Mr. 
Ireland fpells Rhyader, Rhaidr ; the river Eytbon, 
Ither ; the Rhyddol, Rydall ; and the name of 
Bifhop de Lotharinga, which is very plainly writ- 
ten for him over the monument at Hereford, he 
calls Lozinga. 

Human life is fo made up of a collection of little 
circumftances, and fo much of our happinefs or 
mifery depends upon thofe little circumftances, 
which, being common to all, many affect to de- 
fpife -, that I hope I fhall not be thought trivially 

I minute 



114 A JOURNEY 

minute, in recording again and again, the refpecl* 
ful behaviour,— the genuine politenefs,— the" ac- 
commodating civilities of the people of this re- 
mote fit nation. 

A good humoured Welch girl was the only at* 
tendant, who, though flie underftood fcarcely one 
word of Englifh, manifefted that docility of tem- 
per, and afliduity to pleafe, which is the fuperior 
accomplifhment of her fiation ; and which I am 
happy to have eflablifhed in my remembrance, 
as the general characleriftic of the Welch nation. 

Blufli, ye fons of luxury, and votaries of re- 
finement ! Ye who think that infolence is wit* 
and rudenefs courage ! learn of the wild inhabit 
tants of the mountains that generofity of fenti- 
ment, which prompts intuitively to oblige, and 
, far excels in its intrinfic value, the brighter!: gems 
of poliOied refinement. 

Here we were regaled with an excellent fup- 
per. A couple of very fine roafted fowls, 'a 
ham, a large difh of veal cutlets, a piece of 
cold road beef, and excellent tarts ; for all which, 
including about a quart of ilrong beer per man* 
we only paid one /hilling each. 

Tollerable fare ! for what a certain traveller 
has captioufly denominated "a miferable place." 

M 



INTO SOUTH WALES. Ilj 

At Rhyader we obferved a building of fome 
fize, ufed as a diflenting .meeting houfe. On 
the door was patted a profpectus of the Bible, 
in the Welch language ; from which I infer that 
the literature of this part of the country is chiefly 
in the hands of the difienters, as well as in 
England. 

This remark may, perhaps, require fome ex- 
planation, or, at leaft, there may be a few cri- 
tics who will be inclined to cavil at it ; — to thefe 
I {hall only obferve, in the very words ufed by a 
refpe&able publifher in Lo?idon fome time fmce, 
" The clergy of the church of England are, in 
" general, too rich, too proud, too ignorant, 
" or too lazy to attend to the bufinefs of com- 
" pilation." 



la 



Il6 A JOURNEY" 



CHAR XII. 

Crofs the River Wye. — Mountain. — Defert. — Bogs.-—PrecU 
pees. — Promontories. — Lead- Mine. 

Lead ore, or galena, is found in the neigh- 
bourhood of Rhyader, as well as in the hills 
more weft ward. A very rich fpecimen was 
fhewn us, which had been lately dug up near the 
town, in draining a bog. 

Croffed the Wye, and afcended by a very deep 
road, to the fummit of a mountain, which ap- 
peared fomewhat elevated above thofe which 
furround it; — then deviated to the left, and 
gained the projecting point of an eminence, which 
affords a romantic profpecl of a number of hills, 
covered with craggy rocks, and a torrent tumb- 
ling among the precipices into a hollow valley. 

Having returned into the road, and completed 
an afcent of about three miles, we enjoyed a 
errand view of the bleak fummits of innumerable 
mountains ; and, on a fudden, rearing its head 
with proud pre-eminence, the mighty and ma- 
jeflic Plinllimmon burft on our aftonifhed fight. 
4 We 



INTO SOUTH WALES. • I 1 7 

We had been contemplating fo many hills of 
various fizes, both yefterday and to day ; and, 
at this very time, feemed to be elevated fo near 
to the clouds, that I could have fcarcely believed 
it poffible for this king of the fouth, to appear fo 
much diftinguifhed from the red: of the moun- 
tains : nor can I find words to exprefs the fenfa- 
tion produced by its fir ft appearance, apparently 
clad in fnow, and foaring, beyond comparifon, 
above thofe huge ridges, which a moment be- 
fore, feemed like the " boundaries of nature." 

The eminences around us, now refutned the 
appearance of fine fwelling downs, having loft 
the craggy rocks, with which the hills we had 
lately palled were covered. 

Their furfaces were varied by innumerable 
fprings, whofe tranflucent waters, when collected, 
form the little river Eytbon, which murmured 
among the rocks, and foamed at the bottom of 
a valley on the left. 

The oppofite hills were covered with fheep, 
and black cattle, who feemed to nibble at the 
fcanty herbage, with great eagernefs. 

Turning to the right we began to defcend 3 and 

at length, by a winding track, approached the 

bottom of the valley, where the river, which 

1 3 forces 



Il8 A JOURNEY 

forces itfelf with great violence among the rocks, 
is made ftill more pi&urefque, by a rude bridge 
thrown over it. 

A tributary itrearn comes from the well:, and 
increafes the violence of the current, as it ftill 
winds not far from the fide of the road, which 
alternately rifes and finks, running like a fort of 
terrace at the foot of the mountains. 

Our ears were aftonifhed with a noife, which, 
in any other road, would have been mi (taken for 
that of a carriage: it proved, however, to be 
the defcent of a current of water from the hills. 

Its banks approach near together, and enclofe 
the turbulent ftream, within fo narrow and deep 
a channel, that although we were riding very 
near it, the water was completely Jiidden among 
the rocks. 



e f Claufo fxt gurgite murmur, 

*' Vicinaeque fremunt rips crepitantibus unclis." 

Some granite, and coarfe marble, are here 
intermixed with a kind of blue ftone, eafily mif- 
taken for flate. 

The road bending by the foot of the moun- 
tains, croffes a pretty large ftream, which, 
from the width of its channel, mult, in winter, 
be very dangerous, if not impaffable* 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. I 10, 

The hills on the left again became more rug- 
ged, and we loft our old companion, the Eython, 
which turns into a valley to the fouth-weli. 

" Then varying to a joylefs land of bogs, 

" The fadden'd country a grey wade appearM." 

We palled a piece of marfiry ground, and fome 
tremendous bogs, whofe infecure and rotten fur- 
face difdains the preffure of the foot of man. 

The road afterwards leads over very rough 
rocks, and loofe (tones, which appear to have 
fallen from an abrupt precipice. Here, likewiie, 
lay the carcafes of three fheep, which, I fuppofe, 
had tempted the giddy height, fallen from its 
fiippery fide, and perifned. 

Not a Tingle habitation is to be difcerned ; not 
a tree, nor a bufn to be feen : nor has the fur- 
face of the ground ever yielded to the ftroke of 
the plough-fhare. 

" No human voice interrupts the ftill iilence 
* c which here prevails ; no trace of cultivation 
" enlivens the dreary folitude." 

We parted along a terrace, which fome- 
times arofe very high up the fide of the moun- 
tain, in the mod romantic ftyle imaginable. 

The rocky promontory which we had juft be- 
fore contemplated with aftonifhment, was, how- 
i 4 ever* 



120 A JOURNEY 

ever, not to be compared with the fcene which 
now prefented itfelf. 

The road clinging to the fide of a lofty moun* 
tain, every where rough, with large fragments 
of rocks, is elevated about fixty yards above the 
bottom of a narrow valley, which is occupied by 
a rapid flream hilling among the rocks, and 
whirling in a thoufand eddies. 

On the oppofite fide, the mountain moots into 
an abrupt precipice towards the weft, and termi- 
nates in a craggy point, at leaft five hundred 
feet high ; but, from the boldnefs of the decli- 
vity, not farther than that diftance from the path 
along which we were riding* 

The hills which fheltered us on the left, de- 
fcended by the boldeft Hope which can be con- 
ceived, Ihort of a cliff, or a precipice : and the 
fheep, feeding on its fide, feemed to hang in the 
air. 

Some Welch ponies were grazing on the op- 
pofite fteep, in fituations which made me (hud- 
der to look at them. They fhifted their pofi- 
tion, however, as if in perfect fafety; and 
fcrambled about among the cliffs as if they 
had wings to fave themfelves from the danger 
of falling. 

As 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 121 

As we defcended lower into the valley, the 
height of the mountains was feen to greater ad- 
vantage ; but, in this defcent, our eyes were 
principally directed to the hazardous fituation of 
the road ; and our attention engaged by the 
danger to which we were ourfelves expofed. 

Afterwards, when we had time to look about 
us, we were aftonifhed to fee, with how much 
apparent unconcern and facility, a female moun- 
taineer climbed this prodigious eminence, with 
a large burden of wood on her head, although 
the place where (lie afcended was, at leaft, as 
deep as the roof of a houfe. 

She walked in as much feeming fecurity, as if 
fhe had been on level ground ; and when me 
had gained the fummit, fate herfelf quietly down, 
and took her turn to obferve our appearance, as 
we had done her's. 

It is worthy of remark, that whenever a fpring 
is feen defcending from the fide of this narrow 
valley, it is matched by another, on the oppofite 
bank ; and the rocks, among which their accu- 
mulated waters flow, are, in many places, beau- 
tifully covered and variegated with ivy. 

Having arrived at what we thought the termi- 
nation of the valley, we were indulged with a 
profpeft of four habitations at once. 

I was 



1±2 A JOURNEY 

I was muling whether this might be denomi- 
nated a village, when the road turning fuddenly 
to the right, difcovered that the valley did not 
terminate here 5 but that the hills receding back- 
ward formed a kind of amphitheatre, and pre- 
fented, very unexpectedly, a view of feveral cul- 
tivated fields ; and a modern bridge, with an or- 
namented ballufiradc. 

This is the village of Cwm Tftwiih^ than which 
there are few to be feen, more miferable, or more 
clefolate. 

I counted five chimneys, the only mode I had 
of afcertaining the number of houfes ; and I pre- 
fume that I was not much miftaken ; for I could 
not fuppofe, by their appearance," that either of 
the houfes had two chimneys ; and I would not 
degrade the town fo much, as to believe that 
there was any houfe without one. 

CroiTed the bridge, (which I mould have 
thought better adapted to the fcenery around it, 
if it had only confided of a fmgle arch, with a 
plain parapet,) and paffed along a terrace on the 
fide of a craggy mountain. • 

On the left was a perpendicular defcent to the 
water's edge ; and fufpended over us, nodding 
rocks, which feemed to threaten the traveller 

with inftant deflruclion. 

Large 



INTO SOUTH WALES. I23 

Large mades of (lone had been loofeiled by the 
frod, or tumbled into the road, and down* the 
deep below, by the tempeduous wintry winds. 

The horrors of fuch a fcene in winter mud be 
paft conception, excepting by thofe who are un- 
fortunately expofed to dorms and tempefls in this 
dreary and frightful folitude. 

The rugged banks of the river now become 
fringed with cultivated fields, and here and there 
a turf-covered cottage rears its humble roof, 
The mountains are, however, extremely difmal ; 
their fleecy inhabitants are no longer feen, and 
the Welch poney alone remains the hardy tenant 
pf this folitary and defert wade. 

Faded a lead-mine, the fcorise of which, point- 
ed out its fituation long before we could didin- 
guifh the fhaft. 

. No human creature appeared of whom any in- 
telligence about it could be obtained ; at lad five 
females emerged from the paflage which has 
been made to drain off the water from the mine % 
but not one of them could fpeak a word of 
Englijh, 

Farther on we faw a fecond work, and one 
man among the labourers could fpeak Englijh : 
he conducted us to a fubterranean paflage, which 

entered 



J 24 A JOURNEY 

entered into the bowels of the mountain for 
about three hundred yards ; then turning to the 
right, a gentle afcent brought us to the mine, 
without the inconvenience of any rope and 
bucket exhibition. 

The mode of digging and procuring the ore is 
the fame as in the tin mines ; but there being left 
fpar, the labour is not fo confiderable. 



INTO SOUTH WALES. I 25 



CHAP. XIII. 

Hafoih— Cafcades, — Walks. — Bridges. — Kitchen Garden, — 
The Cockatoo, — River Tflwith. — Pont-y-Mynach. 

Soon after we left the lead-mine, the foil ap- 
peared altered; the ftrata of flone being ex- 
changed for a fort of flate, which being eafily 
reduced into fmall pieces, and readily compact- 
ing, makes a firm, hard, and even road. 

The furface of the mountains is ilill broken 
and rugged 5 but there is an appearance of til- 
lage, and a few trees begin to grow. 

The road afcends, and fkirting the right-hand 
mountain, prefents a continual fcene of confter- 
nation and horror, till it comes to a frightful pre- 
cipice, which made me excefiively giddy. 

On the left is a peep into a fmall valley, whofe 
fides are covered with wood, which we knew 
muir. be Mr. Johnes's, at Hafod. 

The river murmuring among the rocks at the 
bottom, foon paffes a woody glen ; by whofe 
fide are feveral enclofures in tillage. 

Here were half a fcore of Welch boys, drefTed 
in almoft black clothes, dancing round a fire of 

fwitch, 



126 A JOURNEY 

iwitch, in a field ; a group which brought to my 
mind the idea conveyed in Robin/on Crufoe's ad- 
ventures* of the favages at their revels. 

Defcending by fome comfortable neat cot- 
tages, we entered on another terrace \ but this is 
guarded by a (lone wall, which, though built 
without cement, paries fo many inequalities of 
ground, that it murl have cod great labour and 
pains in raifmg. 

Turned to the left, for Bafod, through a din- 
gle, covered with oaks, and afterwards crofTed a 
more extenfive wood* which is fpread over a no- 
ble hill on the right. This brought us to" a little 
meadow, clofe to another woody Hope, which 
rifes to an aftonifhing height on one fide of the 
road, and defcends on the other to the rocks at 
the water's edge. 

In one place, peeped through the trees, and 
caught a glimpfe of a cafcade, which is no 
fooner loft, than a flower garden prefents itfelf. 

The craggy rocks which appear among the 
trees on the right, flioot up to a prodigious ele- 
vation, and a fmall turret has been happily placed 
on one of them, which is executed with fo much 
tafte and propriety, that it can fcareely be thought 
artificial, 

On 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 12? 

On a Hoping ground, at the foot of this beau- 
tiful wood, and enclofed with a truly rural and 
fylvan fcene, (lands the manfion houfe* an ele- 
gant building, in the Italian (tyle, with a con- 
fervatory adjoining. 

The meadow, or lawn, to which it opens, lies 
in its natural (late. No Brownonia?i attempts 
have been made to Hope and fwell it : a few trees 
are here and there fcattered about ; but they are 
all of the forefl kinds ; and the drive up to the 
door is thrown into the moll carelefs and elegant 
bend imaginable. 

To fpeak of Hafod as a connoiffeur, there is a 
great deal to admire, and to praifej and, per- 
haps, a little to difapprove. 

My expectations, I will candidly acknowledge, 
had been greatly raifed, by the feveral defcrip- 
tions which I have read of this place ; and al- 
though fome of thofe expectations were difap- 
pointed, it is rather to the honour of the grounds, 
than to their difcredit. 

So much flrefs has been laid on the rarity of 
the fcene, and the (Inking contrail between it, 
and the rugged afpedt of the furrounding coun- 
try, that I had begun to fuppofe the chef d 9 csuvre 
confided in creating aftonilhment and feeding 

furprife, 



128 A JOURNEY 

furprife, by a difplay of highly-finifhed orna- 
ments, and laboured decorations. 

So far from its being a place entirely different 
from the genius of the country, I confider its 
greateft merit to arife from its confiftency ; and 
the fuitablenefs of the arrangements to fhew 
fome great natural beauties to the mod: flriking 
advantage. 

Although we admire tafte, as the handmaid of 
art, fhe has a better claim to our regard, as the 
fitter of fimplicity ; a relationfhip which is, per- 
haps, feldom fo readily difcovered as at Hafod. 

When I read of Goihic> Chinefe, Rujiic^ and 
many other bridges, I expected to have found 
feveral attempts at prettinefs, which the furround- 
ing fcenery would have rendered odious and dif- 
gufting. Inftead of this, you are conducted over 
the three dreams, which conftitute the principal 
beauty of the grounds, in one place, by a ftrong 
rough arch, which can not be faid to belong to 
any order of architecture ; and which ferving for 
ftrength and utility only, is almofl hidden in the 
furrounding trees : in two or three other places 
by a fmgle tree, or a rude plank, thrown care- 
lefsly acrofs, in the mod artlefs ftyle of genuine 
fimplicity j and in one inflance only, has the 

hand 



INTO SOUTH WALES. I 29 

hand of art made its appearance, which is in a 
neat wooden bridge, without any pretentions to 
ornament, which is thrown over the united 
ftreams of the 7J/hvith 9 within fight of the houfe. 

We firft viewed the kitchen garden, which 
is placed in a very warm dell, in the fouthern 
corner of the little narrow valley, which enclofes 
thefe premifes ; and walked through an extenfive 
range of forcing houfes, which occupy almoft the 
whole of the north fide of the garden. 

Here we were introduced to a moft beautiful 
bird, of the paroquet fpecies, called the cocka- 
too, a native of the Eaji Indies ; who ranges 
about, without controul ; and though he fome- 
times leaves the garden, and goes into the neigh- 
bouring wood, he always returns in the evening 
to his accuftomed place of repofe. 

The gardener informed us, that this extraor*. 
dinary bird was particularly fond of ftrangers ? 
who fometimes careffed it : — we no fooner ap- 
proached, than it fet up a very fhrill note, as if 
of rejoicing ; ftretched out its foot from the fpray 
on which he flood, and feemed defirous of a more 
intimate acquaintance. I gave him my hand 
into which he immediately defcended with great 
K gravity, 



130 A JOURNEY 

gravity, but apparent fatisfaclion ; turned himfelf 
round, difplayed a mod beautiful triple yellow 
creflr, which rifes three or four inches^ from his 
head, and then perching on my finger, peered 
up in my face, as if to thank me for this indul- 
gence. 

How happy would a difciple of Pythagoras 
have felt himfelf, in the enjoyment of his fa- 
vourite docliine of tranfmigration : he would 
have found in the cockatoo fome valuable and 
long loft friend ; who in the new habit of the fea- 
thered race, recognized his former acquaintance, 
and frill felt the bond of friend fhip's.facred tie. 

There is fomething inexpreflibly beautiful in 
the idea ; and, as it naturally led to produce a 
great degree of tendernefs and companion for 
the animal creation, the man of feeling can not 
but lament, that while Chrillians expunge the 
errors of this doclrine, they do not more ftudi- 
oully regard the benignity of thofe principles, 
which it fo forcibly inculcates. 

The beautiful little bird travelled with us 
round the garden, frequently imitating the cry 
or notes of the different birds, which were Ting- 
ing among the trees* 

In 



INTO SOUTH WALES. I $1 

• In the hot houfe he efpied fome ftrawberries, 
and gathered a great number, but without quit- 
ting my hand. Having perambulated the gar- 
den, I could not readily difengage myfelf from 
my new companion, who clung to me with all 
the fondnefs of affection. 

At parting he fet up a very fhrill note, ex- 
tremely different from that with which he wel- 
comed us on our arrival ; and we left him to the 
enjoyment of his fruit, while we went to explore 
the beauties of the contiguous grounds. 

We were conducted by the fide of the river, 
which was at that time very low, and fcarcely 
covered the half of its ftony bed, to the foot of 
the Chinefe bridge, as it has been called. 

Here the attention is arrefled, firffc by the 
magnificence of the furrounding fcenery, the 
bold elevation of the mountains on each fide, and 
the fylvan honours with which they are crowned : 
next, by the foaming current, which daihes 
againfl the rocks below ; and then, by the fair 
front of the manfion on the left, which is ele- 
gance itfelf. 

Purfuing a path on the north fide of the river, 
we faw on the left, the little turret before men- 
tioned, on the pinnacle of a rock, half buried 
Ka ia 



1^2 A JOURNEY 

in the fhade of magnificent oaks, which clothe 
the hill in gorgeous majefty. 

Here is a fmall (lone building, ufed as a cold 
bath, perfectly plain and unadorned. The trees 
on the oppofite Hope, which, like this, arifes 
from the river's brink, appear perfectly wild ; 
and, excepting the mark of one narrow path, 
which may be traced among them, there is not 
the fmalleft indication that thefe folitary haunts 
are accu domed to the human foot. 

This walk leads to the flower garden, which 
is walled in, and difpofed in a neat, and perhaps 
elegant manner ; but it is, I think, too formal 
to be pleafing. On one fide is a fmall alcove, 
and the flowers here, as well as in the conferva- 
tory, are kept with great care. 

Skirted the edge of the water, among large 
rocks, and maffes of blue (lone ; and afcended 
towards tl,e north, with the river foaming and 
roaring beneath our feet. 

A fmall ruftic building, furnimed with a feat, 
feems to terminate the walk; but the moment 
you reach it, a fine cafcade is feen burfting into 
the valley, between the trees ; and though the 
height of the fall is not confiderable, the effect 
produced is wonderfully (hiking ; the ftream 

being 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 33 

being very rapid, and the furrounding fcenery 
highly romantic. 

Crofled the river, and following the windings 
of the path, among the trees, foon came to an- 
other cafcade of great breadth and force, which 
mud be truly grand, when the ftream is aug- 
mented by wintry fhowers ; for it then rifes ten 
or twelve feet above its rocky bed, and fills the 
mind with the fublimeft conceptions which a vio- 
lently agitated and roaring cataracl is capable of 
exciting. 

This part of the garden is full of beauties }.— 
almoft every turning of the river (whofe courfe 
is extremely irregular) presenting a romantic 
water-fall of greater or lefs extent ; and a dou- 
ble diredion being often given to the ftream, 
among the huge ftones at bottom, has a fine 
effeft. 

Here ftands the ftrong bridge of rough ftone, 
before mentioned ; and all its folidity is required, 
to refift, unimpaired, the conflict of the waters, 
which threaten every thing with deftruction ; and 
have even rent afunder the rocks which had 
been made ufe of, as a foundation for the path ; 
as if jealous of the (hanger's eye, and refentful 
K 3 of 



$34 A JOURNEY 

of his intrufion on the fecret beauties of the 
place, 

Afcended through the wood, the fcenery be- 
ing varied by an opening to a naked hill on the 
eafl (which I could not help wifhing to have feen 
crowded with pines) and palled through a mea- 
dow, which brought us to another flream, and 
a narrow cafcade, by whofe fide we climbed up 
a fteep bank, among mofly rocks and precipices, 
till we were again hidden in the wood. 

Crofled a noify brawling flream, by a rural 
bridge, formed of a fingle unhewn tree, care- 
lefsly thrown over it, and guarded by a rude 
railing ; and afcended the oppofite bank, till we. 
feemed to have arrived at the head of the fpring, 
whence the flream originated. 

Here an arch in the rock yawned before us, 
and a fubterranean paffage perforates it ; — the 
darning noife of falling water is heard at a dif- 
tance ; all elfe is folemn flillnefs :— we enter the 
aperture, and are fhrouded, for a moment, in 
total darknefs ; then abruptly turning to the left, 
a bold flream is feen precipitating itfelf from the 
edgQ of a black rock, into a frightful chafm, of 
unknown depth. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. IJ5 

The r pray dafhes into the mouth of the cave,, 
and the ear is (tunned with the roaring of the 
cataract. 

AH rhis is vaftly fine, but the impreffion which 
I fdlt on feeing it, was not equal to what has 
been Jefcribed by other travellers ; for, by fome 
means, the cave leffens the effect of the cafcade, 
which, befides its being thus rendered the fole 
object of contemplation, is cooped up in a nar- 
row corner, and brought too near the fpeclator : 
whereas, if it could have been contrived to have 
fir ft paffed through the rocks, then to have en- 
joyed a peep of day-light, and with it a more 
diftant view of the cataract, falling either amosg 
the trees, or into the mofs-grown valley, the ef- 
fect, in my humble opinion, would have been 
much more (hiking. 

We returned by the fame path, and crofted 
the TJlwith, by another ruftic bridge, clofe to 
a root houfe. 

The river, in this part of its courfe, might, at 
a comparatively trivial expence, be rendered 
highly ornamental to the garden. 

At prefent, it runs murmuring, or rather 

groaning, along a rough and mallow channel, 

which is not often full : with a little trouble, the 

K 4 larger 



136 A Journey 

larger ftones might be removed from the bed df 
the ftream ; and the ground being funk to the 
eafiward, and raifed towards the Chinefe bridge* 
a fine fmooth ferpentine lake might be formed, 
and a large meet of water made to defeend in a 
cafcade, near the bridge* 

The ftillnefs of this part of the river would 
then afford an agreeable contrafl to the reft of 
the fcenery ; and the new cafcade, which would 
differ greatly in fhape from the others, would, I 
think, be a confiderable ornament to the grounds, 
and might be thrown into the view from the front 
of the houfe* 

I hope if thefe remarks fhould ever reach the 
worthy proprietor of Hafod, that he will excufe 
the liberty which I have taken with his premifes* 
and read the fuggeftions which I have ventured 
to make, as rather expreflive of what might be 
done, than as what is necejfary to render his de- 
lightful refidence the glory and admiration of 
Wales. 

Our walk having been protracted to the very 
verge of day-light, we were under the neceffity 
of leaving Hafod, without infpecting the houfe, 
which is faid to contain an epitome of every thing 

ufefulj 



INTO SOUTH WALES. l^J 

ufeful, elegant, and fplendid; and a well-fur- 
nifhed library. 

It has been faid> that travellers have nothing 
to do with the difpofition of thofe, whole houfes 
and grounds are liberally open to the public ; 
and that it is impertinent to meddle with them : 
but I can not avoid thinking, that whenever a 
character is found fo brilliant as to attract, gene- 
ral notice* or fo amiable as to deferve imitation, a 
fervice is rendered to fociety, by that honour- 
able mention which I am about to make of Mr. 
Johnes, whom I can not be fuppofed to flatter, 
becaufe he is an entire ftranger to me, perfonally; 
and whom I can have no inducement to flatter* 
becaufe he will probably ever remain fo. 

The voice of the whole country is loud in his 
praifes, and bears grateful teflimony to the bene- 
volence and charity by which he is diffinguifhed. 

Among innumerable inftances of his regard for 
the comfort of the poor in this neighbourhood, 
there is one which deferves particular notice : it 
is his care for the fick ; who are brought hither, 
once every week, when a gentleman of the fa- 
culty regularly attends, and exhibits fuch medi- 
cines and affiftance as they feverally require, at 
Mr. Jobiies*s expence. 

So 



*3$ A JOURNEY 

So fenfible and beneficial an act of kindnefs, 
deferves to be recorded with a pen of iron ! How 
infinitely fuperior is this to the kitchen phyjic, 
and mifchievous difpenfation of family medicine*, 
which a few great perfons call, and think, cha- 
ritable afliftances to their poor neighbours and 
dependants ; rendered ftill more valuable by its 
being performed in a place where the ftraiten- 
cd finances of the lower orders, can fcarcely, in 
any inftance, procure for them medical advice ; 
\*ho at once fuffer under the prefTure of the mod 
diftrefling calamities, and all the horrors of 
chterlefs poverty. 

JVtr. Johnes was formerly lieutenant-colonel of 
the Cat marthenjhire militia, and although he has 
quitted his public ftation, it is only, that amidfl 
the fweets of this contemplative retirement, he 
may rendtr his country the lefs oftentatious, but 
infinitely more effectual advantages of increafing 
the comfort and happinefs of fociety, by a wide 
diiplay of generofity and beneficence to all around 
Lim : for, as Mr. Pope obferves, " the filent vir- 
" tues of a good man in folitude, are more amW 
<; able than all the noify honours of active life." 

"When we had taken leave of Hafod, we foon 
recovered the road to Aberyjlwhh> and proceed- 
ed 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 139 

ed along it, till we arrived at a narrow pafs be- 
tween the mountains, where the divifion of the 
path threw us into a mofl unpleafant ftate of 
doubt which track we ought to purfue. 

Hitherto, all the way from Hafod, I had been 
meditating on the benevolent difpofition of Mr. 
Jobnes, and revolving in my mind the numerous 
inftances which had been related to us, of his 
regard for the neighbourhood ; but here, thought 
I, might his munificence find an opportunity of 
difplaying itfelf, in a manner highly gratifying to 
the way-worn traveller ; and that at the fmall ex. 
pence of erecting a hand poll, at this divifion of 
the road. 

We luckily took the right-hand courfe, which 
parried us down the mountain, within view of 
innumerable hills, whofe fides were cultivated 
to a great height, and exhibited traces of the 
plough, in fituations, which might have been 
thought perfectly inacceflible. 

In the valley on the right, runs the Mynach y 
a little ftream, fringed with wood ; and we foon 
caught a glimpfe of a flight bridge thrown over 
it, which has been delineated by Mr. Spence and 
others : and afterwards turning to the right, 
pafled the end of what is vulgarly called the De- 
vil's 



140 A JOURNEY 

<vil's Bridge ; but more properly, and by the na- 
tive Welch, Pont-y-Mynach, and arrived at the 
Hafod Arms, a comfortable inn, where every ex- 
ertion of civility concurred with excellent provi- 
fions, to recompence the fatigue of a long jour- 
ney* 



INTO SOUTH WALES. I4I 



CHAP. XIV. 

Hafod-Arms Inn. — Falls of the Rhyddol and the Mynach.— 
Sublime Scenery. — Reflexions. 

The Hafod-Arms has been bulk as a houfe of 
public entertainment by Mr. Johnes. It (lands 
on the brink of a romantic dell, not far from 
the celebrated fall of the Mynach, which has 
engaged the attention of all travellers, fince it 
has become fafhionable to inveftigate the beauties 
of our native country, and near its junction with 
the Rhyddol. 

In front of the principal room a huge chafm 
penetrates into the bofom of the oppofite moun- 
tain, and difplays tne rough furfaces of moiTy 
rocks, vvhofe fummits are clothed with wood. 
A winding road borders the edgQ of it, and foon 
lofes itfelf among the mountains. 

A fmali cafcade ru(hes out of the chafm, and 
foams over the rocky bottom with a hilling noife, 
which juft reaches the ear. On the left, the 
craggy point of a prodigious eminence pierces 
the clouds, — below it, a flender ftreamlet, like a 
4 % 



142 A JOURNEY 

flip of white ribbon, gracefully falls into the' 
valley; while a bird's eye view of fields in tillage* 
and a cottage in the midft, completes afcene, at 
Once grand, rural, and majeftic* 

The gay month of May was ufhered in with 
a mofl gloomy louring morning, — the fcowlihg 
wind roared through the hollow valleys, — the 
dark clouds obfcured the hills, now robing in 
their difmal mantle the fwelling fides of thefe tre. 
mendous mountains, now receding from their 
fummits, and admitting a gleam of funfhine. One 
while descending in rattling fhowers, at another 
time, unfurling their wide extended borders, and 
enveloping the whole fcene before us, in awful 
ffliade. 

The weather becoming more favourable we fet 
out to explore the fcenery of the Devil's Bridge, 
and I can only regret the inadequacy of my pen 
to defcribe what I faw or felt on that occafion. 

The bridge confifts of a fmgle arch, over a 
chafm between two lofty mountains, which are 
covered with wood from their fummit to the 
brink of the Mynach, which ruflies with great 
impetuofity between them ; and of a fecond arch, 
which is made to fpring from the firft, and em- 
bracing a wider fpan, paffes directly over it. 

The 



Into south walks. 143 

The architecture is rude and Umple, but the 
accompaniments are grand beyond defcription. 

Palling the bridge, and turning Jhort on f he 
left, both the arches are in view, and the horrid 
gulph into which the Mynack precipitates itfelf, 
and from whence it falls into the chafm below. 

Taking a fecond path, which leads by a zig- 
zag courfe to a projecting point of the hill, we 
came in view of three cafcades. On the left, 
the great fall of the Mynach, which drops at 
once more than a hundred fett perpendicularly, 
befides feveral fmaller falls, above and below, 
among the rocks. Oppofite, a fine flender eaf- 
cade pouring its tranflucent waters from a ledge 
of rocks into a corner of this romantic valley, 
which is lined on all fides with wood. On the 
right, the bold and impetuous fail of the Rhyd* 
doL 

The furrounding rocks, from among whofe 
crevices innumerable oaks and beech trees fhoot 
forth their waving branches, are covered with 
mofs ; and their fummit rifes to the height of 
more than four hundred feet. 

This accounts for the decepiio vifus in viewing 
the fall of the Rbyddol, from the Hafod-Arms, 
which is infinitely delightful as well as furprifing* 

Returning 



144 ^ A JOURNEY 

Returning about half way up the hill, turned 
to the left, and declined through the wood, pair- 
ing two narrow cafcades, which fall from the 
north-eaftern fide, and arrived at the bed of the 
Rhyddol, which is formed with immenfe blue 
(tones, worn fmooth by the attrition of the 
water. 

Enclofed in this profound folitude, every thing 
around me hufhed into the (tilled filence, except- 
ing the roarings of the cafcade, I had time to 
contemplate the awful projections of the rocks, 
and the luxuriance of the trees which grow from 
their interlaces. 

Creeping along a rude path which has been 
lately made clofe to the river, I came to the ca- 
taract itfelf ; but how altered ! how wonderfully 
changed 1— from the infignificancy of a fall of 
water of a few feet, iiTuing from the narrow cre# 
vice of a rock, into a little bafon among the 
(tones below, it is now a mighty torrent, ruining 
with a thundering noife, out of a tremendous 
chafm, and, after a fall of feveral yards, in which 
it appears folded back in a vaft (heet of foam, 
burying itfelf in a profound abyfs, whofe dark 
furface is fcarcely agitated by the force and 
Weight of this great body of water, 

Never 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 45 

Never can I forget the fenfation which I felt 
in contemplating this folemn and impreflive fcene - 
My foul, filled with rapturous admiration, looked 
4i through nature, up to nature's God." His won- 
derous works, here glorioufly difplayed in fcenery 
fo noble and majeftic, fpake to my inmoft mind ! 
and while I beheld the tranfparent ftream, with 
gratitude to Him who bade thefe waters flow, the 
fun darted its brilliant rays from the edge of a 
black cloud, on the fpot where I flood, and the 
water fparkled with a luflre not to be defcribed, 

I was rivet ted to the place, and experienced 
that thrilling horror, that reverential awe, that 
holy dread, which an affemblage of the grandeft 
fcenery of nature can alone infpirej nor did I 
leave this facred temple of folitude until I had 
humbly adored the Creator and Preferver of all 
around me, — the great, the mighty Lord ! and 
Father of the univerfe ! ! ! 

" Thefe are thy glorious works, parent of good ! 

** Almighty ! thine this univerfal frame, 

<f Thus wond'rous fair ; thyfelf how wond'rous then I 

4i Unfpeakable ! who fitt'fl above thefe heavens, 

" To us invifible ; or dimly feen 

" In thefe thy loweft works : yet thefe declare 

u Thy goodnefs beyond thought, and pow'r divine. 

« Hail! univerfal LORD ! " 

L In 



I46 A JOURNEY 

In my afcent through the woody flope, paffed 
two fmall cafcades, which, though defcending 
with a gentler flream, and over a more gradual 
declivity, are not without their fhare of beauty, 
and pi&urefque effect. Here, having no better 
mode of allaying my third, I laid myfelf flat on 
the ground, and quaffed the health-infpiring 
pellucid beverage, which re-animated me with 
ffrength and fpirits to climb the hill. 

From the fummit, though elevated to fo great 
a height, the view extends no farther than to the 
top of the neighbouring mountains, which en- 
clofe this romantic fpot. The imagination, there- 
fore, can only wander ; the eye is confined to 
thofe objects only, which are prefented in a nar- 
row compafs. Hence it is that they are felt com- 
pletely, and have fo forcible an effect ; becaufe 
there is no diffraction of ideas, by an introduc- 
tion of diflant objects, and the eye " being hin- 
" dered from ranging, the mind is forced to find 
^ entertainment for itfelf." 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 14/ 



CHAP. XV. 

Plinllimmon. — Gradual Afcent* — Turf Cottages. — Miferahlc 
Life of the Shepherds. — Pe?it-y-P/inI/immon> — EffeclsofWar. 

P linllimmon Hill is fo highly deferving of a 
traveller's attention, that it was one of the prin- 
cipal objects which engaged my thoughts and 
expectations on coming into Wales \ but it fo fel- 
dom happens that its fummit is fairly out of the 
clouds, that he is peculiarly fortunate who has 
an opportunity of feeing this prince of hills, when 
the weather will permit him to enjoy the profpecl; 
which it commands. 

I was not one of thofe fortunate travellers, for 
although the weather was fine, and the fun fnone 
with great brilliancy, before I fet out, with an in- 
tention to afcend it, the clouds foon gathered and 
enveloped not only the fugar loaf, but the great 
fummit of the mountain, in an impenetrable fog. 

We left the Hafod»Arms early in the afternoon, 

with a defire to enjoy, from the top of Plinllim- 

mon 9 the profpecl: of the fetting fun, the moil 

beautiful object in nature ; and, I mould fuppofe, 

L 2 feen 



I48 A JOURNEY 

feen from that elevated fituation to the greateft 
advantage. 

Having afcended from the fummit of the hills 
which we had juft: pafled to a ftill higher 
point, we entered on a road enclofed between 
two hedges, which was fo good and fo level that 
I could have fancied myfelf in England^ if the 
bold craggy mountains around us, had not for- 
bidden it. 

Parted a little church, which feemed to be 
without bells, there being an empty cupola on 
the roof, which was deftitute of a tower. One 
large unhewn (lone, about feven feet high was 
placed on the north fide of the church-yard, but 
as I could not obtain any account of it, I cannot 
convey any information about it. 

We next afcended by the fide of the moun- 
tains, having in perfpective, here and there, a 
farm houfe, or a neat cottage. 

Marks of cultivation alfo appeared ; but not a 
tree is to be feen, excepting about the doors of 
fome of the fmall farm-houfes. The foil is un- 
doubtedly capable of cultivation, but there are 
neither orchards nor gardens. 

The Rhyddol winds on the left among boggy 
&nd fpo^gy ground, which blackens the profpect; 

and 



INTO SOUTH WALES. p 1 49 

and we crofled a fmall dream, which defcending 
by a tortuous courfe through a valley on the 
right, unites with the Rbyddol below. 

Here we faw a cottage, or rather cairn, com- 
pletely formed of turf, and covered with the 
fame. A ftone ferved for the window mutter, 
and the door was of wicker work. 

It appeared to be the common habitation of a 
peafant's family, with their ducks, dogs, and 
fowls; and gave us no very high idea of the clean- 
linefs or comforts of the mountaineers. It how- 
ever ferves to fhew the ftrength of that attach- 
ment which binds men to their native wilds, and 
enables them to refift the allurements of curiofity, 
and the temptations of emigration. 

Thus it is, that 

<( The fwarthy Indian, blackening at the line, 
tf Boafts of his golden fands, and palmy wine, 
" Bafks in the glare, or items the chryftal wave, 
c * And thanks his Gods for all the good they gave. 
<f The fhiv'ring tenant of the frigid zone 
xe Boldly proclaims the happieft land his own. 
" Dear is that fhed to which his foul conforms, 
V And dear that hill which lifts him to the ftorms. 
<e And as a babe, when fearing founds moleft, 
(l Clings clofe and clofer to its mother's bread, 
" So the loud tempeft, and the whirlwinds roar, 
•' But bind him to his native rocks the more!" 

L 3 There 



I^O A JOURNEY 

There appears, about thefe parts, a fpecies of 
incipient cultivation and induilry, which, if po- 
pulation were to increafe in any great degree, 
might be the fource of much advantage to the 
country. They begin to enclofe large pieces of 
ground, with walls of turf, which ferve as a 
commodious flicker to the young lambs, and 
enable the fhepherds* dogs to defend them in 
greater fecurity from the drepredations of foxes, 
which are very numerous among the rocks. 

Thoufands of acres which have now the ap- 
pearance of bog, and remain entirely ufelefs and 
unproductive, might, by a little attention and the 
exertions of a few fpirited individuals, be turned 
to good account \ and indeed I fee no reafon 
why the eftablifliment of manufactories' might 
not be effected. 

Abundance of wool might be obtained from 
fome parts of this extenfive diftricl:, if thrown 
into cultivation ; there are already ample dreams 
for any manufacturing purpofe, and thefe would 
be increafed by draining the bogs and marfhy 
ground; and the diftance to Abcryjiwith is only 
about twelve or fifteen miles, from whence the 
produce of a factory might find its way to any 
part of England, by water. Befides all which, 

it 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 151 

it is mod probable that a variety of valuable mi- 
nerals might be difcovered in the interior of the 
mountains, which would amply recompence the 
undertakers for their trouble. 

At prefent, a fhepherd who porTeifes a hundred 
fheep, though really not poor, is truly wretched 
and miferable. His children want all the bene- 
fits of inftruct-ion, and the comforts of food and 
raiment. Thus forlorn, and almoft hopelefs, 
they are compelled to wander, by neceffity, and 
become emigrants, in fpite of the force of do- 
meftic attachment. 

Every little family has fome hiftory to relate 
in corroboration of this melancholy truth - 9 and 
the " long dark winter's night," inflead of being 
beguiled by the jocund tale of feftivity, and the 
fportivenefs of ruftic merriment, is faddened by 
recapitulating the hardfhips to Which the darling 
child may be expofed in a foreign clime, who 
has been feduced from his native home by arti- 
fice and entreaty, or driven from thence by the 
keen oppreflions of poverty and wretchednefs. 

Having afcended the deep fide of another lofty 
mountain, we came to the banks of a fmall river, 
which runs to the eafhvard, in a contrary direc- 
tion to the couife of the Rhyddol 9 which we had 
lately paffed. 

L 4 Tbi* 



l$l A JOURNEY 

This fpot, though elevated as high as the tops' 
of the neighbouring mountains, is called the foot 
of Plinllimmon ; and the little river, which is, 
I believe, named the Dovey, feparates the county 
of Cardigan from Montgomeryjhire. 

We had bQQii directed to enquire for a guide 
to the heights of Plinllimmon, at a cottage near 
this flream, but there we only found four or five 
children, in a ftate of the extremeft poverty and 
filth which can be imagined ; not one of whom 
could fpeak a word of Englijh, and from whom 
it was therefore impoffible for us to derive any 
imiructions about the road. 

Chagrined at this unexpected difappointment, 
for we had not previoufly calculated the degree 
of probability which there was of the inhabitants 
cf the cottage being from home, it only remained 
for us to fet our faces towards the defert which 
we had jufl: paffed, and to return to the Hafod 
Arms ; for we well knew that the mountain was 
too full of deep bogs for r.s to venture or attempt 
to afcend without a guide, even if we could have 
fecured our horfes in the mean time ; which, as 
there was neither hedge nor tree to be feen, would 
have been a rather difficult matter. 

We 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 53 

We rode back for about a mile, when we 
luckily met a fhepherd and his boy driving their 
flock homeward ; and as there was dill fufficient 
time for enjoying the grand and extenfive prof- 
peel: which the clearnefs of the evening feemed. 
to promife, we foon bargained with the fhepherd 
to attend us to the fummit of the mountain, or, 
as he called it, Pent-y-PUnUimmon. 

When our guide had conducted his flock to a 
fhed, and fecured them for the night, and had 
put on his fhoes, (for, in order to fave them, thefe 
poor people tread the mountains barefoot, all day 
long) we fet forward, and by an eafy afcent, 
which did not once occafion us to flop for breath, 
in lefs than an hour arrived at the bafis of the 
cone which forms the cap or fummit of Plinllim- 
mon> noticing by the way, the birth of the 6V- 
vem, the Wye> and the Rhyddol, which owe their 
origin to this vaft refervoir of fprings, — this trea- 
fury of hidden waters ! 

It may not be improper to remark, that not- 
withftanding the immenfe height of PlinHimmon 9 
we faw not one of the cliffs which Mrs. Piozzi 
has introduced in her Travels, by way of ' ftmile ; 
nor were there any of her " goats to clamber 
" among them." 

The 



154 A JOURNEY 

The furface of the lower parts of the mountain 
is either covered with foft mofly turf, and low 
heath, or broken with rugged and tremendous 
bogs ; but now we had reached a diftrict entirely 
overfpread with (tones, fome lying loofe on the 
ground, others, the denuded points and protu- 
berances of vaft and folid rocks, the native body 
of the hill ; and thefe being almoft as white as 
the fnow which lay in broad patches among them, 
gave that general whitenefs to the mountain 
which attracted our notice from the eminence 
on the road near Rhyadergowy. 

Here the afcent became more difficult, but it 
was foon accomplifhed, and we found ourfelves, 
at once, on the fummit of the mountain, and 
enveloped in a thick fog, which was utterly im- 
penetrable : — nor did we feem likely to have the 
fmalleft chance of obtaining- a view of a fingle 
object befides a rude pyramid of loofe ftones, 
which fome induftrious travellers had taken the 
trouble to pile up on the eaft end of the peak. 

Although the mill feemed to be driving by us 
with great rapidity, we were Hill involved in 
" clouds and thick darknefs j ,J and even when 
this preflure was in fome degree iefTened, and they 
receded a little from the cap of the mountain, 

we 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 155 

we had yet between us and the nether world, a 
fea of clouds rolling at our feet, which completely 
obftructed the profpecl:. 

We could only lament our ill fortune, as many 
others had done before us, and after fome time 
fpent in unavailing murmurs, we defcended the 
hill, and returned to the fhepherd's cottage. 

The infide of this hut was a melancholy fpeci- 
men of poverty, filth, and idlenefs, there being 
fcarcely a pane of glafs in the fmall window, 
which, if entire, would have admitted only a few 
rays of light ; — not a chair to fit on, — nor, in 
fhort, one fingle comfort to cheer the wretched 
exigence of its miferable inhabitants. 

A fire of turf, indeed, there was, which near- 
ly produced fuffocation ; but fuch a piclure of 
wretchednefs I fcarcely ever beheld. And yet, 
this man mould not be accounted poor, for he 
told me he had more than a hundred fheep on 
the mountains, and no rent to pay. 

He peftered us with queftions about the war 
and public affairs, which naturally excited our 
furprife; for, in this remote fituation, and ap- 
parently exempt from thofe burdens whofe pref- 
fure on the inhabitants of the county in general, 
compels them to turn their thoughts to thefe 

fubjecls, 



1$6 A JOURNEY 

fubjects, we could not conceive bow he mould 
be much interefted about them, till he told us, 
with tears in his eyes, that his eldeft fon, the 
pride of his hopes, and the comfort of his de- 
clining years, had been feduced from his home, 
by the flattering temptation of a large bounty, 
offered him by a recruiting ferjeant ; enlifted, and 
fhipped off to the Weft Indies about two years 
ago ; — fince which time he had never heard whe- 
ther he was ftill alive, in the glittering chains of 
military bondage, or had fallen a victim to the 
deftructive ravages of the fever by which fo 
many of his unfortunate comrades had pe- 
rifhed. 

" He was," faid the old man, " always a very 
<c dutiful lad till he enlifted, and my heart bleeds 
" to think what my poor boy may be expofed 
* c to in a foreign country, and without one pity- 
" ing friend to aiTift him." 

This moving tale, told with all the unaffected 
fimplicity of truth, made a ftrong impreffion. 

Accurfed war ! offspring of ambition ! the 
fcourge of nations ! and the violator of harmony 
and love ! .^ *# 

When (hall the joys of tranquillity and peace 

revifit our; land ? When fhall the murdering 

15 fword 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 57 

fword be fheathed, and the horrors of its fan- 
guinary vengeance forgotten ? 

Alas ! the memory of thy calamities will en- 
dure to diftant ages ; for what can wipe away 
the melancholy remembrance of the bell hopes 
of families cut off, — the fole fupporters of aged 
parents torn from their cottages, — the feparation 
of fathers from children, — and the diffolution of 
the Hill ftronger bonds of conjugal affection and 
endearment. 

Thefe are fufFerings not to be recompenfed 
by all the glory and'fplendour of victorious tri- 
umphs. 

The furviving conquerors may indeed, when 
proudly exulting in their fucceffes, vouchfafe a 
figh to the memory of the brave men who have 
fought under their banners, and perifhed in the 
day of battle. 

" The tendered tears which fall for the de- 
" parted," may be " thofe with which Heaven 
<< bedews the unburied head of a foldier ;" but 
can thefe mitigate the forrows of the parent, the 
widow, or the orphan? Can thefe compenfate 
for the days, and months, and years of pain, 
anxiety, and diftrefs, which have been their 
wretched portion ? will the exulting plaudits of 

feftive 



I58 A JOURNEY 

feftive celebration delight thofe ears which have 
been fo long fhut to every found, but the voice 
of mourning? Or fhall gaudy pageants pleafe 
that eye which opens only to ftream with forrow, 
and to contemplate misfortune. By thefe the 
glad tidings of Peace itfelf will be heard with di- 
miniflied rapture, for its bleffings, though long 
and ardently defired, arrive too late. The ten- 
der partner, whofe prefence would have given 
a zed to the joyful event, returns no more ! he 
lies unburied on a far diftant coaft, or is over, 
whelmed in the great abyfs ! He blefTes not again 
the arms of his dearefl relatives, but is become 
* c the kindred of corruption. " The victor's orna- 
ments were prepared for him, and the couch of 
repofe was provided ; but the cold earth is now 
his pillow, and he ileeps on the bed of death. 

" O ! grant it heaven, that our long woes may ceafe, 
* f And Britain's daughters tafte the calm of peace ; 
♦*" Sons, brothers, hufbands, to bewail no more, 
" Tortur'd at home, or havock'd in the war/' 

" O lovely Peace! with plenty crowned, 

tl Come fried thy bleffings all around; 

" Let fleecy flocks the hills adorn, 

*' And vallies fmile with wavy corn : 



Let 



INTO SOUTH WALES. I59 

* ( Let the flirill trumpet ceafe, nor other found 
sc But nature's fongfters wake the cheerful morn." 

We returned to the Hafod Arms, flept there 
the following night, and the next day proceeded 
to Aberyjlwitb, 



100 A JOURNEY 



CHAP. XVI. 

Road from Pont-y-Mynach to Aberyjlwith. — Aberyjlivith Caf<* 
tie. — The RhyddoL — Sun Jetting* — Aberarth. — French Ik* 
vafion. 

The diflance from the Hafod-Arms to Aberyjl* 
with, is twelve miles. 

The road afcends feverai high hills, and pre- 
fents various interefting profpects of a mountain- 
ous country on the left. 

About three miles from the Devil's Bridge the 
fea makes its firft appearance, and becomes an 
occafional feature in the picture which is pre* 
fented from the fummit of the hills we afterwards 
pa!Ted. 

A valley on the right is full of cultivated fields, 
and adorned with the meanders of the Rhyddol> 
which may be traced for four or five miles. The 
ilream is of a handfome breadth, and bordered 
with farms and cottages. 

The eye darts acrofs part of the great bay of 
Cardigan, catches a diftant view of the precipi- 
tous 



INTO SOUTH WALES. \6l 

tous mountain of Cader Idris, and reds on the 
abrupt fummits of the Merionythjhire hills. 

A bridge of four arches is feen over the Rhyd* 
dot, at about a mile from its influx to the fea ; 
and not far from it is a ruinous building, which 
appears to have enclofed a fquare area ; and has 
(till remaining a large tower at one of the angles. 
The name of this fortification is pronounced 
Place-crug. 

On the oppofite fide of the river is the town 
of Llanbadern-vawr, with its ancient church, 
formerly a cathedral. 

Aber fignifying, in the Britijh language, the 
mouth of a river : the town of Aberyjiwith ought 
rather to have been called Aber-rhyddol, both be« 
caufe the Rhyddol difembogues itfelf into the fea 
at this place, as well as the TJlwith ; and alfo, 
that it is the larger of the two ftreams. , 

An elegant flone bridge is building at the en- 
trance of the town, the houfes of which begin to 
attract a traveller's notice, at about two miles 
diltant. 

The ftreets of Aberyjiwith are irregularly built, 
and the Hated roofs of the houfes appear remark- 
ably clumfy. If is, however, a pretty large 
M town, 



\6l A JOURNEY 

town, and is much reforted to, for the purpofe 
of fea-bathing. 

The caftle, which was the refidence of Cad* 
walader^ Lord of Cardigan, (who was cruelly- 
murdered by an Englijh efcort, on his return 
from the court of Henry the fecond,) (lands on 
the eaft fide of the town, elevated on a rock, 
whofe foot is waflied by the fea. 

The tottering remains of this once magnificent 
and formidable building, conftitute a piclurefque 
ruin ; and proudly afTert their right to the ho- 
nours of high and refpeclable antiquity. 

The ditch which formerly defended the caftle 
on the fide towards the town, may be (till traced ; 
but it is difficult to fay what might have been 
the original form of the works. Part of the 
wall of a round tower, at the fouth-weft angle, 
is (till (landing, but (hivered in a mod awful 
manner. 

" What art thou, Grandeur! with thy flatt'nng- train 

" Of pompous lies, and boaftful promifes ? 

" Where are they now, and what 's their mighty fum I 

6i All, all are vanifh'd ! like the fleeting forms, 

" Drawn in an evening cloud. Nought now remains, 

" Save thefe fad relics of departed pomp, 

" Thefe fpoils of time, a monumental pile ! 

<' Which, 



INTO SOUTH WALES. l6$ 

ci "Which, to the vain, its mournful tale relates, 
" And warns them not to truft to tranfient dreams." 

The mafTive fragments which are feathered 
over the area, have a noble effect ; and a gravel 
walk has been made among the ruins by Uvedale 
Price Efq. the proprietor of a whimfical caitel- 
lated man (ion near the (pot, and author of an in- 
genious "Effayon the Piclurefque." 

On the north-weft is part of a tower, about 
forty feet high, and the arched door-way, or 
paffage through it, is (till preferved ; as is alfo 
a large fragment of a great round tower, in which 
the mark of an arched gate, feveral windows, 
and fire places, are frill vifible. Another tower 
has been repaired, and converted into a profpecl 
room, which commands a view of the fea, and 
its fine bold fhore,. as far as the northern horn 
of the bay of Cardigan. 

Every attempt to plant this interefling fpot, 
has been hitherto unfuccefsful ; the violence of 
the winds, and the faline breezes, being highly 
injurious to vegetation. 

Near the entrance to the caftle, and on its 
eaftern fide, is the church, or rather chapel ; a 
modern edifice, deftitute of a fpire, and very 
meanly built. 

Ma A very 



164. A JOURNEY 

A very fiovenly mafonry is, indeed generally 
prevalent, and the roofs of many of the houfes 
are daubed all over with plafler, which gives 
them a difgufting appearance. 

The market houfe, in the middle of the town, 
iSj however, handfomely built, and has fafh win- 
dows in the upper ftory, and iron gates below. 

Leaving Aberyftwith, and having the fea on 
our right, we afcended a hill, where . the marks 
of the plough befpeak an increafing induftry. 
Soon afterwards crofled the Tftwith, by a ro- 
mantic bridge, half covered with ivy. 

Near this part of the road formerly flood a 
druidical altar. The upright flones only remain, 
the top, or altar covering, having been ( I had 
almoft faid facrilegioufly) deilroyed, by the more 
than gothic barbarity of fome ignorant, or cove- 
tous perfon, who wanted to make ufe of it, in 
building a liable. 

ParTed a village only remarkable for having a 
church, with a chancel and tower. 

The places of worlhip which I had lately feen 
in this part of the country, excepting the old 
church at Llanbadern vawr, are generally cover- 
ed with one roof, and the bell is placed in a kind 
of open turret, or cupola, on the weft end. 

Here 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 65 

Here are two bells, hung in the accuftomed 
manner ; but the turret (lands on the eaft, in- 
ilead of the weft end of the body of the church ; 
and contiguous to the chancel. The tower bears 
the appearance of great antiquity : it is fquare, 
with the fummit abruptly broken off, and with- 
out battlements ; the bafis being conMderably 
larger than the upper part, which deviation from 
the ufual ftyle occurs alfo in the very old church 
of St. Peter, at Oxford, founded fo early as the 
year 886. 

The church and chancel, agreeable to the 
fafhion of this part of the country, are complete- 
ly white-walhed over, even to the very roof; but 
the tower has been fuffered to retain its .original, 
and more venerable appearance. This edifice is 
fituated on a piece of flat ground, between two 
mountainous eminences, near the fea-fhore. 

The road, afterwards, palling over marfhy 
ground, has been with great difficulty rendered 
firm , and the efforts uled for that purpofe have 
made it highly unpleafant to the traveller ; for 
it is literally paved with rough ftones, and re- 
fembles fome of thofe break-neck ftreets, which 
occafionally difgrace a country town. 

M3 We 



l66 • A JOURNEY 

We had a lofty mountain on the left, and fer- 
tile well-cultivated fields on the oppofite fide, be- 
tween the road and the fea. 

Another village foon offered itfelf to our no- 
tice, whofe church Handing near enough to the 
fea-iide for a land mark, has its tower more ap- 
propriately white-warned. 

The fun darted on us his parting rays, and I 
once more faw that glorious luminary fink into 
the ocean, gilding both waves and clouds with 
the moil ftriking and beautiful colours. 

" Behold, quhow Phehus downcaft dois difcend, 
*' Toward his palice in the Occident ! '* 

*' Low walks the fun, and broadens by degrees, 
* e JVjfft o'er the verge of day. The (hifting clouds 
" Affembied gay, .a richly gorgeous train, 
" In all their pomp attend his fetting throne ; 
" Air, earth, and ocean fmile immenfe. And now, 
" As if his weary chariot fought the bowers 
(( Of Jmphitrite, and her tending nymphs, 
" (So Grecian fable fung) he dips his orb ; 
«* Now half immers'd, and now a golden curve, 
ii Gives one bright glance, then total difappears. 5 * 

We had yet more hills to climb up, and to 
defcend, before we reached Aberayron, the place 
where we defigned to fleep \ and rode through 

the 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 167 

the village of Aberarth, which was the neateft, 
moft rural, and interefting I faw in Wales. The 
cottages are placed in the fimpleft ftyle of irre- 
gularity which can be imagined. They are all 
accurately clean, built with ftone, and not like 
Welch cottages in general, covered with turf, but 
with the fmootheft thatch, remarkably well laid 
on : and I could not help thinking of the defcrip- 
tion of the village of Brock, in Holland, given by 
Madame Genlis, in her letters : — " The orna- 
" menting their houfes is the greateft plea- 
" fure which they know ; the living in peace 
" and union with each other, the only happi- 
" nefs of which they can form an idea. 

" This village offers a picture, which I have 
cc not feen any where elfe \ for it has not a fin- 
" gle made : there is not one difagreeable or 
" unhappy object to fpoil it ; not a (ingle crip- 
fi pie ; not an infirm old perfon ; not a houfe 
" that feems to want repair. 

" Good health, the little comforts of eafy cir- 
" cumftances, the elegancies of induftry and 
" neatnefs, fimplicity, fincerity, virtue, and 
" happinefs ; thefe are the bleffings and the 
iC . images." 

M4 The 



I 63 A JOURNEY 

The .women throughout the northern part of 
Cardigan/hire, were dreffed in blue jackets, with 
petticoats of the fame colour ; and fometimes 
the addition of a blue rug, over the (houlders. 
About the middle of the county, their appear- 
ance began to vary. The blue mantle gave place 
to white ; and in a few inftances to red ones : 
and as we approached nearer the town of Car- 
digan, the number of the former dimimfhed, and 
the latter increafed. 

In the vicinity of Aberarth we faw fome of the 
worded, of which thefe mantles are made, juft 
after it had undergone the procefs of dying. 

It is to the lingular appearance of the females 
of this country, thus adorned, that they afcribe 
the fudden panic with which the French invaders 
were (truck, when they had effe&ed a landing at 
Fifpguard Bay. M. Tate, who, with a handful 
of men, was bold enough to expofe himfeJf and 
his feeble train to certain and inevitable dellruc- 
tion, and audacious enough to fuppofe himfelf 
caoable of holding, or at lead of atTuming a pod 
to which the difajfecled might refort, and where 
they might make a (land, till frefh afMance and 
additional fuccours could arrive from France, 
{laving gained the fummit of a lofty eminence 

near 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 169 

near Fiftiguard, was aftonimed at the military 
appearance of the oppofite hill, which he foon 
beheld covered, as he thought, with foldiers, 
but who were, in fact, only a hod of Wekh wo- 
men, prompted, fome by courage, fome by Cu- 
liofitv, and others by apprehenfion, to recon- 
noitre the enemy ; but thefe Cambrian Amazons 
having on their red mantles, (Iruck a terror into 
the French^ whofe general immediately waited on 
Lord Cawdor, commanding officer of the mill-* 
tary force Rationed neareft to the fpot, and fur- 
rendered himfelf a prifoner at difcretion. 



I/O A JOURNEY 



CHAP. XVII. 



Aterayron.— Llangronog JVe<w Inn.-—Cajiellyn DoUg.~— Car- 
digan. — The Bridge.-— The Cajlle — and the Market. 

The inn called Aberayron is a fmall but excel- 
lent houfe of accommodation, kept by a very in- 
telligent perfon, to whom I am indebted for an 
mterefting and circumfiantial account of many 
of the fcenes to be met with in Wales. 

The road to Cardigan^ from which this place 
is twenty-two miles diftant, after paffing one 
high hill, which prefents a pleafing view of the 
£ea, with a retrofpecl along the coall of Cardigan 
Bay, to the town of Aberyftwithy becomes dull 
and uninterefting. 

From another hill there is a fecond view of 
the bay, which was the only object worthy of 
notice, till we arrived at Llangronog New Inn, 
about half way from Aberayron tp Cardigan. 

The country here is in general cultivated, and 
the tuif banks which feparate the fields, are top- 
ped with thin hedge-rows. 

Cq/iell yn Do 'ig is about two miles farther on ; 
it is evidently the remains of a Britifh encamp- 
ment, 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 171 

ment, of very large fize. The exact form can 
not, at this time, be afcertained, the embank- 
ments having been deftroyed in feveral places, 
and the area eroded and interfered by the turf 
enclofures of the fields. 

The turnpike road paries over the fouthem 
fide of this fortification, and the changes which 
are perpetually making in the furface of the 
ground, will foon wear out every trace of its 
original lineaments. The fpot may, however, con- 
tinue to be marked, fo long as a clump of fir 
trees (hall remain, which have been planted 
within the outer vallum. 

There is alfo another, but fmalier encamp- 
ment, clofe to the fide of the road, from which 
we again enjoyed a view of the fea. 

*' O ! Ocean ! thou guardian and friend to mankind, 
•• To the beft of thy favours, how many are blind! 
" The merchant, who cares but to live by himfelf, 
M Extols thee for floating home coffers of pelf. 
" The alderman pours out his thanks to his God, 
•• Who flock'd thee with falmon with turbot and cod : 
" The fcnolar who knows not the bleffings of home, 
'< Sings thy waves fo tranfporting, which grant him to 

" roam, 
(t And mew him old Peloponnefus, at Rome, 
** Which lead him to climes, fam'd for Pompeys and Neros, 
i( And bring him to plains trod by confuls and heroes ; 

« While 



i: 

i 



I7'2 A JOURNEY 

*< While philofophers poring from* midnight to noon, 
" Make us ftare with their tales of thy jig to the moon." 

Near Cardigan we had a pleafing profpect of 
the rich and fertile valley, through which the 
noble Teivy winds its romantic courfe. 

At the entrance of the town is the county gaol, 
a ftone building, clofe to the road. The flreets 
are indifferently well built, and there is a good 
market houfe, and a town hall over it, fupport- 
ed by arches. 

The beft view of Cardigan is from the fouthern 
bank of the Teivy 9 on which I took my ftand 
juft at fun fetting. On my left was a fine old 
bridge of five arches, with ftrong angular pro- 
jecting piers; contiguous to it are the ruinous 
walls and towers of the ancient caftle, mantled 
with ivy, (landing on the very brink of the ri- 
ver : and the town of Cardigan, with its modern 
built and {lately prifon. On the eaft a large and 
venerable church, elevated on a rock, and fur- 
rounded by luxuriant elms, was a fine addition 
to the delightful fcene. 

A fw^lling hill, behind which the fun had juft 
declined, bounds the profpeft on the weft ; as 

« does 



INTO SOUTH WALES. I 73 

does a bold eminence on the eaft, at about the 
diftance of two miles. 

The river, of a noble breadth, placid as the 
gentle zephyrs which played around us, was 
fcarcely perceived to flow ; and reflected on its 
dill and polifhed furface all the objects which I 
have enumerated, with the glowing tints left 011 
the clouds by the fetting fun, the fmall craft 
below the bridge, and its own well-wooded 
banks. 

In fhort, I never yet faw a confined landfcape 
poflefTed of more ftriking beauties, or better 
adapted for the pencil. It is, however, much 
to be wifhed, that the cuftom fo prevalent in 
this part of the country, of white- warning the 
roofs as well as fi de-walls of the houfes, were 
abolifhed : it offends the eye by a glare highly 
unpleafant ; deflroys the harmony of the picture, 
and, if I may be allowed the expreffion, impo- 
verifhes the profpect. 

Why it fhould fo happen, I can not pofiibly 
fay ; but all the inhabitants of the fea coafls feems 
to entertain the fame tafle, with refpect to archi- 
tecture and building. 

The inhabitants of Plymouth, Stonehoufe, and 
the neighbouring places on the coafi of Devon* 

Jhire, 



174 A JOURNEY 

Jhire, all adopt the fame hideous cuftom of white- 
warning, which is only admiflible when applied 
to fingle cottages, in detached fituations ; and 
where they are contrafted with a great extent of 
green, in the neighbouring fields, downs, or 
fore ft. 

Cardigan is called by the Welch, Aberteivy. 
The caftle, whofe remains are now inconfider- 
able, was once a very fpacious building. It is 
mentioned as early as 1 105, when Robert, Duke 
of Normandy, fecond fon of William the Conque- 
ror, was irnprifoned in it, after his defeat by his 
brother, King Henry the firft ; who barbarouily 
caufed his eyes to be put out, for having at- 
tempted his efcape. 

It was in this building that Rhys ap Gryffydh, 
Prince of South Wales, made a great feaft, to 
which all the bards of the principality were in- 
vited, in order to exercife their feveral talents. 
The harmony has been long forgotten, and a 
fcene of melancholy defolation has fucceeded. 

" No more the manfion of delight, 
" Cynddylan's hall Is dark to-night ; 
" Nor more the midnight hour prolongs, 
" With fires, and lamps, and feftive fongs, 
w Its trembling bards afflicted mun, 
(i The hall bereay'd of C$ndr<wyrC$ fon ! 

« Its 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 175 

<c Its joyous viiitants are fled, 

" Its hofpitable fires arc dead ; 

" No longer rang'd on either hand, 

" Its dormitory couches (land : 

" But all above, around, below, 

" Dread fighs, dire founds, and fliricks of woe." 



In the morning, when we came down ftairs, 
at the inn, I was rather furprifed to find a Welch 
maid, bufily employed in varnifhing the doors 
with bloody a procefs which I underftood is fre- 
quently repeated. 

As I do not at all. know the origin or utility 
of this practice, but as I do know the Welch to 
be obftinate cherifhers of fuperftition, I could not 
help thinking it had fome myftery, which is yet 
to be explained ; for when I began to afk ques- 
tions about hv the girl, who was engaged in this 
extraordinary employment, ran away. in a great 
hurry. I mention the cir cum (lance, however, 
becaufe " local cuftoms and ufages are generally 
<c founded on fome ancient fact, and ferve to 
" guide us back to truth ; and as aids to tradi- 
*" tion, are its moil faithful interpreters." 

It was market day ; and by nine o'clock the 
ilreets were full of people ; of whom, by far the 
greater number were females. 

5 The 



Ij6 A JOURNEY 

' The commodities expofed for fale, befides farn- 
ples of grain, very fparingly produced, were fowls 
at a great age ; chickens, about the fize of pi- 
geons ; butter, eggs, a few ducks, and fome ve- 
getables. But the fight which appeared to me 
the mod extraordinary was, the abundant quan- 
tity of veal, which is brought hither, in whole 
carcafes, reeking from the knife. 

I reckoned more than forty calves lying in the 
ftreets, with the frefh and gory wound in their 
necks ; and while the butchers were waiting for 
cuflomers at their Halls, they employed them- 
felves in flaying and dr effing their veal. 

I did not hear any particular reafon affigned 
for their bringing the carcafes with the fkin on ; 
but conjecture that it may be to fave trouble, as 
well as time ; for it would be extremely difficult, 
in this mountainous country, for the butchers 
to convey fo many calves, when cut out in joints, 
and ready for fale, to the markets, on account of 
their bulk : but when covered with the fkin, they 
can bundle them up in almoft any^fhape, and 
fatten them on their horfes in almoft any man- 
ner. 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 1 77 



CHAP. XVIII. 

RoadtoNcwcqflle* — River Tehy. — Ancient Cqftle. — Approach 
to Carmarthen* 

The road from Cardigan to Newcqftle, after 
palling a kind of caufeway, raifed by the fide of 
the Teivy, afcends a hill near the feat of Owen 
Lloyd, Efq. a gentleman of very ancient family, 
and great refpec~lability. 

The country around is generally enclofed, 
and the profpect is rendered dreary by the want 
of trees. 

At fome diftance, on the right, are the feat 
and iron-works of Sir Benjamin Hammet, and 
further on, a handfome houfe, embowered 
among plantations. 

The fouth-eaft wind blew very cold over the 
hills, and made the afpecl of the Carmarthen- 
Jhire mountains the more bleak : but the fcene 
fuddenly varied, and after obtaining a tranfient 
glimpfe of a handfome white houfe in a valley, 
on the right, we afcended the fide of a bold emi- 
nence 5 and palling under the fhelter of fome 
N romantic 



tyt A JOURNEY 

romantic rocks, crofTed two bridges, the Iaft of 
which, Pont y Currie, is erected over a broad 
and rapid ftream, which foon unites with the 
beautiful Teivy, whofe meandering courfe, 
among fmall enclofures and verdant meadows, 
is again feen on the right. 

The view of Newcqftk, with the ruins of the 
ancient fortrefs, whence it derives its name, 
Handing on the banks of the Teivy, becomes 
every moment more and more interefting, till 
we at length enter the town, which is fmall and 
irregular. 

There is an old bridge over the Teivy, and 
on the eaft fide a fmall church, near the pic- 
turefque ruins of the caftle. 

The Teivy (which flows into the valley, from 
the eaft), when it arrives near this place, makes 
an abrupt turn, as it were, back again, and 
forms a fort of peninfula, on which the caftle is 
fituated, with a beautiful meadow between it and 
the river \ and then turning again to the weft, 
rolls through a rocky channel, and under the 
bridge before mentioned. 

The caftle appears highly venerable in its 
ruins ; for having been conftrucled of the flate- 
ftone, fo abundant in thefe parts, all the win- 
dows, door-ways, and other apertures, are 

fringed 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 179 

fringed by the roughnefs of the thin layers 
which compofe the walls. 

The principal entrance is by an arch, at lead* 
twelve feet high, placed between two oclagon 
towers, perfectly correfpondent in fize and ap- 
pearance ; and with two windows remaining in 
each. 

On the right is a fquare tower, with fome win- 
dows and a door-way ; and the fhape of the whole 
fortrefs (which feems to have been very regular) 
may be traced without difficulty. 

Its origin is undoubtedly of great antiquity ; 
but the building feems to have affumed its pre- 
fent form, as well as its name, in the reign of 
Henry the feventh : when it was repaired by Rhys 
ap Thomas ^ a partizan of that monarch, when 
Earl of Richmond ; who, on coming to the crown, 
made him a knight of the garter. 

Some gold and filver coins have been difco- 
vered at different times ; but I heard of none 
now remaining in the neighbourhood. 

A fword was alfo faid to be in the pofTefiion of 
a farmer, near this place ; and we were induced 
to pay him a vifit, in order to obtain a fight 
of it. 

N2 On 



"I 8bf. A JOURNEY 

On our arrival, however, he had only to flie# 
us a highlander's broad-fword, of the ufual form,, 
which was given to his great grand -father, by 
one of the royalifls, at the garrifon of Newcajlle y 
in the civil wars, in return for fome provifions 
with which he had furnifhed the troops there. 

The man feerned very proud of this valuable 
relic, and boafted not a little of the, pains which 
he faid he had taken to keep it bright j but he 
was not able to afford me the fmaileft degree of 
fatisfa&ion refpe&ing the hiftory of the caftle, 
excepting that he had once heard it belonged to 
an Earl of Carberry. 

I prefume this was Richard, Earl of Carberry y 
who had a feat at Golden Grove, in Carmarthen" 
Jhire, where his lordfhip generouily foftered the 
pious and loyal Bifhop Taylor, during- the rebel- 
lion. The fame nobleman, when he afterwards 
became lord prefident of the marches of Wales , 
patronized Butler, the author of Hudibras. 

Crofiing a few fields from the farm houfe, we 
afcended a high mountain, which afforded an 
agreeable profpect of the town, the river, the 
caftle, and the valley. 

The Telvy yields abundance of trout \ and the 
falmon found in it is famous throughout all 

Wales?. 



INTO SOUTH WALES. l8l 

Wales, where it is preferred to that of the 
Severn. 

The range of mountains which we were now 
to pafs over, was covered with heath "and bogs ; 
but the extent of their fummits is fo considerable, 
that we had none of thofe bold precipices and 
abrupt declivities, which fo romantically orna- 
ment the fcenery in Cardigan/hire, 

The view is very extenfive, and the line by 
which it is bounded is fo bold, that it indeed de- 
ferves to be called a line of beauty : but the eye 
refls too much on the dark heath ; and the bleak- 
nefs of the fituation -rendered the journey over 
thefe eminences fatiguing and unpleafant. 

Though the diftance to Carmarthen is twenty 
miles, no particular objecls worth mentioning 
are prefented, until you have accomplifhed more 
than twelve of them, when a noble eminence fud- 
denly difplays an interefting view of a rich val- 
ley, bounded by the Glanwrgaufhire hills ; the 
town of Kidwelley lying near the fea-fide, and 
the fine arm, or flreight, which receives the ri- 
ver Towey. 

Further on we met with an incredible number 

of young perfons of both fexes, chiefly farmers* 

fervants, and many of them without either fhoes 

N 3 or 



I 82 A JOURNEY 

or (lockings, though indifferently dreffed after 
the fafhion of the country, who were returning 
from the market at Carmarthen, which, at this 
feafon of the year, is very fully attended ; but 
were not gratified with any view of the town, 
until we had nearly approached it ; and then, 
although it feems of confiderable ilze, it does 
not appear to any great advantage. 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 83 



CHAP. XIX. 

Carmarthen. —Bridge. — CaJIle — Rejections* — "The Church* — 
Merlin. 

Carmarthen frands in a vallev, fheltered on 
the north by high and mountainous eminences ; 
and is fituated as to the Towey, precifely in the 
fame manner as Cardigan is to the Teivy. 

The latter, however, is by far the mod noble 
river in breadth, and in the elegance of its banks; 
but the former poffeffes beauties, which perhaps 
compenfate for the want of thofe advantages. 

It meanders more agreeably, and the eye com* 
mands its courfe for miles : whereas the Teivy 
has fcarcely paffed the bridge at Cardigan be- 
fore it difappears, and the firft winding in its 
courfe hides it from the fpeclator's eye for ever. 

The bridge at Carmarthen is of a commodious 
breadth, a circumftance very feldom paralleled 
in old bridges : it has fix arches, befides four or 
five in the parapet at the fouth end, to allow the 
water to pafs, in time of flood, when the mea- 
<Jows are frequently overflowed. 

N 4 The 



184 A JOURNEY 

The caftle once commanded the bridge, and 
protected the town, on the fouth fide, oppofmg 
its formidable and maffive towers to this pafs of 
the river : but it no longer threatens hoflility, 
being now reduced to a (late of utter ruin. 

The period of its erection is uncertain: it 
might probably, however, have been built in 
the reign of the firft William ; and it is certain, 
that it has been expofed to frequent aifaults from 
Griffith ap Rhys, Prince of South Wales, and 
others. 

The county gaol occupies part of the fite, 
and its entrance is handfomely built of hewn 
lione, with iron gratings ; and over the door are 
the horrid, but appropriate decorations of im- 
menfe chains and fetters. 

A row of very mean houfes (lands on the fouth 
fide, and within the area of the old caftle, the 
miferable abode of penury and wretchednefs, — a 
change great and awful ! 

The proud lord, whofe very menials (hone in 
the gaudy trappings of fplendid pomp, reclined 
himfelf within thefe walls. The gilded couch 
was perfumed to receive him ; the minftrel at- 
tuned the harp to " founds of fweeteft melody j M 
and all the foft contrivances of eafe and luxury 

await 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 185 

await his ilumbers, and invite him to repofe. 
cs Here he praifed the trembling lyre, and liftened 
<c to the fongs of heroes !" 

Where now are thefe delights ? Where now 
are thefe " appliances ?" The half ftarved men- 
dicant, and needy cottager extend their rigid or 
enfeebled limbs, on the fqualid bed of mifery 
and indigence : the whittling wind is the difmal 
mufic of their midnight hour ; and the flraw 
pallet, or the rufhy bed, the place of their re- 
pofe. 

The gay delights, the feftive merriment, the 
fplendid pageantry, are fled for ever 1 

The mighty warrior, proudly indignant of 
affronts, and fcarcely fubmitting to the pre-emi- 
nence of kingly power, here quartered the arms 
of liberty, with thofe of courage j and native 
freedom fhone in every action. 

The fcene is now reverfed : the captive in the 
dreary dungeon, loaded with fetters, and op- 
preffed with chains, is doomed in fiient folitude 
to expiate his crimes ; or finks the miferable vic- 
tim of obdurate creditors, torn from the kindred 
arms of love and duty, by the relentlefs violence 
of thofe to whom the tender mercies of the law 
have yielded him a facrifice. 

The 



100 A JOURNEY 

The church is large, but wants the venerable 
ornament of 

i( Storied windows richly dight> 
" Shedding a dim religious light." 

All the folemnity of its appearance having been 
deftroyed by the introduction of faihes, among 
other decorations equally abfurd and incon- 
fiftent. 

The quaint expreffion made ufe of in the 
above couplet is generally underfiood to fignify 
no more than decked or bedizened : it is, how- 
ever, remarkable, that one Walter Dight was 
the author of an old work, on the mode of or- 
namenting windows. 

The county hall is certainly an honour to 
the town ; but there are very few other build- 
ings at all ftriking or elegant: 1 and in a place 
efteemed the capital of South Wales, we really ex- 
pected cleaner inns, and more convenient accom- 
modations. 

The cuftom of intermixing their coal with 
clay, which prevails throughout the country, ren- 
ders the houfes almoft intollerable to thofe who 
have not been ufed to it. Coal is not dear ; but 
ceconomy is one of the mo ft general traits in the 
Welch character ; and as the fire-balls (as they 

call 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 187 

call them) are ftill cheaper than coal alone, peo- 
ple fwallow the naufeous fmoke very patiently, 
and fubmit to almofl fuffocation for the benefit 
of their pocket. 

On the eaft fide of the town, not far from 
the Towey, are the remains of a monadic build- 
ing of confiderable extent. 

Carmarthen was the birth-place of Merlin, 
whofe name is ftill attached to a grove, near the 
banks of the river ; to which fpot he ufed fre- 
quently to retire, and whence his prophetic dif- 
clofures were iiTued, with the greater and more 
imprelTive folemnity. — Merlin was born A. D. 
480. 



l8S A JOURNEY 



CHAP. XX. 

Abergiv'illy. — Coracles. — Line of Beauty. —Dinevaivr Cq/ik. — 
And Park. — Its ancient and prefent fate.— Improvements 
fuggefed. — Remarks. 

Leaving Carmarthen we paMed a neat villa, 
agreeably fituated on a riling ground, which com- 
mands a view of the river Towey, and the fine 
meadows through which it flows. 

A long bridge conducted us to the little town 
of Abergwilly, which is full of public houfes, and 
remarkable only for that circumftance, and the 
refidence of the bifhop of St. David's, whofe 
palace is a fpacious but inelegant building, at the 
eaft end of the village. _ 

The hills which flielter the road on the left, 
are bold and (hiking, and the courfe of the river 
is truly beautiful, rolling through rich meadows, 
or betv/een well wooded Hopes. 

At Abergwllly we faw many of the coracles 
defcribed by Mr. Wyndham, Mr. Warrington, and 
other authors from Giraldus Cambrenfis (who 
wrote a defcription of Wales in the 12th century), 

as 



INTO SOUTH WALES. l8<) 

as being ufed by the inhabitants of this part of 
the country for eroding the rivers and fifhing. 

They are made of a fort of wicker or bafket 
work, and covered with pitched canvas, or a 
raw hide ; — fo that they are fufficiently light to 
be removed from place to place with great eafe 
and celerity; and their appearance is certainly 
not unlike the fhell of a very large turtle, when 
viewed at a diftance, as they are difpofed in rows 
againft the fides of the houfes. 

Thefe coracles have been in ufe without much 
change in their flru&ure, from a very remote 
period, as Lucan's defcription of them applies 
with great exactnefs : 

** Primum can a falix madefaclo vimine parvam, 
** Vertitur in puppim, csefoque indudta juvenco 
*' Ve&oris patiens, tumidum fuperenatat amnem 
€t Sic venetus ftagnante pado, fufoque Britannus 
tf Navigat oceano." &c. 

It was at Abergwilly, where the brave, but 
unfortunate Llewellyn fubdued his rebellious fub- 
jecls, headed by Rhun, a Scotfman ; but he lived 
only a very fhort time to enjoy the tranquillity 
which his unexampled courage had reftored, 
being alTaiTmated by the defendants of Howel 
Lba 9 who had been deprived of their fuccefiion 
to the throne of South Wales. 

15 A few 



19° -A JOURNEY 

A few miles farther on, the fcenery is magn!-» 
ficently grand,— the hills rife with a fine bold 
fwell, and the horizon is marked with a waving 
and flrongly indented line. 

This undulating horizon which is fo juftly ad- 
mired by every perfon of tafte, as conftituting 
the true piclurefque line of beauty, is not for- 
gotten by the poet : 

tl Yon ftream that, wanders down the dale, 
" The fpiral wood, the winding vale, 
*' The path which, wrought with human Hull, 
" Slow twining, climbs yon diftant hill, 
" With fir invefted — all combine 
" To recommend the ivavinjr line* 

" The wreathed rod of Bacchus fair, 
« The ringlets of Apollo's hair, 
" The wand by Maia's offspring borne, 
" The fmooth volutes of Amman's horn, 
*' The ft rupture of the Cyprian dame, 
i( And each fair female's beauteous frame,. 
" Shew to the pupils of defign 
" The triumphs of the waving line" 

An ingenious philofopher has lately fuppofed 
that the origin of that pleafurable fenfation which 
the line of beauty conveys to a man of tafte, is- 
derived from the fymmetry of his mother's bofom;, 
" which," fays he, " the infant embraces with, 
<c his hands, prelTes with his lips, and, watches 

" with 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 19* 

cs with his eyes." The thought is pretty, but 
the idea is furely not correct in its extended fenfe; 
for who will not be tempted to fmile when the 
fame author adds, " in our maturer years w T e 
" feel a glow of delight at foft gradations of 
" rifing and defcending furface, as in the forms 
€t of antique vafes 9 which feems to influence all 
" our fenfes ; and, if the object be not too large, 
<c w r e experience an attraction to embrace it with 
<c our arms, and to falute it with our lips, as we 
" did in our early infancy the bofom of our 
* c mother :" and indeed one might laugh out- 
right, if this were true, to fee the grave pro- 
feffors at Oxford rapturoujly embracing, m their 
reverend arms, the globes at Chrift- church. 

To purfue my journey — In a field on the right 
we faw four large upright (tones remaining of a 
• circle. The ground has been ploughed up, but 
a confiderable degree of elevation is dill to be 
traced where was formerly the fite of the ancient 
enclofure. 

From the hill beyond, we had a charming re- 
trofpedl of the valley and the river, terminated 
by the town of Carmarthen ; — the banks of the 
Towey being every where covered with nodding 
groves, or bedecked with verdant meads. 

De- 



I92 A JOURNEY 

Defcending this hill, we pafTed a bridge, having 
fome fine eminences on the left, rifmg very grace- 
fully and cultivated with infinite care and neat- 
nefs. 

Another bridge is rendered highly pi&urefque 
by a cafcade, which has been made about fifty 
yards from it. 

Near it (lands "Drujlwyn caftle, on an emi- 
nence which commands the courfe of the Tawy 9 

Paxton, or Middleton Hall, one of the bed 
built, and mod magnificent houfes xnWales, is at 
fome diftance on the right. 

Approaching the termination of the valley, 
there appeared a lofty hill, clothed with vene- 
rable oaks, from the river's brink to its fummit, 
on which are the maflive ruins of Newton caftle, 
the once regal feat of the ancient Cambrian mo- 
narchs. 

The laft prince who inhabited it, was Rhys ap 
Tezvdyr, an ahceftor of Rice, now Baron Dyne* 
vor. It was befieged by the forces of King Henry, 
in the year 1256, which were defeated, with the 
lofs of two thoufand men, by the brave Llewellyn 9 
prince of North Wales. 

This monument of ancient fplendour, ftands 
at the fouth-weftera boundary of a fpacious park, 

adorned 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 1 93 

adorned with noble plantations, and beautified 
with the moft agreeable diverfity of fwelling hills, 
and irriguous valleys, which nature has ever 
collected within the fame compafs. 

Every thing looks venerable ;— the very wall 
of the park is covered with mofs and ivy. 

We rung at an ancient gate, and were admit- 
ted by a pretty little Welch girl, who told us, 
that although Lord Dynevor's family was not at 
the caftle, me thought we might obtain permif- 
fion to fee the grounds. 

Palling a (lately range of oaks, (lamped with 
the mark of time, having arrived at maturity, 
at leafl a century ago, a beautiful view ef the 
valley towards the north prefents itfelf. 

We' then defcended through a rich grove, 
which flanks the prefent manfion, a ilructure 
devoid of tafle or elegance, and a great difgrace 
to the fcenery which furrounds it, as well as to 
the genius of its architect. 

The building, which is fluccoed all over, is 
of a fquare form, with a fmali turret projecting 
at each corner, covered 1 with' a fort of dome. 
The whole is embattled, : has plain fa(h windows^ 
and a low door-way. 

O This 



194 A JOURNEY 

This edifice is honoured with the title of JDy- 
nevor caftle, and it is placed under the (helter 
of three beautiful groves, but commands no prof- 
peel, excepting that of a bold fwell juft before 
the principal front, and the tops of a few of the 
trees which are fcattered about the park in a molt 
elegant manner. 

On the right, out of the midft of a dark wood, 
arife the mighty turrets of the ancient caftle,— 
an object fo venerable in itfelf is fcarcely to be 
paralleled, — and fo ornamented by the trees 
which furround it, as fcarcely to be matched for 
beauty and pi&urefque effect : but neither the 
ruin, nor its fublime accompaniments, are feen 
from the modern houfe. 

The undulations of the ground are remarkably 
beautiful,- — the fine and graceful fwell of the 
hills, the bold flopes, and the fweeping ridges, 
which vary this delightful place, exceed in fub- 
limity, and furpafs in effect, every thing I have 
feen of the fame nature : and the famed river 
Towey fecretly meanders around the park, feeling 
it no difhonour to warn, with tranflucent waves, 
the foot of the hill which once fuftained the pa- 
lace of the brave and venerable Rhys ap Tewdyr* 

While 



INTO SOUTH WALES I95 

While my mind was divided between the plea- 
Fure and admiration arifmg from contemplating 
r he fine old ruin, the rich foliage of the trees, 
and the verdure of the turf from whence they 
fpring; and the difguft excited by the clumfy 
awkwardnefs of the houfe, which is placed in 
the mod objectionable fpot about the premifes, 
I looked around to difcover a fituation more fit 
for the building of a manfion fuitable to the 
grandeur of the furrounding fcenery, and worthy 
the defcendants of Cambrian Princes, — thofe 
mighty names which are the " boaft of heraldry". 

*'. Chiefs grac'd with fears, and prodigal of blood." 

The high-born and illuftrious worthies of an 
heroic race. 

It was unneceflary to devote much time to this 
purpofe, for a gentle eminence was immediately 
before us, which commands an extenfive view of 
the broad and irriguous courfe of the Towey, of 
the old bridge over it, of the woods and moun- 
tains which bound the vale of Llandilo 9 of the 
beautiful groves which fkirt the flope of a lofty 
eminence behind the prefent manfion, and of the 
turrets of Newton caftle, furrounded by a dif. 
play of fylvan fcenery, rich even to luxuriance. 
O 2 How 



I96 A JOURNEY 

How fo advantageous a fituation happened to 
be overlooked by thofe who defigned the houfe 
as it now ftands, is really matter of aftonifhment; 
but mould the prefent noble pofierTor be induced 
to undertake the improvement which has been 
hinted at, his name will live, in the admiration 
and praifes of men of tafle, through fueceeding 
generations ; and the caflle of Dynevor will not 
depend on its ancient companion, the caftle of 
Newton, for fame or celebrity. 

Our anceftors feem to have given themfelves ve- 
ry little concern about the fit and the appropriate. 
Every age has produced a revolution of fafhions, 
and the principles of true tafle in architecture 
were, for centuries together, made fubfervient 
to fanciful and capricious whimfies. 

It is to the great, and will be to the lafting 
honour of the prefent age, that more correct 
ideas of genuine and appropriate embellifhment 
have at length been introduced and patronized. 

An harmonious arrangement of decorations, 
fuitable to the fcenery intended to be adorned, 
is now ftudied advantageoufly. 

The delightful affiftances of dignity of appear- 
ance, and cheerfulnefs of elevation, and the re- 
ciprocal aid of ground, fp difpofed as to fhew the 

buildings 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 1 97 

buildings to advantage, and a houfe fo formed 
and fo fituated as to embellifh the furrounding 
fcenery, have happily fucceeded to the tame for- 
mality of the lad century ; and the ridiculous 
frippery and profufion of ornament in which the 
days of Elizabeth delighted. 

Lord Dynevor polfefTes a park full of great na- 
tural beauties, in the charming difpofition of 
hills, valley, and river, fo remarkable at this 
place. 

Dynevor cattle has alfo thofe accompaniments 
which cannot be obtained by the greateft wealth 
and tafte united, without the afliftance of a long 
period of time, — namely, the richeft groves of 
(lately trees which are lavifhly diftributed, and 
in a manner which vafily increafes the majeftic 
elegance of their appearance. 

When, therefore, a building properly adapted 
to fuch magnificent fcenery, fhall grace this 
charming fpot, it will deferve the appellation of 
a terreftrial paradife ; and if any additional in- 
citement fo to adorn it could be wanting, it oc- 
curs in the reflection, that here the proud Cam- 
brian heroes made their laft bold (land againft 
thofe who attacked the liberties of their coun- 
try : — here the focial and domeflic virtues v/ere 
O 3 recorn- 



198 A JOURNEY 

recommended to the imitation of the world, by 
the force of illuftrious example ; — here, the ci- 
vilized manners of later and more refined ages, 
have alfo been cultivated, and the pious memory 
of renowned anceftors gratefully revered. 

A long line of noble progenitors, whofe coun- 
try is indebted to them for benefits and bleflings 
of vaft importance, have devolved on their fuc- 
ceffors the fame generous fpirit of honour, the 
fame benignity of fentiment, the fame virtuous 
emulation, and the fame undaunted boldnefs in 
Freedom's facred caufe, which irradiated them- 
felves, and crowned them with immortal glory. 

To thefe ancient worthies a more appropriate 
monument, indeed, can not be raifed than a drift 
imitation of their good example ; but the refpect 
and gratitude of pofterity might fitly be fhewn 
in rendering the place which was the fcene of 
their actions here, worthy of recording their 
names to future generations, who fhall admire, 
venerate, and copy their exalted worth, 

" 'Twas in ihokjields, by Roman hofts annoy '4, 

'* Fought our bold fathers, rutlic, unrefin'd ! 

«' Freedom's plain fons, in martial cares employM 1 

" They ting'd their bodies, but unmafk'd their minds. 

'Twa« 



INTO SOUTH WALES. X99 

*' 'Twas there, in happier times, this virtuous race 
ft Of milder merit fbc'd their calm retreat ; 
** War's deadly crimfon had forfook the place, 
" And freedom fondly lov'd the chofen feat. 

M Here youth's free fpirit, innocently gay, 

•' Enjoy'd the molt that innocence can give ; 

" Thofe wholefome fweets that border virtue's way, 

ft Thofe cooling fruits that we may tafte, and live. 

u Sincere themf elves, ah! too fecure to find 
u The common bofom, like their own, fmcere! 
" 'Tis its own guilt alarms the jealous mind, 
u 'Tis her own poifon makes the viper fear. 

" Farewell, pure fpirits ! vain the praife we give, 
'* The praife you fought from lips angelic flows ; 
" Farewell ! the virtues which deferve to live, 
i4 Deferve an ampler blifs than life bellows." 

SHENSTOKE* 



O 



200 A JOURNEY 



CHAP. XXI, 

Llandllo vaivr.—The Church. — Monumental Infmptlons .~— 
Llandovery. 

One mile from Dynevor caflle is Llandilo-vawr 9 
a fmall town, with very narrow, fteep, and ir- 
regular flreets, but not deftkute of good houfes. 

The church is very ancient, and confifts of two 
aifles. It is fo remarkably low, that the pillars 
which fupport the arches on which the roof refts, 
are not more than five feet in height. 

On our arrival at the inn, we were informed 
that the fermon was delivered in Welch and Englijh 
alternately, and, it being funday, that the prayers 
had jufl commenced. 

We attended divine fervice, for the firft time, 
in a language which we could not underftand ; 
but the clergyman, who was far advanced in 
years, feemed to exert himfelf with great force 
and energy. 

The communion fervice, and alfo the fermon, 
was in Englijh. 

' The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 201 

The farmers, their wives, and daughters, 
who formed the principal part of the congre- 
gation, exhibited a neatnefs in their drefs, and 
a decency of behaviour, very well fitted to the 
day, and to the religious duties which they had 
aflembled there to perform. 

There were no tawdry trappings, in imitation 
of gentility ; — the rofy cheeks were bordered by 
the neat cleanlinefs of the round eared cap ; and 
the well turned arm difpiayed its native graceful- 
nefs in unadorned fimplicity. 

There is a gallery at the weft end of the 
church ; but I obferved that when the pfalm was 
given out, they who were to fmg aifembled round 
the reading defk, and there chaunted their Ma- 
ker's praife. 

Lord Dynevor's father and mother, with fe- 
veral more remote anceftors, are buried at the 
eaft end of the north aifle, under the pew be- 
longing to the family, which has no mark of 
proud fuperiority, nor is at all diftinguifhed from 
the reft of the feats in the church, excepting by 
being fo fituated that every perfon in it is ex- 
cluded from the fight of the minifter. 
- On the front of the gallery is an infcription, 
fetting forth that the church was new pewed, new 

roofed 



202 A JOURNEY 

roofed, and repaired, at the expence of the 

Right Honourable G. Rice. 

On a tablet in the north aifle, is the following ; 



<c 



To the Memory of 

The Right Honourable 

" George Rice, 

" Treafurer of his Majefty's Chamber, 

" Lord Lieutenant and Cuftos Rotulorum, 

" Colonel of the Militia, 

" and 

" Reprefentative in four Parliaments 

" for the County of 

" Carmarthen." 

« c This monument was raifed by Cecilia his 
" wife, who thought it more than a private duty 
* 8 that fo bright an example of the great and 
16 amiable qualities fhould not pafs away with* 
" out a more lading memorial than the forrow 
" of his friends, but fhould be held forth to the 
" imitation of his family and country. 

" His generous nature, which done would 
" have prompted him to a noble and manly 
*' conduct, received an incitement from a long 
cfi fucceflion of illuftrious anceftors. It was aided 
" by a liberal education, and expanded itfelf in 

a full 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 203 

cc a full produce of all the virtues which belong 
u to a ftrong under (landing and an active fpirit, 
" under the regulations of religion and probity. 

" It pleafed God that his defervings fhould 
c * not be rewarded by a length of days; but, 
c * even here, they had their fruits in the efteem 
" and affection of all good men, and in the 
" zealous and virtuous attachment of his con- 
" ftituents. 

" He married Cecilia, only child of William^ 
" Earl Talbot, by whom he left three fons and 
" two daughters, to deplore, with their afflicted 
" mother, the lofs of the tendered, kindeft Huf- 
*' band, Parent, Friend, Protector. 

" He was born 'January 15, 1725, and died 
" Auguft 3, 17793 deeply and univerfally la- 
s' mented. 

" His children were Henrietta Cecilia, Lucy, 

c< George Talbot > William, Maria, and Edward* 

" Lucy died young. William furvived his father 

u only a few months, and died aged 1 1 years." 

On another tablet near the above. 

" To the Memory of 
Cecilia, 
Baronefs Dynevor 9 

" Widow 



u 



204 A JOURNEY 

" Widow of the Right Honourable 

" George Rice, 

" of Dynevor Cattle, in this County, 

" and 

" Daughter and Heirefs 

" of 
" William, Earl Talbot. 

<c This monument is erecled by her difconfo 
" late family. 

" PofTefTed of a fuperior underttanding, and 
" moft benevolent heart, and lofing the aid of 
" her hufoand in the education of an infant fa- 
" mily, me difplayed the firmnefs of a father, 
<c blended with every accomplifhment that could 
" adorn her own fex. 

" Of the induftrious poor fhe was the kindeft 
cc prote&refs ; and by a conttant attention to the 
" behaviour of her own family and dependants, 
" afforded a profitable example to all her neigh, 
" bours. 

" She died, univerfally lamented, on the 14th 
" of March, 1793, aged 57." 

The church-yard is interfered by a road, which 
divides it into two nearly equal parts ; and there 
is a pleafant row of houfes along the upper fide 

of it. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 20J 

The road to Llandovery p'affes by the fide of 
the valley through which the Towey winds its fii- 
ver courfe. 

On the left, about three miles from Llandik, is 
a handfome feat of Lord Robert Seymour Conway ', 
agreeably fitu-ated on an eminence, in a rich, fer- 
tile, and fylvan country, which is fhewn to great 
advantage by the dark ihades of fome lofty moun- 
tains, which clofe the profpeel, and bound the 
valley on the fouth-eaft. 

No other objects worth particularizing are, 
however, to be met with, till an ancient manfion, 
belonging to the--FoIeys 9 in a melancholy ftate.of 
decay, obtrudes its difmai and neglected ruins 
on the notice of the traveller. 

Farther on, is a houfe, whimfically built, but 
pleafantly fituated in a meadow contiguous to the 
road, and from whence the profpeel. of it will, in 
a few years, be much improved by the growth of 
the plantations, among which the young larches 
feem to flourifh with a peculiar degree of ele- 
gance. 

A finger-pott pointed to a ford, and to a 
bridge; — we cafually took the latter tract, (for 
the weather was too dry, and the river, confe- 
quently, too low to occafion any apprehenfions 

about 



2o6 A JOURNEY 

about pafling at the ford) and by this accident 
lengthened our journey at leaft three miles ; for 
the road pafling by the town of Llandovery, leaves 
it quite behind ; and, not till after many turnings 
and windings, condu&ed us to a (lone bridge of 
one arch, over the river. 

Having pafied a church on a hill, jufl out of 
the town, we foon arrived at the Caflle inn, plea- 
fantly fituated near an old ruinous fortification, 
which ftill bids defiance to* the united attacks of 
age and ftorms. 

Llandovery is neither large, nor well built ; it 
is, however, neat and clean j but like almofl all 
the reft of the Welch towns, full of ale-houfes. 

The ruins of the caflle are mantled with ivy, 
and a handfome terrace walk furrounds part of 
the keep. 

The inn, which was accurately clean, appear- 
ed to great advantage, after the accommodations 
we had met with at Carmarthen ; but we only 
(topped here for an hour two, and then fet out 
for Trecqftle 9 which is nine miles diftant. 



INTO SOUTH WALES. dOj 



CHAP. XXII. 

Road from Llandovery to Trecqftle. — River. — The Inn.-*' 
Llannfpddyd.-Tbe UJk. 

The road on which we now entered, has been 
lately conftructed, to avoid the dangers and in- 
conveniences of palling over the mountains ; and 
it is made to wind round their bales, fo that it 
prefents an enchanting difplay of romantic fce- 
nery, at the fame time that its intrinfic excel- 
lence defer ves the higheft commendation. 

We had fcarcely got out of the town of Llan- 
dovery, before a ferpentine river appeared on our 
right, gliding by the fide of the road, which 
turns under fome craggy projecting rocks, at the 
foot of a great mountain. 

Crofled the dream by a bridge of one arch, 
having on the Jeft a fine bold Hope, covered 
with wood. The road undulates ; winds to the 
right, and rifes on a terrace above the river, 
which here becomes narrow, though its courfe 
is fo rapid, nhat part of the dream being diverted 

a lit- 



20 8 A JOURNEY 

a little way from its channel, is found ftron^ 
enough to turn a mill within fight of the road. 

Here is alfo a fmall cafcade } and on the right 
a dufky and venerable wood. 

The valley through which the river runs is 
narrow, and its deep banks are covered with 
trees, which, as the dingle contracts in breadth., 
perfectly obfcure the view of the fir earn, now 
" heard and fcarcely heard to flow. 5 ' 

i ■ (TO 7 J 

The road winds in the mod elegant manner., 
and paiTes two craggy diafms, fudh as, in the 
fouthern parts of England, are fometimes called. 
chines. 

The valley is flill narrow j its precipitous fides 
being covered with prees $ and whenever the ri- 
ver wanders from one of thefe banks to the other., 
through the little meadows which feparate them, 
its edges are invariably adorned with a fringe of 
wood. 

The road, gently rifing and falling over .une- 
qual ground, firft prefents a view of bold and 
fwelling downs ; then of a whitened cottage, 
perched on the fummit of a lofty mountain, and 
embowered in a hanging, wood ; while the cuc- 
koo's note, re-echoing through the glade, pro- 
claimed the approach of a warmer feafon. 

A charm- 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 20G, 

A charming hill rifes from the water's edge, 
with a mod elegant fweep : the lofty flender trees, 
which clothe it, to its very fummit, fpreading 
themfeives into a fan of matchlefs beauty. The 
road winds to the right, and then the fylvan 
fcene is loft. 

The downs next claimed our attention, and 
then the river at their foot, foaming through a 
rocky and contracted channel with hoarfer mur-* 
murs. 

This mountain, which was dotted every where 
with fheep, is finely contrafted by the dark foli- 
age of a majefiic wood, which crowns the oppo- 
fite eminence. 

« Ecce coronantur facro frons ardua luco." 

A cottage at the verge of the river, in the 
neateft ftyle of fimplicity, greatly decorates the 
fcene ; and a rude plank thrown carelefsly over 
the ftream, with a rail, lodged in the branche s 
of the trees, on either fide, forms a ruftic bridge, 
with as much tafte, as the moft ingenious artift 
would have difplayed, and perfectly agrees with 
the wildnefs of the furrounding country. 

The range of mountains now breaks away ab- 
ruptly to the left, and I feared that the ftream^ 
P which 



210- A JOURNEY 

which feemed to cling around its bafe, would 
alfo have deferted us ; but it only bends its courfe 
in compliance with the varieties of the ground, 
and we foon perceived it on our right, paffing a 
fmall bridge. 

The road is fheltered by a fine flope, richly co- 
vered with wood ; and two auxiliary ftreams are 
feen falling into the little river, fo often men- 
tioned, with a bridge over each of them. 

The fide of the mountain, at the foot of which 
we were riding, is covered with wood, from the 
water's edge to its fummit ; and we began to 
afcend through it very gradually ; the foil un- 
der our feet being tinged with a reddifh caft, 
which has a mild and pleafmg effect : but when 
we arrived higher up, the hill appeared to have 
been defpoiled of its leafy honours. 

We continued our journey for a few miles 
on this hanging road, and derived frefh pleafure 
every moment from a variety of agreeable objects, 
which prefented themfelves to our view, in quick 
and interefting fucceffion. 

A fmall village, with its white church, darted 
up, as it were, before us : we again crofled our 
favourite dream, and in a few minutes loft fight 
of it for ever. 

Farewell ! 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2 II 

Farewell ! thou limped current ! May no rude 
hand difturb thy peaceful courfe, nor deftroy the 
beauties which furround thee ! 

Flow on, thou fweet dream ! the joy and ad- 
miration of the traveller ; the delight of every eye 
which views thee ; the beauteous offspring of un- 
erring nature ! 

Flow on, thou fweet river ! and ages hence, 
when the hand which now celebrates thee (hall 
have mouldered into duft, and have been long 
forgotten, may fome brighter genius, attracted 
by the influence of thy charms, with more ex- 
alted panegyric record thy name. 

My feeble pen, far, far beneath thy merits, 
and unequal to thy praife, fhrinks from the talk 
which gratitude afligned it, and leaves to the 
rapturous and energetic exprelTion of the poet, 
the foothing murmurs of thy cryflal flream, the 
graceful elegance of thy devious courfe, and all 
the fylvan honours which adorn thy banks. 

Rode through the village of Trecajile, which 
confifts of a few irregularly built farm-houfes 
and cottages ; and arrived at the White Hart, an 
excellent inn, fituated very commodioufly for 
thofe who travel into Wales, by the way of Bre- 
con, and well fupplied with excellent trout, from 
Pa the 



212 A JOURNEY 

the Ufk 9 which runs through the neighbouring 
valley. 

Leaving the inn at Trecqftle, in front of which 
was once a fortification, now entirely demolifhed, 
we afcended a hill, and enjoyed a pleafing view 
of the vale of UJk^ on our right. 

This road prefents no very ftriking, nor re- 
markable objects ; but the fcenery is placid, and 
the country well cultivated. 

Aberyfcr, a village at the mouth of a fmall 
river, and another which contains a large family 
manfion, called Aberbrain, are on the left 7 and 
the latter commands a profpecl of the river Brain, 
running through fine meadows and paflures, for 
feveral miles > and of a bridge with three arches, 
at fome diflance. 

Davenock Cqftle (lands on the right, nra rui- 
nous (late of decay. 

Palfed the village of Llannfpddyd, whofe neat 
little church is furrounded with very large and 
venerable yew-trees, expanding in all the luxu- 
riance of unreflrained nature 7 in which flare, I 
really think them poffeffed of great majefly and 
elegance. 

The church near Brain is almoil hidden by a 
rich plantation, which owes its darkeft and mod 

folemn 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 21$ 

folemn ihades to the yew, flill preferved among 
the more modem, and mors fafhwiable plants. 

The clouds refted on the fummit of Pent Cryg, 
a high mountain on the eafl fide of the river UJk ; 
and prevented us from tracing the lines of caftra- 
metation which enclofe it. Thefe are the re- 
mains of a Briiijh encampment (probably that of 
Llewellyn, when he befieged Brecoii), and the 
fpot from whence, in later times, Cromwell is faid 
to have cannonaded the town and caftle. 

Our time did not permit us to vifit the Gaer, 
a Roman encampment in the neighbourhood. 

The UJi } which had accompanied us for fome 
miles, can not boafl: the fame elegant fcenery, 
which decorates the banks of the fmaller ftream 
between Llandovery and Trecajile ; but it has dill 
its appropriate embellifhments, and thefe of no 
inferior order. Boldly floping banks, rich in ver- 
dure, and in the fylvan honours of the nobleft 
groves of oak which cover them : a fine broad 
fcream, now raving among the pebbles, and now 
gliding in filent majefty through a deeper chan- 
nel. If it be not adorned with the elegant fim- 
plicity of ruftic bridges, or the mild features of 
cottage fcenery fcattered about its fides, it has 
attracted the notice of the affluent, who have en- 
P 3 livened 



214 A JOURNEY 

livened its courfe with their buildings, and clothed 
the contiguous hills with plantations worthy of 
the fruitfulnefs and verdure of the meadows which 
its waters nourifh. 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 215 



CHAP. XXIII. 

Brecon. — The Alley and Cajtte*— River Wye. — Hay — Clifford 
Cajlle. — Journey to Kington^ in the Courfe of which <zve -were 
lojl all night on the Mountains. 

We entered the town of Brecknock, by a bridge 
over the £7$, which, at a little diflance above it, 
receives the Honddy, a rapid ftream. 

This bridge has been called (lately ; but it 
does not feem to deferve fo proud an epithet ; 
nor does the appearance of the buildings of the 
town at all convey an idea of opulence, cleanli- 
nefs, or importance. 

The ruinous caftle, which would otherwife 
form an intere fling object for contemplation, is 
fo choaked up with miferable huts, crowded into 
its very area, that it was difficult to diveft our- 
felves of the difgufl which they produced, fuffi- 
ciently to admire the picturefque erTec"l of the an- 
cient building. 

The flreets of Brecon are narrow, dirty, and 

irregular ; and although it is not without a con- 

fiderable number of good houfes, they bear, it 

P4 muft 



2l6 AJOURNEY 

mud be confeffed, a very fmall proportion to the 
wretched cabins of the indigent. 

The abbey, or collegiate church, founded on 
the ruins of a priory of Dominicans, by Henry the 
eighth, once venerable for the extent of its build- 
ings, and the pre-eminence of its fite, now en- 
clofed with a high wall, difgraced by the filth of 
a farm-yard immediately contiguous, and crumb- 
ling into a dreadful (late of ruinous dilapidation, 
excites only the fentiments of pity and regret. 

The ftreet which leads to this edifice, confifts 
of cottages, or rather huts, built of rough brown 
ftone, and fcarcely boafting a pane of glafs : and 
the foot pavement is difgraced and obftrucled by 
heaps of ilones, rubbifh, and dirt. 

The abbey church contains feveral monuments 
and tablets, but they are chiefly in memory of 
perfons, who might have wiifaed, rather than de- 
fer ved, to be remembered ; and whofe names 
are of confequence only to their refpeclive fami- 
lies. 

None of thefe is remarkable for its antiquity ; 
nor did I fee the memorial of one perfon, who 
was, or is even recorded to have been diftinguifh- 
ed when living, for birth or talents. 

In 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 217 

In this undiftinguifhed multitude, however, 
may, probably, have been depofited the remains 
of negle&ed genius, and the ames of unprotect- 
ed worth. 



" Perhaps, in this neglected fpot is laid 
" Some heart once pregnant with celeftial fire ; 
rc Hands, that the rod of empire might have fway'd, 
f( Or wak'd to ecftacy the living lyre. 
******* 
" Some village Hampden, that with dauntlefs bread, 
<e The little tyrant of his fields withftood ; 
" Some mute inglorious Milton here may reft, 
e< Seme Cromwell, guiltlefs of his country's blood." 



For the obfervation is unfortunately too true, that 
cc the pen of hiftory has been more employed in 
" recording the crimes of ambition, and the ra- 
" vages of conquerors, than in preferving the 
" remembrance of thofe, who, by improving 
" fcience and the arts, have contributed to in- 
" creafe the conveniences of life, and to heighten 
66 its enjoyments.'* 

Many of the graves in the church-yard are de- 
corated with flips of yew, or bay ; which are 
{luck in the green turf around the afhes of their 
relations, by the pious hand of friendfhip and 
affection — a pretty remnant of a very ancient 
cuftom. z 

« With 



21 8 A JOURNEY 

" With faireft flowers while fummer laffo, 
'• I'll fweeten thy- fad grave." 

And in Milton's Lycidas, 

" Bring the rathe primrofe that forfaken dies ; 

" The tufted crow-toe, and pale jeflamine; 

tc The white pink, and the panfy, freakt with jet j 

" The glowing violet ; 

** The mufk-rofe, and the well-attir'd woodbine, 

* s With cowflips wan, that hang the penfive head, 

" And ev'ry flower that fad embroidery wears : 

* c Bid amaranthus all his beauty fhed, 

u And daffadillies fill their cups with tears, 

*' To drew the laureajt herfe where Lycid lies." 

On the eaft fide of the church-yard is a tomb 3 
thus infcribed: 

" Here 

" lieth the body of 

** the Reverend Richard Davies, B. D. 

" Vicar of Brecon, 

" and 

" Archdeacon and Canon of 

" St. David's ; 

« who died the 2 2d of November, 

" 1748. 

" aged 52." 

On a grave-ftone is the following fpecimen of 
correct orthography, and harmonious verifica- 
tion: 

« Dear 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 319 

** Dear parents dont lament" my fall, 
•' For Death duth triumph over all. 

<f At two years owld, 

" I felt Death's power, 

" And foon became 

« A dying flower.' ' 

In the middle of the town Hands the market 
houfe, a refpectable building, where we faw 
large quantities of hops expofed for fale ; and 
there are manufactories of cloth, and of cotton 
ftockings carried on here. 

Brecknock caftle is faid to have been founded 
by Barnard de Newmarjh, a favourite of King 
William Rufus. It was befieged by Llewellyn ap 
Jofwerth, about the year 1233; but without 
fuccefs : and it does not appear, that it was ever 
afterwards expofed to the attack of an enemy, 
till Cromwell's time, when, being at that period 
in a ruinous ftate, it was laid (till lower by the 
Ufurper's cannon. 

One of the towers, which is ftill remaining, 
derives its appellation from Morton, bifhop of 
Ely, who was confined in it, in the reign of 
Richard the third, under the cuftody of the duke 
of Buckingham. 

The duke and his prifoner conferred together, 
and after frequent confutations, determined on 

advancing 



0.2O A J0X7RNEY 

advancing Henry, earl of Richmond to the throne ; 
but it is uncertain whether the duke connived at 
the bifhop's efcape, or whether that was effe&ed 
without his knowledge. Mort@n was, after the 
acceflion of King Henry, advanced to the dig- 
nity of archbifhop of Canterbury, lord chancel- 
lor and cardinal : but the duke of Buckingham 
was not fo fortunate, being betrayed by a domef- 
tic, for the reward of a thoufand pounds, offered 
by King Richard, for his head. This was that 
duke of Buckingham, whofe fon fell a viclim to 
the arrogance and refentment of cardinal Wolfey* 
in the reign of Henry the eighth. 

The two great ornaments of Brecon, and in- 
deed the only local advantages which belong to 
the town, remain yet to be mentioned : I mean 
the two pleafant walks, called " the Priory 
" Walk," and that on the banks of the UJ&, 
which are fcarcely equalled in the vicinity of any 
town with which I am acquainted. 

The abbey, and the trees by which it is fur- 
rounded, appeared to fome advantage on leaving 
the town. 

PafTed the village of Bronyllis ; and, contigu- 
ous to it, an old round tower, part of the caftle, 
8 which 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 221 

which (lands on an artificial eminence, and is a 
picturefque ornament to the furrounding coun- 
try. 

An elegant modern houfe, called Treguniur, 
is elevated on a lofty hill, on the right : and not 
far from it the black mountains, 

( ci whofe top 

cc Licks from their cloudy magazine the fnows/') 

foar above the neighbouring eminences in awful 
grandeur. 

On the left is Pont-yWall, a gentleman's 
houfe, pleafantly lituated fo as to command fe- 
veral very richly- varied, and agreeable views. 

The river Wye defcending from Rbyader, by 
way of Builth, falls in with the ftream which had 
accompanied the road we travelled, and paries un- 
der a long wooden bridge at Glafsbury, where, as 
well as at the town of Hay, the inundations of the 
year 1795 deftroyed the (tone bridges, which had 
refilled the efforts of the ftream for many cen- 
turies. 

It is remarkable, that both thefe bridges fell 
up the ftream 5 an evident proof that their de- 
molition was occafioned by the weight of the 
water undermining the piers on which they 
ftood. 

A gen- 



222 A JOURNEY 

A gentle defcent of the road, for more than a 
mile before we reached Hay, afforded a good 
profpect of the fertile fields, orchards, and hop- 
grounds, which environ the town, as well as the 
bold mountains that enclofe them. 

Hay occupies an eminence, on the fumrnit of 
which formerly flood a ftrong caftle, of which 
only a few walls, and one fquare tower remain. 
A dwelling houfe of confiderable fize, has been 
built out of the ruins ; and two very large flacks 
of chimnies, at the we 0: end, exhibit, at a dis- 
tance, no bad refemblance of the ancient turrets 
which once frowned from this exalted deep. 

The old Norman caflle, which flood on the 
bank of the Wye, near the church, was demo- 
lifhed &y King John, towards the end of his 
reign. 

The church is frnall, and contains nothing re- 
markable : there is, however, a pleafmg view of 
the neighbouring valley from the church-yard. 

The town, though not large, is very populous; 
and the eftablifhment of the thread manufactory 
in it, is a forcible proof of the induftrious and 
enterprising fpirit of the inhabitants. 

At Hay we were entertained by Mr. Lyde, fur- 
geon \ %. gentleman, whofe humanity and fkill do 

as 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 223 

as much honour to the medical profeffion, as his 
generous and liberal hofpitality reflects on the 
place of his refidence. 

Having been agreeably detained by the earned 
folicitations of Mr. Lyde, we did not leave Hay 
till the following evening, intending to repofe 
ourfelves at a friend's houfe, near the Brilley 
mountains, and to proceed towards Kington the 
next day. 

We rode along the bank of the Wye, and came 
to Clifford, a fmall village, with a mod pic* 
turefque and beautiful ruin of an old caflle, fitu« 
ated on a deep mount, clofe to the river, which 
is faid to have been the birth-place of the re- 
nowned Rofamond, daughter of an earl of Clif 
ford. 

A fecond mount has been raifed almoft conti* 
guous \ but there are no remains of buildings 
on it. 

A little inn at Clifford, difplays the fign of the 
Caflle, an excellent reprefentation of the ruin ; 
and boldly placed, by the artift, in a fituation 
where every one has an opportunity of com- 
paring it with the building, from which it was 
defigned. 

Forded 



224 A JOURNEY 

Forded the Wye, which is broad, but not very 
deep ; and when we had gained the oppoflte 
bank, turning round to thank the perfon, who 
had conducted us to the proper place for crof- 
fing the river, difcovered a mod remarkable 
echo ; by far the mod complete in its anfwers of 
any which I have ever met with ; and not much 
inferior to that which has been celebrated in Dr. 
Plotfs " Natural Hidory of Oxford/hire." 

Patted a farm-houfe, and entered on a very 
fteep, narrow, and dirty lane ; which, after 
great labour and fatigue, brought us to a village, 
confiding of three or four houfes, where we ob- 
tained a direction about the road we were to 
purfue, which at lad conduced us to the habi- 
tation of Mr. B— e v-—n. 

The kind and friendly reception which we had 
uniformly experienced in Wales, left us no room 
to doubt of meeting with the like hofpitality at 
LI—— ; but fate had determined otherwife, and 
notwithdanding the additional claim, which the 
darknefs of the night, added to our total igno- 
rance of the road, had given us on their hofpi- 
tality, we were doomed to experience the mor- 
tification of being told, that the family was not 
at home. An old fybil, whofe hagard counte- 
nance 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 225 

nance was aggravated by this forbidding meffage, 
gave us the unwelcome anfwer through a cafe- 
ment, which, (he faid, as we were Grangers to 
her, fhe did not choofe to open, though the 
true reafon was, her fear left we mould have de- 
tected the miftrefs of- the houfe, in the act of 
hiding herfelf under a table ; the giimpfe of 
which procedure we caught, by the light of a 
folitary candle, which the Duenna had forgotten 
to extinguifh. In vain did we entreat the favour 
of a guide to Kington ; in vain prefer our earneft 
requeft to be directed by the neareft road : the 
old woman having condefcended (but not with- 
out much altercation with her miftrefs) to tell a 
lie, or, in more polite phrafeology, to deny her, 
now ftoutly fupported what me had faid, in op* 
pofition to the incontrovertible teftimony of our 
eyes and ears ; but obftinately refufed to anfwer 
any queftions. Thus circumftanced, we were 
under the difagreeable neceftity of returning 
through the lane before mentioned ; and, tow 
tally deftitute of all knowledge of the road, foon 
completely loft ourfelves in the mazy intricacies 
of its different turnings. Enquiring ac a cottage* 
we received a direction, made up of an unintel- 
ligible concatenation of names and places, and a 
0* con- 



226 A JOURNEY 

confufion of terms and diftances, which could 
only have been under ft ood and rectified by thofe 
who were well acquainted with the geography of 
the country, and who would, therefore, have 
required no information. 

As it was barely poflible for us to explore a 
track thus defcribed, it is not at all wonderful, 
that we were foon in greater perplexity than be- 
fore. We had now arrived at a dirty common ; 
but being deceived by the femblance of a hedge, 
which was in facl nothing more than the -made 
occafioned by a thick fog reding on the edge of 
a lofty hill ; in making up to it, we fuddenly 
found ourfeives on the brink of a precipice, with 
a river at its foot. Providentially our horfes 
were lefs blinded by the mid, than their riders, 
or we mould have inevitably fallen from the cliff 
into the water. After this narrow efcape, we 
made various efforts to regain the road ; but the 
tracks were either fo numerous as to bewilder us, 
or fo obfcure, that we could not trace them. 
The inhabitants of the cottage at which we cal- 
led, had fpoken of a public houfe fome where 
on the road ; but there was not a glimmering of 
light to aflift us, nor any found, but that of a 

tinkling 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 227 

tinkling (heep bell, to be heard. We wandered 
through the dreary wafte, juft as chance, or ac- 
cident directed us ; for the points of the compafs 
were forgotten : there was not a Mar to be feen, 
and we were, on every fide, furrounded wi h an 
impenetrable mift. All our care and caution did 
not . prevent us from falling into feveral deep 
holes, nor from finking into miry ditches, up to 
the horfes girths. At laft our progrefs was com- 
pletely (topped ; for, though not abfolutely en- 
tangled among the thickets, we were fo enclofed 
by trees and bufhes, that we could nei her go 
forward, nor find any opening by which we might 
retreat. The fcreams of the night owl were the 
only founds which reached the ear ; and in this 
gloomy folitude we were compelled to pafs the 
remainder of the night. Apprehenfive of dan- 
gers, of which we could not form any probable 
idea ; fhtouded in darknefs, and thus enclofed in 
3. confinement, which appeared infurmountable, 
I could not help fancying myfelf in the famous 
Buller of Buchan, fo emphatically defcribed by 
Doctor John/on. 

At laft the mift began to be diffipated, and an 

opening in the wood afforded us fome chance of 

Qj 2 reco« 



228 A JOtJRNEY 

recovering our way. A fmali farm-houfe ap* 
peared at the bottom of the hill, to which we 
haftened, and were hofpitably received there by 
its owner, who fet before us his beft provifions, 
dried our clothes by a turf fire, fheltered our 
horfes in his ftable, and, as foon as it was day- 
light, conducted us himfelf, into the road to 
Kington, 

We now pa!Ted horrid pit-falls, which were 
bordered with our horfes footings, the dangers to 
which we had been expofed in the night, ap- 
peared in their full extent, and (what was mofl 
provoking) we difcovered that the track which 
we had unwittingly purfued, pafled clofe by fe- 
veral houfes, which the darknefs of the night 
had totally hidden from our view ; and within a 
few paces of the public-houfe to which we had 
been repeatedly directed. 

Greatly fatigued, at length we reached King- 
ton, which is a neat lively town, pretty well 
built, and populous. 

The church has a fingular appearance, being 
very irregular in its form ; and the tower, which 
is very low, (landing detached, on the fouth fide 
of it, furmounted with a fpire, exactly refemb- 

ling 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 229 

ling three extinguifliers, placed one over the 
other. 

The Wye, when it arrives at Kington, is a deep 
and filent dream ; but after pafling the bridge, 
it divides into two currents, which brawl among 
the (tones, and refume the character which marks 
its general courfe. 

At the entrance of the town is a free grammar 
fchool, erected and endowed by a Lady Watkins* 



H$0 , A JOURNEY 



CHAP. XXIV. 

Return to Prefleign. ^Road to Mortimer's Croft. — Richard's 
Cajlle. — Orleton. Ludlow. — Hofpital. — Church, — Caftle. 
— Lords Prefidents of the Marches of Wales. ~ Hiftorical 
Anecdotes. — Remarks on certain Corporations. 

The great quantity of rain which had fallen, 
rendered our journey to Prejleign dirty and un- 
pleafant. The road paffes through an inclofed 
country, and leaving the fine plantations at the 
Earl of Oxford's feat, at Eywood, on the left, 
rejoins the road by which we had before entered 
Prefteign. 

Here we again met with that cordial and un- 
affected hofpitality, that generous and attentive 
reception, which marks the character of true 
friendfhip, and adds luflre to the mod exalted 
qualifications, and the mod fplendid accomplifh- 

ments. 

After refling ourfelves for a few days under 

the hofpitable roof of Mr. D s, we purfued 

our journey to Ludlow, through roads every 
where exceffively bad, and in fome places almofl: 
impaffable. 

•Two 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2%l 

Two miles from Prefteign, parted fome genteel 
villas, at the foot of the noble hill which fuf- 
tains the fortification called Weobly camp. The 
flope is covered with wood, which defcends to 
the meadows, on the brink of a fmall river, 
over which is a (tone bridge. 

The village of Kinjha?n, with the feat of the 
Countefs Dowager of Oxford^ are on the left; 
and on the oppofite fide is a bold craggy moun- 
tain, which darkens the road, and towers over 
the adjacent country. 

The road pavTes the feat of Vifcount Bateman 9 
near which we croffed another bridge, and after- 
wards rode through the village of Shobdon to 
Mortimer's Crofs, a place rendered famous in 
hiitory by its vicinity to the fpot on which Ed* 
ward, Duke of Tork (afterwards King Edward 
the fourth) encountered the forces of Henry the 
fixth, under the command of Jafper, Earl of 
Pembroke. 

The event of this battle proved highly advan- 
tageous to Edward^ who befides having made 
great ilaughter of the King's army, took (among 
other prifoners) Owen Tudor ', hufband to Queen 
Catharine, and father in law of Henry the fixth) 
and beheaded him at Hereford. 

(^4 Palled 



23a A JOURNEY 

PalTed Croft Caftle, formerly the feat of Mr. 
Johnes, whofe elegant refidence at Hafod has 
been already defcribed ; and from Yarpole, about 
a mile beyond it, enjoyed a retrofpeft of the 
buildings, and a fine fcreen of oaks which fhel- 
ter the houfe* 

Three miles from Ludlow is Richard 9 s Cqftle, 
now a mean village, with fcarcely a veftige of 
the building from whence it derives its name re- 
maining. It is a place of great antiquity, and 
fome records are preferved of its importance in the 
Norman times; — fince which, it has gradually 
declined, and now contains only one object wor- 
thy of the traveller's notice. 

This is a natural curiofity, fcarcely to be pa- 
ralleled, but which has been long known to the 
curious. Camden, and other authors, have men- 
tioned it, but no fatisfactory account has been 
given of the caufe of it. 

Beneath the caftle is a well, which contains 
immenfe quantities of the bones of frogs, — and 
although it has been feveral times cleanfed, they 
are foon found in as great numbers as before. 
This happens in fpring and autumn, and it has 
been conjectured that the coldnefs of the water 
firft killed the frogs, and then deftroyed and 

diffolved 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 233 

diffolved the flefh :■ — an experiment has been 
made, to difcover the truth of this, by tying a 
living frog in the water ; but no fuch effect was 
then produced. This experiment however, is 
no farther conclufive than as it difproves the 
power of the water to deftroy life, for it may 
poflibly happen that this water pofTeffes the pe- 
culiar property of dhTolving the flefh of dead 
animals, although it has no effect on the fame 
fpecies during life. 

It is remarkable that the human body, whe- 
ther in health or difeafe, is always very near 
that degree of temperature which is moil favour- 
able to the procefs of putrefaction, and yet 
that it has no difpofition to putrefy. 

It may appear but vague reafoning, but it is 
undoubtedly the truth, to fay,- that the life pre- 
vents it, but the imperfect powers of the human 
mind can no more account for why the living 
principle does prevent it, than they can explain 
why attraction and gravitation exifl ; or than 
they can elucidate the fact that the flefh of a living 
frog is not liable to be deftroyed by the water 
in this well, though that of a dead one will be 
very fpeedily diffolved in it. 

12 After 



2J4 A JOURNEY 

After we had pafled the village of Orkton, 
which is almofl: hidden among orchards, we faw 
fever al villas on each fide of the road ; and, 
at a diftance, on the right, {lands Bellington 9 
the refidence of the Right Honourable Thomas 
Harley. 

The approach to Ludlow from Prejleign is not 
at all (hiking. The lofty tower of the church, 
indeed, appears on an eminence, but neither the 
caftle, nor the river, nor the walls which beautify 
the environs of the town, are included in the 
profpect. 

At the corner of Mr. Lechmere*s park, an old 
bridge, with pointed piers and receifes, leads to 
the high flreet :— the fouth gate has been con- 
verted into a dwelling houfe, but the arched 
paffage is ftill open. 

This flreet is ftraight and well built, and at 
the upper end, where it is crorled by another of 
inferior breadth, Hands a neat ftone building, 
fupported by pillars,' which ferves as a fchoo3 5 
and a market- houfe. 

The other flreets are, in general, fpacious* 
and fome of them handfome, but there is an air 
of quietnefs which the fize of the town rendered 

unexpected | 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 23 J 

unexpe&ed ; and grafs literally grows in feveral 
parts of it. 

Dulnefs feems, indeed, to have fo completely 
eftabii fried her reign here, that we had been a 
whole day at Ludlow before we faw a fingle car- 
riage of any defcription pafs through the ftreets. 

The church is a handfome cruciform ftructure, 
in the gothic ftyle, with large and lofty windows, 
and a fine tower ornamented with ftatues. 

A terrace walk enclofes the weft fide of the 
church-yard, which commands an agreeable prof- 
peel over the meadows, and the courfe of the 
river Te??w, to the diftant hills. 

Near the church is a neat hofpital for the re- 
ception of poor perfons, with the following in- 
fcription on the front : 

" Domum hanc Eleemofynariam 

" Munificentia Johannis Hofyer, Mercatoris, 

" Anno falutis mcccclxxxvi, prifmito 

" extruclam. 

« Temporis injuria labefadam dein et ruituram^ 

In Dei optimi maximi Gloriam, Pii Fundatoris 

" Memoriam et comodioram, 

" Pauperum receptionem ; ab ipfis ufque 

" Fundamentis propriis fumptibus, 

Refufci- 



f« 



2$6 A JOURNEY 

" Refufcitarunt, ampliarunt, ornarunt, 

cc Ballivi Burgenfes et Communitas Villas hujus 

" de Ludlow; 

<c Anno Domini, mdc^lviii, 

cc Auguftiflimi Regis Georgii Secundi 

" Tricefimo primo. 5 ' 

A handfome portico on the fouth fide of the 
church is now the principal entrance. 

This edifice contains the afhes of many diflin- 
guifned perfons ; — it is neatly pewed, and a con* 
fiderable quantity of painted giafs is flill remain-* 
ing in the windows, notwithstanding the fuper- 
ftitious devaluations to which it was expofed, in 
common with all other religious edifices, in the 
fanatical days of Cromwell \—io that yet 

(i The ftoried window (hades the folar ray, 
<Jc With foften'd luftre, and religious day." 

The font is of white marble, and placed near 
ihe weft door. 

The roof is not ceiled, but wainfcoted with 
oak, and decorated at the interfeclions of the 
joifts with painted figures of angels bearing 
fcrolls, with fentences from the " Te Deum." 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 237 

The organ, which is very handfome, is inju- 
dicioufly placed over the entrance to the chan- 
cel. It was the gift of the Right Honourable 
William Henry Earl of Powis ; and there is a fire- 
engine, which was prefented by the fame family. 

Oi a tablet affixed to one of the pillars which 
fupport the tower, is an infcription in memory 
of " The Honourable Alice Burrard, daughter 
<c of r ichard> Lord Herbert, Baron of Cher bury, 
" in England, and of Caftle I/Iands 9 in Ireland™ 
and dated 1703. 

On the fouth fide of the chancel is a white 
marble monument in memory of " Thocphilus 
■* Salzvay, Efq. fon of Edward Salway, and 
grandfon of Major Richard Salway" who, as 
the infcription fets forth, cc facrificed all and 
<c every thing in his power, in fupport of public 
" liberty, and in oppofition to arbitrary power." 

A fort of pedeftal fupports a furly, dropftcaU 
looking cherub; on one fide lies the fhield of arms, 
and on the other is a pyramid, compofed of books 
and palm branches, furmounted with an ill fhaped 
fcull, big enough for the moulders of a giant. 

Near the lad mentioned monument is one of 
alabafter, painted and ornamented with feveral 
coats of arms, with the following words : w 



2j8 A TOURNEY 

« fymt \?tt$t tfie botJpe of am&rofta %&pfc 
<c tiep, inufi JDausfitet of t%t fttgfjc l^onout* 
cc able ©ir ^envp ©pbaep, ftmgnt of tfir 
w moff noble omer of tge Matter, ILortj $ie* 
«* gsDentof tfie Count*!! of Maiieg, eic. £lti& 
« c of tlje HaDpe tparpe gi0 Wpef, SDausJjter 
ce of tfie famoug HDtrite of jftOitgumtolanir, 
" la)So fcpels in Lntilo&e CaSell, tfie 22ts of 
* 6 jMmaxie, 1574." 

The pavement of the chancel is almoft wholly 
covered with funereal memorials, and among 
many lefs diftinguifhed names is that of a daugh- 
ter of Thomas 1 Lord Folliot, Baron of Ballifhan* 
fion, in Ireland^ who married into the two anci- 
ent familes of Powel and Jones, of Radnor/hire* 

Near the altar, in a recumbent pofture, is the 
figure of a lady in the drefs of the times in which 
me lived ; and below, this inscription : 

" HERE LYETH, EXPECTINGE A JOYFUL?, 
€C RESURRECTION, THE BODY OF DAME MARY 
<c EURE, LATE WIFE TO THE RIGHT HONOUR- 
cc ABLE RALPHE, LORD EURE, BARON OF MAL- 
ec TON, LORD PRESIDENT OF THE PRINCIPALI- 
<c TIE AND MARCHES OF WALES, AND LIEU- 
" TENANT OF THE SAME, AND DAUGHTER OF 

" SIR, 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2J9 

*? SIR JOHN DAWNEY, OF SESSEY, IN THE COUN- 
cc TY OF YORK, KNT. WHO DEPARTED THIS 
€C MORTALL LIFE THE I9TH DAY OF MARCH, 
" ANNO DOMINI l6l 2, JETATIS SUJE 55" 

On the north fide of the altar, within the 
rails, is an ancient monument, with the figure 
of a doughty knight in armour, with a dagger 
by his right fide, and a book between his hands; 
and of a lady, extended at full length, and red- 
ing her head on a large book, two dogs lying at 
her feet ; and at the feet of the knight, a dcer 9 
with this motto: " Tout en Dieu." The lady has 
rings on the fecond joint of the fourth finger 
of each hand. 

' c t)mt Ipttb t[ie HBoupes of %iv IRobert 
•5 ^o&nftniii, SnpsSr, lovDCfrcf 3^iceof 
«f tfie Cotmfell in t$t ^artfieg of Mafeg an!* 

M Clieffer; ana HDame £iicc fiig Kpf? , SDouglj* 
•f ter, anti oue of tfie S^epre^ of IRobert #oppe, 
^ ef quire, &J)oe £at> bet&pne tbem t&oa *ij 
" tBpteren, bi formed and bj Uougfirer^, Into* 
" fullp be^ot." 

The figures of the fix daughters are at the ends 
of the monument, adorned with their coats of 
arms, empaled with thofe of the families with 
which they intermarried : — the founes have the 

honour 



24® A JOURNEY 

honour of Handing in a row along the front 
of the tomb, and below each figure is the name, 
description, and rank of each perfon refpec~tively, 
but many of thefe infcriptions are illegible. 

Crefts were firfl ufed early in the fourteenth 
century ; but I do not find when the cu?om of 
placing them at the feet of monumental fla- 
tues firfl obtained. It was perhaps introduced 
during the crufadoes, as we ufually find the 
figures of crofs-legged knights with thefe accom- 
paniments ; and as every innovation of that pe- 
riod was tinclured with a religious fervor, this 
might perhaps be intended as fymbolical of the 
contempt which the true chriftian warrior enter- 
tained for the good things of the prefent world, 
and as an indication that he afpired to the bleff- 
ings of immortality, trampling on the higher! 
honours and diftin&ions of this earthly ftate. 

The window over the altar is nearly entire, 
and contains the hiftory of St. Lawrence, the 
tutelar faint of the church. 

On the north fide, of the chancel is a monu- 
ment with this infcription : 

" This monument was erected by Edward 
" Walter Efquire, one of his Majefty's council 
" in ordinary in the Principality and Marches of 

" " Wales, 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 241 

86 Wales, in his life-time, anno setatis fuse 72, 
" in memory of himfelf, and of Martha, his late 
<c Wiefe, deceafed, who was daughter of Sir 
" Charles Foxe, Knight, and Dame IJfabell, his 
" wiefe. Shee departed this lifee the 2d day of 
« 08. 1629. 

" They had ifTue betweene them three fonnes, 
" Charles, Edward, and Timothy ; and four 
<c Daughters, Margaret, IJfabell, Margaret, and 
" Anne ; of all which only two are nowe livinge : 
" Margaret, the younger, who is married to 
" Edward Corbett, of Longnor, in the county 
" of Salop, Efquire ; and Anne, who is married 
" to Edward Foxe, of Ludforde, in the county 
" of Hereford, Efquire." 

There is a chapel on the north fide of the 
chancel, with fome painted glafs in the windows, 
and an alabafler monument of Sir John Brydge- 
man, who is reprefented in his robes and cap ; 
and, agreeable to the character preferved of him, 
with a fenfible, but morofe countenance : 

" SACRUM MEMORLffi, 
" DNI. JOHANNIS BRTDDGEMAN, MILITIS, 
* c SEE.UIENTIS AD LEGEM ET CAPITALIS JUSTICIARII, 
" CESTRLffi, 
" QUI MAXIMO OMNIUM BONUM TJOERORB, 

R « (cum 



242 A JOURNEY 

u (CUM 70.ANNOS vixisset) 

, <c 5 FEBR. ANNO 1 63 7; 

" PIE PLACIDEQ. ANIMA DEO REDDIDIT.'* 

Francifca uxor mceftiffima pofuit. 

In the fouth end of the tranfept is what I take 
to be a great curiofity :— the Commandments,, 
painted in the old letter, and which have fo re- 
mained from the time that they were nrft order- 
ed to be fet up in churches. 

The fevera! precepts are much abridged, and 
they exhibit a curious fpecimen of ancient ortho- 
graphy, beginning thus : 

" %ty tzn commatmtameitttg oF aimpifttie 

" (Bofctie* 
" Itjoifc fl;auite ^alie none otlje^ (feofceg but 

« mti" 

A red capital begins mofl of the nouns. The 
firft, fixth, feventh, eighth, ninth, and tenth 
commandments are at length. 

The fecond is abridged from the end of the 
precept. The promife of the third is omitted 5 
and all the latter part of the fourth, which *e- 
fpe&s the creation : and in the fifth, the fecond 
claufe is entirely omitted. 

Divine fervice is performed here three times z 
10 day 1 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 243 

day ; and there is a provifion for a rector, cu- 
rate, and lecturer. 

On another monument is the following : 

<c He ARE LYE THE BODIES OF EDMUND WAL- 
" TER, ESQUIER, CHIEFFE JUSTICE OF THREE 
" SHIERS IN SOUTH WALES, AND ONE OF HIS 
" MAJESTY'S COUNCILL IN THE MARCHES OF 
<c WALES ; AND OF MART, HIS WIFE, DAUGH- 
" TER OF THOMAS HACKLUIT, OF EYTON, 
cc ESQUIER, WHO HAD ISSUE THREE SONNES, 
< c NAMED JAMES, JOHN, AND EDWARD; AND 
C < TWO DAUGHTERS, NAMED MART AND DO- 
" ROTHT. HE WAS BURIED THE XXIX DAYE 
* c OF JANUARIE, ANN. DN 1 592." 

This tomb is of alabafler ; the figures are of 
jet, recumbent on a table of white marble, fup* 
ported by pillars of variegated alabafler : and be- 
low the entablature are five little figures, kneel- 
ing. 

Among this interefling collection of monu- 
mental records, it is obfervable, that the chief 
officers of the court of marches have their effigies 
always decorated with the ring, or fignet ; — the 
conftant diflinguifhing ornament of places of 
truft and confidence, in remote periods. 

The great name of Cadwallader, is ftill re- 
maining in the family of a tradefman of Ludlow; 
R 2 perhaps 



244 A JOURNEY 

perhaps without his knowing the origin front 
whence he fprung. Were it poflible for us to 
trace the connexions of the moil: ancient families 
in the kingdom, there is no doubt that we mould 
find a pretty equal diftribution of what is proud- 
ly termed noble blood. We mould difcover this 
precious fluid in various channels, fometimes 
creeping fluggiflbly through the veins of a ple- 
beian ; another while boiling with impetuofity in 
kings and princes. We mould detect fome of the 
greateft names, among the humbled Rations, and 
even, perhaps 

"" An undoubted Plantagenet holding the plough." 

Near Ludlow the Teme is joined by a fmaller 
11 ream, called the Corfe, which paries under a 
ftrong bridge, of three arches, north-weft of the 
town 5 but afterwards winds between the mea- 
dows fo fecretly, that its courfe is not eafily to 
be traced. 

Both the Teme and the Corfe are full of trout 
and perch, and of a fpecies of roch, which is 
called by fome name peculiar to this part of the 
country. 

The abundance of fifh has tempted a! mod all 
the poorer fort to become fifhermen,. and in* 

duced 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 245 

duced the neighbouring gentlemen, who pofTefs 
eftates, and the farmers, who occupy land con- 
tiguous, to be very (Iricl in prohibiting perfons 
from coming to angle on the grounds which re- 
fpeclively belong to them. 

Ludlow Caftle, whether it be confidered on 
account of its antiquity, the dignity of its hifto- 
ry, or the magnificent ruin which it at prefent 
exhibits, highly deferves attention. 

It (lands on the weft fide of the town, on a 
noble eminence, which commands a beautiful 
valley, full of green paftures, dotted with cattle, 
and interfperfed with trees ; decorated with a 
fofily gliding river, whofe banks are fringed with 
wood ; and 'bounded by lofty hills, either cover- 
ed with trees, or heaving their bold naked ridges 
into the clouds, at a hazy diftance. 

(< The various landfcape onward fpreads, 

" O'er cultur'd plains and verdant meads, 

" And feats, and towns, and hamlets rife, 

" Where yon fmoke curls into the ikies ; 

" And fpires that pierce through tufted trees, 

" Till faintly fadin? by degrees, 

" Beyond> in wild confufion toft, 

« The hills' blue tops in clouds arc loft." 

The buildings of the keep are of immenfe 

height, and occupy a terrace nearly a hundred 

R 3 feet 



1^6 A JOURNEY 

feet above the river, which on the fouth fide of 
the ruins paries under an elegant bridge, too nar- 
row to be commodious j but feemingly defigned 
as a pi&urefque objeft from the walks that are 
carried round the caftle ; and which, being kept 
with great neatnefs, afford an interefting and 
agreeable promenade. 

A dam has been made acrofs the river, to 
fupply a mill near the bridge, immediately below 
the fite of the caftle \ and a cafcade is thus 
formed, whofe murmurs have a foothing effect. 

The entrance from the town is under a Io# 
gate-way, neither magnificent nor {lately. The 
area, into which it opens (by Stukely called the 
Barbican), is of confiderable extent: all the 
buildings by which it was enclofed on the fide to* 
wards the town, are fallen to decay ; but fuffi- 
cient fragments ftill remain, to point out what 
was formerly the porter's lodge. 

The caftle, properly fo called, or, as fome 
will have it, the keep, is feparated from this area* 
by a deep fofs, as well as a ftrong wall. 

We approached the interior, under a gate- 
way, ornamented with the arms of Queen Eli- 
zabeth, and of Lord Prefident Sidney : and hav- 
ing 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 247 

ing the following infcriptions, in capital letters, 
gilt: 

" HOMINIBUS INGRATIS LOQUIMINI LAPIDES, 

" AN. REGNI REGINjE ELYZABETHJE 23. 
" THE 22 YEAR COPLET OF THE PRESIDENCY OF 
U SIR HENRI SIDNET, KNIGHT OF THE MOST 
" NOBLE ORDER OF THE GARTER, ETC. I58 I. 

" ANNO DOMINI MILESIMO QUICENTISSIMO 
" OCTUAGESIMO COr"*ETO, ANNO REGNI SERE- 
" NJ.SSIM.ffi ILLUSTRISSIM^E REGIN-ffi ELIZA- 
6i BETHJE VICESSIMO TERTIO." 

The buildings of the keep enclofe a fmall ir- 
regular court, in the midft of which is a circular 
tower, of great antiquity, formerly part of the 
body of the chapel, the eafl end of which is en- 
tirely demolifhed. 

This (Iruclure has undoubtedly flood here, ever 
fmce the Saxon times, and the painted coats of 
arms, with which its walls had been decorated, 
were remaining within the memory of perfons 
now living. 

An elegant moulding runs round the outfide, 
and the beautiful Saxon arch of the grand door- 
way is (till prefer ved entire. 

The height of the walls may be about forty 

feet 5 but the roof is gone, and the arches, which 

R 4 fuftaia 



248 A JOURNEY 

fuftain the walls, and the Saxon pillars on which 
they reft, are expofed to the wind and rain. 

The great hall, to which we afcended by a 
flight of fteps, covered with earth and rubbifh, 
is about fixty-fix feet by thirty-fix, and twenty 
feet high : it remained nearly entire, till within 
thefe 40 years ; together with part of its furni- 
ture, fome old armour, and feveral culinary uten-* 
His, which indicated the extent of ancient hok 
pitalityj 

The perfon who mewed the premifes, after re- 
probating in general terms the mifconduct of 
thofe to whom the cuftody of the caftle had 
been, of late years, entrufted, and who have di- 
lapidated it, and carried away even the timber, 
for their own private advantage, was particu- 
larly fevere againft one Stewart, a Scot's ma?i 9 
who (he faid) hzdjlolen a great copper flaggon, 
which had been kept for ages in the caftle, and 
was marked with an infcription, fetting forth that 
it was defigned for the ufe of ftrangers, and the 
honour of EngHJh hofpitality. 

Jf it had been fuffered to remain here, how* 
ever, there is very little reafon to fuppofe, that 
It would have continued to ferve the fame ho? 

nourable 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 249 

nourable purpofes ; and therefore it may, per- 
haps, be as well in Scotland. 

The buildings on the north-weft fide are inac- 
cefiible. The outer wall, all round, is flanked 
with fquare towers, each of which has a fally 
port, with a ftrong door, ftudded with iron, and 
fecured with vaft bars and maflive hinges. 

In one of thefe towers, now fomewhat alter- 
ed from its original form, and ignominioufly con- 
verted into a mean publiohoufe, the abode of a 
perfon who keeps a tennis court, formed among 
the ruins ; Mortimer, lord of Wigmore, a neigh- 
bouring chieftain, was confined for many years ; 
and from him this part of the building is now 
denominated Mortimer* s Tower. 

Ludlow caftle is faid to have been firil built in 
the reign of Henry the firft, by Roger de Mont- 
gomery ^ earl of Shrew/bury and marfhal of Eng- 
land ; and Wharton, in his edition of Milton' } s 
works, fixes the date of its erection in the year 
1 112 : but it has been conjectured, that Roger 
de Montgomery only repaired the old caftle here, 
which had belonged to the eftates of Edric, earl 
of Shrewjbury, who was difpoffsifed of his pro- 
perty by the conqueror. 

It 



£$0 A JOURNEY 

It is, however, certain, that the family of 
Montgomery was in poneffion of this place about 
the period alluded to ; and that it was wrefted 
from it by Henry the firft, in confequence of re- 
bellion, 

Roger de Montgomery, before mentioned, in a 
fit of devotion, near the termination of a life fpent 
in military affairs, was (horn a monk of the Be- 
nedictine Abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul, which 
he had founded at Shrew/bury ; and where he 
lies interred. 

It was in the next reign held by the governor, 
for the Emprefs Maud ; but foon yielded to King 
Stephen, who laid fiege to it in perfon, attended 
by Prince Henry, fon of David the firft, king of 
Scots i whofe life the king faved at the rifque of 
his own, by cutting the ropes of a grappling 
engine, let down from the walls of the caftle. 

Henry the fecond granted it to the family of 
Fitz-warren, which leads me to mention a tra- 
ditionary report refpefting Hugh de Mortimer, of 
fVigmore. 

It feems, that in the progrefs of thofe feuds 
and jealoufies, which formerly fubfifted for ge- 
nerations between great families, fometimes 
fmothered by policy, and again breaking out into 

opea 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2$1 

open violence ; Tome of the attendants belonging 
to the Lord of Ludlow, being employed in cut- 
ting wood near the town, felzed the perfon of 
Mortimer, of Wigmore Cajlle, and conveyed him 
to their matter, by whom he was detained, in 
clofe confinement, till a great ranfom had been 
paid for his releafe. 

A fortunate turn of a card, or the making of a 
dice-box now transfers a great eftate, from the 
heir of one family to another ; in the feudal times 
a more lawlefs, though not a more jufl transition, 
was made, by means of open force. 

Various pofTefTors held, and were deprived of 
Ludlow caflle, till the time of Henry the fixth, 
in whofe ieign Richard Plantagenet, duke of 
Tork, here affembled his followers and partizans, 
and fet up his flandard, in open defiance of his 
fovereign. 

The caflle was, however, after a fhort refill* 
ance, given up to the king's forces, and was by 
them difmantled. 

Richard Plant agenet was killed at the battle of 
Wakefield, and the cruelties exercifed on fome of 
his adherents fo exafperated his fon Edward, who 
does not appear to have been before engaged in 
bis father's rebellion, that he immediately col- 
lected 



2$2 A JOURNEY 

leeted his dependants, and being foon joined by 
the Welch, got poffeffion of Ludlow caflle, with- 
out refinance. 

The town, indeed, feems to have aflifted him 
m his projecled enterprife ; and, accordingly, 
when he had defeated the earl of Pembroke, at 
Mortimer's Crofs, and obtained pofTeflion of the 
throne, we find him bufily employed in reft or- 
ing this ancient fortrefs, and recompenfing the 
inhabitants -for their zealous attachment to him, 
by a charter of privileges. 

In his reign it became the refidenee of the 
iieir apparent, and from hence the unfortunate 
prince, under the title of Edward the fifth, was 
with his- brother, Richard Plantagenet, duke of 
York, removed to a more convenient place for 
file perpetration of the horrid deed, by which 
they were deprived of the crown, and of their 
lives, by the agents of their unnatural uncle, the 
Duke of Gloucefter, afterwards King Richard the 
third. 

Prince Arthur, elded fon of King Henry the 
feventh, kept his court here, after his affiance 
with Catharine of Arragon, but died in a few 
months. 



However^ 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 253 

However, the fplendour of Ludlow was not 
extinguifhed by that event : for the importance 
of pofTeffing this fortrefs being fufficiently under- 
ftood, in thofe turbulent and unfettled ages, 
while the fovereign had any reafon to fear the 
encroachments or difaffection of the borderers ; it 
was thought convenient to make ufe of it for the 
purpofe of checking the power of the Welch, and 
in order to ftretch the regal authority beyond 
thofe limits, which the free and independent 
fpirit of the barons had prefcribed to the autho- 
rity of the later princes, 

The long reign of Henry the feventh, and the 
fecurity of his title, after the deftruclion of Perkin 
Warbeck, contributed to the advantages with 
which his fon afcended the throne : and the dif- 
pofition of Henry the eighth, arbitrary, infolent* 
and defpotic, aided by the fuccefs of all his en- 
terprizes, under the administration of Cardinal 
Wclfey, and the increafe of power and of wealth, 
gained by the fuppreflion of monafteries, en- 
couraged him to lay the foundation of the court 
of marches, as a ftep the molt probably condu- 
cive to a complete and abfolute eftablifhment of 
uncontrolled authority. 

This- 



2 $4 A JOURNEY 

This court, confiding of a lord prefident 9 
and an indefinite number of counfellors, at the 
king's pleafure, with a fecretary, folicitor, attor- 
ney, and four juftices for the counties of Wales, 
extended its exorbitant influence over that unhap- 
py country, with a degree of capricious defpotifm, 
on which, in thefe enlightened days of liberty^ 
and of juftice, we can not reflect without horror 
and aftonifhment. 

The pomp and magnificence of this eftablifli- 
ment, fo well calculated to attract public reve- 
rence and refpect, feem not fo much intended 
to maintain the dignity of thofe ,-who were ap- 
pointed to execute the laws, as to place them at 
a vafl diflance from the people, who reforted to 
their tribunal j and to dazzle the eyes of the in- 
ferior orders. 

The court of marches was a fit inflrument in 
the hands of a politic prince, for fubjugating 
the independence cf the nobles, as well as for 
checking the growth of the fir ft feeds of freedom, 
and fupprefling the dawn of liberty among the 
people. 

Henry, whofe artifices were equal to any emer- 
gency, well knew how neceflary it would be to 
commit the management of this new eftablifh- 
ment to a man of acknowledged probity, and 

one 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2$$ 

one who could not be fufpe&ed of a defign to 
abridge the influence of the peers, or extend the 
regal prerogative. 

The benefit which he expected to derive from 
it, was, moreover, to be effected gradually; and 
it was referved to the king himfelf, to remove 
the lord prefident, as well as the reft of the offi- 
cers, at his own pleafure ; fo that by conferring 
that honour at firfl, on a man not blindly and 
implicitly attached to his own principles, he had 
at once an opportunity of proving the fidelity of 
that man, and of deceiving his fubjects into a 
belief, that the court of marches was really de- 
figned for their fecurity and advantage. 

Rowland Lee, bifhop of Coventry and Litihjield, 
was the firfl perfon entrufted with the important 
office of lord prefident ; and to that prelate fuc- 
ceeded, 

Richard Samp/on, bifhop of Chejier, 1544. 

John, lord Dudley, duke of Northumberland* 

Sir William Herbert , earl of Pembroke, 

Nicholas Heath, bifhop of Worcester, and after- 
wards arch bifhop of Tork, and chancellor 
of England, 

William, earl of Pembroke, agnin. 

Gilbert Brown, bifhop of Bath and Wells, 

Sir 



2 $6 A JOURNEY 

Sir John Williams, lord Williams, of Tame* 

Sir Henry Sidney, K. G. and father of the vir- 
tuous, learned, and accomplifhed Sir Phi* 
lip Sidney, 1564. 

Henry Herbert, earl of Pembroke. 

Edward, lord Zoiich. 

Ralph, lord Eure. 

Sir John Egerton, earl of Bridgewater, 1634. 

Richard, lord Vaughan, carl of Carbury, 1649. 

Henry Somerfet, marquis of Worcefter, 1673. 

Prince Rupert, prince palatine of the Rhine. 

Henry Somerfet (now) duke of Beaufort, mar- 
quis of Worcefter, K. G. lord lieutenant of 
the county of .Gloucefter, and of the city 
and county of the city of BriftoL 

Sir John Bridgeman. 

Charles, earl of Macclesfield. 

There are three principal seras pointed out by 
the architecture, as well as the hiflory of Ludlow 
cattle, which are interefiing to thofe who exa- 
mine it. 

The time of Roger de Monto Gomeri, who erect- 
ed it, in fomething like its prefent form. 

The period of its being fitted up for a royal 
feat by Edward the fourth. 

And 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 257 

And the improvements and additions made ia 
the days of Sir Henry Sidney. 

The great tower, and apartments on the weft 
and north-weft fides, with the circular part of the 
chapel, are, I conceive, the work of the original 
founder. 

The buildings on the left of the entrance, and 
fome low rooms toward the eaft fide, were pro- 
bably the additions made to it by Edward the 
fourth ; or built at the time it was occupied by 
Prince Arthur : and the remainder, which in- 
cludes the gate- way, and a long range of embat- 
tled buildings, near the entrance of the outer 
court, is evidently the alteration of later times, 

It is recorded, that an old tower, called the 
Magazine Tower, which ftands on the left-band 
fide of the gate-way, was rebuilt by Sir Henry 
Sidney : — the whole of the works are, however, 
completely ruinous, and pi&urefquely covered 
with ivy, whofe luxuriant foliage hangs grace- 
fully from the roughened wall. 

A gold ring, with a diamond, fet between two 
cornelians, was found fome years fmce, and pre- 
fented to the Earl of Powis. The guide informed 
me, that it had a Hebrew motto, and a date ear- 
ly in the eleventh century ; but from the account 

S which 



258 A JOURNEY 

which he gave of it, I am inclined to fuppofe, 
that it was French in (lead of Hebrew. Some 
pieces of coin were alfo difcovered at the fame 
time, and feveral fculls. 

Among the events which tradition has handed 
down, relative to the cattle, is the vifit which 
was made to it by King Charles the firft, in the 
prefidency of Lord Bridgswaier ; but it is ren- 
dered clailic by having been the icene of Milton's. 
" Comus," which was written and performed for 
the entertainment of the fame nobleman. 

The fuhjecl of (he maik (as is well known) was 
taken from a circumitance which occurred to 
Lord Brackley*, Lady 'Alice, and the honourable 
Thomas Egerton, fons and daughter of the Earl 
of Bridgewater, who, in coming to Ludlow caf- 
tle, were benighted, and loft in a wood. 

At the Revolution it was found expedient to 
diffolve the authority of the court of marches, 
which was accordingly done, by an act of par- 
liament, as a u great grievance and opprefiion to 
u the fubjecl, an intollerable burden to the prin- 
£C cipality, and a means of fupporting arbitrary 
cs power." 

Thus the iron yoke, which had fo long galled 
the neck of the fubjecl in thefe parts, was, at 

length, 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 259 

length, broken ; and every true patriot mud ex- 
ult at the downfall of an authority, which had 
been only exerted in fupport of tyranny and op- 
prelTion. 

He will walk around thefe defolated walls, and 
triumph in their decay. His exultation will not 
be interrupted by any circumftance of perfbnal 
injufiice having been occafioned by their fall; 
nor damped by the reflection, that the rights or 
the comforts, even of a fingle individual, have 
been facrificed* 

Triumphant liberty, and the incalculable ad- 
vantages of impartial juflice, have fucceeded to 
a fcene of arbitrary, capricious, or vindictive 
punifhment. The rights of pofleflion and of in- 
heritance are now refpected, where the will of 
the tyrant was before the only law. 

Innocence no longer trembles at the mercilefs 
tribunal of an unjuft judge; but commits her 
caufe, with honefi confidence, to the faithful 
and unbiased decifion of an impartial jury. 

Guilt, clothed in the robe of greatnefs, or 

fhielded by the influence of wealth, no longer 

rears its head with prefumptuous fecurity ; no 

longer fcreens itfelf from deferved punifhment, 

S 2 under 



1 60 A JOURNEY 

under the fplendid veil of rank ; nor defies 
the authority of the law, with the fword of 
power. 

Moulder ye dreary prifons ! once the abode of 
the oppreffed ! Perifh ye gorgeous palaces ! 
once the feat of the oppreflor ! and as ye flowly 
defcend into oblivion, may the decaying frag- 
ments of your tottering walls, teach fucceeding 
generations how to value the bleffings of that glo- 
rious liberty, which was founded for them on your 
ruins by the wifdom, and cemented with the 
blood, of a brave and virtuous anceflry. 

And as we venerate that wifdom, which was 
fo nobly exerted, and revere that facred blood, 
which our forefathers have fo copioufly and gal- 
lantly fhed, for the benefit of their poflerity : let 
us watch over the precious treafure which they 
have committed to our charge, with the mo ft anx- 
ious folicitude j— let us guard it from every fe- 
cret encroachment !— -let us preferve it from eve- 
ry public attack: and, having experienced the 
happinefs and benefit of pofTefiing it ourfelves> 
Iti us determine to hand it down to our chil- 
dren's children, with its luftre unfullied, and its 
energy unimpaired ! That neither the tumult 

of 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 20~I 

jdF factious inquietude, nor the rage of party zeal, 
nor the ambitious defigns of corrupt minifters, 
mav at any time reftrain the free exercife of all 
thofe civil and religious rights, for which cur 
forefathers fought and died ; nor abridge that 
liberty, which has been pur chafed by fo dear a 
facrifice. 

The Guild-hall of Lt/dlow is a handfome mo- 
dern edince, fituated in a well-built, but retired 
flreet, not far from the caflle: and it is to be 
mentioned, to the great honour of the opulent 
and refpectable corporation, that the town is in- 
debted to their munificence for a bridge, an 
alms-houfe, and a town-hall, erected within the 
compass of a few years :— an example of libera- 
lity and generous concern for the public advan- 
tage, which reflects honour on themfelves, and 
affords a ufeful example for the imitation of 
others. 

The corporations of this country, as remnants 
of the feudal fyftem, and as bodies of men, privi- 
ledged above their fellow fubjects, for very often 
imaginary reafons ; or, what is dill worfe, for 
mean and unbecoming fubmiflions to arbitrary 
power, for fervile attachment to the worft of 
S 3 men 9 



062 A JOURNEY 

men, in the worft of times, have been regarded 
with a jealous eye ever fince liberty began to be 
rightly underflood, and duly ePdmated among us. 
The innumerable abufes which have been 
cheriihed in thefe hot-beds of ariftocracy, call 
loudly for the attention of the legiflature ; and, 
while every poflible degree of vigour is given to 
the executive government, by (trengthening the 
hands of adminiftration 3 when extraordinary 
powers are really neceffary, the wifdom of par- 
liament is deeply concerned in preventing, by 
falutary regulations, the pernicious effects of 
that uncontrouled authority, which, in many 
corporations, is lodged in unworthy hands, and 
too often exerted to the prejudice, rather than 
the benefit m the community ; for however men 
may differ in determining the meafures of civil 
obedience to fovereign power, they mud all 
agree in detefting oppreffion and tyranny, as 
contrary to the proper ends of government, 
which is confeffedly defigned for the protection 
and fecurity, and not for the deftruction of man- 
kind. 

City luxury, feafting, and extravagance, 
though fo common as to have become pro- 
verbial. 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2,6$ 

verbial, and notwithstanding they bave no direcl 
tendency to increafe the comforts of the poor, 
or promote good morals in the world, are not 
•the worft abufes to which corporations are fub- 
ject : for, to fay nothing of undue influence 
and bribery at elections, of unfair patro 
and of the impolicy, as well as injuftice of fub- 
•mitting the intereils of the many, to the abfo- 
lute coniroul of a few, it is to be feared, that 
jiot only the revenues of eftates which are veiled 
in fome corporations for the public advantage, 
but that the income of charities placed under 
their guidance and direction, for the comfort of 
the poor, are. fometimes applied to the ufe of in- 
.dividuals, whofe rneannefs tempts them to pil- 
fer, and whofe fituatioxxs fcreen them from pu* 
nifhment. 

For one inftance, like that of Ludlow? where 
the corporation has uniformly evinced a truly 
patriotic and liberal philanthropy, a thoufand 
might be adduced, where neither patriotifm 
nor philanthropy have been fo ranch as heard 
of; but where feif intereft grafps at exorbitant 
authority, and ufurps the place of every nnb'e 
and generous fentiraent. ~ 



264 A JOURNEY 



CHAP. XXV. 

Stole Cafile, — Downton. — Return to Ludlow, 

jt* rom Ludlow we made an excurfion to Stole 
Cqftle, an ancient ruin, and Downton Cqftle^ a 
modern feat. 

Patted Bromfield, a fmall village, with an old 
bridge over the Teme ; and purfuing the Shrews- 
bury road, enjoyed a pleafing view of the courfe 
of the river, which flows rapidly at the foot of 
a fine range of hills, beautifully wooded. 

Stoke Caftle (lands on the margin of the Teme, 
and may be confidered as a pi&urefque ruin, 
but its glory is fo much eclipfed by the fplendor, 
magnitude, and commanding fituation of Ludlow 
Caftle, that it is feldom noticed. 

CrofTed the Teme by another bridge, accom- 
panied with a fort of cafcade, formed by dividing 
the Itream, for the purpofe of turning a mill. 

Some rough rocks are feen among the wood, 
on the left, and here and there the fpiral fmoke 
afcends from the lime kilns, and diverfifies the 

profpeft 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 265 

profpecl. On the right is a lofty mountain, 
dotted with fheep, and crowned with a chaplet 
of rocks. 

At the diftance of feven miles from Ludlow, 
there is an ohelifk, on which are engraven the 
admeafured diftances to forty eight different 
cities and towns. 

Returning by the fame road, we turned into 
a dirty lane on the right, paffed a deep and nar- 
row valley, full of wood, crofTed a turnpike 
road, and foon arrived at the feat of Richard 
Payne Knight, Efq. 

Mr. Shaw in his " Tour through the Weft of 
« England" has been quoted as mentioning 
Downfall Caftle in a flyle of panegyric, at which 
confidering the tafte and abilities of that gentle- 
man, and the general impartiality of his defcrip- 
tions, I can not but exprefs my furprife. 

He fays, that the proprietor, " Mr. Knight, 
" having feen mod of the beft edifices, both an- 
" cient and modern, had collected divers hints 
< c from the various ftyles of building, from 
" which he determined to raife fomething to re- 
" femble the habitations of the ancient Barons ; 
fC and fucceeded, fo as to be the admiration of 
*< all viators." 

That 



0.66 A JOURNEY 

That a fum little fhort of fixty thoufand 
pounds (which Downton caftle is faid to have 
cofl) fhouid have been capable of raifing a ftruc* 
lure fomething like an ancient baronial refidence, 
is not at all furprifing, as there are fo many mo- 
dels of that fpecies of building, whofe plan is 
yet eafily to be traced in various parts of Great 
Britain, as well as in foreign countries. But 
that fo large a fum could have been laid out 9 
with fuch an object folely and entirely in view; — 
with fo many advantages refulting from the aid 
of genius and tafte, every day improving ;— 
with fo much afiiftance from the beautiful and va ? 
ried fcenery around the fpot ;— >and all to no 
better purpofe, is to me, indeed, a matter of 
real aftonifhment. 

Before we vifited Downton I could not help re- 
marking, that the man who prefumed to imitate 
an ancient caftle, within an hour's ride of Ludlow, 
ought at lead to poifefs no fmall fhare of that 
fpecies of fortitude which would enable him to 
withftand the criticifm of thofe who might be 
inclined to view it with a fcrutinizing eye; becaufe 
the perfect fpecimen of feudal fplendor which 
Ludlow caftle furniftied as a model, would be 
frelh in the memory of almofl every traveller 

likely 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 267 

likely to vifit Dowriton ; and, in a certain degree, 

would enable even very unfkilful perfons to form 

a tolerable judgment of the comparative merits 

of the imitation. 
I 

But whatever might be my ideas on the fub- 
jecl, or whatever impreffion might have been 
made on my mind by the lively panegyric and 
flattering encomia of Mr. Shaw and Mr. Cum- 
berland, I mall endeavour faithfully to defcribe 
the appearances of this very extraordinary place, 
and leave my readers to form their own conclu- 
fions as to the' confiftency of the plan, and the 
merits of its execution. 

Downton caftle (lands on an eminence, com- 
manding a beautiful view of a fmall, but elegant 
valley, through which the river Teme winds, 
with a fweep which appears rather artificial. 

The oppofite bank is (budded with trees, decked 
with groves, and ornamented with a rich diver- 
fity of interefting objects. 

On the right, what is called an Alpine bridge 
crofTes the 'Feme, clofe to a neat cottage, which, 
I believe, ferves for a lodge. 

In approaching the houfe we pafTed through a 
deep and fhady glen, at the bottom of which a 

fmall 



C6$> A JOURNEY 

fmall noify ft ream rufhes impetuguily among 
the rocks and ftones. 

The ftable firfl prefented itfelf, — a long regu- 
lar building, with' an embattled parapet and 3. 
double row of gothic windows. 

We entered through a modern iron gate to 
the fouth-weft front, which may be called regu- 
larly irregular ; for it confifts of feveral parts, 
each diffimilar to the others, but each uniform 
in its own parts. 

It is embattled, and built with (lone, in which 
particulars only it can, with propriety, be faid 
to refemble an ancient caftle ; for the windows 
are all fquare modern fames, and the door-way 
is equally fafhionable, and equally inconfiftent. 

One of the angles of the building is terminated 
by an octagon tower, the other by a diminutive 
circular turret, containing a clofet with a fquare 
fafti- window. 

Nothing within fight of the building bears 
the fmallefl appearance of the antique, — nothing 
in the interior has any relationfhip to the ftately 
and magnificent fabrics of ancient days, unlefs 
we except the gloominefs of the dining room, 
which occupies the greater of the two towers, 
and is the largeft apartment in the houfe. 

This 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 269 

This room is circular, and I believe (for the 
guide was unable to convey the fmallefl particle 
of information refpecting that, or any other cir- 
cumftance) about twenty-eight or thirty feet in 
diameter, with four receffes, furnifhed with as 
many fide-boards, between very large pillars, 
placed in couples. 

An organ (lands on the fide oppofite to the 
window ; and the ceiling rifes into a dome, with 
a lanthorn on the top. Four niches above the 
fide-boards are filled with bronze flatues. 

The reft of the apartments are commodious, 
but not particularly finking, and the whole range 
is terminated by the fmall round tower before 
mentioned. 

In the library, which is too fmall to contain 
the books belonging to it, is a picture of Mr. 
Knight, the proprietor of the manfion, who is 
the author of feveral literary performances of 
great merit, and a gentleman whofe private cha- 
racter and domeftic worth, are univerfally ap- 
plauded. 

The bed chambers are well-finifhed and ele- 
gant apartments, and one of them has a very 
rich chintz bed in a recefs, ornamented with pil- 
lars and piladers of the Tufcan order, whofe 

bafes 



'2JO A JOURNEY 

bafes and capitals are of the mod delicate white 
marble, exquifitely poliflied. 

The plantations which immediately furround 
Downton, are elegantly difpofed 3 and would re* 
He£l credit on the place if the appellation of Caf- 
ile had not been afiumed. It would, however, 
be very eafy, by levelling the battlements, and 
removing the towers, to convert into a modern 
looking houfe, that which is fo very improperly 
termed Downton Cqflk. 

Nature has lavifhed the charms of wood, wa- 
ter, hill, and valley, with all the beautiful irregu- 
larity of her own fimple and unrivalled elegance, 
on the neighbouring country ; and if Mr. Knight 
had expended half the fum which it has cod him 
to provoke fatirical reflections on his extraordi- 
nary tafte in building, in repairing the roads near 
his feat, he might have poffefled one of the moft 
elegant and complete refidences, — one of the 
prettied villas which this country can boaft, 
without the mortification of finding every vifkor 
a critic, — without incurring the frowns of the 
fadidious,— -or provoking a comparifon of this 
trwnved imitation of the ancients, with works 
which muPc every day bring it not only into dif- 
repute, but even into contempt. 

On 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 1J I 

On our return from Dozunton^ by another 
road, a fmall and beautiful lake attracted our 
notice, inclofed with a plantation of iirs and 
larch trees ; and not far from it, a much lefs 
pleafing object caught the attention, and (hewed 
the different impreflions which the mimic efforts 
cjf art, and the ftriking fimplicity of nature, are 
capable of producing : — this is, I believe, another 
of Mr. Knlghfs prettyifms, — a farm-houfe, fitted 
up to refemble a church ; but whofe agricultural 
appendages foon undeceive the eye, and prefently 
make it appear as much unlike the holy edifice 
it mocks, as the modern-antique manfion of 
Downtcn is unworthy of the dignified title of a 
caftle. 

The bold eminencies on our right, robed in a 
mantle of wood, and fkirted with meadows of 
the livelier! verdure, through which the Terrie 
winds its courfe, by the Me of the road, are ob- 
jects fufficiently beautiful to imprefs the mind in 
the mod forcible and agreeable manner. 

After croffing another bridge, clofe to a mill, 
and a cafcade, entered Oakley Park, the feat of 
the Dowager Lady Cli-ve. 

The park is varied with feveral gentle fwells, 

and laid out, on the eaftern fide, with elegant 

i plantations, 



2^2 A JOURNEY 

plantations) which are confiderably improved bf 
the meanders of the river ; but it is mod remark- 
able for the rich fcenery of its majeflic oaks, 
which are profufely fprinkled over the grounds 3 
in the height of fylvan beauty. 

Here, " in Elyfian vales young zephyrs fling 
<c .Ambroiial fweets, amid perpetual fpring ; 
" And from furrounding groves, where diftant views 
ei Difplay their velvet tufts in golden hues, 
" i\.ll-foothing harmony iteals forth to bear 
" Her founds feraphic to the melting ear." 

The houfe is a neat brick building, and is faid 
to contain fome good paintings, but they are not 
fhewn to flrangers. 

Regained the road, and foo-n approached Lud- 
low, whofe fine old caille, proudly towering over 
the vale, and the gentle Teme, which glides be- 
neath its ruins, again called forth our admiration 
and delight, and carried our imagination back 
to the romantic days of its primeval greatnefs. 

The fun was declining, and the rolling clouds, 
furled in tremendous fhapes juft above the hori- 
zon, difplayed the fine bold line which marks 
the fummit of Caer Caradoc, and the neighbour- 
ing mountains. 

On 



INTO SOUTH WALE?* 273 

On our right the wood of White Cliff brought 
the revelry of Comus^ and his midnight crew* 
frefh into the memory ; while the lowing kine, 
difperfed thro&gh the meadows, and the mufic 
of diflant bells, foothed the mind into calm tran- 
quillity, and prepared it for the ftillnefs of eve- 
ning. 

<l Now fades the glimmering landfcape on the fight, 
<l And all the air a folemn itillnefs holds, 
" Save where the beetle wheels his droning flight, 
u And drowfy tinklings lull the diftant folds : 

*' Save that from yonder ivy-mantle J tower 
" The moping owl does to the moon complain, 
et Of fuch as wand'ring near her fecret bower, 
" Molefl her ancient folitary reign. " 

The reader will recoiled* that Caer Caradoc 
was the poft affumed by the brave Caraclacus 9 
before his engagement with Ojlorius Scapula. 



274 A JOURNEY 



CHAP. XXVI. * 

Road from Ludlow to Bridgenorth-~<witb fame Account of the 

latter. 

Having at laft taken leave of Ludlow we pur- 
foed our journey by the road to Bridgenorth? 
firft afceriding very gradually for' a mile or two, 
and afterwards winding round the foot of the 
Clee hills. 

" Diftant views of the Welch mountains, of 
Malvern, in Worceflerjloire, and of the noble 
Wrekin, the gloiy of Shropjhire, fuccefiively of- 
fered themfelves, as we approached the fummit 
of a lofty hill ; and having parTed it, became 
gradually obfcure, as the obje&s on the eaftern 
fide grew more diftincl. 

The firft building which we diftinguifhed in 
the neighbourhood of Bridgenorth, was a hand* 
fome new church at the end of the town : and 
having amufed ourfelves with tracing the courfe 
of the Severn among the fields, we made our 
entrance through a crooked ill-paved ftreet, which 
leads to the market-place. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. ZJ $ 

The town covers a confiderable extent of 
ground, and being built clofe to, and upon the 
river's bank, many of the (treets and lanes are 
fo deep, that it is both difficult and dangerous to 
ride through them ; and the narrow alleys, in 
many inftances, confifl of a long flight of, per- 
haps, an hundred and fifty fleps. 

The old church, which (lands in the weftern 
part of the town, has a large fquare tower, built 
with reddiOi Hone ; but the church has a very 
mean appearance, from being repaired with brick 
work. It is large, and fitted up with galleries, 
but has neither monuments nor painted glafs re- 
maining, having fuffered greatly in the days of 
Cromwell. 

Over the gate of an alms-houfe, in no good 
condition, is an infcription, fetting forth that it 
was erected for " the reception of ten poor wi- 
" dows, by the Reverend Francis Palmer, rector 
" of Sandy, in Bedford/hire, who had an afTec- 
" tion for this place, becaufe his mother was 
" buried here ;" and that fhe was the filter of 
Colonel Francis Billing/ley, of Abbots Ajlley, in 
this county, who was flam in the church-yard 
here, fighting for his royal matter, King Charles 
the firft. 

T 2 The 



£j6 A JOURNEY 

The new church has been erected only a few 
months. luftands on a terrace on the bank of 
the Severn, and has an agreeable walk carried 
round it, which commands a pleafing view of 
the fine meadows by the Severn-fide, and the 
bold, but dreary ridge which forms its eaflera 
bank. 

The fite of the cadle is partly occupied by the 
new church, and partly by a fchooi at the ea(i 
end of it. A few fragments only remain, the 
wreck of its former iirength. 

A leaning tower, which fuftained a violent 
attack of the parliamentary forces in the Rebel- 
lion, is partly Handing. Its height is about 
thirty feet, and having flipped off its bafis, it 
declines at lean 1 ten from the perpendicular. 
The appearance of it is Angular, but the diflor- 
tion of its pofture offends the eye. It has often 
brought to the recollection of the traveller the 
famous leaning tower at Pi/a, in Italy, which, 
Mrs. Piozzl fays, does not decline from the 
perpendicular more than this. 

Henry the firft befieged Bridge, or Bridge- 
north, with fuccefs, it being then a fortrefs of 
confiderable flrength; and in the reign of King 
Richard the fecond, the cuftody of it was com- 
mitted 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 277 

mitted to Hugh de Burnell, a favourite of that 
monarch, who lies buried at Hales Owen, in this 
county. It is faid to have been built by Elfleda, 
Queen of the Mercians, and completed about 
the eleventh century. 

Several bombs have been dug up here, and the 
combuftibles remained per feci:, having been ac- 
cidentally prevented from going off. 

The Severn is neither very deep nor rapid, 
but its dream rolls gracefully along, and after 
p ailing a rocky cliff, runs under the bridge, 
which is long and narrow ; and forms a fmali 
ifland, planted with fruit trees. 

To the river, in this place, may be defervedly 
applied thofe matchlefs lines of Sir John Den- 
ham. 

" Though deep, yet. clear, though gentle, yet not dull ; 
*' Strong, . without rage, without o'erilowing, full." 

We crofTed the Severn, and from the oppofite 
bank were gratified with a fine profpect of the 
town, the churches, the bridge, and the river, 
. with the gardens that adorn its banks. 

The high cliff, on which fome of the houfes 

are built, and the different /helving ledges which 

fupport others, are variegated by the romantic 

T 3 appear- 



278 A JOURNEY 

appearance of the face of the rock, and the in- 
termixture of trees and gardens. 

At the verge of the town, entered on a com- 
mon, the foil of which is fandy, and its covering 
a foft green turf. On the right, a village church 
rears its modeft fpire, not far from the banks of 
the Severn, which foon deviates towards the 
fouth, and is loft among the meadows. 

Having gained the fummit of an eminence, we 
found ourfeives on a race-courfe, the extent of 
which we could not trace, but obferved that this 
part of it was undermined with rabbits. 

A fide view of a flip of cultivated and populous 
country interpofed between this dreary region 
and the lofty hills on the weftern horizon, has a 
pleafing effect ; and at fome diftance from the 
road, in an oppofite direction, is a handfome 
houfe, embowered among (lately trees ; and near 
it, the fpire of the church darts out of a plantation. 

The fheep fed here, appear of a larger breed 
than thofe in the weftern parts, and are of the 
horned kind. 

Fern and furze, or, as it is termed, gorfe grows 
fo abundantly, that the occupiers of the land 
confume it, without cutting. 

We 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 27 9 

We faw none on fire, but large patches on ill 
fides had been lately burnt, as we were convinced 
by the fmelL 

Thi^ practice feems to have been general for 
ages, for when King Charles ihe fir ft honoured 
tht neighbouring county or Stafford with a vifir, 
th High Sheriff received a letter from the Earl 
of Pembroke and Montgomery, commanding him 
to direct the inhabitants of thofe parts to forbear 
the burning of ruize and fern, during his Ma- 
jefty's progrefs, left it (hould occafionrain, agree- 
able to an opinion long eftablifhed in Stafford/hire. 



X 4 



28o A JOURNEY 



CHAP. XXVII. 

Termination of the Ride to Dudley. — Himley. — Dudley Cajih. 
— ReJlefiwn Sm 

The morning was calm, but the clouds refted 
on the fummit of the hills behind us : hitherto, 
however, the threatened fhower had not reached 
us ; but the bleating of fheep on the heath, the 
lowing of cattle in the diftant paftures, the yelp* 
ing of mepherds' dogs, and the (till more cer- 
tain fignal'which was difplayed on the top of the 
hills, bade us fpeedily expect it. At laft down, 
it poured with raging impetuofity. 

" A burft of rain 
u Swept from the black horizon, broad defcends A 
i( In one continuous flood. Still over head, 
" The mingling tempeft weaves its gloom, and ftilj 
* f The deluge deepens, till the fields around 
« Lie funk, and flatted in the fordid wave." 

At the termination of the common over which 
we were palling, is a rifing ground, which af- 
fords a retrofpe&ive glimpfe of the town of Bridge- 
north : and now we entered the enclofures, and 

foou 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 28 1 

foon arrived at a crofting of the road, where we 
turned to the left for Dudley, in Worcefterfhire* 

A narrow lane conducted us to Bovingdon, a 
fmall village, with a neat church, whimfkally 
furmounted with four balls, and fituated clofe to 
a handfome piece of water, which feems to be 
kept with as great neatnefs, as if it belonged to 
a nobleman's park, though I believe it, in truth, 
ranks no higher at prefent, than a mill-pond. 

Farther on, is an old family feat with a lake, 
and a fhort avenue leading to it ; and contigu- 
ous, a well-built modern farm-houfe. 

Near this is Blake-lands, the manfion of Mr* 
Marran, whofe achievement was over the 
door. 

Having pafifed a few draggling houfes, which 
belong to the village of Bovingdon, we entered 
on another common, covered with fhort heath, 
of a mod difmal uninviting colour. 

The fields on the left are, indeed, in tillage, 
but do not exhibit the appearance of fertility. 

The afpect of every thing around us, the co- 
lour of the roads, and the fmutty faces of the 
children, who occafionally parTed by, informed 
us, that we had reached 

" The dark Vulcanian land." 

where 



282 A JOURNEY 

where the fons of labour, and the daughters of 
induftry, a hardy race, have fixed their abode ; 
while the thundcrings of the anvils greeted our 
approach. 

The road are chiefly repaired with the drofs, 
afhes, and cinders of the forges ; and the colour 
of the ground, where its furface is denuded of 
the natural covering, is nearly as black as the 
mineral which is dug from its in mod bowels. 

Sir Robert Atkins , author of '" a Hiftory of 
" Gloucejlerjhire" fays, that if a line were laid 
from the mouth of the Severn to Newcaflle, and 
fo paifed round the globe, coal is to be found 
withi'n a degree of that line, and fcarcely in any 
other part of the world. The affertion certainly 
wants proof, and mud for ever want it ; but the 
thought deferves the attention of philofophers. 
It is certain, that if a line be drawn from Dor- 
chefler, in Dorfeijhire, to the Wafh between Lin* 
coin/hire and Norfolk, all the beds of chalk met 
with in this iiland, are to be found on the fouth- 
eaft fide of that line. 

Rode through H'miley, where is a fpacious park, 
and elegant feat ot Lore Vi!count Dudley and 
Ward, a nobleman whole am able manners, li- 
beral conduct, and benevolent difpoiition, are 

far 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 283 

far more illuftrious, than all the dignity of birth, 
or the fplenciour of tirles ; for they have only a 
claim to exterior refpecT* while u we referve our 
" efteem and veneration for mining talents, and 
" meritorious fervices." 

rt To birth, wealth, pow'r, we fhould allow 
M Precedence, and our lowed bow ; . 
<c In that is due diltinclion ftiewn : 
" Efteem is Virtue's right alone." 

Himley-Hall (lands on a beautiful lawn, richly 
fprinkled with trees and decorated with a hand- 
fome piece of water ; and at the foot of a ma* 
jeftic Hope, covered with a fhady grove. 

Ci A bubbling fount diftills 
" A lucid lake, and thence defcends in rills ; 
" Around the grove a mead with lively green, 
ct Falls by degrees, and forms a beauteous feene.'* 

We pafTed through a populous and bufy coun- 
try to Dudley, and entered the town through a 
dirty, but tolerably well-built ilreet. 

As a place of great trade, it is rich, flourifh- 
ing, and refpectable ; and its cattle and priory 
have a claim to regard, from their antiquity. 

The caftle is fituated on an eminence, at the 
fouth-eaftern extremity of the town ; and retains 

the appearance of great ftrength. 

We 



£' 



O.S4 A JOURNEY 

We approached it by a gate-way, near twenty 
feet in height, which is the entrance to the Bar- 
bican, and palled three other gate-ways, before 
we reached the inner court. 

The walls are of immenfe thicknefs ; but the 
general appearance of the building indicates it 
to be more modern than the keep, which occu- 
pies an artificial mount at the north-wed corner, 
and confifls of the remains of two circular tow- 
ers, connected with low walls, in which is an 
arched entrance, not more than fix feet high. 

A pretty exact idea may be formed of the ori- 
ginal flate of this part of the ruin ; for it is ai- 
moft a complete fe&ion, from top to bottom, of 
the ancient building. 

There is an entrance gate on the eaft fide, and 
a range of apartments extends from it, along 
the fouth wall. 

Thefe rooms, which are of various fizes, have 
been habitable within the prefent century, but 
were accidentally confumed by fire. 

It is difficult to afcertain the original ufes of 
the feveral apartments ; and the appellations by 
which our guide diflinguiihed them, did not at 
^11 elucidate their hiftory. 

We 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 28j 

We-heard fomething of a great hall, and a ta- 
ble five and twenty yards long ; but there is no 
fingle apartment at prefent remaining, of half that 
extent. The kitchen is, however, a large room, 
and has very capacious fire places. 

Under the keep is a vaulted apartment, pro- 
bably intended as a lad refuge for the befieged, 
or perhaps a dungeon for prifoners. It is ffrong 
enough for the former, and gloomy enough for 
the latter purpofe. 

A fmall round tower has been erecled at the 
fouth-weft angle of the outer wall, which appears 
to have been founded on the ruins of a more an- 
cient building. 

Dudley caftle was one of the few fortrefTes 
which were built in the time of the Saxons ; or 
rather, it is one of a very few which remain at 
prefent. 

The etymology of proper names is not only 
difficult to be traced, but uncertain in the con- 
clufions to which it often leads. The foundation 
of this place has been attributed to a great man, 
whofe name was Dudo, or Dodo. 

Odo and Dodo were brothers of a great Mer- 
cian houfe, and lived at the beginning of the 
eighth century. They were the reputed founders 
i of 



226 A JOURNEY 

of Tewkejbury abbey, and are faid to have been 
buried at Per/bore, in IVorceJierJhire. Lord Vif- 
count Dudley and Ward has a portrait of Dudo, 
on which he is filled Earl of Coventrie Sommerie 
and Arden. 

It is certain, that Dudley caflle was bellowed 
by the Conqueror on William Fitz-Aufculph ; that 
It was held for the Emprefs Maud, againft King 
Stephen, and difmantled by Henry the fecond. 

It was veiled in the family of Sutton, in the 
reign of Queen Mary, and now gives the rank 
of Vifcount to that of Ward, by the title of Vif- 
count Dudley and Ward, of Dudley, 

The caflle (lands on an eminence, about a hun- 
dred feet above the neighbouring plain ; and it 
was fecured on the eaft and fouth fides by a dou- 
ble vallum of considerable depth. 

We walked round the ruins, and enjoyed a de- 
licious profpecl of the country below. No part 
of England, excepting the immediate vicinity of 
the metropolis, can vie with this in the imrnen- 
fity of its population. The whole furface of the 
country is not merely fprinkled with houfes and 
manufactories, but thick fat with towns, as far 
as the eye can reach. 

A fine 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 287 

A fine broad canal is feen vifiting with its ma- 
zy windings a thoufand forges, the founding of 
whofe repurcufiive anvils difturbs even the me- 
lancholy haunts of Dudley cattle, and its tottering 
towers. 

Once, perhaps, might this proud dwelling 
frown over the vaft expanfe, in all the fovereignty 
of feudal pre-eminence. Htr mighty lords here 
. alTembled their vaffals and dependants ; and from 
thefe courts ifTued the dread fentences of arbitra- 
ry punifhment, to all around them. 

The winding glade was fertilized for them ; 
and the wild native of the foreft bled for them 
alone. Nobles here cringed in mean fervility, or 
expiated the debt of fealty in galling chains and 
dreary folitude. 

How varied now the pleafing fcene ! A prof- 
peel wide extending, of induftrious opulence ! 
No proud, oppreiTive, or vindictive baron now 
rules thefe plains ; but induftry wields her fcep- 
tre in fecurity and peace. Diligence and inte- 
grity fupport her throne ; wealth and honour are 
her attendants. By her, the gloom of poverty 
is dirlipated ; and the miferies of want are driven 
from the land : and, where was formerly [em 

"the 



2f>8 A JOtJRNEV 

the profufely decked table of one great and 
boafling peer, thoufands of frugal, but of cheer- 
ful boards now fmoke with the homely, but fuf- 
ficient fare of the mechanic and the manufac- 
turer. 

" 'Tis indurhy fupplies 
gi The little temperance wants; and rofy health 
" Sits fmtling at the board." 

In the quarries of lime-ftone neat the fite of 
Dudley caftle, many curiofities have been found. 
The figures of (hells, and of infects are very com- 
mon } and fome, of the bodies of locufts, have 
been difcovered in great perfection. 

Thefe have been indifcriminately called " the 
" Dudley foffil ; M but the locufl ftone is the mod 
rare and curious. 

The ruins of the ancient priory are feen at 
the foot of the hill,- which is the fite of the caftle, 
but in a dilapidated condition. 

Taking leave of Dudley we paffed through the 
populous and induflrious country before-men- 
tioned, and purfued the road to Birmingham, 
amidft innumerable manufactories, engines, ma* 
chines, and carriages. 

At Tipton, 2l thriving village, two miles from 
Dudley ; and, in fhort, on all fides to which you 

turn 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 289 

turn your, eyes, the foioke of the forges afcends 
in copious volumes, and the noify anvils ring. 

The iron-mafters, to whom all the powers of 
mechanifm *are obedient, have filled this whole 
neighbourhood with wealth and induftry ; and 
the population is almoft incalculable. 

" Toil and be glad ! let induftry infpire 
u Into your quicken'd limbs, his buoyant breath : 
" Who does net a£t, is dead." 

The contrail between this part of the country, 
which really fwarms with inhabitants, and the 
defer ts of Cwm-Tytbe?t, in Wales, afforded a fe- 
ries of interefling reflections. 

The objects offered to our contemplation in 
that dreary wafte, were grand, ftriking, and ma- 
jeflic ! The abrupt precipice nodded over our 
heads in awful fublimity. The hills upreared 
their broad and fhaggy fides, and feemed to 
prop the Heavens. Down, with refiftlefs force, 
defcended the roaring cataract from the moun- 
tain's brow, and thundered through its craggy 
bed. 

There the eye is loft in the immenfity of the 
ruffet expanfe ; and the diftant horizon is 
ftirouded in a melancholy gloom. 

U No 



290 A JOURNEY 

No voice is heard, fave the refponfive ech*y 
to the torrent's roar, and the howlings of the 
northern blaft. Solitude fits enthroned in the 
dreary caverns of the defert, or (talks in awful 
majefty over the bare and rugged rocks ! The 
clouds his mantle ! and his pavillion the dark 
recefles of nature ! Far, far away is chafed the 
animal creation ; and man, fearful to encroach 
on the limits of this dread domain, juft ven- 
tures to caft an eye over the gloomy territory, 
and then flies to the comforts and enjoyments 
of focial life. 

Here the wild fcenery of the rocks and moun- 
tains, and the fterility of the defert are exchanged 
for the thronged city, and the crowded haunts 
of men, for a widely-extended profpect of arts, 
induftry, and cultivation, 

« 'till all 
« The ftretching landicape into fnioke decays." 

But while we admire the advancement of the 
arts, and the rapid improvements which beautify 
the face of the country, we can not but feel a 
degree of difguft as well as furprife, at the coarfe- 
nefs of dialecl; which prevails here, where every 
found is " corruption, barbarifm, and vulgarity 



33 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2gi 



CHAP. XXVIII. 



BIRMINGHAM. 



As we approached Birmingham, the road was 
obfcured with clouds of duft, and almofl: choked 
up by the multitude of paffengers. 

Boulton and Watt, two of the greateft manu- 
facturers in the kingdom, have prodigious works 
at Soho, about two miles from the town ; and 
the former refides on the fpot, in a very hand- 
fome houfe, furrounded by thriving plantations. 

The mint here is extremely curious ; but the 
whole procefs of the mechanical arts, as con- 
ducted with the afliftance of that profufion of 
machinery which is now in ufe, is fo wonderful, 
that it is impoffible to convey any tolerable idea 
of this complex fubjecl. 

Before we entered the town, the artificial ruin 
of a monadic edifice, called Hockley Abbey, built 
with cinders and vitrifications, at no great dif- 
tance from the road, but half hidden by the en- 
circling ivy, evinced a degree of tafte in whofe 
u 2 who 



292 A JOURNEY 

who defigned it, which it would be illiberal to 
pafs by without notice. 

<c Hail ! gentle pair, with genuine talle renn'd, 
" Who deck'd this grot, and rear'd thefe antique tow'rs ; 
il Round the feign 'd time -fliook walls, the ivy twin'd, 
6t And taught the trees to form thefe friendly bow , rs> 
* * # # *• 

<{ Here let the mufe's penfive vot'ry ftray, 

*' To whom fuch tranquil fcenes are ever dear; 

** Far hence, wild diffipation ! (hape thy way, 

" Virtue and Peace alone are licens'd here." 

Birmingham has all the advantages of a dry,, 
healthy, and pieafant fituation, fuperadded to 
that of coal mines in the immediate vicinity. It 
is the grand emporium of induftry and arts. Illi- 
berality has branded it with contemptuous epi- 
thets ; and one gentleman, who ought to have 
remembered, that the very fame indecency pre- 
vails at his beloved Oxford, has been very fevere 
on the circumflance of public path-ways being 
permitted to crofs the church -yards. 

It is true that there are abundance of difTenters 
at this place ; but it is not true, that there is 
very little regard for religion here> a remark "of 
which the author who firft broached it, ought 
to be afhamed. I do not think that there would 

be 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 293 

be more religion, if there were fewer fe&aries : 
but on the other hand, I believe there would be 
lefs. 

That religion has fome influence on the minds 
of the people, may be gathered from the honefty 
of their dealings, from the induftry of all clafTes, 
and from the alacrity with which they fupport 
public charities. 

" When the rich fhare part of their fuperflui- 
" ties with the indigent ; when the healthy, by 
" their labours, contribute to fuccour the feeble 
C£ and diftreffed, then humanity performs the 
" bed offices of fociety." 

The General Hofpital erected here about twen- 
ty years ago, though not built at the fole expence 
of the town, owes its chief fupport to the bene- 
ficence of the inhabitants. 

" It is a worthy edifying fight, 
*• And gives to human kind peculiar grace, 
V To fee kind hands attending day and night, 
** With tender miniflry, from place to place : 

fc " Some prop the head ; fome from the pallid face 
•' Wipe off the faint cold dews weak nature fheds : 

' " Some reach the healing draught ; the whilft to chafe 
" The fear fupreme around their foften'd beds, 
'* Some holy man by prayer, all opening Heaven di- 
" fpreds." 

u 3 m* 



294 A JOURNEY 

Birmingham contains many elegant buildings, 
particularly St. Philip's Church, and the Thea- 
tre : but it is without the convenience of flag- 
ftones. 

Population has been neceflarily diminifhed 
here, in a very confiderable degree, fince the be- 
ginning of the war ; although fome branches of 
the iron manufactory have been much benefited 
and increafed. 

In new flreet is a large building, liberally en- 
dowed as a fchool, by King Edward the fixth, 
the front of which is adorned with a ftatue of 
that monarch, and the following words : 
" Edward us fextus 
" fcholam hanc fundavit. 
" Anno regni 
" quinto." 

The barracks are handfomely built, and occu- 
pied by a regiment of horfe : but, notwithfland- 
ing the temptations, and the wants, which may 
naturally be expected to prompt men to the com- 
miffion of depredations, in a town of this fize, 
the greateit quietnefs and harmony has long pre- 
vailed, 

A generous fpirit of forbearance, and mutual 

charity has fucceeded to the phrenetic zeal 

1 4 which, 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 295 

which, a few years ago, involved the whole 
neighbourhood in confufion, and had nearly 
deluged it in blood. 

St. Martin's, which is the mother church of 
Birmingham, contains a fine ring of twelve bells. 
The church is of very remote antiquity, and 
undoubtedly founded in the time of the Saxons ; 
but lately cafed with brick. 

St. Philip's Church is an elegant modern pile, 
highly ornamented, and furmounted with a dome 
and cupola. The interior of this edifice is even 
gaudy ; and it may be ranked among the mod 
fplendid places of worfhip in England. On the 
front of the organ gallery is an infcription to com- 
memorate a benefaction of fix hundred pounds, 
given by the fovereign, towards the building of 
the church, at the inftance of Sir Henry Gouch, 
and the Right Honourable Sir Robert Walpole. 

Several neat monuments are placed againft the 
pillars; and among them, an affectionate tri- 
bute to the memory of a late minifter of the pa- 
rifh, erected by his flock. 

In Birmingham, an induftrious hive of bufy 
workmen, the traveller not too faftidious will 
find much to praife and to admire. 

U 4 The 



2^6 A JOURNEY 

The ftreets are in general handfomely, but 
not durably built ; and every new project which 
holds out the lure of advantage, is readily and 
eagerly patronized by a people who delight in 
fpeculation and activity. Indeed, the quick dif- 
patch which ufually follows a propofal to in- 
creafe the commercial intereds of the town, is, 
in fome infiances, productive of lading incon- 
venience. The line of canal, which has been 
lately finifhed, is one among feveral proofs 
which might be adduced of the errors occafioned 
by improvident hafte. There are no lefs than 
twenty-five locks in the immediate vicinity of 
the town, many of which a more matured re* 
flection would have rendered unnecerTary. 

The rapid increafe of Birmingham, both in 
fize and confequence, of late years, and the 
new figure which it has aflumed, or rather, the 
quick fuccefiion of improving alterations which 
have trociden on the heels of each other almofl 
daily, make us forget that it is a place of great 
antiquity : but while the philofopher contem- 
plates the expanfion of genius, and the pro- 
grefs of the arts in its modern day, the hifto- 
rian and the antiquary may direct their refearches 
with pleafure and advantage to the earlieft pe- 
riods 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 297 

nods of Brltijh (lory, in which it was entitled to 
diftinguifhed eminence. 

They will trace the formation of thofe rude 
inflruments of deftrucYion, with which the pri- 
mitive inhabitants of our ifland oppofed the inva- 
ders of their freedom, to the anvils of Birming- 
ham. The fpear, the fnield, and the war cha- 
riot; the well-tempered bow, and the maflive 
battle-axe ; together with every other device of 
hodility, which the Romans found among us, 
were probably from hence. But while the na- 
tives of this indubious foil have been employed 
in forging the weapons of deftru&ion for others ; 
and while their hands have, formed the inflru- 
ments of contention; linked in the bonds of har- 
mony themfelves, every fraternal fentiment has 
been kindly cherimed, and, with a few excep- 
tions, the only emulation now to be traced 
among them is, who fhall mod: excel in the mo- 
deration of his principles, the generofity of his 
difpofition, and the liberality of his opinions. 

Birmingham is faid to be a very healthy town, 
and it is indebted for this advantage to the airy- 
nefs of its buildings, and the drynefs of the foil ; 
but probably more than either, to the quantity 

of 



298 A JOURNEY 

of garden ground which is cultivated around it. 
Almofl every houfekeeper is poifefled of a little 
fpot of land near the town, though perhaps at 
fome diftance from his habitation ; and thither he 
retires every evening in the fummer feafon, as 
foon as the fatigues of buiinefs are over, to 
breathe a purer air, and innocently employ him- 
felf in cultivating his cabbages and pot-herbs. 

The appearance of thefe minute inclofures is 
whimfical, and the ornament of a fmall fummer- 
houfe, or alcove, in which the proprietor fre- 
quently enjoys the fublime amufement offmoking, 
is indeed no very graceful addition to the picture : 
but the wholefomenefs and advantage to which 
the cultivation of thefe flips of induftry has a 
direct tendency, makes the friend of focial hap- 
pinefs overlook their defects. 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 299 

C HAP. XXIX. 

Excurjion to Shenjlone's Lea/owes. 

Not merely becaufe it is ufual or fafhionable 
to make an excurfion to the Leafowes, but be- 
caufe the memory of Shenftone mud be ever 
dear to the fentimental traveller, to whofe de- 
light the refinement of his genius has fo much 
contributed ; we rode thither early in the morn- 
ing, through a fruitful and varied country, more 
remarkable for the neatnefs of its culture, than 
the ftrength of its features. 

Between fix and feven miles from Birmingham, 
the road brought us to an eminence, which com- 
mands an extenfive profpecl to the weft ; and at 
the fame inftant the eye drops down on the left, 
to the beautiful trees and fpruce hedge-rows 
which informed us of our approach to the Lea- 
/owes. 

Having fecured our horfes at a cottage, we 
defcended through a dingle, and palled a flone 
bridge truly ruftic, which brought us to the edge 
of the lawn on which the houfe is fituated, and 
whofe borders are enclofed with thofe romantic 
walks which at every ftep prefent a lively remem- 
brance 



300 A JOURNEY 

brance of the elegant genius by which they were 
originally traced. 

'• Farewell then, cities, courts and camps, farewell I 
** Welcome ye groves, here let mc ever dwell, 
*' From care, from bufmefs, and mankind remov'd, 
** All but the mufes and infpii ing love." 

Turned to the right under a thatched gateway, 
and deviated through a thicket, by the fide of a 
bubbling dream, till we reached a fmall lake, en- 
vironed with gentle Hopes, on one of which is 
a feat ; but' the view it formerly commanded of 
the valley near Hales Owen, is now^excluded by 
the high banks of the Stourbridge canal. 

Hence w T e w r andered at our leifure, unmolefted 
by intrufive gardeners, and undifturbed by im- 
pertinent guides,, through a delightful walk, 
which borders the lake, and then winds up a 
narrow valley. 

A fwelling bank on the oppofite fide, tipped 
with fir trees, has a bench from which the houfe 
is feen to great advantage ; and on the left, 
(what Shenjlone called " the priory-gate") a well 
imitated ruin. ' 

Strolled up the glen, by the mo ft rural and 
inartificial path imaginable, fhaded with fine trees, 
and varied with unequal ground. 

From 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 30C 

From a feat under an oak, a wild foreft-lpoking 
fcene prefents itfelf ; and on a pedeftal Somer- 
vile's urn 

" INGENIO ET AMICITI^E 

G UL I EL MI S OMER VI L E 9 

" G. S 

u PCS U IT 

" DEBITA SPARGENS LACRYMA 

" FAVILLA VATIS AMICI." 

The motto is repeated on the oppofite fide, 
but the (tone is mouldering into decay. 

Came to the root-houfe in a retired fpot, which 
has a femicircular bench (haded with mofs. Near 
it is another urn, appropriately infcribed 

" GENIO LOCI." 

A foft rill creeps over the pebbles, clofe to 
fome pretty yew trees, and the deep folemnity 
of their venerable fhade was increafed by the 
diftant chiming of the bells at Hales Owen. 

Afcended through the wood, and paifed a feat 

formed of the branches of trees, which brought 

us to the fumm't of the hill. A circle of firs, 

whofe denuded roots form a kind of reticular 

floor, contains an octagon feat, with a pedeftal, 

furmounted with a large bowl, infcribed with the 

well known provincial toaft, 

"AH 



302 A JOURNEY 

«« All friends round the Wrekin ;" 

and affords a very extenfive view over the coiin* 
try, commanding the bold f welling bofom of 
the Wrekin itfelf. 

Farther on is a rural alcove, from whence the 
opening towards the north-weft is varied with 
fine undulations of hill and valley, interfperfed 
with trees, corn fields, and buildings ; and at 
the foot of the meadow a little brook winds its 
filent flream. 

On a board at the back part of the buildings 
are the following charming lines, 

*< O you, that bathe in courtlye blyffe, 

" Or toyle in fortune's giddy fpheare, 
<e Do not too rafhlye deeme amyfTe, 

" Of him that bydes contented here. 

" Nor yet difdeigne the ruffet ftoale, 

" Which o'er each carelefle lymbe he flyngs, 

" Nor yet deryde the beechen bowle, 
" In which he quaffs, the limpid fprings. 

*' Forgive him, if at eve or dawne, 

« Devoide of worldlye cark, he ftraye ; 
" Or all befide fome flowerye lawne 

<c He wafte his inoffenfive daye. 
•« So may he pardonne fraude and Ilrife, 

" If fuch in courtlye haunt he fee, 
M For faults there beene in bufye lyfe, 

« From whyche thefe peaceful glennes are free." 

Defcended 



IHTO SOUTH WALES. 303 

Defcended acrofs the meadow towards the 
houfe, which is at prefent uninhabited, and en- 
tered a fmall plantation covering the north-eall: 
front of it. 

Under a beautiful cherry tree is a feat, with 
thefe lines : 

H If cares that to thy ftation cling, 
M Or griefs which from no vices fpring, 
'* With age, difeafe, or meer fatigue, 
'• Againft thy prefent quiet league, 
" Here feat thyfelf, and thou (halt find 
" Reft to thy body, and thy mind. 
'* But, know ! the genius of this wood, 
*' Sheds comforts only on the good, 
u Whilft here the vicious and profane, 
" Shall court her healing gifts in vain.' 5 

There can fcarcely be conceived a houfe bet- 
ter adapted to the rural and fimple ftile in which 
the grounds are laid out ; nor any which could 
adorn them fo much as this. The building is 
elegant, chafte, and fimple. I fay nothing of the 
flables, which are in a very different tafte, and 
childifhly tricked out with battlements. 

Turned to the right from the houfe, by the 
fide of a plantation, paffed a fmall piece of water, 
and entered the fkirts of a fine thick wood, 
which covers the hill on the eaftern fide of the 
grounds. 



304 A JOURNEY 

We were now in what Shenftone called the 
Lover's walk, and might eafily fancy the name 
of Delia infcribed on every tr^e. 

In a thicket, clofe to a murmuring dream, is an 
urn of the artificial (tone of Coade's manufactory. 

" Ah Maria! 

" Puellarum elegantiiliffia 

€€ Ah flore venuftatis abrepta ! 

, Vale! : 

" Heu quanto minus eft 

, " cum reliquis verfari 

cc quam tui 

" meminifle." 

TRANSLATION : 

Ah! Maria/ 

moll elegant of unmarried 

young women. 

Ah! Maria/ 

{hatched from us when all thy 

charms were in full flower, 

farewell ! for ever ! 

Oh ! how inferior the moft familiar 

converfe with other women 

to the bare remembrance 

of thee ! 

This was Mifs Maria Dolman, the daughter 

of a clergyman in the neighbourhood, and cou- 

fin of Mr, Shenftone* 

After 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 305 

After afcending by a zig-zag path, we entered 
a long gloomy walk, in the centre of which is 
a hermitage, built by the late Major Halliday, 
the lad proprietor of the Lea/owes, of bones 9 
calces, glafs, and cinders. ' The infide is divided 
into compartments, by rows of pebbles, the 
walls panneled with bark, and the roof very 
prettily ftuccoed with fir apples, fet in mofs* 

A fmall cupola rifes from the roof, but the 
gentleman who compared this building to a 
Highlander's hut, mufl have overlooked the chim* 
ney. The floor is laid with fmail pebbles and 
horfes' teeth. The door is of bark, and a gothic 
window overlooks the town of Hales Oice?i 9 to 
the meadows which cover the fide of Clent hill ; 
which has been rendered famous by the chapel, 
built on the fpot where the murdered body of 
the young Kenelm, King of Mercia, was interred. 

The profpect is much hurt by the direct line 
of canal, which, even at this diftance, creates 
difguft, by the ftiffnsfs of its formal embank- 
ments ; but the intervening meadow is charm- 
ingly fludded with trees. 

This walk is terminated by the temple of 
Pan y a dufky alcove, now deprived of all its 
beauty. 

X Turned 



3.o6 A JoMft'E^ 

Turned to the right, and arrived at a wicket 
at the corner of the wood, which opens to a 
kind of natural terrace, commanding a very rich 
and extenfive view, including the monument at 
Hag ley, and, it is faid, (though I believe it to 
be a miftake) the feats of the Earl of Plymouth, 
and Vifcount Dudley and Ward. 

Defcended through the meadows, and pafled 
a fcreen of fir trees, near which is a feat, infcribed 

cc Deus nobis hasc otia fecit." 

The Hoping ground in front is fprinkled with 
fine trees, whofe exuberant foliage feems to 
fmile on the enamelled turf out of which they 
fpring. The view is rich, fylvan, and harmo- 
nious. 

PafTed a feat dedicated to Lord Lyttleton, and 
ihzn entered Virgil's grove, a thick wood, whofe 
entangled boughs admit juft light enough to fill 
the mind with penfive mufing. 

Here, on an elevated fpot, fhaded with yews 
and cyprefs, is an obelifk, thus dedicated to the 
great father of Georgic poetry. 

cc Genio. P. Virgilii Maronis 

" Lapis, ifte. cum. iuco. 

" Sacer, efto." 

Near 



INTO SOUTH WALES. $6f, 

Near Virgil's monument is an old feat, with 
the following lines, now fcarcely legible : 

iC Celeberimo Poetss 

cc Jaccbo Them/on, 

" pro'pe Fontes illi non faftiditos 

« G. S. 

" Sedem hanc ornavit. 

*' Quas tibi, quo: tall reddam pio carmina dona, 
** Nam neque me tantum, venientis fibilus aufhr, 
" Nee percufla juvant flu&u tarn iitora nee quse, 
" Saxofas inter decurrunt flumina valles." 

Thomforfs feat is indifputably the moll delight- 
ful fpot in this Ehjfmnu On one fide is Virgil's 
monument ; a tinkling rill creeps below ; and, 
on the left, is a cafcade ; all completely flickered 
by a " brown o'er-arching grove/' 

A narrow walk next conducted us over a fmall 
bridge, thrown acrofs a rill, which murmurs 
along the bottom of this fequellered gloom, and 
within fight of a mod beautiful cafcade, conge- 
nial with the placid fcenery around us j not 
dafhing furioufly from a rocky eminence, nor 
conducted artfully over a flight of Heps, but dif- 
tilling its liquid pearls from a moffy fountain, 
down a rock of darken: green, and gliding in a 
foft and purling ftream among the trees below. 
X 2 . There 



JOS A JOURNET 

There are two other rills creeping along at 
your feet, in the fame Mile of elegant fimplicity ? 
whofe fomniferous tinkiings produce the moft 
foothing ealmnefs : and he mud be indeed a floic 
who can frequent thefe groves without being in 
love. 

The famous chalybeate fpring, which has been- 
fo much admired and celebrated, is now almofl 
overgrown with weeds ; and the ftone which 
bears the inscription was lying with its face down- 
ward, at fome diftance from the little bafon whicfe 
receives the water. 

" Fons ferrugineus Divas 
" quae feceflu ifto frui 
" concedit faluti S/ y 

Leaving the cafcade on our left, we aceompa* 
xiied the ftream which defcends from it, an# 
came to a tree with the following lines. 

" O let me haunt this peaceful made, 

" Nor let ambition e'er invade 

** The tenant of this leafy bower, 

6i That fhuns her paths and (lights her power. 

" Hither the peaceful Halcyon flies, 
u From focial meads and open fides, 
ic Pleas'd by this rill her courfe to fleer, 
*« And hide her fapphire plumage here. • 

« The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2 Q 9 

£c The trout, bedeck'd with crimfon (tains* 
f* Forfakes the rivers proud domains 
Cl Forfakes the fun's unwelcome gleam, 
" To lurk within this humble flream. 

f * And fare I hear the Naiad fay, 
* : Flow, flow my ftream 7 this devious way, 
" Tho' lovely foft thy murmurs are, 
" Thy waters lovely, rnoiftj and fair." 

" Flow, gentle flream, nor let the vain? 

*< Thy fmall irafallied flones difdaiii, 

" Nor let the pen five fage repine, 

" Whofe latent courfe refembles thine, 55 



Another ruftic arch brought us to the entrance? 
gate, and thus finifhed our agreeable walk. 

Every where, however, around thefe prernifes 3 
the encroachments of neglect are vifibly intru- 
ding, and in a few years little of the delightful 
fcenes which once characterized the retreat cf 
the plaintive Shenjhone ; will remain to be traced. 
An elegant writer has well obferved, " the neg- 
" le&ed (hrubs and flowers feem to droop and 
" languifh, and the trees envioufly thrufl for- 
" ward their branches, and fpread them before 
" the views which Shenfione opened, as if afraid 
" left their beauties fhould alleviate the forrow 
X 3 " which 



3*0 A JOURNEY 

'« which all ought to feel for his abfence, The 
€c cafcade has forgotton to flow, and the weeping 
<c fountain has ceafed to weep, as if the great- 
u nefs of its grief had drained the fluices of \t% 
&c tears*" 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 3II 



CHAP. XXX. 

Road from Birmingham to Warwick. — Solihull. — Knoiule.-— 
Wroxall 

Left Birmingham by the London road, and after 
palling the houfe formerly occupied by the ce- 
lebrated Doctor Frkftly, turned to the left for 
Knowle. 

The county of Worce/ter interpofes a fmall flip 
between Birmingham and Warwick, and having 
crofTed it we came into the heart, or centre, of 
TVarwickJhire. 

R.ode through the village of Solihull, whofe 
fpire and church tower had been for fome time 
in view. 

Near Solihull is a very handfome feat of Henry 
Grcfwold Lewis Efquire, called Malvern Hall, 
adorned with pleafure grounds and a fine piece 
of water. 

Knowle is a fmall town fituated among fertile 
fields, and contains nothing remarkable; but three 
miles beyond it, are the remains of YVrcM 7/ Ab- 
bey, part of which is converted into farm- 
X 4 houfe 



312 A JOURNEY, 

houfe, and another portion into the parifh church, 
in which a monument of one of the Abbeffes is 
itill /hewn. 

" In the midft, 



u Appears a mould'ring wall, with ivy crownM, 
° Or gothic turret, pride of ancient days s 
** Now but of ufe to grace a rural fcene, 
" To l>ound our vfftas." 

In Dugdale's " Antiquities of Warwick/hire" 
the legend is preferyed of the firft eftablifhment 
of a religious houfe at Wroxall, in the days of 
Xing Stephen* 

This hiftory was extracted from a manufcript 
of one of the monks of Wroxall ; and the lift of 
abbefTes is preferved. 

It is faid to have been founded by a pious per- 
fon, who being in exile, and frequently calling 
to mind the tutelary patronage and miracles of 
St. Leonard, was fuddenly infplred with a refolu- 
tion to found an abbey for Nuns of St. Benet's 
order. To ftrengthen and encourage him in 
this religious determination, St. Leonard himfelf 
appeared in the habit of a monk, and the captivfc 
was inftantly tranflated from his confinement to 
the fpot on which this religious edifice was after- 
wards built. Wandering among the woods, 

which 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 3*3 

which formed part of the domain that he had 
held of Guy, Earl of Waricick, he could fcarcely 
believe where he was, nor imagine how he came 
thither. The faint, however, vouchfafed to ap- 
pear a fee on d time, and to point out to him four 
flones, which marked the fpot where the high 
altar of Wroxajl afterwards arofe. His lady 'being 
informed of the unexpected arrival of her huL 
band, was fo incredulous that me would not be 
perfuaded it was her real hufband, until he pro- 
duced part of a ring which had been broken be- 
tween them, and applying the feparate fragments 
together, they were miraculoufly re-united, — 
a proof fufficient to have convinced a fceptic. 

This religious houfe was one of a very fmall 
number, devoted to the reception of the Englijh 
ladies ; and we may greatly rejoice that the fame 
power which deprived the cloiftered monk of hi? 
luxury and wealth, liberated our fair country- 
women from this unnatural confinement. The 
cc foft heart of fenfibiiity no longer beats within, 
cc the grate of a convent, but the bed affection* 
" of the human mind permitted to flow in their 
<c natural channel, diffufe their friendly influence 
" over the brightening profpecls of domeftic 
" happinefs." 

WromU 



314 A JOURNEY 

Wroxall is the property of the Wrens, defcended 
from the great architect of that name, whofe 
panegyric has been fo elegantly and concifely 
written by Horace Walpole. " A variety of know- 
" ledge proclaims the univerfality, 2. multiplicity 
'* of works, the abundance, and St. Paul's, the 
" greatnefs of Sir Chriftopher Wren's genius. 5 ' 
. Before we arrived at the village of Hatton, a 
pleafing view of a well wooded country prefented 
itfelf on the left, decorated witJi the magnificent 
ruins of Kenelworth Cajile, about three miles 
diftant ; whofe " ivy mantled" towers reminded 
us of the proud pageantry of ancient days, and 
the hardy and ferocious manners of antiquity. 

We vifited the church of Hatton, in which 
are feveral monumental records, particularly one 
of a lady, who was a confiderable benefaclrefs 
to the church. 

The windows are ornamented with painted 
glafs. • That at the eaft end is a reprefentation of 
the crucifixion, in which the principal figure is 
t?ell executed, but fome fculls, abfuidly intro- 
duced at the foot of the crofs, fhew that the ar- 
till had not ftudied anatomy with the attention 
recjuifite to make a complete painter, 



Proceeding 



INTO SOUTH WALES 3IJ 

Proceeding towards Warwick, we were pre- 
ferred with a rich profpect of the valley, on the 
right, bounded by Edge-Hill, and the high hills 
of Shuckburgh. 

Half a mile from the town croffed a canal, 
which has been undertaken, to communicate 
with that called the Grand Junclion Canal, at 
Braunfton.* 



31 6 A JOURNEf 



CHAP. XXXI. 

ffiarwick.-'-Buildings, public and private.-— Monuments *•— -C\th 
jhation of the Vine. — Warwick Cajlle. — Paintings. — Jjfr 
rnour. — Pare and Pleafure Grounds.- — Antiquities. — Superb 
Vafe. 

At the entrance of Warwick, what is at pre- 
fent a cottage, plainly indicates its original ufe 
to have been that of a place of worfhip : it was a 
chapel dedicated to St. John. 

Warwick is a pretty large well-built town, and 
the principal flreet running in a direct line from 
eafi to weft, having been almofi entirely rebuilt, 
after a great fire, which happened in 1694, has 
a degree of neatnefs and regularity in its appear- 
ance, which is not often paralleled. 

This flreet is terminated at each end by a fmall 
chapel ; and that towards the weft, has a very 
lofty, but dark arched paffage under it. This 
chape! belongs to an hofpital, founded by Robert ! , 
earl of Leicejier, in the reign of Elizabeth, for the 
reception of twelve decayed tradefmen, or men 
of broken fortunes, who had ferved in the army. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 3x7 

The uncommon dulnefs of this town, which 
is almoft proverbial, an3 the air of melancholy 
which prevails in it, are noticed in the following 
lines, which indeed boaft more truth than poe- 
try : 

(( Where Avon flows, and gathers fame, 

" A town there ftands, and Warwick is its names 

*' For ufeful arts, entitled once to fhare 

u The Mercian dame Elfredtfs guardian care ; 

" Nor lefs for feats of chivalry renown'd, 

" When her own Guy was with her laurels crown'd* 

" Now indolence fubje&s the droiv%y place, 

€t And binds in filken bonds her feeble race : 

" No bufy artizans their fellows greet, 

" No loaded carriages obi^rud the fireet ; 

" Scarce here and there a faunt'ring band is feeri, 

" And pavements dread the turf's encroaching green. 59 

The antiquary may be pleafed -to hear, that 
a large plan, and perfpective view of the town, 
when ruined by the great fire before-mentioned, 
is (till preferred in Warwick Caftle. 

The difpofition of the (beets is regular : the 
high ftreet is croffed by another at right angles ; 
and on the highed ground in the town Hands 
the collegiate church of St. Mary, an edifice of 
confiderable fize and elegance, although irregu- 
larly finifhed. 

The 



3l8 A JOURNEY 

The windows at the eaft end.* and a beautiful 
chapel contiguous to the ibuth fide, are gothic ; 
but thofe of the reft of the building are incon* 
fiftent with any rule of architecture. 

The infide of the church is remarkably hand- 
fome. A large organ is placed over the weft 
door ; the chancel is feparated from the church 
by iron gates, with a ftove on each fide, dif- 
guifed in the fhape of urns, (landing on pedef- 
tals ; and there are regular galleries. 

Jn the middle of the chancel is a white mar- 
ble monument, with cumbent ftatues in memory 
of Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who 
built the body of the church, and died in 1401 ; 
and of the Lady Margaret, his wife, daughter 
of William, Lord Ferrars. 

The chapel of St. Mary is the maufoleum of 
the families of Neville, Dudley, and Beauchamp, 
earls of Warwick ; and contains feveral (lately 
monuments, particularly that of Richard Beau- 
champ, the founder, which has two ftatues of 
burnifhed brafs, as large as life, and an innu- 
merable hoft of angels, of the fame metal, (land- 
ing in niches round the tomb. 

This nobleman is filled " The moft noble 
" Richard de Bello Campo, Earl of Warwick, Lord 

^ Defpenfer 9 



IK TO SOUTH W.ALES. 3151 

* 5 Defpenfr, of Bergavenny, Lieutenant-general 
" of France and Normandy" 

There are alfo monuments of 'Robert Dudley, 
Earl of Leicefter ; Ambrofe Dudley, Earl of War- 
wick, matter of the ordnance, &c. and Lettice, 
Countefs of Leicefter ■$ with a long jingling ' ^ r crip- 
tion, by Gervas Clifton, full of pun and quibble : 
the concluding lines of which 

te She that did fupply the warrs 

c * With thunder, and the court with flars," Sec, 

tempted Mr. Ireland wittily to remark, that this 
lady's qualities were really wonderful ; for, fays 
he, " (lie not only cafi cannon, but multiplied 
" the heavenly heft that glitter around the throne, 
" and was at once a belle, an amazon, and a 
" faint." 

The decorations of this chapel have been 
fmimed at an enormous expence ; but many of 
the ornaments are vulgar and difgu fling. 

The ceiling confifls of a difplay of gingerbread 
work, and painted (liields ; and there is fuch a 
profufion of carving and gilding, that the eye is 
involuntarily attracted from the neat and chafte 
altar-piece, which is the only appropriate orna- 
ment of the place. 

It 



320 A JOURNEY 

It is faid, that the windows of this edifice were 
formerly enriched with coloured glafs, contain- 
ing hidorical reprefentations and portraits of the 
Beauchamp family, but they ate now gone. 

On the north fide of the chancel is a fmall 
dark chapel, with a monument of black and white 
marble, in remembrance of the firft Lord Brooke, 
with the following laconic, but impreflive in- 
fcription : 

" TROPHCEUM PECCATI. 

« FULKE GREVILLE, 

6C SERVANT TO QUEEN ELIZABETH, 

<c COUNSELLOR TO KING JAMES, 

w AND 
" FRIEND TO SIR PHILIP SIDNET." 

This chapel is adorned with feveral pennons, 
banners, helmets, and pieces of armour, agree- 
able to the fafhion of ancient times, in which 
the piety of our fathers fuggefted to them vows 
of this particular nature, viz. to depofit their 
arms in the churches and monafteries : a cuftoui 
derived from the remoteft antiquity, and noticed 
by all the old hiftorians and romance writers ; 
but firft by the prophet Ezekiel. The heroes of 
•thofe ages thus dedicating to God the weapons 
which his providence had rendered effectual in 
i * their 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 32 1 

their hands, for the defence of religion and their 
country. 

Contiguous to St. Marfs chapel are the re- 
mains of a confeffional ; and the fteps leading to 
it are almoft worn through. 

The tower of this church is very delicately 
proportioned, and is charged with infer iptions, 
mentioning the original foundation, by Roger de 
Novo Burgo (Newburgh), earl of Warwick , and 
the re-edification of it, by Thomas Beauchamp 
before-mentioned. 

Near the church-yard is a grammar fchool, en- 
dowed by King Henry the eighth, with an exhi- 
bition to Oxford ; under the direction of a matter, 
who has a liberal falary. 

On the north fide of the town ftands a hand- 
fome houfe, called the Priory, with fmall, but 
pleafant gardens about it. It appears, however, 
to have derived very little advantage from the 
hand of tafte, although it is capable of great 
improvements. 

The County Hall is a large and elegant build- 
ing, and contiguous to it is the Gaol, a work of 
great (irength, but perhaps objectionably placed 
near the middle of the town. 

Y There 



3^ 2 A JOtlRNE? 

There appears to be a blank left over the en- 
trance of the Hall, which makes it look unfiniuV 
ed. If the following motto were borrowed from 
the town houfe at Delft 9 it might be applicable : 

* € Hie locus odltf atnat, punit, confervat, honorat, 
*' Nequkiaaij pacem, crimme, jura, probos," 

Warwick? being a place of great antiquity, has 
been incorporated under feveral charters ; but 
eternal contentions between the interefis of dif- 
ferent parties, fome peculation, and a manifeft 
want of public fpirit, have fcarcely left any 
traces of a corporation ; befides a building, cal- 
led the Court Houfe, which was erecied out of 
monies belonging to different charities j now 
ufed principally as a dining-room, where 

< e W*de feizes his prey, e'er the cook can uncover, 
te And M*tth*ivs fays grace with his fork m a plover." 

The moll brilliant ornament of Warwick is its 
{lately caille, which, both for its antiquity and 
tituation, deferves the traveller's notice. 

Much has been faid and written about theim- 
nienfe funis of money which have been laid out 
in the improvements, and the degree of tafte 
difcernible in their arrangement : but they who 

refide 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 323 

f efide here can never regret the former, nor will 
it be contended by any who vifit it, that the latter 
was not truly deferved by the natural advantages 
of the place. In fhort, the fite of Warwick Caf- 
tle, on the bank of the charming Avon, whofe 
noble ftream winds gracefully through the park, 
within fight of the windows ; commanding a rich 
and pleafmg diverfity of objects, and enjoying 
the advantage of a fertile foil, would have been 
a delightful refidence, with very few adventitious 
aids ; and without the clumps and patches, and 
Hopes, and fwells of modern gardening. 

The entrance to the caftle was formerly by a 
cate-way (between two octagon towers) which 
now leads to the court-yard or area ; but an ad 
of parliament having been obtained for removing 
the road, from Banbury to Warwick, to a greater 
diftance from the caftle, a fpace in front of it 
called the vineyard, was afterwards enclofed, 
planted, and added to the parterre. 

Grapes are recorded to have been gathered 
here at a very early period. 

Suetonius fpeaks of vineyards as being very 

common in Britain. Venerable Bede, who lived 

in the eighth century, and Richard of Cirencejier, 

who died in the fourteenth, as well as many 

Y 2 other 



3^4 A JOURNEY 

other ancient writers, have alfo fpoken to the 
fame efFecl. 

The late learned and indefatigable Dr. Pegge 
has fuppofed, that the Britons began to plant 
vines foon after the year 280: that they were 
firft cultivated in the fouthern parts of the ifland, 
particularly in the neighbourhood of Winchefier, 
citing from Sumner a quotation, which that au- 
thor has introduced in his cc Antiquities of Can- 
" terbury :" 

" Teftis eft London ratibus,. Wintonia Baccho ,*" 

and alfo the authority of Twine, who thus ac- 
counts for the derivation of the name of that 
city. 

" Hsec vero iifdem temporibus Britannis Caer* 
a guent, eodem quoque fenfu a Romanis di&a 
" eft Vintonia ; et temporis tractu corrupte, 
" noftro more Wintonia, a Saxonibus poftea 
ic Winchefier, id eft, urbs vim vel vim/era, quali 
cc dicas, munitio vel fortificatio ubi crevit opti- 
« c mum vinum in Britannia appellata eft." 

It is true, that other authors difagree with 
Mr. Twine, and each other, refpe&ing this ety- 
mology ; but, without making a digreffion to 
enlarge on a difpute fo foreign to the fubjecl, I 
mail only remark, that a little fuburbs contigu- 
ous 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 325 

ous to the north fide of the Soke, XitzxWincbeJler, 
is ftill called Wine-hall ; but which, by the way, 
may have derived its appellation from Wina* 
the Saxon bilhop of this fee. 

It may, however, be worth while to enter a 
little into the confideration of the queftion in- 
tended to be decided, namely, whether the vine 
was cultivated fo extenfively as, from thefe au- 
thors has been inferred ; or whether grapes 
were only grown as a fruit for the defert. 

It has been aiferted, that the vernacular pro* 
duclion, called wine was in reality neither more 
nor lefs than cider : but it has certainly never yet 
been proved, that, by any means, the term vine- 
yard has been retained in thofe counties, where 
apples grow in the greatefl abundance. The 
derivation of the term orchard is evidently trace- 
able through the Saxon ortgearde, from the Go- 
thic aurtigard (a fence of a garden ), while the 
derivation of the other term may be looked for 
from weingard (an enclofure for vines) ; wein- 
triu, a vine ; weinaburge, grapes ; weinatains, 
a vine branch, &c. The term vinee alfo occurs 
in Domefday Book. 

It does not, indeed, neceffarily follow, becaufe 

the term vineyard may have been fometimes ap- 

Y 3 plied 



$%6 A JOURNEY 

plied to fmall enclofures, for the cultivation of 
thofe fruits which were earlieft known among 
us, that therefore the vineyards of Britain were 
only gardens of that clafs, and that no wine was 
made here 5 for a public permiflion from the 
Roman emperors would furely never have been 
thought of, if the culture of the grape had been 
under flood in fo limited a fenfe ; and although 
the climate of this iiland has been urged as an 
objection to Dr. Pegge's account, yet it fhould 
be remembered, that to prove that wine was 
made, is one thing ; but to prove, that that 
wine was fweet, is another, and very difFerent 
undertaking ; in which Dr. Pegge does not feem 
to have been at all difpofed to engage. 

In the great literary conteft on this fubjecT:, I 
wonder that the very learned difputants mould 
all happen to have overlooked Warwick, where 
the piece of ground (till called the Vineyard, 
which I have mentioned, is recorded to have 
yielded abundance of fruit, at a very remote pe- 
riod, and where vines are ftill feen growing 
againft the fronts of the houfes in fpme of the 
public ffreets. 

After the alteration of the road to Warwick, as 
above-mentioned, a lodge was built on the fouth 

eaft 



INTO SOUTH VCAJLES. 327 

eaft fide of the ground, .then recently enclofed ; 
and this was the principal approach for feverai 
years ; but the gate has been lately clofed, and 
a new embattled and caftellated entrance, which 
greatly offends the eye of tafte, and is a difgrace 
to the fituation which it occupies, has been 
erected at the fouth corner ; fo that the caftle 
has now completely turned its back to the 
town. 

It has been objected againft the gardens, that 
fir trees and fhrubs are unfit decorations for the 
place ; but we are almoft induced to forget the 
inconfiftency of iuch ornaments to an old caftle, 
by the beauty and luxuriance of their growth. 

We rung at the gate, and were let in hy a 
well-fed porter, whofe appearance reminded me 
of "Thorn/on* s lines. 

" flow from his bench arofe 



" A comely full fpread porter, fwoln with ileep ; 

" His calm broad thoughtlefs afpect breath'd repofe, 

" And in fweet torpor he was plunged deep ; 

u Nor could himfelf from carelefs yawning keep ; 

" While o'er his eyes the drowfy liquor ran, 

" Through which his half-wakM foul did faintly peep." 

Palling between two high banks, clothed with 

a fhrubbery, the firft view of the caftle fuddenly 

Y 4 burfts 



$2% A JOURNEY 

burfts on the fight, with great fublimity. Two 
very high towers, at the fouth and northern an^ 
gles of the building, each with prodigious gor- 
bels, and an open parapet, embattled, are con- 
nected by a ftrong wall, in the centre of which 
is the entrance under an arched gate-way. 

The furrounding parterre is thick fet with 
trees, from among which peep the (tables ; and 
behind them rs feen the high tower of St. Mary's 
church : but the town is completely hidden by 
the plantations. 

The tower at the fouth-eafl: angle rifes from a 
naked rock to a great height, and is fuppofed to 
be of more remote antiquity than any other part 
of the building. 

It is attributed to yuliiis Gafar ; but on what 
authority I can not pretend to fay ; however, 
it is certain, that Julius Cafar did not penetrate 
fo far as Warwick. 

That this town was that ftation of the Romans 
called Prajidium, there is no doubt ; and feveral 
Roman infcriptions have been difcovered here, at 
different times. 

With regard to the architecture of what is 
called Cafar's tower, I fufpedk the turret on the 
top of it to belong to the early Norman times ; 

the 



INTO SOUTH WAT.ES. 329 

the period at which Chepftow Cattle was built ; 
where there is a tower which much refembles 
this at Warwick. 

Under the tower is a deep and mod gloomy 
dungeon, into which a few rays of light are ad^ 
mitted, by a fingle loop hole. The flair-cafe 
which defcends to this horrifying abode, barely 
allows one perfon to enter at a time ; and few 
places of confinement are more exactly calcu- 
lated to imprefs a modern Englijhman with the 
favage barbarity of his anceftors. 

To fuch dire abodes, and to a folitude even 
worfe than death, not merely crimes againft fo- 
-ciety, but the exercife of liberal fentiment, or 
heroic patriotifm was often a fufficient pafTport* 
The genuine impulfe of the kindlieft affections 
which warm and ameliorate the foul ; the bright- 
eft, moft illuftrious examples of every focial and 
domeftic virtue, in thofe ferocious ages, could 
not protect, the weak from the fangs of the rapa- 
cious ; could not flielter the poor from the vio- 
lence of the opprefTor, nor defend the filent me- 
rit of the humble from the tremendous horrors 
of capricious defpotifm, 

The fcenes which here recur to the mind of 
the man of feeling (not like the infubftantial vi- 

fions 



330 A JOURNEY 

lions of poetic fancy) are painted in unfading co- 
lours, and their hiftory is recorded in characters 
of blood. 

Hark! methinks I hear the groans of the 
ftarving captive creep along the walls of his pri- 
fon I methinks I hear the clinking of his maflive 
fetters, and the heart-piercing fighs, which feern 
to tell me, " the iron enters into his foul ;** while 
imagination fupplies the half-articulated prayer, 
efcaping through a cloud of putrid exhalation, 
and afcending to the empyreal feat of the Father 
of Mercies, 

With flow and folemn lleps, the unfeeling 
centinels perform nocturnal rounds j while the 
imperious gaoler, (till more unfeeling and obdu- 
rate, watches, with Argus 9 eyes the very liars ; 
and feems to grudge their light ; Mens, with 
jealous ears to every wind that blows, and de-» 
precates its foothing influence. 

Yet, even to the captive on his rufhy pallet, 
befmeared with midnight dews, and with the hu* 
mid perfpiration of his cell, fhall confcions rec- 
titude within, fpeak peace and confolation. Of 
this nor lords nor warriours can deprive him : 
no ! nor the cruel torments of the rack 5 nor all 
the rage and fury of oppreflion. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 33I 

The howling of the tempeft round his dun- 
geon, brings no terrors ; the vivid lightning, 
which melts the maflive bars, and plays upon 
his fetters, affrights him not. It only breaks the 
difmal gloom, and beguiles the tedious hours. 
Even the trembling agitation of the earth itfelf, 
which feems the harbinger of univerlal annihila- 
tion, is, to him, the mefTenger of peace : the 
long, but patiently-expected fummons to immor- 
tality. While the lordly chieftain 

w Cruel as death, and hungry as the grave," 

who has triumphed over the poor emaciated re- 
mains of his expiring captive, now fmitten by 
the keen arrows of remorfe, in vain attempts to 
hide his guilty head, and fcarcely dares apply to 
Heaven for mercy. He hears the voice of death 
with ghaftly horror, and trembles with difmay. 
His martial enterprizes, and all the fanguinary 
fchemes of proud ambition avail him not ; for 
his courage was but ferocity, and his wifdom, 
the fuccefs of intrigue. The pride of anceflry, 
and the pomp of rank, in this keen hour of dif- 
trefsful anguifh, afford no fhelter to the guilty 
wretch ; for his glory, and his pomp, and the 
mightinefs of his dominion totter on the brink of 
ruin ; and before him yawn the opening portals 
to fufferings inexpreflible. " The fpirit of man 
Jl " may 



33 2 A JOURNEY 

" may bear his afflictions ; but, a wounded fpU 
" r/Y, who can bear ?■' 

Warwick Caftle has been almoft ever fince the 
conqueft, the principal feat of theEarls of Warwick. 

Succeflive poffeflbrs have added to the original 
buildings, agreeable to the tafte of the days in 
which they Jived ; but the principal alterations 
that have taken place were, in the reign of Ed- 
%uard the third, when Thomas Beauchamp, earl 
of Warwick, built the great octagon tower, ia 
honour of his anceftor, the renowned Guy, whofe 
name it ftill retains ; in the reign of Edward the 
fourth, when George Plantagenet, earl of War- 
"wick, began the range of buildings now in ufe^ 
and in the time of King James the firft, when 
Sir Fulke Greville, lord Brooke, laid out twenty 
thoufand pounds in repairing it. 

The caftle was defended in the civil war of 
Cromwell, when it was garrifoned for the parlia- 
ment, by a very lingular contrivance, namely, 
that of fufpending wool-packs from hooks, which 
are ftill to be feen in the towers, at the entrance. 

A man muft have loft every fenfation, who 
can enter the court of Warwick Caftle, without 
admiration and delight. 

On the left, a grand irregular baronial man- 
fion, terminated by Cafar's tower $ a vaft pile of 

ftrength> 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 333 

ftrength, whofe antiquity is (lamped on its bat* 
tlements. In front, a lofty mount, covered with 
(hrubs, and crowned with turrets, through one 
of which an iron gate admits a gleam of light to 
harmonize the picture. The wall continued 
from thence is covered with ivy, and runs to- 
wards the right-hand corner; where Guy's Tower, 
erected by Thomas Beaachamp, rifes to the height 
of an hundred and twenty feet, with the moft 
perfect: fymmetry and grace. 

A flight of fteps in a gothic porch, leads to 
the hall, which is a magnificent apartment of 
about fixty feet by thirty-eight, wainfcotted with 
oak, and ornamented with the antlers of moofe 
deer, and other animals, which have been dug 
out of bogs in Ireland, 

The fpecies of deer to which thefe antlers be- 
longed, mud have been undoubtedly of very 
great fize and ftrength 1 it has been conjectured 
the fame as the American moofe, and Scythian 
tarandus; but Giraldus Cambrenfis (in whofe 
time the race was not extinct) in his " Topo- 
" graphia Hybernia," in the paffage cited by 
Camden, feerns to countenance an idea that the 
magnitude of the horns was in reverfe proportion 
to the bulk of the animal. " Ceros praenimia pin- 
♦* guedine minus fugere praevalentes, quanto.que 

minores 



334 A JOURNEY 

* 6 minores funt corporis quantitate, tanto pf ascel- 
" lentius efFeruntur capitis et cornuum dignitate.'* 
The ftate apartments open to the weft, and 
thofe which are occupied by the family are at the 
eaft end of the hall ; but all the windows look 
towards the fouth, and the doors being throwit 
open, the whole range is taken in at a fingle 
glance. 

The window at the weft end looks out of the 
ftate clofct into the park ; that which terminates 
the range to the eaft, is of ftained glafs, with 
coats of arms, and below it ftands a coloflal 
buft of Hercules. 

From the hall we were conducted into an anti- 
chamber, furnifhed with chairs covered with cut 
velvet, and decorated with feveral capital paintings. 

In this room is a table of lapis lazuli, inlaid 
with precious ftones, which was formerly in the 
poffeflion of the King of Naples ; and a fine buft 
of Minerva, 

The next apartment is a large drawing room, 
wainfcotted with cedar. The chimney-piece has 
two large pillars of the moft beautiful variegated 
jafper, a very rare and valuable curiofity. 

Here are feveral Etrufcan vafes, and at each 

end of the room is a large table, inlaid with 

Italian marble from the capitol. 

Alas ! 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 335 

Alas ! what a change of fituation. Ye, whofe 
polifhed furfaces once, perhaps, reflected the 
images of the great matters of the world, or 
echoed to the found of Ckeronean eloquence, 
are now degenerated into fervile minifters of 
luxury and o dentation ! Indeed, without pre- 
tending to feel the raptures of an antiquary, I 
beheld thefe venerable fragments as if profaned 
by the figures which they have afTumed. 

There is alfo a table of lava, of very beauti- 
ful colours. 

Among other portraits, of which there is a 
great profulion, is one of King Charles the firft ; 
another of Martin Ruckher, the painter, admi- 
rably finifhed ; a whole length of Lucy, Countefs 
of CarliJIe ; and a head of the gallant "James 
Graham, Marquis of Montrofe, who, in the reign 
of King Charles the firft, performed fo wonder^ 
ful a feries of brilliant atchievements, who, "with- 
«' out any regular provifion of arms or ammuni- 
" tion, attacked and routed Lord Elcho, ztPertb 9 
" with a well difciplined army of fix thoufand 
" men ;-— who routed Lord Bur ley, at Aberdeen , 
" and five and twenty hundred infurgents ;— - 
" who eluded all the vigilance of the mod ex- 
" perienced generals, by whofe troops he was 

" repeat- 



33$ A JOURNEY - 

6C repeatedly furrounded ; — kept the field in the 
* c midft of winter, expofed to intenfe cold, fa- 
* c mine, and fatigue; ravaged the country of At- 
"gyle, and difperfed thoufands by the terror of 
" his name :" and at length clofed a life of great 
and painful activity, by a cheerful fubmiffion to a 
cruel fentence, which was executed with every 
circumftance of barbarous indignity, and favage* 
exultation. 

At the battle of Perth it is related of this cori- 
fummate officer, that he animated his men to the 
attack, by the following laconic fpeech : " Sol- 
diers 'tis true you have no arms, but your enemies 
have plenty ; my advice therefore is, that every 
man take a ilone in his hand, run up to the next 
foldier, beat out his brains , and then feize his 
arms." The brave Highlanders followed his ad- 
vice with punctuality : two thoufand of the ene- 
my were inftantly llain, and Montrofe, with his vic- 
torious forces, marched triumphantly into Perth. 

The ceiling of this room is elegantly carved 
and gilt, and the looking glafles are fplendid. 

The ftate drefling room is ornamented with 
feveral antiquities, and a (hell of the Nautilus 
curioufiy carved. 

Over the doors are three portraits of the fobs 
of Robert, Lord Brooke, who was killed at the 

fiege 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 337 

fiege of Litchfield. An incomparable painting of 
Ignatius Loyola, richly drefled in his mantle, with 
a book open before him, by Rubens. A portrait 
of Queen He?irietta Maria : and another of Ma- 
chiavel, to which may be applied the obfervation 
of Cicero, — " mentis imago vultus eft, indices 
" oculi." 

A whole length of Richard Beauchamp, Earl 
of Warwick. 

•The ftate bedchamber adjoins. It is hung 
with tapeftry ; and the bed, fofas, and chairs are 
richly covered with crimfon velvet, embroidered 
with green and yellow filk ; a prefent from 
Queen Anne. 

There is a large cabinet, inlaid with tortoife* 
/hell, and a fmaller, of wood of different fhades, 
reprefenting birds and flowers. 

In the window is a fine marble bull of Edwarc£ 
the Black Prince. 

Over the chimney, which is of verd antique 
and white marble, is a picture of Margaret, 
Dutchefs of Parma, by Paul Veronefe, and over 
the door a head of Robert, Earl of Efex, the fa- 
vorite of Queen Elizabeth. 

The ftate clofet is hung with pea green. fatin, 

and contains feveral paintings, particularly one 

Z of 



33^ A JOtTRNEV 

of Francis ', Earl of Bedford ; and the head of an 
old woman, perhaps Rembrandt's mother, from 
the Orleans collection. 

The beauty of the interior decorations is apt 
to be overlooked by thofe who vifit this charm- 
ing apartment, for there are few fcenes which 
can be imagined, more ftrikingly attractive than 
the profpecl which the windows afford. 

The " foft flowing Avon" defcending in two 
itreams below the rock on which the caftle (lands, 
and warning the plantations in the gardens, till 
It quits this fylvan fcene for the expanfive mea- 
dows at a diftance, and glides under a rialto at 
the extremity of the park ; and the variety of 
Hopes and undulations which fill up the land- 
fcape on the left, thick fprinkled with trees, or 
fhaded with groves, are fcarcely to be matched. 

Returning through the fame apartments we 
paffed out of the (late dreffing room by a door 
on the north fide, into a fmall armoury, or rather 
mufeum, which, among a variety of weapons 
collected from different countries, boafts feveral 
natural curiofities of great beauty, fome fine 
petrifactions, and fpecimens of fpar and foflils, 
and two birds of the owl fpecies, of uncom- 
mon fize» 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 339 

The buff jacket, which was worn by that fu- 
rious fanatic Lord Brooke, who commanded the 
rebel forces, in 1643, at the fiege of Litchfield, 
and in which he was fhot, ( by Mr. Dyott, a deaf 
and dumb man,) is preferred here 5 and a few 
drops of blood may dill be traced. 

An original picture of Sir Philip Sidney in a 
ftriped habit, is over one of the doors ; and in 
a recefs, a female figure, extremely well painted, 
but difadvantageoufly placed. There is alfo an 
Indifferent painting of Mary, Queen of Scots 9 
and King James the firft, when a child. 

In the billiard room, above flairs, are two re- 
markably fine pictures by Vandyke, which are in 
themfelves an ineftimable treafure, and exhibit, 
to its full extent, the impreffive force and effect 
of the pencil. 

The fubje&s being a contraft of all that is 
lovely, and all that is horrid, aid each other in 
the influence which they have on the pafiions, 
by that circumftance, although the intrinfic me- 
rit of each is fufficient to recommend it to 
general admiration. 

The firft is Danae, — a glow of colouring, and 

a diftribution of light and fhade beyond defcrip- 

tion admirable j All that " youthful poets fancy 

Z 2 e " whea 



340 A JOURNEY 

" when they love," is here not fimply delineated, 
but, I had almoft faid, realized. The features, 
the attitude, the drapery, are inimitable. The 
fmile of elegance, and the glance of love, adorn 
the moft animated countenance which ever graced 
a picture. The well turned arm, the fnowy 
bofom, and the auburn treffes, are fo incompara- 
bly beautiful, that were a churlifh mifer of four- 
fcore to view this divine affemblage, even he 
would be tempted to fuppofe the mower of gold 
which is feen defcending, a price far below the 
value of the piciure, much more of the poffetfion. 

The countenance of the old hag, who receives 
the beheft of Jove, is well defigrted to fet off 
the delicacy of the principal figure; but although, 
I am told, the old woman (who it mud be ac- 
knowledged is admirably painted) is the favourite 
of fome of the connohTeurs, I am perfuaded that 
it muft be thofe of her own age. 

The other picture is the death of St. Sebaftian* 
The horrors of expiration under agonizing tor- 
ture, but fuftained by the influence of a lively 
faith, and though transfixed with arrows, fup- 
portedby the blefTed hope of a happy immor- 
tality, are the ideas expreffed in every feature. 
The pallid lip, and the flaccid mufcles, gradually 

relaxing 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 341 

relaxing in the decay of nature,— the compofed 
ferenity of manly fuffering, the triumphant for- 
titude of the chriftian, 

" Strong and unconquerable even in death," 

make us forget the painter's art, to companionate 
the dying martyr, and admire the influence of 
that heavenly afliftance which is extended to the 
virtuous in his lad moments, and attracts his 
attention from corporeal pains, to a certain, and 
a glorious reward. 

The chimney-piece of a fmall bed chamber 
in one of the turrets, is compofed of marbles 
(infcribed with the names of Roman foldiery) 
which have been dug up at Warwick; whofe an- 
tiquity has entitled them to a place of fuch dif- 
tinction : but when I read the comments which 
are frequently made on old infcriptions, in fpite 
of ail my refpect for venerable antiquity, a fmile 
is with difficulty fupprefTed at the learned labours 
which have been fo often unfuccefsfully employed 
to fupply deficiencies, and correct errors ; — 
when, after all, many of the marbles handed 
down to us, were infcribed by the hands of the 
ignorant and unfkilful, in imperfect, and fome* 
times barbarous latinity. 

Z 3 Defcending 



34^ A JOURNEY 

Defcending into a long paffage contiguous to 
the armoury, we were fhewn a fine picture of 
King Charles the firil on horfeback, by Vandyke, 
of the natural fize. 

The windows contain feveral figures in co- 
loured glafs, and among other coats of arms, that 
of Henry , Duke of Warwick. 

The chapel is gloomy and damp, but fitted up 
in a very neat and fimple flyle, and there is an 
organ. 

The painted glafs window over the altar, was 
prefented by the Earl of Exeter. 

Returning through the hall we were conducted 
into the dining room, built by Francis , Earl 
Brooke ', of Warwick Caftle y and Earl of Warwick , 
in a tafte fo confident with the reft of the build- 
ing as to be fcarcely dillinguifhed from it. 

In this room are two very large pictures of 
Frederic^ Prince of Wales ^ and Augufta his Prin- 
cefs, holding in her arms his prefent Majefty, an 
infant. The frames are ornamented with tro- 
phies and other coilly decorations \ and the pic- 
tures were a prefent from the lady of Lord Jrcbi* 
bald Hamilton. 

Over 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 343 

Over the chimney is a half length of Sir Fulke 
Gre-ville, firft Lord Brooke, who was murdered 
by one of his fervants at a very advanced age. 
This eminent perfon was one of the earlieft Fel- 
lows of the Society of Antiquaries. 

The other apartments at the eaft end of the 
caflle, and the library, which is one of them, 
has a ufeful, rather than a valuable collection of 
books. 

There are alfo feveral good portraits, particu- 
larly of a Dutch Burgo-mafter and Lady Van* 
dyke, a picture of Achilles in armour, and a three- 
quarter length of old Parr: the lad not very re- 
markable for its execution. King Charles the 
firft and his children ; and over the chimney in 
the library, the half length of a fchool-boy, by 
Sir Jojhua Reynolds, 

From thefe windows a new bridge which has 
been built over the Avon> is feen to great advan- 
tage, The arch is a fine piece of mafonry, and 
meafures 120 feet in diameter. 

Among the improvements which have been 
made by the prefent Earl, is that of having en- 
tirely covered the few remaining houfes which 
belong to the town of Warwick, on the fouth 
fide of the river, by a large g plantation, which 
Z 4 effectually 



344 A JOURNEY 

effe&ually prevents their difgracing the rich and 
luxuriant profpect from the caftle. 

The inhabitants of the neighbourhood, how- 
ever, feem to view thefe alterations with fome 
degree of regret, as well as jealoufy ; and the 
demolition of fo many comfortable habitations 
is fcarcely compenfated for, in their opinion, by 
the increafed elegance of his lordfhip's refidence. 
It mull be confefTed, indeed, that the circum- 
fiance is apt to remind us of the affe&ing pidure 
drawn by Goldfmith : 



*' One only mailer grafps the whole domain, 
** And half a tillage {lints the fmiling plain. 

* # *4 # * , t # * * * 

" Along the lawn, where fcatter'd hamlets rofe, 
" Unweildy wealth and cumbrous pomp rcpofe, 
* c And every want to luxury allied, 
" And ev'ry pang that folly pays to pride. 

" Low lies that houfe where nut-brown draughts infpir'd, 

« Where grey-beard mirth, and fmiling toil retiVd, 

« Where village ftatefmen talk'd, with looks profound, 

« And news, much older than their ale> went round. 

" Imagination fondly Hoops to trace 

" The parlour fplendors of that feftive place ; 

" The white-wauYd wall, the nicely fanded floor, 

" The varnifhed clock, that click'd behind the door ; 

«< The hearth, except when winter chill'd the day, 

" With afpen boughs, and flowers, and fennel gay. 

a Vaia 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 345 

tl Vain tranfitory fplendor ! could not all 
*' Reprieve the tott'ring maniion from its fall] 
4f Obfcure it finks, nor fliall it more impart, 
c< An hour's importance to the poor man's heart; 
44 Thither no more the peafant fhall repair, 
st To fvveet oblivion of his daily care. 

*' Ye friends to truth ; ye flatefmen, who furvey, 
*' The rich man's joys increafe, the poor's decay ; 
€i 'Tis your's to judge, how wide the limits Hand, 
" Between a fplendid, and a happy land. 
***** 

" *■ The man of wealth and pride, 
" Takes up a fpace, that many poor fupply'd ; 
tc Space for his lake, his park's extended bounds ; 
u Space for his horfes, equipage, and hounds : 
" His feat, where folitary fports are feen, 
ft Indignant fpurns the cottage from the green." 

Before we left Warwick Caftle, it would have 
been unpardonable not to have infpecled the ar- 
mour, which, tradition fays, belonged to Guy, 
the gigantic earl of Warwick^ who encountered 
a wild bear, a dun cow, and a Daniflo giant ; and 
after thefe mighty and perilous exploits lived # to 
a good old age, in a hermit's cell, and died 
peaceably at lad (as fome fay) in a religious 
habit. 

This armour is preferved with great care, in 
the porter's lodge, and confifls of a two-handed 

fword 



24& 4 JOURNEY 

fword (very fimilar to- that of King Edward, MR 
kept m Weftminfter Abbey); a breafl -plate, which 
weighs thirty pounds ; part of an old helmet* a 
fence, and two or three iron maces j with a fort 
ei battle-axe,, fueh as, I believe, was formerly 
termed " the gifarme,** which, however, being 
sn inferior weapon, did probably not belong to- 
®m- hero.. 

An ancient poem thus mentions the faft-named 
article : 

** Some made a mell of mafley lead, 
** Which iron all about did bind ; 
** Some made flrong helmets for the head, 
** And fome their grifty gi/'armes grind. 5 * 

There is likewife a very large bell-metal pot, 
and a tlumfy flefh-fork, part of the earPs kitchen 
furniture \ a pair of iron coverings for the top 
©f the feet, called flippers, and reputed to have 
belonged to the lady of the faid earl^ together 
with a fhafiroone (or chanfrons) and other horfe 
armour ; a walking-flick, nine feet high (not 
quite fo tall as the giant) ; a rib of the dun cow^ 
and one of the vertebras of the wild boar 3 which 
fell by his ruthlefs arm. 

" That mighty Guy / 
«* So fam'd in antique fong, Warwick's great carl> 

« Wh# 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 247 

f Who flew the giant Colbrandm fierce fight; 
° MaintaiVd a fuminer's day, and freed this realm 
" From Danl/h vaffalage ; his ponderous fword, 
*' And mafly fpear, atteft the glorious deed." 

The ftature of this great man is faid to have 
been nine feet and two inches, which fome think 
incredible; but it fhould be remembered, that 
Leland, in his " Colle&anea," quotes the re- 
fpectable authority of his friend, Sir Thomas 
Elyot, as recording, that himfelf had feen, at 
fome place, near Salifbury, a fkeleton which 
meafured fourteen feet ten inches in length. 

There can be no doubr that the horfe armour 
is much more modern than the days of Guy ; 
for, befides other proofs, it has on it, a French 
motto, in roman capitals, which is only de- 
faced, and not totally obliterated, by repeated 
fcourings : but there is fome ground for belief, 
that the fword is of very high antiquity (arid 
I myfelf do not know why it mould not have 
really belonged to Gary), for it was committed to 
the cuftody of a perfon of fome note, as the 
identical fword of Guy, by Henry the eighth, in 
the firft year of his reign, with a falary of ele* 
ven pence per diem. 

In 



34$ A JOURNEY 

In the time of Richard the fecond, there was 
a fuit of arras hangings in the cadle, reprefent- 
ing the flory of the famous Guy, which at the 
attainder of Thomas de Beauchamp, earl of War- 
wick * was beftowed by the king, on Thomas 
Holland, duke of Surrey, earl of Kent, marfhai 
of England, and knight of the mod noble order 
of the garter. 

There is alfo preferved a (lone coffin, which 
was dug up within the area of the caftle. It is 
formed of one entire (lone, with a round exca- 
vation in the folid upper part, for the head *, 
and from the ilze of it, appears either to have 
contained the body of a female, or of fome very 
young and flender perfon : but whether this be 
of as high antiquity as the Roman empire, even 
in its decline, as fome have fuppofed, I am not 
certain. 

In the year 1659 there was a military or gar- 
rifon eftablifhment at Warwick Caftle, for a go- 
vernor, a lieutenant, and fixty foldiers, at an 
expence of 71/. 8s. per month. 

The Park is extenfive, and there is a charm- 
ing ride through it, carried among the planta- 
tions which decorate the banks of the Avm ; and 

a beau* 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 349 

a beautiful lake, of an hundred and fifty acres, 
occupies the fouth-eaflern part. 

At the extremity of a fine Hoping lawn, waflied 
on the fouth by the Avon, and commanding a 
very rich and interefling profpe£t, is a large 
green-houfe, in which is placed a magnificent 
vafe, dug up near the banks of the Tiber ; and 
as the infcription fets forth, tranfmitted to Eng- 
land, under the care and dire£Uon of Sir William 
Hamilton, K» B. envoy extraordinary, and mini- 
fler plenipotentiary to the King of Naples. It is 
of white marble, and the embellifhments are 
admirably executed, affording the mod beautiful 
fpecimen of what were anciently termed cc vafa 
" pampinata ;" its ornaments being borrowed 
from the vine, and exquifitely finifhed. Of its 
fize, I can not trull myfelf to fpeak with accu- 
racy ; but it is fo capacious, that the fir ft idea 
which ftrikes an obferver is, the almoft in- 
furmountable difficulty, the Herculean labour of 
bringing fuch an immenfe body hither, from the 
port where it was landed. 



35<* A JOtTRNEY 



GHAP. XXXII. 

Charleesft. — Compton Verney . — Klneton . — Edge H'dL — Ban- 
bury. — Road to Buckingham. 

Two miles from Warwick, croifed the Avon, at 
Barford Bridge ; and by an excellent road, which 
paries not far from Charlecott, the refidence of 
Sir Thomas Lucy, in the days of Shake/pear ; and 
flill pofifefled by a defendant of that family, foon 
arrived at Compton Verney, the feat of Lord WiU 
loughby de Broke. 

The exterior of the houfe is rather neat than 
fplendid, and the rooms mould rather be called 
commodious than magnificent; but the pleafurc 
grounds are varied with great elegance, and the 
water and plantations are delightful. 

In the green- houfe we were fhewn a choice 
collection of exotics, and a moft interefting dif- 
play of, I think, every fpecies of the heath, with 
which hotanifts are acquainted. 

From the highefl part of the grounds, look, 
ing to the north-eaft^ we had a diftinct view of 

a con« 

12 



INTO SOUTH WALES, JjS 

a confiderable portion of the Roman fofs way, 
running in a direct line towards High Crofs? <m 
the borders of Leicefterfnir-e, where it meets widi 
the Wailing Street Way. 

The turnpike road , where it paflTes Compton^ h 
compofed of a whitiih clay, which, on a nearer 
infpection, proved to be intermixed with Fuller** 
earth 5 and from the intelligence of certain work- 
men employed in the neighbourhood, I am lei 
to fufpect, that it is produced in large quanti- 
ties, at no great diftance. 

Having mentioned this production, I arm 
tempted to particularize a natural curiofity, 
which was obtained in this part of Warwick/hire* 
and prefented to me by my worthy and refpected 
friend, Thomas Ward, of More ton Morrell, Efq. 
It is one of thofe balls of hair, which have been 
frequently found in the ftomachs of quadrupeds : 
but mod fingular, on account of its finenefs of 
polifh, and firmnefs of texture. The ball is per- 
fectly fpherical, meafures three inches and one- 
eighth in diameter, and weighs nearly four 
ounces. It has been fawn through, and the in- 
terior is compofed of red and brown hair, fo 
clofely compacted, as to be fcarcely penetrable, 
# except^ 



35 2 A JOURNEY 

excepting towards the centre. The outfide is of 
a dark chocolate colour, fmooth, polifhed, and 
as hard as (tone. It was taken out of the firft, 
or ruminating flomach of a fat cow , and the 
polifh had fo well guarded the hair, that although 
the ball was divided immediately, its inner part 
was found entirely free from moifture. 

Having parted through Kineton, which the mo- 
dern inhabitants are fond of denominating King- 
ton, for no better reafon that I can learn, than 
becaufe King Charles the firft engaged with the 
parliamentary forces under the Earl of EJfex, in 
the neighbourhood ; we entered on the plain at 
the foot of Edge Hill, and faw the fpot on which 
that memorable conteft took place. 

The fite of a cottage in which the young 
princes (afterwards Charles the fecond, and James 
the fecond) remained during the battle, is marked 
by a plantation of fir-trees, reared by Mr. Mil- 
lar, a neighbouring gentleman* whofe feat is 
about a mile diflant* 

In this engagement fell the Earl of Lindfay, 
and his fon, Lord Willoughby, with many other 
diftinguifhed perfons. 

«« Then Verncy too, with many a harnefs'd knight, 
•' And faithful courtier, anxious for thy weal, 

" Unhappy 



INTO SOUT& WALES. 353 

Unhappy prince ! but mindlefs of their own, 
€c Pour'd out his life upon th' enfanguin'd plain, 
" And greatly pcrifh'd by his fov'reign's iide." 

Pieces of armour, buckles, fpear-heads, and 
bones, are frequently turned up by the plough ; 
and many a mouldering relic, fnatch'd from its 
bed of earth, is preferved by the ruftic virtuofo, 
as a memento of this fcene of blood, horror, and 
carnage. 

" Scilicet et tempus veniet, cum finibus illis 
u AgricbLi, incurvo terram molitus aratro, 
" Exefa in veniet fcabra rubigine pila : 
" Aut gvavibus raftris galeas pulfabit inanes, 
•* Grandiaque efFoflis mirabitur ofTa fepulchris." 

Afcended the hill ; and as we rode along the 
beautiful terrace, which ikirts the edge of it, 
enjoyed a very extenfive profpect over this and 
the adjacent counties, reaching as far as Binning- 
ham. 

The objects, however, are not fufficiently in- 
terefting, when taken feparately, to arrefl: the 
attention of a ftranger for longer than a momen- 
tary glance ; and the want of water is a defici- 
ency in perfpective, which fcarcely any fcenery 
can recompence. 

A a s About 



354 A JOURNEY 

About the middle of the brow of the hill, is 
an artificial ruin, cancellated, which was erected 
by the Jate Mr. Millar, of Radway, the fame 
gentleman to whom we are indebted for the plan- 
tation, which afcer tains one of the mod re- 
markable fpots near the field of battle. Mr. Mil- 
lar was a fkilful architect, and an ingenious .an- 
tiquary. 

We proceeded over a level country (for there 
is no defcent on the foiith fide of Edge Hill) 
through the village of Drayton, to Banbury, leav- 
ing Wroxton Abbey, the feat of the Earl of Guild- 
ford, on the right. 

Banbury is a populous town, and employs a 
confiderable number of hands in the mag manu- 
factory. It is irregularly built, and the roads 
are dirty. 

On the north-eaft fide is an ancient (lone bridge 
over the river Cher-well ; and part of the walls of 
the town areftill remaining, as islikewife a narrow 
gate-way, by which we entered it. 

The Only remarkable events which I recollect 
in the hiflory of Banbury, are, a fkirmifh in the 
reign of King Edward the fourth, between the . 
adherents of the great Earl of Warwick, and 

forne 



Into south wales. 355 

fome of the king's forces ; and that the town 
was garrifoned for the parliament, after the bat- 
tle of Edge-Hill, but furrendered to the king him- 
felf, in a few days. 

The old church, which was built of reddifh 
(tone (dug in the neighbouring county of North- 
a?7ipto?i) y and profufely ornamented with carving 
and fculpture, being in a decayed condition, was 
to have been taken down in the year 1791 ; but 
before the workmen could prepare the fcarTold- 
ing, this venerable fabric funk under the weight 
of years, and fell of its own accord. 

The modern edifice, which has been erected 
on the fame fpot, is rather a heavy than an ele- 
gant pile, but feems to polTefs great ftrength and 
folidity. 

The noble family of North contributed, we 
were told, very liberally towards its erection ; 
and between the period of the fall of the old 
church, and the completion of the new one, 
the dilTenters accommodated the inhabitants be- 
longing to the eftabiifhment, with the ufe of 
their meeting-houfe. 

We rode through the little town of Brackley, 

at the border of North wnptonJhire 9 and leaving 

A a 2 the 



356 A JOURNEY 

the Marquis of Buckingham's fuperb fioufe and 
gardens, at Stowe, on the left, arrived at Buck- 
ingham, which is a very indifferently built town % 
and though it has the honour of giving name to 
the county, and has conferred the titles of mar- 
quis and duke on feveral noble families, enjoys 
only a fhare of the public bufmefs ; the Lent af- 
fizes and the quarter feflions being held at Aylef* 
bury. 

A new church has been built on an eminence, 
called the " Cattle Hill," which, though a plain 
and very neat ftructure, has no great degree of 
beauty or elegance, and appears by much too 
fmall for the town. Over the altar is a good 
painting of the Transfiguration. 

The County-Hall is a brick building, opening 
into a large fquare, or market-place ; but the 
cumbrous figure of a fwan (the arms of Bucking- 
hamjhire), elevated on the roof, is a very difgufl- 
ing and prepoflerous ornament. 

Throughout the whole county of Buckingham, 
the manufacture of thread lace is the principal 
employment of the female inhabitants ; and the 
perfection which it has attained, is really won- 
derful. Black lace is alfo made, but in fmaller 
quantities. 

There 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2Si 

There is an old bridge over the river Oufe, 
which was formerly commanded by the caftle ; 
fo that the approach of an enemy on the fouth 
fide, muft have been extremely difficult, if at 
all practicable. 



Aa 



5 8 A JOURKEY 



CHAP. XXXIII. 

An Excurfwn to the Villages of Clay don, Hillefden, and Gren* 
don Underwood, with a particular Account of their Parjjfa 

Churches* 

From Buckingham we turned off to the right 
in order to examine fome of the village churches 
in the neighbourhood, not with an intention of 
making an obituary, or of merely collecting 
their monumental infcriptions ; but becaufe every 
Hone " is both an entertainment and a monitor " 
and, as Horace obferves, 

ft Omne tulit pun&um, qui mifcuit utile dulci, 
6i LedPcorem dele£tandse, pariterque monendo." 

Having croffed the Oufe, we rode through the 
village of Padbury, leaving Addington, a feat of 
the late Lady Tynte, on the left hand, and ap* 
proached Middle Claydon, the magnificent refrV 
dence of the late Ralph, Eail Verney, of the king- 
dom of Ireland, and reprefentative in feveral par«^ 
liaments for Buckingham/hire, 

Claydon-Houfe is frtuated in a rich and fertile 
country, furrounded by venerable woods, and 
pafturage of the gayefl verdure. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 359 

The grounds are in a (late of wild neglect, and 
much of the fade, as well as fplendour of the 
maiifion, has been deftroyed and annihilated. 

Had the original plan been completed, Clay- 
don would have far exceeded mod modern houfes 
in the kingdom, in grandeur of defign, and flate- 
linefs of arrangement. 

Every thing here was gigantic ; the parj^, re- 
markably fpacious, is furrounded with a high and 
clofe fence, which effectually preferves it from en- 
croachment : the water fpreads itfelf into a lake of 
vail extent ; and is decorated with feveral iflands : 
the offices are fo numerous, that they refemble a 
little town ; and the houfe fo large, that the geo- 
graphy of it is not readily to be under Mood. 

Fronting the fouth-wefl was a grand fuite of 
apartments, furmounted with a dome, on a no- 
ble elevation, having in view a beautiful extent 
of varying ground ; a river, two or three miles 
long ; and an equeftrian ftatue on the oppofite 
hill. The dome is now demoliihed, and alfo a 
magnificent faloon and ball-room ; which, if 
completed, would have been one of the mod 
fpacious and codly apartments in Europe. 

Over the faloon was a Befoidere, furrounded 
by a gallery, which afforded a moil extenfive 2nd 
delightful profpecl:. 

A a 4 The 



%6o A JOURNEY 

The library which, I believe, never yet con- 
tained a Tingle book, is capable of holding about 
eighty thoufand volumes. 

Contiguous to the houfe, on the eaft, is a large 
fquare, compofed of offices and fhops of every 
defcription : for the eftablifhment of the late Earl 
Verney was fo numerous, that it was thought ad- 
vifeable, even to erecl: a mill, for the purpofe of 
grinding corn for the confumption of the houfe* 
hold. 

This little town is, however, now deferted, but 
while we regret the lofs of thofe halcyon days in 
which Claydon flourifhed with luxurious abunaV 
ance, we derive a! pleafmg confolation from the 
amiable character of Lady Fermanagh the prefent 
poiTeflbr, who is liberal, with prudence ; and 
juft, as well as generous : for me has, as 
Congreve fays, 

*' The fenfe to value riches, with th* art 
" T' enjoy them, and the virtue to impart j 
11 To balance fortune by a juft expence, 
« Join with ceconomy magnificence, 
" With fplendour, chanty!" 

The parifh church, which is only a few paces 
diftant from the houfe, contains a monument, 
erecled in memory of Sir Edmund Verney, knight, 
ftandard-bearer to King Charles the firft, who 

perilhed 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 36 1 

perilhed at Edge-Hill, in the firft battle between 
that monarch and his parliament. 

Rode through Steeple Claydon, a large {bar- 
tered village, to Hillefden, where was formerly 
an old feat of the Dentom* 

The church is a fmall gothic building, with a 
round tower near the eaft end, and an octagon 
one, at the weft. 

The chancel is full of monumental infcrip- 
tions of the Denions and I/loams, two families of 
confiderable note. 

On a black marble, in the north aifle of the 
chancel, 

f HERE LYES 

" ALEXANDER DENTON, ESQ^ . 

" WHO DIED 



a 



THE XVII OF OCTOBER MDCXCVIU 



" IN THE XLIV YEAR OF 
" HIS AGE." 

On a white marble monument, on the fouth 
fide of the altar, 

NEAR THIS PLACE LIES INTERRED 



a 



" DR. WILLIAM DENTON, YOUNGEST SON OF SIR 
6C THOMAS DENTON, OF HILLESDEN, KNIGHT. 
u HE WAS PHYSICIAN TO KING CHARLESy THE 
* c I 8T AMD 2 NF> . HE MARRIED CATHARINE, 
* 6 DAUGHTER OF J3QSTGC& FULLER, OF TAN- 

« BRIDGE 



^6'2 A JOURNEY 

« c BRIDGE COURT, IN THE COUNTY OF SURRT, 
" ESQUIRE, BY WHOME HE HAD ANNE, HIS 
" ONLY DAUGHTER AND HEIR, THE WIFE OF 
45 SIR EDWARD NICHOLAS^ KNIGHT, PRINCIPAL 
** SECRETARY OF STATE TO KING CHARLES THE 
C6 1 st AND 2 N0 . 

" HE DIED IN MARCH MDCLXXXXI, IN THE 
cc LXXXVI YlAR OF HIS AGE. 

* c BLESSED WITH THAT HAPPY COMPOSITION 
cc OF BODY AND MIND, THAT PRESERVED HIM 
" CHEARFULL EASY AND AGREEABLE TO THE 
c \ LAST, AND ENDEARED HIM TO ALL THAT 
" KNEW HIM." 

This learned phyfician was alfo one of the 
.Confervators of the .Corporation of the Great 
Level of the Fens, in Cambridge/hire. 

*' Here, the great mailers of the healing art, 
'* Thefe mighty mock defrauders of the tomb* 
** 'Spite of their juleps and catholicons, 
" Refign to fate. 

* # ■ » * # # 

te Tell us, thou doughty keeper from the grave, 
*,' Where are thy recipes and cordials now ? 
<s With the .long lift of vouchers for thy cure; 
u Alas ! thou fpeakefl not V 

On a fmall monurnenf a 

« Near 



E< 



CC 



INTO SOUTH WALES. $6$ 

cc Near this place lycth interred the body of the. 

Honorable Godfrey Boate of the County of 

Tipperary, Efq. one of the Juflices of his Ma- 

jetty's Court of King's Bench in Ireland in the 

reign of King George, the firfl. He married 
" Gary firft daughter of Alexander Denton of 
" Hillefden Efquire" 

On a large black marble, 

" Edmundus Denton Baronettus 
u (Filius natu maximus Alex. Denton de Hill* 
<( e s den Armiger i, et Estherje uxoris ejus, Filige 
" unicae et hasredis Niceolai Herman de Mid- 
" dle'Ton Stony in Agro Gxon. Armigeri) obiit 
tc quarto die Maii mdccxiv astatis 38." 

On another, 

" Mart Rowe Vifcountefs of Hillsborough 
<c Daughter otAxTONrRowE Efq of the County 
" of Middlesex, had for her firfl hufband Sir 
cc Edmund Denton Baronet of Hillesden 9 
cc and for her fecond, the Right Honourable Lord 
" Vifcount Hillsborough of the Kingdom of 
Ci Ireland; died August 23 d 1742 aged 58.'* 

On another; 

M Mrs. DorothtDenton the feventh Daugh- 
£* ter of Six Alexander Denton of Hillesden 

" Knt. 



364 A JOURNEY 

" Knt. by Mary the Daughter and Coheir of 
* c Edmund Hampden of Hart well in the 
" County of Bucks Efq. died the 14 day of 

2, 



Anno 



CDni 171 

iiEt. 75 . 



On a large monument, confiding of a pyra- 
midal piece of dark clouded marble, rifing 
from behind an antique farcophagus, and orna* 
mented with bulls, is the following : 
" JVL S. 
" Catharinje Denton 

€i JOHANNISBOND DE SuNDRISH IN COMITATE 

" Cantii, vilije et h^eredis 
** uxoris autem honorabilis viri 
" Alexandri Denton eojjitis 
" e justiciariis de banco, 
u it celcissimo wall1m principi frederick 
« Cancellarii. 
• " siste et defle. 
* 6 tantis virtut1eus fceminam ornatam 
" morte immatura esse prereptam 
** pietate erga deum non simulata 

" amore in maritum casto 

" liberalitate in ege.nos prompta 

** comitate in omnes singulart 

" NOTIS 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 365 

* c NOTIS ATQ^ AMICIS CHARA VIXIT 

u UTILE EXEMPLAR OMNIBUS RELIQUIT. 

" TRACTO TANDEM MORBIS CORPORE, 

t€ ANIMO TAMEN DOLORIBUS INVICTO 

" VITA CESSIT 

" DIE XXVI MENSIS JUNII ANNO SALUTIS 1733 

" XXXIX ANNOS NATA 

* c UXORI OPTIMA MARITUS 
" AMORIS ERGA 

<c M. M. P." 

A neat white marble flab, near the monument* 
has the following infcription: 

u HERE LIETH THE BODY OF THE HONOUR- 
<c ABLE ALEXANDER DENTON, ESQ^ ONE OF THE 
<c JUSTICES OF BIS' MAJESTIES COURT OF COM- 
" MON PLEAS, AND CHANCELLOR TO HIS ROYAL 
■" HIGHNESS the PRINCE OF WALES ; WHO DIED 
" THE 2 2 ri of MARCH ANNO DOMINI 1 73 9 iETATIS 
" SUiE 6l." 

On a white marble monument, ere£led againft 
the fouth wall of the chancel : 

<c Near this place lies interred the body of 
" George Wood w a r d Efq . Envoy Extraordi* 
66 nary from the King of Great Britain ft? the 
" King and Republic ^Poland. He was the 
" Grandfon o/GlorgeWoodwap.d ofSrRATOH 
" Audley in the County of Oxford Efq. and 

fi Ann 



266 A JOURNEY 

c< Ann his Wife, one of the Daughters of Sir Alex- 
" a n d £R Den ton K fit. he died at Warsaw the 
" i oth of November in the year of our Lord 1735, 
" and in the 38/Z? year of his age. 

On a black marble, at the eafl end of the 
north aifle, 

" To the memory of 
cc Elizabeth Daughter of Sir Thomas Benton 
" of Hillefden in the County of Bucks Knt. 
" late Wife of Thomas IJham Elq. 
" Son of Sir Eufeby IJham of Pitchley 
" in the County of Northampton, 
" by whom he had two Sons, and one Daughter ; 
" of which three, her fon Thomas is only living. 
" She died on the 20th of September 1667 
" in the 51ft year of 
" her age. 
fC Pia Mater, Certa Arnica, Optima Conjux 5 
" hie jacet. 
" Quae virtute fua praelucet vivis 
" Sibique fit fuperfles 
" Matrona tarn tenax 
" Amicitise tarn jurata cultrix 
6C ut nunquam amicos 

" magis fugerit 

" qua in in eo temp oris 

4C articulo quo morte eft. 



cc 



Tali 



INTO SOUTH WALES- 367 

cc Tali et tain digna prasrepta 
u Conjuge (ipfo lumine chariore) 
" Deus mariti ccecitatem munifice 

" compenfabit, 

" Tali ne exemplum delebit Urna 

C£ In cum defuefcarit cineres 

" Pati veftigia." 

On the north fide of the church-yard, there 

is a frone crofs, but no account of its origin 

could be obtained. 

From Hillefden we pafTed through Edgcott, a 
fmall village, to Grendon Underwood, a very dirty 
place ; infomuch, that it has been proverbially 
celebrated in this couplet : 

*' Grendon Underwood, , 

" The dirhcjl town that ever flood." 

It is fituated on the borders of what was once 
called Bern-wood Foreft ; but it is now a country 
rich in corn fields and pafturage. 

The name of the village is probably derived 
from the fmall verdant eminence weftward of 
the Parfonage, Green don, in Saxon, fignifying 
a greQii hill. 

In the church, which is a neat gothic build- 
ing, is an elegant monument by Sbeemaker, re- 

prefenting 



$68 A JOURNEY 

preferred a gentleman, in a recumbent: pofture, 
and above, the medallion of a youth. The in* 
fcription is as follows : 



ce 



JOHN PIGOTT 



<c OF DODDERSHALL ESQ^. AND ONE OF HIS MA- 
" JESTIES JUSTICES OF PEACE FOR THE COUNTY 
" OF BUCKS, DEPARTED THIS LIFE THE 24™ 
cc DAY OF SEPTEMBER IN THE YEAR OF OUR LOR B 
<« I75I, AND IN THE 47 th YEAR OF HJS AGE.'* 

cc HE WAS THE SECOND SON OF ROBERT PIG07T 
cc OF CHETWYN IN TH£ COUNTY OF SALOP ESQ^ 
C( AND AS SUCH ENJOYED THE MANORS OF 
* c GRENDON UNDERWOOD AND DODDERSHALL IN 
" THIS COUNTY BY VIRTUE OF A SETTLEMENT 
" MADE OF THOSE MANORS UPON THE SECOND 
" SON OF THAT FAMILY, BY THOMAS PIGOTT ESQ^ 
tc THE LAST HEIR MALE OF THE ANCIENT FA- 
" MILY OF THE PIGOTTS OF DODDERSHALL. 

" HE MARRIED CHRISTOEELLA ONE OF THE 
<c DAUGHTERS AND COHEIRS OF SIR THOMAS 
" TYRREL OF C ASTLETFIORFE IN THE COUNTY 
* c OF BUCKS, BARONET, WHO SURVIVED HIM, 
" AND RECEIVED AN AMPLE TESTIMONY OF THE 
4C GREAT REGARD AND AFFECTION WITH WHICH 
" HE HONOURED HER WHILST LIVING, BY THE 
IQ " GENE- 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 369 

* C GENKROUS PROVISION HE MADE FOR HER, BY 
U HIS WILL, AT HIS DEATH. 

" HE HAD ISSUE ONLY ONE SON RoEERT 
<c Picon' WHO WAS BORN JULT THE 5™ IN THE 
cc YEAR OF OUR LORD 1735, AND DIED AT 
<c SCHOOL, THE 2J\ n DAY OF NOVEMBER, IN 
" THE YEAR OF OUR LORD 1747, AND IN THE 
« I3TH YEAR OF HIS AGEJ TO THE INEXPRES- 
<c S.BLE LOSS AND AFFLICTION OF BOTH HIS 
" PARENTS. 

*' ChRISTOBELLA PlGOTT HATH CAUSED THIS 
" MONUMENT TO BE ERECTED TO THE MEMO- 
" RY OF HER EVER HONOURED HUSBAND, AND 
cc DEAR SON, WHO BOTH LIE BURIED TOGETHER 
" UNDERNEATH THIS CHANCEL, WHERE SHE 
" INTENDS ALSO TO BE BURIED WITH THEM; 
w AND HOP; S TO R:SE WITH THEM IN GLORY, 
" AT THE LAST DAY." 

Over the north door of the chancel is a very 
fmall and neat tablet, thus infcribed : 
" to the memory of 
" Harriot Lamb 
" daughter of sir thomas tlrrell bar? 
" of castlethorpe in this county j 
<c and sister of viscountess say and sele 3 
Bb "in 



370 A JOURNEY 

" IN WHOSE VAULT, HER REMAINS 
cc WERE DEPOSITED 

" according to her own desire. 

" she died September i8t h 17^5^ 

On a fmall black marble, in the floor^ 

" in 

" memory of 

'* James Lamb, esq. 

" of kidl1ngt0n 

<e IN OXFORDSHIRE, 

fc WHO DEPARTED THIS LIFE 

" I S . T NOV*. 1777, 

" AGED 75 

€C YEARS." 

On a piece of white marble, placed lozenge 
wife, within the communion rails, 
" Under this ftone 
" lieth the body of 
Francis Grefley L. L. B. 
20 years Reclor of this Parifh. 
He died Dec. 30, A. D. 1778 



cc 
cc 



" aged 66 years. 

f* Reader learn from Ms example 

" to love and fear 

« £0D; 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 37I 

** to be in charity with all men, 
- " and to expect 
" thy reward in 
" Heaven!" 
On another, 

" In memory of 

" Mary Relicl of 

" Francis Gre/ley 

" who died 

C€ Auguft 10th, 1782 

« aged 54." 

<3n an oval marble, againfl the fouth wall, 

" Underneath this ftone 

" repo&/& 

" the remains 

« of 

<c Margaret Sufanna Litikhales 

" Second Daughter 

" of 

« the rev d Do&. Littlehales 

" Rettor of this Parijh 

" and 
" Margaret his wife. 

** She departed this life the 8th day of Sept. 
" 1786 

" aged 12 years. 

B b 2 « Rdeas'd 



37^ A JOURNEY 

" Releas'd, bleft maid, from ev'ry woe, 

*' Beyond the reach of pain, 
'• Thy friends one confolation know, 

*' 'Tis meeting thee again. 
" When th' archangel calls thee forth, 

" And fouls and bodies join, 
*' What crouds will wifh their time on earth, 

" Had been as fhort as thine." 

Among other memorials in the church-yard 
Is the following : 

<c Sacred 

<c to the Memory of 

" Thomas George, who died 

" September i, 1786, aged 45 years: 

* 6 and of 

<c Frances 

<c his wife, who died 

€C Auguft 28, in the fame year, aged. 37 years,, 

" If filial piety, 
<c If conjugal affe&ion, 
<c If parental tendernefs, 
c< may claim the tribute of 
" a figh, 
" Reader! 
" let the tear of fympathy 
" bear witnefs of 

cc the virtues 
* here deposited." 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. ^73 

The walls of the church are covered with 
texts of fcripture, enforcing feveral moral duties ; 
and at the weft end are rude figures of Time 
and Death. 

As thefe ornaments appear to have been fet 
up at the deftruclion of the Rood-loft, at the Re- 
formation, a conjecture may be permitted, that 
in fmall churches the loft might have been placed 
at the weft end, inftead of between the church 
and chancel, 

I am not ignorant that it has been dated, that 
the rood-loft was neccffarily placed between the 
church and chancel ; that ail who entered the 
latter muft pafs under the crofs : but this typifi- 
cation of the fuflerings and duties of the Chrif- 
tian warfare, feems to favour more of the fym« 
boh and fpiritualizing of fome modern fects than 
to be a real account of matter of fact : and a 
learned author, who lived foon after the time of 
Popery, in fome degree ftrengthens this opinion, 
by acknowledging himfelf uncertain of the Jitua* 
tion of the rood-loft. 



Bb 3 



374 A JOURNEf 



CHAP. XXXIV. 

Dodder/hall. — Sguainton. — The Church. — ^Monuments. 

From Grendon Underwood we rode through a 
fylvan country to DodderJhaM, the ancient feat of 
£he Pigotts, which contains fome family pi&ures, 
but is much negle&ed ; and from thence to Lee- 
Grange, formerly the residence of the Dormers? 
but now converted into a farm-houfe. 

A chain of fifli ponds, and a few venerable 
oaks are the only remaining indications of it& 
former confequenee. 

On a neighbouring hill a beautiful fcreen of 
trees has been planted, which is feen at a great 
didance, and is an elegant ornament to the com' 
fields and fmoothly fhorn meadows contiguous. 

Arrived at ^uainton, a large, regular, and- 
populous village, fituated at the foot of a noble 
hill, which prefents from its fummit, perhaps the 
mod extenfive inland profpecl to be met with in 
the kingdom 5 for the horizon on the weft and^ 
north fides is an imaginary connexion between 
ih§ clouds and the plainy— -the true boundary 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 2>7 S 

being only the weaknefs of vifion, for there arc 
no hills to interrupt the profpecl:. 

The eye commands a much greater extent 
here than on Malvern, but it wants the Severn; 
for although where the view is mod confined 
it reaches at lead twenty miles, not a fingle river 
can be difcerned. 

More than fifty parifii churches may be diftin- 
guifhed, and numerous feats of the nobility, and 
other perfons of fortune* 

" Ah happy hills ! ah ! pleafing fhade ! 

M Ah fields belov'd in vain ! 

" Where once my carelefs childhood ftray'dj 

" A ftranger yet to pain ! 

M I feel, the gales that from ye blow, 

'" A momentary blifs beftow, 

" As waving frefh their gladfome wing, 

" My weary foul they feem to foothe, 

" And redolent of joy and youth, 

t( To breathe a fecond fpring." 

The parifh is a rectory of confiderable value* 
the hamlets of Dodder/hall, Lee-Grange and Den* 
bam, being incorporated with it. 

The church is of a refpectable fize, and pro- 
bably was erected about the reign of Edward 
the third, or perhaps earlier, 

Bb 4 fe 



37$ A JOURNEY 

It ftands on a rifmg ground, at the eaftern ex* 
tremity of the village, and is remarkable for 
having in the church-yard one of the largeft elm 
trees in England. 

This tree grows near the entrance, anciently 
called the Lyche gate, and at funerals the cuf- 
tom is (till retained of refting the corpfes under 
it till the clergyman comes to meet the pro- 
ceffion. The tower as well as the church is 
embattled, and at the four corners are four gro- 
tefque figures, probably of daemons, which, in 
ancient times, were fuppofed to fly away at the 
found of bells, which, on being put up, were 
ufualiy fprinkled with holy water. 

The building confifts of three aifles, and there 
is a neat gallery at the weft end, with a fmall organ. 

In the abutment of the main arch leading to 
the chancel, the winding flairs ftill remain, which 
formerly led to the rood-loft; and on the par- 
titions of wood work between the church and 
the belfrey, are fome ancient figures of faints, 
indifferently painted ; but all the coloured glafs 
has been removed from the windows. 

In the chancel are feveral monuments of great 
elegance, which are truly worthy of the atten- 
tion of the curious. 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 377 

The fir ft, on the left hand, is executed in a 
very mafterly manner. An emaciated figure of 
a young man is reclining on cufhions, feemingly 
worn out by a confumption. At the feet is a 
lady (his mother) kneeling, and -in tears. At 
the head (lands his father, dreffed in his robes as 
a judge, with a countenance flrikingly expreffive 
of a great foul, ffruggling with the keenefl an- 
guifh. 

Thefe figures are remarkably fine, and the 
finifhing of the whole is admirable., I think the 
hand of the judge and the countenance of the 
young man, can fcarcely be excelled. 

A pyramid of white marble rifes in the back 
ground, and an arch of variegated marble is 
crowned with the family arms. 

■' interred in one vault in the middle of 
'• church, lye the bodies of the honourable 
" Robert Dormer, esq., of Lee-Grange, in this 
** parish, late one of the justices of the 
" court of common pleas, at westminster: 
•' as also of Mary, his wife, the daughter 
'• of sir Richard Blake, knt. deceased the 
m 16th of march, 1728; and of fleetwood 
< Dormer, eso^their only son, who died the 
" 2istof june, 1726, in the 3oth year of his 
c< ace, a young gentleman of great merit, 

<c AN© 



Cj^S ' A JOURNEY 

df AND YET GREATER EXPECTATIONS. Of AN EX- 
c * CELLENT GOOD DISPOSITION OF MIND, AND PER4 
,r FECTLY WELL ACCOMPLISHED, WHO HAD REN- 
* C DERED HIMSELF MOST DEAR TO His FRIENDS 
•' AND RELATIONS, BUT CHIEFLY TO HIS PARENTS, 
" WHOM HE LEFT INCONSOLABLE, INSOMUCH THAT 
i( HIS FATHER, UNABLE TO SUPPORT HIMSELF UN" 
*' DER SO GREAT A GRIEF OF MIND, SURVIVED BUT 
u FEW MONTHS, DECEASING ON THE iBtH OF SEP- 
tc TEMBER, IN THE 77TH YEAR OF HIS AGE, AND 
*' OF THE CHRISTIAN iERA, 1726. 

4i the said Robert Dormer was the second 
* l son of John Dormer, of Lee-Grange, esq^, 

*' BEING A BRANCH OF THE ANCIENT AND NOBLE 
te FAMILY OF THE DORMERS, WHO HAVE LONG 
" FLOURISHED IN THIS COUNTY, FOR WHICH HE 
" HAD THE HONOUR TO BE CHOSEN TWICE A RE- 
t€ PRESENTATIVE IN PARLIAMENT, AS ALSO ONCE 
« FOR THE BOROUGH OF AYLESBURT, AND SEVERAL 

,c times for Northallerton, in Yorkshire, 

se TILL SUCH TIME THAT HE WAS ADVANCED TO 
" THE HONOURABLE BENCH, WHICH POST HE FIL- 
f£ LED WITH GREAT LEARNING AND INTEGRITY, 
€i DURING THE SPACE OF ABOVE TWENTY YEA.RS, 
" ENJOYING IT TO THE END OF HIS LIFE. BY THE 
" DEATH OF HIS ELDER BROTHER SIR JOHN Doit 
" MER, AND HIS NEPHEW SIR WlLLIAM D0RM£R f 
* ( BARONETS, WITHOUT ISSUE MALE, THE ESTATE 

«« at Lee-Grange devolved upon him, and is 
1 j «« now 



INTO SOUTH WALES. $79 

*' NOW DESCENDED TO HIS FOUR DAUGHTERS 

f Mart, Catharine, Elizabeth, married to 

** THE HONOURABLE SIR JOHN FORTESCUE ALAND? 

ei of Knov/l's Hill, in the county of Essex, 
" knt. and one of the justices of the court 
" of common pleas, and rlcharda, the wife 
* of John Parkhurst, of Catesbt, in the 
*' county of Northampton, eso^ besides these 
'* he had also a son and two daughters, who 

** DIED IN THEIR INFANCY. 

" this monument was begun by the direc- 
•* tion of Mart Dormer, his widow, in her 
*' life time, but she dying before the same 
*' was finished, it is now erected (but at 

" HER SOLE EXPENCE} AND CONSECRATED, BY THE 
** DAUGHTERS AND THEIR HUSBANDS, TO THE 
* c MEMORY OF THEIR DEAREST FATHER, MOTHER* 
** AND BROTHER. 

" ANNO DOM. I730." 



The above mentioned Sir John Forte/cm 
Aland was a Do&or of Laws, and Fellow of the 
Royal Society. His feat at Knowl's Hill, oncer 
the refidence of Henry Spencer, Bifhop of Nor* 
wich, has been celebrated in a defcriptive poem 
by Mr. Barford.' 

On a very fmall piece of marble, at the en- 
trance of the chancel : 

« Here 



$$Q A JOURNEY 

u Here lyeth the body of Richard 
" Pigoty Efq. eldefl fori of Sir Richard 
" Pigoty of Dotherfhall, Knt. by Dame 
" Anne his wife, eldefl daughter of 
" Sir Edward Harrington, Baro- 
" net, who died at the age of fix weeks. 
" a. d. 1634." 

On another : 

* c Here lyeth the body of Margery 
" Pigoty daughter of Sir Richard 
" Pigoty of Boiherjhally , Knt. by Dame 
" Anne, his wife, eldefl daughter of 
" Sir Edward Harringtony Baronet, 
" who died at the age of 1 8 weeks. 
" a. d. 1 643" 

On another : 

" HERE LYETH THE BODY OF 

" Lettice, 
" daughter of the hon—' thomas 
*■ Coote, of Dublin, in Ireland, 
« Esq. BY DAME Anne, HIS WIFE, 
*' HE DEPARTED THIS LIFE AT DOD- 
« DERSHALL, APRIL Y E 7TH, 1 693, 
" AGED 2 YEARS AND II MONTHS." 



on 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 38 I 

On another : 

" Talium eft regnum Dei 

" Fleetwood Dormer ', eldefifonof 

" Robert Dormer, Efq. 

" by Mary his wife, 

" Daughter and coheir e of 

Sir Richard Blake, 

" lyes here interred : 

<c bee begann this mortall life 

" the 6th day of Augufi, 

u in the year of our Lord, 1693, 

" and exchanged the light of 

M this world 

" for that which is eternal 

" on the gth day of June, 

« 1695. 

te ^uicunque non exceperit regnum Dei 

" ut puerulus, necpiaquam in id 

" ingrediaiur" 

On another : 

H. 5. E. 

" ANNA DORMER 

" FILIM HONORABILI VIRI 

t( ROBERTI DORMER ARMIG ; 

" ET MARINE UXORJS EJUS 

« OS JIT ANNO DOMINI, M. Z>. C. C. V. 7. 

" DIE 



$$Z A JOURNEY 

" DIE J UNI I XVI 

<e MT ATI S SUM 

" MENSE DECIMO OCTAVO 

CORPUS TERRM MANDATUM 

" ANIMA DEO REDDITA. 

« SATIS VIXIT, 

" CUM DECESSIT IN DOMINO " 

On the north fide of the chancel is a monument; 
of variegated marble, divided into compartments^ 
.decorated with urns and weeping boys, It is 
charged with no lefs than four infcriptions. 

" Hie jacet 

cc Quantum vlrtutis vivere ! 

" Quantum pietatis mori ! 

" potuit 

&€ Fleeiwoodus Dormer, de Lee Grange, Eques* 

cc p e f r i Dormer, et Margarita, 

tc Thoma Fleetwood Armigeri Filise 

u ex illuftri Familia Fleetwoodorum 

" de Chalfunt in Agro Buck. 

" Proles unica, 

€C Conjugem duxit Mariam 

« e Filiam Eufebii IJham, de IJham, 

" in Comitatu North amp . 

" ex ordine Equeftri j 

" ex hac 

" Filiorura 



INTO SOUTH W41ES, 383 

^ Filiorum Filiarumq; vicenario numero 

« Pater fadus 

" Poftea non tarn fatis conceflit 

" Sed qua dignus vixit, Immortalitati 

" Magnum hoc viventium exemplar 

" et morientiiT decus. 

" Obiit primo Februarii, An. D. 1638 

" Starts fuas 68. 

f* Gratitudinis ergo, Hoc monumentum pie 

" pofuit 

ec Filius natu maximus 

" Johannis Dormer" 

H. S. E. 

jfoHANNis Dormer armiger 

" be Lee Grange, in hac vicinA 

f Fleetwoodi Dormer, equitis aurati 

" EILIUS NATU MAXIMUS 

* 6 VIR INGENIO, ERUDITIONE, ET VIRTUTE 

" PR^ESTANTI : 

¥ MORES URBESQUE MULTORUM HOMINUM VIDITo 

" IN SENATORIUM ORDINEM COOPTATUS 

ct PATRIAE JURA LIBERTATEM RELIGIONEMQ.J 

" EGREGIE COLUIT ET DEFENDIT. 

* ET UXORE CaTHERINA 

ff Thomje Woodward armigeri filia unica 

" ET H^REDE 



« 



SEX 



384 -A JOURNEY 

<c SEX LIBEROS SUSCEPIT, 
« JOHANNEM, ROBERTUM, FlEETWOODUA£ 

*< Mariam^ Catharinam, An nam. 

" obiit die xx1j maii ann. christ. mdclxxix 

" jETatis svje lxviij." 

" H. S. E. 

" Fleetwoodus Dormer Miles 

<c de Arle Court , in agro Goceftrlenjt 

€C Fleetwood! Dormer Equitis Aurati Filius natu* 

" Latine, Grasce, Hebraice, 

" do&us. 

" Bello Civili partes et fidem, 

" fecutus eft. 

" In Virginia American regione aliquandiu 

" fedem fixit. 

" In matrimoniam duxit 

" Catharinam Ligon 

" Filiam et cohasredem Johannis Ligon Arm. 

* c Eaq; defuncta Mariam Harris 

" fed in utroq; conjugio expers Liberorum 

" Robertum Dormer ex Fratre, Nepotem 

" Hssredem inftituit. 

" Deceflit die xxvj Augujli 

" JErss Chrifli mdcxcvi 

" annos natus lxxxi." 

The above mentioned Catharine Ligon inherited 
the porlenlon of Arle Courts which came into her 

family 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 385 

family by the intermarriage of her anceftor, Sir 
Richard Ligon, with the daughter of Judge 
Grevil. She died in 1678, aged 72, and lies 
buried, according to Mr. Rudder , at Cheltenham* 
in Glocejierjhire. 

The fourth infcription is as follows : 
" Robertas Dormer Arm. 
" Memoriae Patris et Patrui 
cc de fe optima meritoruni 
" Marmora hssc confecravit 
<f Honoris Pietatifq; caufa." 

On the fame fide, but within the rails and 
near the communion table, is a fumptuous monu- 
ment of Sienna marble, with pillars and pilafters 
of the raoft beautiful porphyry, fupporting a 
richly ornamented frize and architrave. A far- 
cophagus of black marble with yellow veins reds 
on eagles' claws on a flab of verd antique. 

" HERE LIETH 

« IN HOPES OF 

" A 

" BLESSED RESURRECTION 

« SIR RICHARD PIGOTT, OF DODDERSHALL, IN THIS 

■ COUNTY, KNT. DESCENDED FROM THE ANCIENT FA- 
" MILY OF THE PIGOTTS OF W ADDON, IN THfS COUNTT. 

« HE MARRIED ANN, DAUGHTER OF SIR EDWARD 
« HARRINGTON, OF MERTONIN THE CCUNTTOV OXON. 
« BART. HE DIED WITHOUT ISSUE IN APRIL 16^5, AND 
« DAME ANN, HIS WIFE, IN JANUART, 1688. 

« HERE LIETH ALSO THOMAS PIGOTT OF DODDER- 

■ SHALL ESO^ NEPHEW AND HEIR TO THE ABOVE MEN* 
" TIONED SIR RICHARD PIGOTT. HE MARRIED LETTICE 

C c « ELDEST 






386 A JOURNEY 

" ELDEST DAUGHTER AND COHEIRESS TO ROBERT L0- 
" FETT, OF ZZSC0MJ2, IN THIS COUNTY, ESQ^BY WHOM 
" HE HAD ISSUE TWO SONS, WHO BOTH DIED IN THEIR 
" INFANCY. 

« HE DEPARTED THIS LIFE IN MARCH, 1704, IN THfc 
" 60TH YEAR OF HIS AGE. 

" ZETTZCE, HIS WIDOW, WHO LiETH HERE ALSO, DIED 
" NOVEMBER THE 18TH 1735, AGED 84." 

To this lad mentioned lady the parifh is in- 
debted for a fuperb pulpit cloth and cufhion, of 
crimfon velvet, richly laced, and fringed with 
gold, and embroidered with her arms, and the 
initials of her name. 

On the fouth fide of the altar 9 on a white 

ftone : 

" H. S. E. 

" Galfridus Ekins 

" Galfridi Ekins 

66 hujus ecclefise paftoris 

" et Anns uxoris 

" Filius : 

<c Mortem obiit infans 

" Anno 1770 

" Hau ! fpes abreptas breves.*' 

Beneath the effigy of a prieft, in brafs, in the 

the old letter : 

" aiurquig txi§ qui tvzmUtm ffia plegs 
*• gljwa Mqpi tvi$ fueroq; eg p mt 

« pitcor ova." 

Round 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 387 

Round the verge 

" f£ic jacet apagiffer 3laue~g 

" ©pence qtiontrnm Keaor j&ujug ecclie' 
" tie ©Benton qui nhiit tnrc Brno tae meTe ©ep- 
cc tebf 3una tDotn, ttuccc, ♦ ♦ ♦ 
«<♦♦'♦♦♦ Iot& cuf ate ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ 2Deu&" 

Againft the fouth wall is a fmall painted mo« 
nument, with the figure of a man in a doc. 
tor's gown, his wife, with a large ruff, and 
four children, all kneeling. 

Above their heads is this fentence : 

" Verbum Dei manet in eternu ." 

The faces, as well as apparel, are painted y 
the hair is reprefented with powder, and there 
are imitations of pieces of needle -work, hung up 
in frames, by way of ornament to the little clo- 
fet in which the family is aflembled. 

Below are the following infcriptions, in gold 
letters : 

AT t : • • - • 

Pro v. Ch. x. v. vif. 
** rov dyuva, toy x&Xov H yuvwp.o<,i 
'* tov ^pejuf TfTfAExa ty\v Xigiu 

<C TETH^SJCa ACH7T0V QLTrQKZ ITOCfAOlQ T~H£« 

— -$Moaoo-ooiH$ rztpocvos oy ct7TQ$wru 

C c 3 The 



388 A JOURNEY 

" BEAT^E MEMORIA 
" VIRI TAM DOCTRINA QUAM PIETATE 
sc EXIMI LINGUIS, LATINA, GR^CA, H-ffiBRAI- 
" CA, CHALDAICA, SYRIAC.&, ARABICA, JETH1- 
iC OPICA AD CRITIC1SM~U USQJPERITI VERNACU- 
< c LJE BIBLIOM. EDITIONIS NOVISSIMjE, PARI- 
<c TER ET ACCURATISSIM^E AUCTORIS INTER 
" NOMINATISS 7 . CONSPICUI, PASTORIS OCCU- 
" LATISS 1 . VERB! D1VINI PR^ECORIS MAXIME 
" S^DUjLI, MARITI FID£LISS T . AMICI CON- 
" JUNCTISS 1 .PROPINQUI IN AUGUSTUS PROXI- 
* c MI, DIVITIB S . ET PAUPERIB. PER^EQ^ CHARI, 
" DE ECCLESlA. DEI LABORIB 8 . PRIVATIS ET 
a PUBLICIS OPTIME MERIT1 RICHARDI BRETT 

M 55* theol: doctoris digniss 1 . huj s . ec- 

K CLEST.E PER 42 ANNOS RECTORIS VIGILEN- 
" TISS 1 . qui PER MORTIS CORPORALIS JANU- 
" AM AD VlT-ffi ^T£RNiE PROGRESSUS EST 
•«« ATRIUM, AN°. jETATIS SU^E 70. 

" HOC MONUMENTUM MOERENS DICAVIT, 
" CHARISSIMA EJUS PER 39 ANNOS THORr 
" CONJUGALIS CONSORS ALICIA BRETT A°. D T . 
« 1637. 

" Infallitur inclufum, fubje&um pulvere Brettutn 
" Qui cogitat Chrifto vivit et ufq; viret. 

16 Infteed of weeping marble, weepe for him 
*' All ye his flock, whom he did firive to wmn 
" To Chrift, to lyfe, fo mail you duly fett 
«« The moil defircd ftone on Do&or §rett." 

Which 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 389 

Which jingling rhymes, and affected latiniza- 
tion, remind me of a whimfical couplet pro. 
duced by a waggiih fellow, by way of epitaph, 
for the late architect Sir William Browne. 

" Per totum Toivmtm 

" Defun&um plaugite Brotvnum. 19 

The tranflation of the Bible, in the reign of 
King James the fir ft, was undertaken and com- 
pleted by 47 perfons, who were divided into fix 
companies : two from Oxford, two from Cam- 
bridge, and two from Wcflminjier. Dr. Brett, 
then A. M. was of Lincoln College ; the reft of 
the Oxford men were Dr. Harding of Magdalen, 
J. Reynold^ prefident of C. C. C. T. Holland, 
rector of Exeter, Richard Kilby of Lincoln, Miles 
Smyth of Brazen-nofe, R. Fair dough of New Col- 
lege, G. Abbot, aean of Winton, mailer of Univer- 
Jity Col. (afterwards Archbifhop of Canterbury}) 
Giles Thompfon, dean of Wind/or, of All Souls, 
(afterwards Biihop of Gloccfter^) John Harman, 
warden of Winton (and fometime Regius Profef- 
for of Greek), John Aglionby, principal of Ed- 
mund Hall, John Perin, Greek reader, fellow of 
St. John's Col. and canon, of Ch. Ch. Leonard 
Huttcn, canon of Ch. Ch. To thefe w£re alio 
added Dr. Thomas Ravis, dean of Ch. Ch. and 
Sir Hmry Sayill, warden of Merton, 

C c 3 Near 



39° A JOURNEY 

Near the fteps leading to the altar, are the 
following words, on a brafs plate : 

" feic facet fcnjfrjofi^ $z\kp$ Qtiottlf ffiettor 
" tttlit t)t ffiupntoif qui abut ti do hit jfto- 
<c pmW. a° + ©ifu *p° cccc°. m\°* m? ate pro 
" m if ♦ &me~." 

On another, under a female figure : 

* r Here lyeth buryed under this flone Maif- 
" tres Margery Verney late Wyfe to S r RaufF 
•* Verney Knyght &; oon of the doughters and 
u heires of maift r . John Jwardby fquyer fum 
Cft tyme lord of this towne, which Margery de- 
'* cefTed the xxvj day of Juyn the yere of o r . lord 
" god m' v* Lij on whofe foule Jhu* have mercy 
** amen/' 

It is to be obferved, that although mention 
is here made of a lord of the manor of Sthiain- 
ton, a lapfe of many years has devolved that ho- 
nour on the freeholders, who have a right to 
appoint a game-keeper, and to do all other acts, 
which a lord of the manor would and ought to 
execute. Perhaps there are few inftances in which 
the feudal tenure has been fo completely broken 
through, in any other place in the kingdom. 

On the fouth fide of the chancel is a table 
monument of black marble, with two fine bufts ; 

that 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 39! 

that of the lady fubfcribed " Praivi ;" that of her 
hufband, " Sejuar." 

" Ch' iddio Vuole, in Vuolo" 
" In Memoriam perpetuam incomparabilh op* 
" time mcerentis et pracharijji?na Uxoris fua et 
" Liber or um fuorum indulgcntijfima Matris cum 
" ingcnti amore et admiratiohe Virtuium ejus^ hoc 
M monumeritum pie pofidt lugens 

iQ Maritus mceftijjimus" 

" MEMORISE JUST^E ^TERN^, 
" HIC JUXTASiTA EST SUSANNA DOMINA DOR- 
" MER FiL: A ET COHERES RICHARDI BROWNE 
" DE ALSCOTT IN COMITATU GLOCESTRENSr 
" EQJJ1TIS AURATI, ET CONJUX DILECTISSIMA 
* C JOHANNIS DORMER DE LEE GRANGE IN HAC 
Cc PAROCHA DE QUA'NTON EQUiTIS AURATI ET 
rt BARONETTI (fILII NATU MAXIMI JOHANNIS 



AGRO VIGORN ENSI ARMIGERl) QUI SUI ETI- 

AM 1PSIUS C NERES HIC REFONENDOS CU- 

RAV1T, QUI UNANIMO CONVlXERANT, UNO 

TUMULO RECUMBANT, PROLEM HABUFRA'NT, 

DUOS F1LIOS ET DUAS FILIAS, VIDELICET JO- 

FIANNEM ET SUSANNAM, GULIELMUM ET 

" CATHARINAM, IN QUIBUS RELIQU1T ILLA 

" TANTUM SUPERSTITES GULIELMUM ET SU- 

C C 4 " SAN NAM, 



39^ A JOURNEY 

" SANNAM, QUINTO DIE POST CATHARINE 
cc PAR.TUM (AD INFANDUM MARlTI SUI DOLO- 
w REM) HEU ! ANIMAM EXPIRABIT AB OMNI- 
" BUS DILECTA ET DEPLORATA QVJE DUM VIXIT 
" PIETATE IN DEUM, OBSEQUIO IN PARENTES, 
" AMORE IN MARITUM, INDULGENTIA IN LIBE- 
" ROS, HUMILITATE GRATIOSA MORUMQUE 
" SUAVITATE ET CHARITATE IN OMNES SIN- 
" GULARI ALIISQUE LAUDANDIS VIRTUTIBUS 
" EXCELLUIT SUPER OMNIA IN EXTREMIS 
" CERTA SFE ET FIDUCIA REGNI COELESTIS MI- 
" RAQUE CHRISTIANA CONSTANTlA ET ALA- 
" CRITATE PR^DITA SPIRITUM ULTIMUM IN 
" MANUS DEI UT CK.EATORIS ET REDEMPTORIS 
*< SUI FIDELISSIMI, CUM ARDENTISSIMIS VOTIS 
<c £T preCIBUS, REDDIDIT APUD RICHMONDIf 
" AM IN COMITATU SURRIiE, VIGESIMO QUARTO 
** DIE FEBRUARIIj CUJUS CORPUS FOELICIS ANJ- 
* c MJB CFIARISS1MUM PIGNUS, IN DIEM RESUR- 
* c RECTIONIS HIC REPOSITUM EST, DECIMO TER- 
" TIO DIE MARTII PROXIMA SEQUENTI, ANNO 
" DOMINI SALVATORIS MILLESIMO SEXCENTE- 
< 5 SIMO SEPTUAGESIMO QUINTO, ET DULCISSJ- 
iC MI C0NJUGAL1S CONSORTU UNDECIMO." 

" Hie te [char a Sufanna) heat Jul marmore duro 

" Confortis Thalami cur a dolor que tut ; 

« Ut cum nojlra tuts ftccentur lumina damnis 

" Contribuant guttas fax a vel ipfa fuas ; 
<? Qulppe hie cqjla Fides, Pie/as, Concordia, Virtus 

iC Omnia funt uno contumulata loco" 

" PR.EIVIT 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 



393 



" PR^SIVIT CONJUX CHARISSIMA, SEQUITUR 
MAR1TUS MOESTISSIMUS D NS . J HNNES DOR- 
MER EQUES ETBARONETTUS, VI R PROBITATE 
CLARUS CUNCTISQUE DILECTUS, NUNC COE- 
UTIBUS ANNUMERATUS. OBIIT LIGQRN1M 
IN ITALIA NOVEMB. J M0 ET HIC INFRA SE- 
PULTUS EST FEB 11 . 23 7 " 10 . A. D. 1675. O'N 
QlAEf 0EOS AnOONHSKEI NEOS. 
w SOLUS CHRISTUS. SOLA SALUS." 

The achievement is divided in two parts* 
and beneath the impalements are the following 
infcriptions : 





u In patria mea 


•"J 


" Patris cceleilis 


<-* 

a 

so 


tC Gloriosa vivo. 



o 

• <-* 

CD 
*■* 

a 

o 
« 



me venire, ad te 

" Cito cadet 
" Caduca vita 



<L> 

& 



mea Spes et 
On a black marble flab, near the monument, 

" IN THIS VAULT 
16 IS INTERRED THE BODY OF THE VIRTUOUS 
<c AND RELIGIOUS SUSANNA LADY DORMER, 
* c WHO MOST PIOUSLY LEFT THIS TRANSITORY 

" LIFE 



a 



■a 



394 A JOURNEY 

c& LIFE THE 24 th DAY OF FEBRUARY ANNO DO- 
MINI 1673/' 

*< Here way'ld by weeping marble and our eyes 

tc The deareft wife of Sir John, Dormer lies, 

*' Belov'd of all, but love cannot retrive 

" Dead friends, 't has pow'r to kill, not make alive." 

" Here alfo lyeth interred the Body of Sir 
John t)ormer of Lee Grange in the County of 
" Bucks, Kn\ and Bar 1 , who died at Leghorn 
<c in Italy Nov\ the 7 th , and was buryed Feb>\ 

« 23 d 1675." 

" Hie jacet 
" Corpus Gulielmi Dormer Baronetti 

" qui obiit ccelebs fine prole 
<c nono die Martii Anno Dom. 1725, 
" sstatis fua? $?." 
On another marble, 

" HERE LYETH THE BODY OF JOHN DORMER 
cc THE SON OF SIR JOHN DORMER OF LEE 
" GRANGE KNIGHT AND BARONET BY DAME 
" SUSANNA HIS WIFE ONE OF THE DAUGHTERS 
" AND COHEIRES OF SIR RICHARD BRAWNE OF 
" ALSCOT IN THE COUNTY OF GLOCESTER 
" KNIGHT. HE DEPARTED THIS MORTALL 
" LIFE THE FIFTH DAY OF JANUARY IN THE 
" YEARE OF LORD l666 BEING AGED SEVEN 
" MONTHS." 

On a brafs, in the middle of the chancel, be- 
low a female figure, 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 395 

" mm De faime tit mtp*" 

I conjecture this monumental record to be ve- 
ry ancient : the ufe of the French language in 
epitaphs and inferiptions is rare ; and it is fcarce- 
ly to be fuppofed, that this could have found its 
way hither fince the time when that language was 
generally fpoken in England, which was for about 
three centuries immediately after the conqueft. 

The ancient church at Arundel, in Sujpx 9 pre- 
fents one inftance of a French epitaph, in the 
fame fryle : and there is another at Cockcjlcld, near 
Alcefter (where Ifabell, the foundrefs, is buried) 
with the date 1260. There is a third in Ban* 
bury church, Effete, as late as the year 1+14: 
and thefe are all of which I happen to have any 
knowledge. 

Contiguous to the north fide of the chancel Is 
a fmall chapel, the maufoleum of the Winwoods. 

Here, on a tomb, elevated feven or eight ftQt 
above the pavement, and encloied with gilt 
rails, lye the figures of a man in armour, with a 
full-bottomed perriwig ; and his lady, in the drefs 
of the times in which me lived, mod exquifitcly 
cut in white marble. 

The coat of mail is remarkably well done. 

Near the monument is placed an iron helmet, 

1 and 



3g6 A JOURNEY 

and a filken banner, the remnant of that ancient 
cuftom, which the religion of our forefathers fug- 
gefted to them as conducive to the attainment of 
a bleffed immortality. 

The infcription does not mention in what wars 
Mr. Winwood ferved, but it is probable, in the 
unfortunate conteft between Charles the firfl:, 
and his fubjecls. 

" Here 

" lyeth the Body 

" of Richard Winwood, Efq. (one 

" of the Deputy Lieutenants of this 

" County in the reign of King 

" Charles the fecond) Son and Heir of 

«« the R*. Hon b,c . S f . Ralph Winwood, Ku 4 . 

" principal Secretary of State to King 

" Charles the firft. He married Anne 

<c one of the Daughters of 5 r Thomas 

C€ Read of the county of Barks Kn\ 

" and departed this life y e 2o lh 

" day of June Anno Dom 1 . 1688 

" in the 80 th year of his age. 

" Here lyes alfo interred the body 

u of the faid Anne, who departed this life 

li the I st day of May Anno Dom. 1691. 

" This monument was erected at the charge 
u of the above faid Mrs. Winwood, in memory 
u of her dear Hufband A. D. 1689, 

" Here 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 397 

" Here alfo lyes interred in y s vault three 
€i neices of y s above mentioned M rS . Winwood, 
ic viz. Elizabeth^ Sufanna, and Martha Rachael, 
<c Daughters of Sir Gilbert Cornwall Kn r . and 
u Baron of Burford in Com. Salop.' 9 

Againft a pillar, near the pulpit, on an oval 
tablet, 

« SACRED 

" TO THE MEMORT 

" OF 

" THE REVd. "THOMAS BOURNE 

- c WHO DIED NOV R . 4™. 1786, 

a AGED $$ YEARS. 

" ALSO OF 

» EDWARD EELES BOURNE, 

cc SON OF THE ABOVE 

" THOMAS BOURNE, 

" WHO DIED APRIL 15, 1788 

<f AGED 13 YEARS." 

On a brafs, in the floor of the chancel, 

" SDf p r (fiarme prap for tge fotile of 

" ricSarfc Bfoartrtip oca of tge fornteg of mcDa? 

" Itoarfcbp tDfiieg Drccrietr tfie yfc Dap of 3uplt 

c < t fie per of o r lovti m & v on tofiofe foule 3|if a 



<c 



gafce nf cp 



>> 



On the outfide of the wall of Winwood's cha- 
pel, is a large blue (tone, with the following : 

« la 



398 A JOURNEY 

<c In fpe beatas refurre&ionis 

" quiefcit 

<c infra hunc Tumulum fua cura 

" fibi fuisq; dum apud vivos fuit, extruclum 

rt (inter charos, at heu ! brevis asvi liberos) 

" Annam, Winwoodum, Georgium) 

6f Benjamin Archer S. T. B. 

u Hujus Ecclefise per quadraginta annos Rec"lor 

" qualis fueris 

" Hodieri Viciniam conf alat : 

1C Priam omnibus indicabit fupremus Dies. 

" Anna uxor fidelis, mceflu defuncti vidua 

" nee non Filii quotquot funt fuperftites 

" Benjamin, Gilbertus, Edvardus, Thomas 

cc Patris optime de femeriti nunquam immemores 

" nunquam fads memores futuri. 

, " Pietatis et Officii ergo 

" pofuerint 

* e Obdomivit in Chrifto xx die Augufti 

" Anno Salutis mdccxxxii 

" JEiatis fuas lxxxi." 

Not far from the fouth-eaft corner of the 

chancel, 

" Near this place 

" are interred the remains of 

" Mr. James Lip/comb, 

" Surgeon ; 

€6 who in the early part of his life 

" ferved in the Royal Navy j 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 299 

" was prefent in feveral memorable 

cc Engagements 

" by Sea, 

<c and at the Sieges of 

" Pondi 'cherry and Manilla 

" in the Eqft Indies : 
" always conducting hinifelf 
" with honour and credit. 
" In the practice of the 
" Profeffion, 
" which for near thirty years 
" he followed 
" in this Parifh, 
6i his Integrity and Humanity 
" were generally acknowledged : 
" and he has left behind him 
" the Character of 
" an honefl man. 
Cf He died December the 29th, 1794, aged 64/* 
Near the eaft end of the chancel is a free 
fchool, which deferves to be more liberally en- 
dowed. 

Contiguous to the church-yard is an Alms* 
houfe, for the relief oi poor widows and widow- 
ers; built and endorsed by Richard Winwood? 
Efq. whofe monument has been defcribed. 
The Parfonage Houfe is remarkably large and 

elegant, with handfome gardens. 

In 



4GO A JOURNEY 

In the middle of the village, which confifts of 
four flreets, which meet in a large opening, not 
unaptly called a fquare, {lands an ancient crofs, 
where a market was formerly held ; and a large 
meadow, near the town, is celebrated for the 
Races held there, in the infancy of that fport. 

A curious traveller, who parted through this 
part of the country a few years fmce, having ex- 
prefTed his furprize at the elegance of the pa- 
rim church, and its numerous monuments, took 
the pains to confult feveral topographical hifto- 
ries, in order to become acquainted with its an- 
cient ftate ; but all the information he could pro- 
cure, was contained in the following words : 
Ci £>uainton 9 a noted place for horfe-racing ; and 
<c the loft place that believed in witches. " 

About half a mile from Quainton^ on the 
north-eaft, is Denham, an old feat of the Win- 
woods ^ the property of Lord Francis Godolphin 
QJborn. The houfe is moated round, but has 
been confiderably diminimed in fize within the 
prefent century, feveral houfes in the village of 
Quainton having been erected with the materials 
brought from it. 

There is a large park, enclofed with a high 
wall ; and, on the fide of a hill, a grove of wal- 
nut-trees, called Cane (or Carnoc) wood. 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 40 1 



CHAP. XXXV. 

Wotton Underwood. — Dorton Houfe. — Chilton. — The Church* 

Intending to vifit fome of the numerous feats 
which are fo profufely fcattered over this part of 
the country, — we rode firfl to Wotton Underwood, 
the paternal eftate of the Marquis of Bucking* 
ham, who has a fine houfe and gardens here. 

Wotton is fituated in what was formerly called 
Bernwood Fore ft ; and the eftate here was be- 
ftowed on Richard de Granville who came in 
with the Conqueror, and has continued in the 
the fame family ever fince that period. 

The houfe, which is built in the fame ftyle 
as the Queen's palace in St. James's Park, but 
of a much larger fize, and with a noble flight of 
fteps leading to the entrance, ftands at the ter- 
mination of a fine treble avenue. 

The apartments are fpacious and elegantly 
finifhed. The ftair-cafe is painted with the affem- 
bly of the gods, and the drawing room has fome 
excellent carving in wood, by Gibbons. 

D d A charm- 



402 A JOURNEY.- 

A charming lake, whofe banks are covered 
with rich fhrubberies and plantations, is feen 
from the windows of the fouth-weft front ; and 
the fylvan fcenery which borders the pleafure 
grounds, furpaffes defcription. The family, how- 
ever, has feldom refided here fmce the death of 
the late Earl Temple, when the magnificent houfe 
at Stowe came into its poffeffion. 

The little church at Wotton is neither a re&ory 
nor a vicarage, but enjoys the privileges of both, 
under the title of a perpetual curacy,, fubjecl: to 
the peculiar and exclufive jurisdiction of the 
Archbifliop of Canterbury. 

From Wotton, paffing a thick wood, and a flat 
country, in which the roads are fometimes almofl 
impaffable, we came to Dorton Houfe, the feat of 
Sir John Aubrey, Baronet, which owes to his 
tafte, and the liberal application of a large for- 
tune, fome agreeable fcenes, which make it a 
moil comfortable refidence. 

The enclofures in front, confift of fome of 
the richeft corn fields and pafturage imaginable j 
and from the garden are agreeable views of wood, 
water, and fertility. 

The rooms are neither very large nor gaudy, 
but they are all well fiaifhed 5 and hofpitality is 

ftill 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 403 

ftill cultivated at Dorton with as much attention 
as was beftowed on it, by our anceftors. 

In a gallery about a hundred and twenty feet 
long, the windows of which command a fine 
view of wood and water, we were fhewn a col- 
lection of family portraits, (fome of them by 
Sir Peter Lely and Vandyke?) and the drawing 
room is hung with Indian paper. 

Over the chimney of the breakfaft parlour is 
a pi6ture of Thomas Aubrey •, Efquire, brother to 
the prefent worthy baronet ; and in the library 
a half length of Fiennes Trotman, Efq. formerly 
an active magiftrate for this county. 

Leaving Dorton Houfe, and winding up the 
hill, we foon arrived at Chilton, another village 
within the circle of Sir John Aubrey's great 
eftates. Here is a large houfe, once inhabited 
by the Crokes, and afterwards by the Carters, 
from whom it defcended to the prefent Lady 
Aubrey, 

The church is very fmall, but fo full of mo- 
numental records that it might juftly deferve the 
motto of Leland) 

" Recondit in antrls 
" Multorumcineres. ,, 

Dds On 



404 A JOURNEY 

On braffes round the verge of a large brows 
ftone, is the following infcription : 

cc %tn IfetS bmitb 3oBn Ctofte tfie ealtier, 
iC %nm$U onne of tge $i$ Clerfcpg of tfie 
" ^ptigpg Cotute of tge Cgaunterp ant* af* 
<6 tettoarW tfie (patfferg of tlje fail) Cfiamtce* 
" rp* ^e Heparteb tfie ij trap of September, 
<c in tge pere of our %mt)t muulito" 

On a brafs at the head : 

" gere fperat 
" atmetio tlatjfn^ Crot&g in 8oc tfcmtfo " 

On another at the feet : 

cc ffim tfment SDomwtmt, Iperatterant ftt SDo* 

<c milium, 
6r atmitot* mftm er prorata? tovfim efi/' 

Contiguous to the fouth fide of the chaneel is 
a chapel, or oratory, of the Crokes. 

The effigies of a warrior and his lady, repofing 
under a magnificent arch, decorated with a pro_ 
fufion of ornaments, and with the figures of 
eleven children in a recefs under the frize> are 
enclofed with gilt palifadoes- 

The 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 405 

The infcription is as follows : 

joannes crocfs 
"eques clarissimvs vna cum vxore 
h Elizabeth a ex illustri vintonorum 
" familia qvi pariter svaue jvgvm christi vna- 
u nimi in uera pietate consensv svstvlervnt, 
" vitam deo consecrarvnt, opera indigentibvs 
« exhibvervnt, exemplvm posteris reliqvervnt 
« in hoc monvmento conditi resvrrectionem 
" jvstorvm expectant. 

" Joannes abdomiuit in domino decimo 

" DIE FEBRVARII ANNO DOMINI 1608 
" ^TATIS SV^S 78. a 
* ELIZABETHA OBDOMIUIT IN DOMINO UIGESIMO 
« QVARTO DIE JFAUIANNO CHRISTI 1611 
" JETATIS SVJE 73." 

c * PREUIVS AD CHRISTVMj PROPERO MEA LUX 

" MEA VITA, 
" CORDA DATE CHRISTO METAM PROPEREMVS 

" AD ISTAM, 
u UERE IGITUR F^LIX ET VITA ET FVNERO CRO- 

" CVS 
« c EST BONA UITA, BONA MORS, BONA GRATA 

« DEO." 

On a brafs at the edge of a white flone, near 
the monument : 

Ddq " HERE 



406 A JOURNEY 

" HERE LYETH BURIED SIR JOHN CrOKE, 
« KNIGHT, AND LADY ELIZABETH, HIS WIFE, 
* c DAUGHTER OF SIR ALEXANDER UnTON, KNT, 
" WHO LYVED MARIED TOGETHER 55 YEARES, 
" 9 MONETHES AND DAYES FOR WHOME THIS 
" TOMBE IS MADE AT THE CHARGE AND DI. 
" RECTION OF THE SAID LADY ELIZABETH:' 

On another brafs : 

cc hic jacet Joannes Crocus miles, et uni- 

*< VS JVSTICIARIORVM DOMINI REGIS AD PLA- 
" CITA CORA^M IPSO REGE TENENDVM ASS-IGNA- 
" TA DVM VIXERIT, QVI OBIIT 23°. DIE JaNV- 
" ARII ANNO DOMINI 1619 ^ETATIS SU^E 66. 

" EPITAPHlV UENERABILIS 

" UIRI JOANNIS CrOCVS 

" ^QUES AURATVS ET 

" VNIVS JVSTICIARIO- 

" RVM DE BANCO RE- 

u G!S AB IPbO DUM 

" IN UIUIS ESSET 

" CONSCRIPTV.** 

6C DISSOLUA L^TUS CHRISTVM . ♦ . '. . ADIRE 
" SALVATOR PROPERA CORPVS ET • . . . CAPE 

" NON 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 40J 

<c NON FVIT H.^C TRISTIS, MEA MORS SED JA- 

" NVA VITJE 
" NON LOCUS EST LACHRIMIS NON DOLOR VL- 

" LVS 1BI 
" UITA BEATORVM CVM SANCTIS VND1 QVE SVA- 

" UIS 
" NIL MAGIS HAC DULCE EST NAMQ^J SOPORE 

" JACES 
u CORPUS ADIT TERRAM PARIENTE QVOD PARI-* 

" EBAT 
" ASTRA TENENT ANIMAM, QUAM DEDIT ANTE 

" DEVS 
<C VSQJ DIEM QVO...NRA SALUS DQMINVSQ^; 

" REDE~PTOR 
" ALT! SONANTE TVEA SVRGERE NOS FACIAT 
" ABSTERGENS OCULIS LACHIRMAS ET UINCVLA 

c: SOLUES 
" MORTIS VT ETERNA CORPORA LVOE MICENT 
" H^C MEA SPES REQUIES, HJEC FIRMA FIDVCIA 

" CORDIS 
" UIUERE CVM CHRISTO, QUI MEA SOLA SALVS 3 
cc LONDINI OBI IT, &C." 

On another : 

<c HERE LYETH ANNE CROKE WIFE OF ALEX- 
6C ANDER CROKE ESO^ DAUGHTER AND HEIRESS 



Dd 4 



<€ 



OF 



408 A JOURNEY 

" OF RICHARD BRASEY OF THAME IN THE 

" COUNTY OF OXON GENT. WHO DIED THE 22°, 

C < OF MARCH A. D. l622, AND IN THE 22 15 . 

" YEARE OF HER AGE." 

" GOD'S LOVE AND FAVOUR IS NOT KNOWN AL- 

" WAIES, 
" BY EARTHLY COMFORTS OR BY LENGTH OF 

" DAYES 
" FOR OFTEN TYMES WE SEE WHOME HE LOVES. 

" BEST 
" HE SOONEST TAKES UNTO HIS PLACE OF REST. 
" LONG LIFE ON EARTH, DOTH BUT PROLONG 

" OUR PAINE 
" IN HAPP1E DEATH THERE IS THE GREATEST 

" GAIN*." 

This feeros to have been a common epitaph; 
about that period, for it again occurs in the 
church of St. Nicholas at Colchefter. 

On another brafs : 

" AVE VIATOR 
" STAY HERE THOU GENTLE PASSENGER 
u AND VIEW THIS YOUNG MAN'S CHARACTER. 
" HEREXYES THE BODYE OF A SONNE 
" NEXT TO HIS SIRE, THAT TO GOD IS GONE 

l S " THE 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 409 

I* THE NEXT STEP FORWARD GRANDSIRE HOLDS, 
*' AND GREAT GRANDSIRE THIRD PLACE EN- 

" FOLDES 
* c THEIR VIRTUES SPEAKE THEIR PRAYSES BEST 
^ AND HERE THEIR BODYES QUIET REST, 
" VALE LECTOR." 



(C 



READER NOW PASSE, AND CREDIT THIS, 



" WHO LIVETH WELL, SHALL GO TO BLISSE 

* 6 AND WHO SO RUNNES A HOLY COURSE 

" AS THESE HAVE DONE WHOME I REHEARSE 

" WHEN AS HEE VIEWS THIS CHARACTER 

^ WILL WISH HIMSELF INHERITOR 

" UNTO SUCH WORTHYES MEN THAT WERE 

* c RENOWNED WHILST THEY LIVED HERE, 

u HIC JACET EDWARDUS CROKE QUI OBIIT 
* c QUARTO DIE FEBRUARII 1626." 

Some difputes, have been entered into by dif- 
ferent antiquaries refpecling the origin of fuch 
expreflions as " fiHe viator," &c. which are of- 
ten to be met with on ancient monuments ; and 
Doctor Plott fuppofes that this mode of addrefs 
has been derived from the Romans, who fome- 
times threw up heaps of earth, or barrows, over 
the remains of their deceafed generals near the 

courfe 



' 4I€> A JOURNEY 

courfe of the public military ways, to remind 
pafTengers, fays he, very gravely, that " as thefe 
" buried were fometime mortal men, fo they 
ffi themfelves are no better now." 

The following infcription is below the figure 
of a lady kneeling, in a fmall monument againfi 
the wall : 

".HERE LYETH ELIZABETH TYRELL LATE 

" WIFE OF SIR JOHN TYRELL OF HERON KNT. 

" AND DAUGHTER OF SIR JOHN CROKE OF CHIL- 

" TON KNIGHT, WHO HAD ONE DAUGHTER 

" NAMED DOROTHY, WHO DIED IN HER INFA&- 

" CLE, AND THE SAID ELIZABETH DYED THE 

" l6ni OF FEBRUARY, ANNO DOMINI i^I 

" BEING THE 57TH YEAR OF HER AGE." 

The following infcriptions copied from two 

elegant white marble monuments, in the fouth 

and north fides of the chancel of Grendm Tin- 

derwood, having been omitted in their proper 

place, are here introduced, becaufe they relate 

to a defcendant of the above mentioned Sir JcJm 

Tyrrell. 

" Sacred 

<c to the Memory of 
« The R r Hon ble Cbriftobella 
" Vifcountefs Say and Sek, 

« Who 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 41 1 

~ <( Who departed this Life the 23rd of July 
<4 1789, Aged 94 Years. 

" She was Daughter of Sir Thomas Tyrrel 

%t of Cajllethorpe in the County of Bucks, Baronet, 

" was firft married to John Knap 

i( of Cumner in the County of Berks, Efq. 

" next to John Bigot of Dodderfiall in the County 

« of Bucks, Efq. and laftly to the R f Hon ble Richard 

" Vifcount Say and Sele, whom (he furvived. 

" In her Youth the Beauty and elegance of her Perfon 

" Were the Admiration of all who beheld her : 

" For her Chearfulnefs and pleafant Manner, 

<€ She was beloved by all her Friends and Neighbours. 

" Her charitable Institutions are the ftrongeft 

*' and mod confpicuous Proofs of her Munificence ; 

" And her Juftice was fo correct 

*< That when fhe paid the lad debt of Nature 

M She had no other Debt to pay. 

" This Monument, and that oppofitc 
" To the Memory of her refpec"ted Lord 
f( were erected in purfuance 
" of her Ladyftiip's Will." 

" In Memoriam 

" Richardi Fiennes, 

" Vice-Comitis Say et Sele, 

M Qui exivit hac Vita Vicefimo Nono 

" Die 



412 A JOURNEY 

" Die JuB Anno Domini 1781 
" JEt: 64. 

** Charam Sponfam Duxerat Chrijiobelhm 

* c Filiam Thomce Tyrrel e Comitatu Bucks 

€C Ordinis Baronetti Reliquam 'Johannis, 

" Pigott de Dodder/hall in Comitatu 

" Eodem Armigeri. 

* c Pfalm 42. Quemadmodum Cervus 

" Anhelat ad Fontes Aquarum 

" Sic Anima mea : 

" Candide Lector, 

*« Vive Deo, Sic tibi Vives. 5 * 

On a black marble in the floor : 
«M S. 

*< VIRTUTI C^LO FELICITER RECEPT^S 

" JANJE 

€i MOSIS TRYON DE HARRINGWORTH 

* c IN AGRO NORTHAMPT : ARMIG t 

" FILL® 

« c JOANNIS CROKE DE CHILTON 

€C IN AGRO BUCKINGHAM : ARMIG S 

" UXORIS 

cc QUAM 

" PARENTIS PRIAM 

" MARITUS 



cc 

cc 
cc 
cc 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 4.1 J 

" MARITUS FIDELEM 
" HABUERE 
€C CONSANGUINEI CARAM 
" OMNES AMABILEM 
HANC 
FAMILIES DECUS 
CONJUGIS DELICIAS 
AMICORUM DESIDERIUM 
* c IN IPSO FLORE FOECUNDITAS 
* 6 ABSTULIT IX MAII V TO 
" A PUERPERIO DIE 



" MBCXXXVJ 



" FILIOLA UNICO TOT LACHRIMAM SOLATIQ 
" SUBSTITE." 

On another black marble, 
"M.S. 

" CINERES JOANNIS CROCUS DE CHILTONf 
" EJUS NOMINIS QUARTI IN AGRO BUCKING- 
" HAMI^E MILITIS AURATI HIC IN URNA SUNT 
* ; REPOSITI QUI TUB^S NOVISSIM^ AD SPEM 
" ANHELANT. 

!NUMINIS DEVOTUS 
LITERIS ERUDITUS 
FIDE SPECTATUS 






PROBITE INSiGNIS 



cc IDEM 



414 A JOURNEY 



" IDEM < 



PARENTJBUS 5ACER 
CONJCJG. MARITUS REDAMATUff 
LIBERIS PATER OPTIMUS 
1.AMICIS PRESIDIUM, 
" QUI PATRIAE £T PRINCIPI NATUS ET LIBA- 
" TUS H!NC PROPERE AT FELICITER FATO SUC- 
<c CUBUIT OBIIT DECIMO DIE APRIL: ANNO DO- 
<c MINI 1640 iETATIS SVM 54. 

" RELICiTS TRIBUS FILIUS ET UNICA FILIA 
<c QUOS SUSCEPIT EX RACHELE DULCI CONJUGE 
€c FILIA ET HEREDE GULIELMI WEBB DE MOT- 
" COMBE IN AGRO DORCESTRIiE- MILITIS AU- 
w RATI. 

On another, 

" HERE LIETH THE BODY OF SARAH CROKE 
" SECOND WIFE OF ALEXANDER CROKE OF 
" STUDLEY IN THE COUNTY OF OXFORD 
f ESQUIRE, AND DAUGHTER OF RICHARD BEKE 
" OF HADDENHAM IN THE COUNTY OF BUCKS 
" ESQUIRE. SHEE DIED IN THE 67™ YEAR OF 
" HER AGE, AND IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORD 
" 1667. ^ 

cc HERE LYETH THE BODY OF ALEXANDER 
ic CROKE, ESO^. SOMETIME OF CHILTON, AND 
<c AFTERWARDS OF STUDLEY IN THE COUNTY 
<c OF OXFOPJO, WHERE HE DIED IN THE 78™ 

<f YEARE 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 415 

* € YEARE OF HIS AGE, AND IN THE YEARE OF 

" OUR LORD 1673, BEING SON OF WILLIAM 

9< CROKfi ESOo AND GRANDSON OF SIR JOHN 

cc CROKE, BOTH OF CHILTON. " 

On another marble, 

H 

" WILLIAM CROKE ESQ^ 
c< LATE OF CHILTON IN THE COUNTY OF BUCKS, 
<f SON OF ALEXANDER CROKE ESQ^ BY HIS SE- 
" COND WIFE, WHO DIED OCTOBER THE 6~ TS 
u 1702, IN THE 77 th YEAR OF HIS AGE. HE 
c * MARRIED SUSAN THE DAUGHTER OF EDWARD 
a fetTIPLACE ESQUIRE OF SWIMBROOK IN THE 
ci COUNTY OF OXON. BY WHOM HE HAD SIX SONS 
" AND FIVE DAUGHTERS." 

On another, 

" HERE LYETH THE BODY OF 

" SUSANNA CROKE, 

<fi WIFE OF WILLIAM CROKE ESQ^ &C, &C. 

TC SHE DIED THE I 7™ OF MAY IN THE 86™ YEAR 

Ci OF HER AGE, AND IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORS 

" 1712." 
On another, 

" HERE LIETH THE BODY OF SARAH CROKE 
u ELDEST DAUGHTER OF WILLIAM CROKE ESQ. 
4C OF CHILTON, WHO DIED APRIL 6 th J 726, IN 
" THE 74 th YEAR OF HER AGE." 

On 



41 6 A JOURNEY 

On another, near the altar, 

" HERE LYETH THE BODY OF ALEXANDER 
(C CROKE RECTOR OF HARTWELL IN THE COUN- 
« Ty 0F BUCKS, SECOND SON OF WILLIAM CROKE 
<c ESQ_. OF CHILTON. HE MARRIED JANE THE 
" THIRD DAUGHTER OF ANTONY EYANS 
" ESQUIRE OF BAGSHOT IN THE COUNTY OF 
" OXFORD, BY WHOM HE HAD ISSUE TWO SONS 
" AND THREE DAUGHTERS. HE DIED NOVEM- 
" BER THE XXVII, 1726, IN THE 69™ YEAR 
<c OF HIS AGE." 

On another, 

" Here refteth the body of Sarah, the eldefl 

cc Daughter of Alexander Croke Clerk, late Reo 

" tor of Hartwell in this County. Shee died 

< c September 25 th 1728, in the 25 th year of her age. 

" Mater mcerens pofuit." 

On a fmall brown ftone, placed in an obfcure 
corner of the chapel, 

" Here 

€c lyeth the body of 

« Sir Dodfworth Croke 

" Knight and Baronet 

6C who died January the 

" 16 th , 1728 

" aged 84 years." 

It 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 417 

It is related of this unfortunate gentleman, 
that he was reduced to fuch neceflitous circum- 
ftances, as to have been fupported in his old 
age, by the parifh in which he is buried ; and 
where his anceftors had made fo great a figure. 

The relation of a very curious and affe&ing 
trial, in which this perfon, with his father, Sir 
John Croke, one Larimer, and others, were con- 
cerned, has been publifhed, and is ftili extant. 
It was written by a clergyman, of the name of 
Hawkins, to inform poflerity of the cruel injuf- 
tice which he fuftained from thefe confpirators, 
having fuborned witneiTes to prove him guilty of 
felony, for which he was tried at Aylejbury, on 
the 10th day of March, 166 8, before the immor- 
tal Sir Matthew Hale, Lord Chief Baron of his 
Majefty's Court of Exchequer, and Hugh Wind* 
ham, Serjeant at Law, when this fhocking in- 
(lance of turpitude was brought to light ; Mr. 
Hawkins acquitted, and Sir John Croke ftruck 
out of the Commiffion of the Peace. 

The annals of the world have fcarcely pro- 
duced a more unprovoked, or more rancorous 
combination of wicked men, to injure an honed 
and blamelefs individual ; for honeft and blame- 
E e lef* 



4lS A JOURNEY 

lefs appears to have been the conduct of this 
worthy clergyman : but the inconveniences and 
dangers to which we are expofed in the great 
journey of life, do not altogether depend on 
our own conduct. 

There are evils which no human forefight can 
avert, and from which human wifdom is infuffi- 
cient to protect us* The poffeilion of fplen- 
did talents marks a man as the butt for envy ; 
and Virtue itfelfj with all the train of liberal and 
generous fentiments which attend it, excites the 
malevolence of the bafe and the fordid. The 
opennefs of candour does but too often expofe a 
man to the fting of ingratitude ; and the fpon- 
taneous gifts of Nature, like the perfume of the 
violet, but tempt the ruffian hand of malignity : 
they expand their bloom, only to attract the 
deflroyer ; and it has been well obferved by a 
celebrated writer, that " whoever happens to 
6i unite in his character thofe qualities which are 
c< apt to excite envy, will neceffarily have many 
€i enemies. A man of wit is detefted by the 
cc dull and the ignorant ; and a graceful and 
Ci impreffive elocution, and talents for managing 
44 public affairs, naturally make a man envied by 

" all 



ifcTO SOUTH WALES, 419 

" all who afpire to be the leaders of patties, or 
5< the heads of faction, or pre-eminent above the 
" reft of the world." 

At the weft end of the church is a large and 
elegant monument of variegated marble, divided 
into three compartments, by pillars of the Com- 
pofite order. 

u Under this Monument 

" interred in the Vault 

c * lye the remains of 

« RICHARD CARTER* Esq^ 

" Patron of the Church, 

* c and Lord of the Manor of Chilton % 

" Native of the City of Oxford 

" and early in his youth 
cc a member of Baliol College 

<c in that Univerfity ; 

* 6 from whence he removed to 

" the Inner Temple London. 

cc In the reign of Queen Anne 

f * he was put into the commiffion 

<c of the Peace 

" for the County of Oxford. 

" In the year 17 15 under 

<c the appointment of Francis 

" Earl of Godolphin 

« Lord Lieutenant and Cuftos Rotulorunx 

E e 2 « he 



4^0 A JOURNEY 

" he was made 

cc a Deputy Lieutenant 

cc of that County. 

-" In 1719-20 he was appointed 

u Junior Judge for the Counties of 

<c Anglefea> Carnarvon, and Merioneth 

" in North Wales : 

u and the year following 

a was advanced to the dignity of 

" Chief Juftice of the grand feffions 

" for the Counties of 
€€ Glamorgan, Brecon, and Radnor 

" in South Wales : 

u in which he continued to the time 

" of his death ; 

u maintaining always the true character 

« of 

« c a juft Magiftrate 

" and 
" an upright Judge. 

I s He departed this life the &* of 

** January A. D. 1755 

f Aged 83." 

<c In the Vault 

" underneath 

" lie the remains of 

« GEORCM 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 42 1 

" GEORGE RICHARD CARTER, Esq. 

f c eldeft Son of richard carter, esq. 

" He died January 25 th 1771 

" in the 52* year of his age : 

<c leaving out of fix children 

" by julia his Wife 

cc only two furviving Daughters 

« MARTHA CATHARINE 

" and 

« ^IW FRANCES. 

" A found underflanding, a benevolent dif- 
cc pofition, and a peculiar good humour, ren- 
<c dered his character as truly amiable, as his 
" integrity did refpe&able." 

€C INTERRED IN THE VAULT 

" BENEATH 

c< LIE THE REMAINS OF 

« JULIA 

" THE WIFE OF 

« GEORGE RICHARD CARTER, Esq_. 

cc TOGETHER WITH FOUR CHILDREN. 

" SHE DEPARTED THIS LIFE THE 

u 4™ OF DECEMB R . I768 IN THE 44 th 

" YEAR OF HER AGE. 

E e 3 « She 



422 A JOURNEY 

* l She was a chearful and fincere Friend, a 
** charitable benefaclrefs to the poor, an affec^ 
< c tionate wife, and a tender mother*" 

At the eaft end of the church is a flight of 
fteps leading to a ftone pulpit in the wall, now 

difufed. i 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 423 



CHAP. XXXVI. 

Long Crendon.—Nutleigh Abbey, — Eythrop. —Aylejbury, 

One mile diflant from Chilton is Long Crendon, 
a very populous village, in which more than a 
thoufand perfons are faid to be employed in the 
manufactory of needles. The buildings are, how- 
ever, extremely irregular, and the ftreets re- 
markably dirty. 

The church is large and lofty, with a tower 
in the middle, containing a ring of eight mufi- 
cal bells. At the north end of the tranfept is a 
beautiful window, with a rofe, in ftone work. 

No account has been preferved of the founda- 
tion of this edifice ; but from its appearance, and 
flyle of architecture, I conjecture that it was 
erected in the early Norman reigns, and probably 
by fome of the family of Bolebee, who inhabited 
a caftle in this vicinity, now totally deflroyed. 
One of the fame name, Hugh de Bolebec^ was the 
founder of a caftle at White fturchy in this coun- 
ty 5 and a great benefactor to the Abbey of Nut* 
E e 4 high 



424 A JOURNEY 

high, whofe ruins are at no great diftance from 
Crendon. 

This religious houfe was founded in the reign 
of Henry the fecond, for regular canons, of the 
order of St, Auguftine ; but, like fimilar build- 
ings, has yielded to the mouldering hand of 
time ; and now exhibits a melancholy heap of 
rubbifh and defolation. ** 

.4 

A few broken arches are left {landing in a 
meadow, and part of the old walls have been in- 
corporated with thofe-of a farm-houfe : — thefe, 
with the ufual legend of fubterraneous paffages, 
never explored, the haunts of fuperftition, are 
all the traces of Nutleigh Abbey. This retire- 
ment is beautifully fequeftered $ fo that it might 
have been juftly faid, 

" Safe from pangs the worldling knows* 
*' Here, fecure in calm repofe, 
** Far from life's perplexing maze, 
*' The pious Fathers pafs their days." 

The filver bell, which ufed to tinkle in the 
ears of the religious, and was wont to fummon 
the drowfy monk from his flumbers to devotion, 
is exchanged for the bleating of the flocks, or 
the lowing of the oxen; and the fpontaneous 
adoration of the young ravens, from their " airy 

city 



« „:♦„ » 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 425 

* city," has fucceeded to the pomp of prayer, 
and the oftentatious difplay of monadic piety. 

The church of Crendon contains fome ancient 
monumental infcriptions ; but only one of much 
confequence. 

It is on a large alabafter monument, very gau- 
dily painted, enclofed with gilt rails, and kept 
with great neatnefs and care ; there having been 
an eftate of about twenty pounds per annum left 
for the reparation of it. 

The infcription is in gold capitals, on a highly- 
polifhed tablet of black marble, beneath a re- 
cefs ; in which, under a glittering arch, are the 
cumbent figures of a knight and his lady, re- 
pofing on fatin cufhions : and on either fide, a 
little boy, one holding an hour-glafs, the other 
blowing bubbles. 

* c HERE LYETH BURIED SIR JOHN DORMER OF 
c< DORTON KNIGHT, ONE OF THE LORDES OF 
fC THIS MANOR OF CRENDON, AND DAME JANE 
cc HIS WIFE ONE OF THE DAUGHTERS OF JHON 
<< GYFFARD OF CHILLINGTON IN THE COUNTY 
,c OF STAFFORD ESQUIRE, WHICH SIR JHON HAD 
" YSSUE BY THE SAID JANE, FOWER SONNES RO- 
" ££RT, JHON ? GYFFARD AND WILLIAM, AND 
*' TWO DAUGHTERS ELIZABETH AND DOROTHYE 
fc (BESIDES THREE SONNES AND FOWER DAUGH- 
8 - Cl TERS 



426 A JOURNEY 

u TERS WHICH DYED IN THEYR INFANCYE) 
u ELIZABETH MARRIED JHON DYNHAM OF B0R- 
< c STAL ESQUIRE. THE SAID JANE DYED THE 9 
u DAYE OF SEPTEMBER 1605, AND THE SAID 
* c SIR JHON THE" 

The monument appears to have been ere&ed 
in the life-time of Sir John Dormer / but it is 
rather furprifing, that the blank at the end has 
not been rilled up ; as the parilh regifter informs 
vs, that he was buried here on the nth of 
$$arch 1626. 

From Long Crendon we proceeded towards-^y/^ 
hurji firft pafling Winchmdon^ the dilapidated feat 
of the Duke of Warton. The long avenues of lime 
trees, which re£tilinearly interfecl the paftures, ' 
and a terrace walk, are almofl the only marks of 
its former grandeur. The eflate is now in the 
- poffemon of his Grace of Marlborough. 

'turned to the right, and paifed an artificial 
ruin, backed by a plantation of firs, which 
brought us within view of Eythrop* the feat of 
the Earl of Chefterfeld, (landing at the boU 
torn of a valley, enclofed by gentle eminences, 
covered with clumps of trees. 

A large piece of water occupies the flat, clofe 
to the houfe ; and, in wet feafons, is apt to in- 
undate the lower parts of the building. 

• Tht 



INTO SOUTH WALES, 427 

The architecture of the houfe is neither 
ftriking, nor does it pleafe the eye : it is large, 
cumbrous, and low, with an appendage of of* 
fices exceflively oppreffive and difagreeable. 

This was the refidence of the late Sir William 
Stanhope, K. B, from whom might have bQen ex^ 
pe&ed fome traces of his acknowledged tafte, at 
Eythrop. 

At the entrance of the houfe is a large armoury; 
but the rooms are, in general, gloomy and dif- 
nial : nor is the fcenery or arrangement of the 
gardens at all fuperior. 

Riding up the hill towards the fouth, we foon 
arrived at a whimfical turret, which was erecled 
as a profpecl houfe, by Sir John Yanhattem, Knt, 
the proprietor of Dint on Hall, an old houfe, about 
half a mile diftant from it. 

The public is indebted to Sir John Vanhattem 
for an illuftration of the ancient hiftory of BritiJJi 
Barrows, in the " Nenia Britannica" to which he 
contributed many correct obfervations on fever ai 
fepulchral tumuli, which were opened in this 
neighbourhood, under his direftion. 

Some relics are preferved in the manfion houfe, 
but the time would not permit us to gratify our 
curiofity, by yifiting this collection. 

The 



4^8 A JOURNEY 

The roads in this part of Buckingham/hire are 
fo very deep, and the foil is fo ftiff a clay, that 
travellers are feldom found with fufficient perfe- 
verance to accomplifh the ride juft defcribed. 

Leaving Hariwell Houfe, the feat of Sir Wil- 
liam Lee, Bart, its rich plantations, and beauti- 
ful church on the left, we arrived at Aylejbury, 
which, though not nominally, is really the coun- 
ty town. Here the Lent Aflizes, the Elections, 
and other public meetings are held ; and there is 
fomething like the fhadow of a corporation, but 
the names of Mayor, Aldermen, &c. are not af- 
fumed. 

The town is populous, but very indifferently 
built -, and the market houfe, which (lands in a 
large fquare, is an irregular and mean edifice. 

The County Hall is a brick building, with an 
extenfive front, guarded by pallifadoes ; and the 
courts for the administration of juftice, and the 
tranfadion of public bufmefs, are handfome and 
commodious. 

In old time, the town enjoyed fome .privileges, 
on condition of fupplying the King with herbs 
for his chamber, ftraw for his bed, and green 
geefe in fummer, or eels in winter, for his Ma- 
jeily's fuftenance: and this as often as three 

times 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 429 

times every year, if the King mould chance to 
come thither. 

I do not believe that there are more geefe at 
Aylejbury, than in many other towns j but the 
number of ducks and fowls reared here* and 
in the neighbourhood, is aftonifhing. 

Aylejbury is of Saxon original, and the church 
bears evident marks of very high antiquity. Its ex- 
ternal appearance is difgraced by a fhort leaden 
fpire, under whofe weight the building feems to 
be almofl crufhed : but the church- yard is agree- 
ably planted with lime trees. 

There are two fchools, one for Latin, the 
other for Engli/h, eftablifhed here on charitable 
foundations : both of them open into the church- 
yard, and the former is contiguous to the fouth 
fide of the chancel. 

It was once kept by the learned Mr. Pugb, 
to whom fucceeded a mod worthy and amiable 
teacher, the Rev. William Stockins, of whom I 
delight to fay in the words of an elegant orator, 
" Magiftrum ali quando meum, quern adeo ut 

parentem fum veneratus 5 cui quidem plus uni 
w quam ceteris omnibus me debere, ni profiterer 
" palam effem ingratiflimus." 

The 



<c 



430 A J0URNE1? 

The church is fpacious, but gloomy, and the 
organ is both too large and too loud for the 
building. 

The Packington family fhares in the honours of 
the manor of Aylejbury, and there is a very much 
elevated and diftinguiflied gallery, nearly oppo- 
fite the pulpitj for their ufe, whicl\has not unaptly 
been called a bird-cage: but the irregula- 
rity of the pews and galleries in general, is a 
great difgrace to the church* 

An antique fiatue, dug out of the foundations 
of a religious houfe, called " the Friary," near 
the town, is now lying in the north end of the 
tranfept. It is, perhaps, the figure of a Norman 
knight ; but much of the armour is worn quite 
fmooth : and fome have fuppofed it to be of flill 
higher antiquity. 

Near the communion table are fmall tablets in 
memory of Sir Francis Barnard, Bart, and his 
lady, who refided near the church, at a houfe 
fmce occupied by the late celebrated John 
Wilkes, Efq. 

Near the principal entrance, which is at the 
end of the fouth tranfept, is a neat monument in; 
remembrance of Hugh Barker Bell, Efq. and Ann? 

his 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 43 t 

his wife, whofe defcendant the writer of thefe 
pages is forry to have feen wandering about this 
place; in a melancholy (late of mental derangement. 
There are fever al monumental records of the Dag- 
nails, a reputable family, which long flourifhed 
here, but is now extinct. In the north tranfept, on 
an old painted monument, with the date 1584, 
are the following lines : 

** If pafiing by this place, thou doe defire 
** To know what corpfe here fhry d in marble lie ; 
" The fome of that which now thou doll require 
" This fcleder verfe mall fone to the defcrie. 
'* Entombed here doth reft a worthie dame 
*' Extract and born of noble houfe and bloud 
" Her fire Lord Paget hight of worthie fame 
c< Whofe virtues cannot finke in Lethe flood. 
" Two bretheren had me, bard's of this realme 
" A Knight her feere, Sir Harry Lee he hight 
" To whom me bare three impes which had to name 
'* John, Henry, Mary, flayn by fortune's fpight 
«« Fir ft two heig yong which caus'd their parents moc 
" The third in jflowei a"d prime of all her years 
f All three do reft within this marble ftone 
e< By which the fickl'efs of worldly joyes appears. 
46 Good friend, flick not to ftrew with crimfon flowers 
44 This marble ftone wherein her cinders reft 
*« For fure her ghoft lives with the heavly powers 
." And guerdon hathe of virtuous life pofFeft." 

Againft the wall of the church- yard is a ftone, 

in memory of a gardener to the claffical Mr. 

Wilkes, with this line from Virgil; 

« Ilium 



43^ A JOURNEY 

" Ilium etiam lauri j ilium etiam flevere myricae.^ 

The fite of the ancient caftle is now a garden, 
belonging to the vicarage houfe ; but the know- 
ledge of the time of its decay is loft, and even 
the name of the flreet which leads to it, has long 
been changed from Caftle flreet, to Cat flreet. 

On the whole, Aykjbury is but a poor town j 
and if its market were not well attended by the 
opulent farmers and graziers of the neighbour- 
hood, the little confequence which it has at pre- 
fent, would foon be totally loft. 

The fine vale which reaches from the fkirts of 
this town almofl to Bicefier 9 in Oxford/hire, 
twenty miles weflward, derives its name from 
hence, and is remarkable for containing, per- 
haps, the richeft paflurage in England : which 
Drayton has mentioned : 

" Aykjhury *s a vale that walloweth in her wealth, 
,-" And (by her wholefome air continually in health) 
4 * Is lufty, firm, and fat; and holds her youthful ftrength, 
" Befides her fruitful earth. 

. I . . . . te her foil throughout fo fure, 
" For goodnefs of her glebe, and for her pafture pure; 
" That as her grain and grafs, fo me her iheep doth breed, 
<< For burden, and for bone, all others that exceed." 

In 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 433 

In this valley, about four miles from Aylef* 
bury, is a folitary place of worfhip, called £>ua- 
rendon Chapel, fituated in a flat meadow, which 
is frequently overflowed in rainy feafons, by the 
neighbouring brooks. Here are fome old mo- 
numents of the Leighsy Earls of Litchfield, to 
which family it gives the title of vifcount. 



F f 



434 ^ JOURNEY 



CHAP. XXXVII. 

JJon Clinton. -^Enter Hertford/hire*— Tring.— Peter the Wild 
Boy — North Church.— Berkhamjlead.—The Cajile. 

From Aylejbary we directed our courfe towards 
Hertford/hire. 

Patted the village of Afton Clinton, full of 
neat villas ; crofted a canal, afcended a very fteep 
hill, and enjoyed an expanfive retrofpecl of the 
vale of Aylejbury, rich in corn, cattle, and paf- 
turage, with feveral towns and villages at the 
foot of that great range of hills called the Chit- 
terns : which was formerly part of the forefi: 
defer ibed by Leland, as extending from Portus 
Limenus, in Kent, to the diftance of an hundred 
and twenty miles weflward. 

The lofty fpire of Leighton church, in Bedford*- 
Jhire appears as if at no great diftance, and the 
towns of Wing and Ivingho are feen in the fame 
direction. Quaint on church, with the fine fcreen 
of trees on Grange Hill behind it, clofe the prof- 
peel on the north-weft, while the eye lofes itfelf 

towards 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 435 

towards the left, in the mild azure of the hori- 
zon. 

We foon perceived a remarkable difference in 
the appearance of the country, as well as in the 
ftate of the roads, for we had exchanged the 
deep clay and miry tracks and verdure of Buck- 
inghamjhire, for fine hard chalky roads, and 
fields covered with loofe flints, and a fickly her- 
bage. 

Weak verdure is however not at all the cha- 
radteriftic of Hertford/hire : — it is in general fer- 
tile and productive, but the abundance of flint 
ftones fcattered every where over the furface of 
the land, and fpontaneoufly emerging from the 
foil, makes us furprized that corn and grafs can 
find room to grow. 

General Lake has a large modern built brick 
houfe, near Tring ; and beyond the town, 
adorned with rich and luxuriant woods of beech 
and oak, is Tring Park, an elegant feat of Drum* 
mond Smith, Efq. 

** Here nature's charms the raviuVd eye invite, 

" Here grandeur, ftrength> and elegance unite ; 

«' Tafle guides the rule, while judgment marks the lines, 

« And all the Mailer in the ftrudture mines." 

F f 2 We 



43^ A JOURNEY 

We defcended into the little market town of 
Tring, through a ftreet juft wide enough to ad- 
mit one carriage to pafs. The place is mean 
and ill-built, but its church is large and ancient. 
At the eaftern extremity of the town is an open- 
ing, which prefents a view of the elegant man. 
fion belonging to Tring Park, one of the hand- 
fomefl houfes of its fize in England, and fur- 
rounded by delightful groves of fpreading beech 
trees, 

I am very much inclined to doubt the accuracy 
of Cafar's account of the produces of our coun- 
try, at the time of its invafion by J:he Romans. 
He denies to us even the beech tree, but its won- 
derful beauty throughout the Chiltern country 
affords fome ground for prefuming that it is here 
in its native foil. This point it is, however, now 
too late even to attempt to decide. 

From Tring we had an agreeable ride on a 
good road to North church, a. village contiguous 
to Berkhamjiead, and like it full of genteel houfes # 

In the church yard, the fpot is afcertained by 
a fmall brown ftone, where lies buried " Peter 
" the wild boy," a favage caught in the woods 
of Germany (and prefented to King George the 
fecond) who feemed to pofiefs more of the anU 

malium 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 437 

malhini rationale than can be attributed to the 
brute. Hs became docile and conformed to the 
will of his keepers with readinefs and punctuality; 
but it does not appear that he was capable of ex- 
erting that diftmguifhing charaQeridic called 
judgment, and therefore the mere poiTeflion of 
the faculties of memory and imagination fcarcely 
entitled him to be claffed with the human fpecies. 
If we contemplated this individual as fome- 
thing above the brute creation, as the apparently 
connecting link of that great chain which binds 
all nature together in its folds, we fhall feel a 
degree of wonder and admiration at the nice 
gradations by which the different orders of beings 
are advanced above one another in mental powers, 
and corporeal excellence. If we look on him as 
the lowed of the human race, we fhall fuperadd 
to that reverential awe which the extraordinary 
difplay of the providence of God naturally in- 
fpires, — an humiliating fenfe of the imbecility of 
mortals : it will teach us rightly to appreciate 
thofe faculties of the mind by which the higher 
orders of creatures are diftinguifhed ; and lead 
us to a ufeful and prudent exercife of thofe qua- 
lities and functions which are fparingly diftributed 
among the fons of men. 

Ff 3 If 



43 8 A JOURNEY 

If the appearance of the maniac be of all dif- 
treffing fcenes the mod humiliating, next to it 
mufl be the fight of thofe endowed with very 
flight powers of reafon and judgment. 

Idiotifm furely can not be feen by the proudefl 
among us without inward mortification at the 
infignificance of the human character ; without 
urging a comparifon between its weaknefs, and 
the power which called it into life. 

The one debafing it'felf to the earth, from 
whence it was animated, futile, dependant, 
wretched ; — the flower of a day, the fport of 
fortune, the fpark of accident ! the other, great 
without limits, good without meafure, omnipo- 
tent, and eternal ! 

Man, coming up like a flower ; and like a 
flower cut down ! Man! whofe " years confume 
u in vanity, and his days in trouble ! " Man • 
who came naked out of his Creator's hand, and 
is doomed to return to his kindred afhes ! 
God ! whofe providence guards the immenfity 
of his works, whofe wifdom made heaven and 
earth ! Who, at his word called all nature into 
exiPcence ; and who liveth for ever and ever ! 

Berkhaniftead has the privilege of a weekly 
market but it is fo much negle&ed that a^ ftran- 

g er 



INTO SOTfTH WALES. 439 

ger would be puzzled to know onwhat day it 
is held. 

The fhabby and decayed condition of the mar« 
ket houfe, which is propped up by not a few 
rough polls, is in unifon with the decreafe of 
trade; but the town has in it many genteel houfes, 
and the neighbourhood being pleafant, it is much 
reforred to by perfons of fortune and fafhion, fo 
that a lively air of gaiety prevails here. 

Splendid afTemblies have been much encou- 
raged at this place, which, if I miftake not, have 
forhetimes been honoured with the prefence of 
royal vifitors. 

The church is a venerable pile, on the north 
fide of the principal ftreet ; and contiguous to 
it is a free grammar fchool for 144 boys, built, 
and endowed with very ample revenues, by King 
Edward the fixth. 

In the church are feveral neat monuments ; 
and near the pulpit lie two (lone figures of a man 
and woman, faid to have been the founders, but 
whofe names are not preferved. 

The monument of the late John Dorien, Efq. 
a banker in London, who fometimes refided at 
Berkhampjlead, is a piece of elegant fculpture. 

c Beneath 



440 A JOURNEY 

Beneath the figure of Hope, refting on an 
anchor, are the following words, " I fhall go to 
** him, but he fhall not return to me." 

Northward of the town are the remains of a 
caflle, which, together with the Honour, or 
Royalty, are veiled in his Royal Highnefs the 
Prince of Wales, who is Marquis of Berkhampjlead. 

In this caftle died Richard, Earl o^ Cornwall, 
King of the Romans, brother of King Henry the 
thirds about the year 1272: as alfo, at a later 
period, Cicely, Dutchefs of York, mother of 
King Edward the fourth. 

Thomas, fecond Lord Berkley, having joined 
the Earl of Lancajler and his followers, in op- 
pofition to the Spencers, was committed to 
the tower of London, but made his efcape, 
and was fent to Berkhaniftead caftle. The 
Queen foon afterwards returning from France, 
and the King {Edward the fecond) being made 
prifoner* he was placed in the hands of the 
fame Lord Berkley, but the latter being fuf- 
fpected of favouring the caufe of the royal cap- 
tive, or at leaft of being difpofed to treat him 
with more lenity than the " fhe wolf of France' 9 
de fired he mould experience* — the unfortunate 
monarch was committed to the cuftody of John, 
Lord Maltravers, and Sir Thomas Gournay, and, 

in 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 44I 

in a fnort time, mod cruelly murdered in Berkley 
Caflle, Lord Berkley was afterwards indicted as 
acceiTary to the murder, but honourably ac- 
quitted. 

From this place we took a delightful ride to 
AJhridge, an old feat of the Duke of Bridgewater, 
which is fituated in a nook of Buckinghamjhire, 
almoft furrounded by the county of Herts, 

The park is (locked with very beautiful deer : 
there is alfo a breed of flags of a large ilze. 

The neighbouring country is rich, fylvan, and 
verdant ; and it is faid that a new houfe was in- 
tended to have been erected here fome years 
ago > but that the defign was laid afide, or per- 
haps relinquifhed, in confequence,of the progrefs 
of thofe immenfe works in which his grace has 
been fo conflantly and laudable engaged, in 
Lancqfbire: where the application of a. large for- 
tune prudently directed, is perhaps productive 
of more real and extenfive benefit to fociety, 
than has ever been derived from the Tingle ex- 
ertions of any other man in this country. 

Returned to Berkhampftead, well pleafed with 
our excurfion ; and the next day purfued our 
journey towards the metropolis. 



442 A JOURNEY 



CHAP. XXXVIII. 

Two Waters. — King's Langley. — Cajhiolerry . — Stanmcre*— 
Watford* — Road to London. 

Two miles from Berkhampftead, at the junction 
of the rivers Bobourne and Gade (from thence 
called Two Waters), are feveral paper mills, and 
here the road turns off to the left for Kernel Hemp, 
Jled, a neat market town not far diitant, the fpire 
of whofe church appearing to fprout from among 
the cherry orchards, which abound in this neigh- 
bourhood, is a pleafing feature in the landfcape. 

Paffed a little verdant common enlivened by a 
gentle flream, called Boxmoor, near which is a 
neat villa of Mr. Almon. 

Farther on, is Langley Bury, the feat of Sir 
Beaumont Hotham, Knt. &c. &c. a plain well built 
manfion, furrounded by rich and venerable plan- 
tations. 

The village of King's Langley, now only re- 
markable for its model!: neatnefs, and the chear- 
ful pleafant fituation which it enjoys, was once 
honoured with a regal feat, of which fome traces 
were a few years fince vifible. 

This 



INTO SOUTH WALES. 443 

This building is afcribed to King John, who 
is faid to have capricioufly deprived the ladies 
here of their thirds^ at the deceafe of their 
hufbands, in confequence of fome perfonal in- 
dignity which they offered to his Majefty as he 
rode through the town. 

Prince Edmund, fon of King Edward the 
third, was born at this place, on which occafion 
a tournament was celebrated here. 

It being Sunday when we vifited Langley, we 
enjoyed the pleafure of hearing an incomparable 
fermon from Mr. Jefferfon, the curate, a very 
worthy clergyman, and an excellent claffic ; to 
whom, if he had been ftill living, I would have 
paid a deferved compliment. 

Caj%ioberry, the feat of the Earl of EJfex, is 
on the right of the road, and only feparated 
from Grove, the refidence of the Earl of Claren- 
don, by a narrow lane. 

A very neat and comfortable houfe in a little 
park nearly oppofite, was inhabited by Coun- 
tefs Dowager of EJfex ; and indeed the whole 
country is fprinkled with genteel villas and fpien* 
did feats. 

Not far from the borders of the park, which 
belongs to the Marquis of Abercorn, there is an 
extenhve opening towards the north, which in- 
cludes 



444 A JOURNEY, &C* 

eludes the town of St. Albans, and its beautiful 
abbey church. 

Watford is a neat market town, chiefly fup- 
ported by travellers, but contains nothing very 
interefting to the tourift, the philofopher, or 
the antiquary : and from this place to the metro- 
polis the ride would be truly difmal if the opu- 
lence of the country, the excellence of the roads, 
and the number of pafTengers, did not happily 
concur to difiipate the melancholy gloom pro- 
duced by gibbets of robbers who have been 
executed ; and to allay the appreheniions almoft 
naturally fuggefted by the high hedge-rows and 
narrow lanes, of defperadoes and aiTaffins, who 
brave a'fimilar fate. 

Having thus conducted my reader to the me- 
tropolis, from whence we commenced our ex- 
curfion, he will permit me to apologize for the 
deficiencies, the inconveniencies, and the neg- 
le&s, which he has been compelled to encoun- 
ter ; and to allure him, that feeling the neceffity 
of his indulgent candour, I fupplicate it, with 
the greater! earneflnefs and anxiety. 



FINIS; 



Printed by A. Strahan, 
Printers Street. 



